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DOTTIMS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



BY 



BENJAMIN ROBBINS CURTIS, 



LSI® 
EEHiidSEi 1 



or 




//Cpoo.4- 



BOSTON: 
JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 

Late Ticknor & Fields, and Fields, Osgood, & Co. 

1876. 



Copyright, 1876. 
By JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. 






University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co. ; 
Cambridge. 



TO 



AKDKEW FISKE, 

WHO ACCOMPANIED ME IN THE MAJORITY OP THESE WANDERINGS, 

I JUMcate tfjtg Jfourttal, 

AS A TOKEN OP GRATITUDE POR THE CONTINUAL 

PLEASURE HIS COMPANIONSHIP 

AFFORDED ME. 



PBEFACE 



It has been said of one of the greatest minds that 
the world has ever produced, that " he dotted round 
the circle of human knowledge." With all due mod- 
esty for making use of the comparison, I offer to the 
public these "Dottings," made in a journey around the 
world. 

Starting immediately after my graduation at Harvard, 
I set out upon a tour of the world, equipped with a 
large number of desirable letters of introduction. By 
their means I was presented to some of the prominent 
people in the East, and by their kind favor I was 
shown what was deemed by them worthy of notice. 

The result of my observations I now lay before the 
public. In the course of such rapid travel it cannot 
be expected that any deep political or ethnical investi- 
gations have been attempted. I simply offer a pano- 
ramic picture of several of the chief countries of the 
world. 



VI PREFACE. 



I have said but little in regard to my wanderings in 
Europe. So much has been written of Italy and France 
and England, that I have merely noted my arrival in 
the different cities, and the impressions I derived from 
the most important. 

If I can interest any to such a degree that they will 
wish to see for themselves these wonders of the world 
so imperfectly described, I shall feel happy in the 
thought that my past pleasure will be experienced afresh 
by others. 

B. R. c. 
Boston, October, 1876. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I. 

Page 

From Boston to Salt Lake City 1 

Departure. — A Sunday at Niagara Falls. — Detroit. — Chicago. — St. 
Louis. — A Freshet on the Plains. — Denver. — Up the Rocky Moun- 
tains on a Cow- Catcher. — Central City. — Idaho Springs. — Chey- 
enne. — Ogden. — Arrival at Salt Lake City. 

CHAPTER II. 

From Salt Lake City to the Yosemite Valley . . . .19 
Salt Lake City. — An Interview with Brigham Young. — A Bath in the 
Great Salt Lake. — Ogden to Stockton. — Starting for the Yosemite. 
— Four Days on the Koad. 

CHAPTER III. 

From the Yosemite Valley to the Pacific Ocean .... 36 
Excursions in the Yosemite. — Stockton to San Francisco. — • The " Chi- 
nese Quarter." — Embarkation for Japan. 



CHAPTER IV. 

Across the Pacific to Japan 54 

The P. M. S. S. Co.'s Great Republic. — My Fellow-Passengers. — The 
Long Sea -Voyage. —Arrival at Yokohama. 

CHAPTER V. 

From Yokohama to Yedo 68 

Yokohama. — A Japanese Theatre. — Inoshima. — Daibutsu. — Kama- 
kura. — The Railroad to Yedo. 



vin CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VI. 

Yedo 87 

Description of the City, — Shiba. — Atago Yama. — Uyeno. — Asakusa. 

CHAPTER VII. 

Yokohama to Shanghai 101 

Yokohama to Kobe. — Osaka. — The Inland Sea. — Across the Yellow 
Sea to China. — Shanghai. — " Chin-chin-ing the Moon." 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Shanghai to Pekin 115 

Shanghai to Che-foo. — A Storm in the Gulf of Pe-chi-li. — Tien-tsin. — 
Overland to Pekin. — A Chinese Inn. — Arrival at the Capital. 

CHAPTER IX. 
Pekin to the Great Wall 130 

Consultations with the Ministers. — Starting for the Great Wall. — The 
Bell Temple. — Wan-shou-san. — The Ming Tombs. —The Great Wall. 

CHAPTER X. 

Pekin 148 

The City. — The Llama Temples. — The Temple of Heaven. — Curio 
Street. — The Imperial College and Observatory. — The Marble 
Biidge. — The Roman Catholic Cathedrals. 

CHAPTER XI. 

Pekin to Canton 159 

Return to Shanghai. — Amoy. — Canton. — Buddhist Temples and 
other Objects of Interest. 

CHAPTER XII. 

Canton to Batavia 184 

Macao. — Fan-tan Gambling. — Hong Kong. — Singapore. — Crossing 
the Equator. — Arrival at Batavia. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Java to Ceylon . 200 

Batavia. — Buitenzorg. — An Inland Trip. — Embarkation for Ceylon. 
Arrival at Point De Galle. 



CONTENTS. IX 



CHAPTER XIV. 

Ceylon . . • • • • .210 

Point De Galle. — Colombo. — Kandy. — The Royal Apartments on 
the Serapis. — The Preparation of the Coffee- Berry. —The Prince 
of Wales. 

CHAPTER XV. 

Ceylon to Calcutta 222 

IS T egapatam. — Pondicherry. — Madras. — Masulipatam. — Coconada. — 
Vizagapatam. — Bimlipatam. — Gopolpore. — False Point. — Dia- 
mond Harbor. — Arrival at Calcutta. 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Calcutta to Benares 231 

Christmas Eve in Calcutta. — Illumination in Honor of the Prince of 
"Wales. — Benares. — The Ghats and Temples. — Burning the Dead. 

— Sarnath. 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Lucknow, Cawnpore, and Delhi 250 

Lucknow. — The Residency, and the Mutiny Days of 1857. — Curious 
Buildings. — Cawnpore. — Wheeler's Entrenchment and the Slaugh- 
ter Ghat. — Delhi. — The Fort and Palace of the Moguls. — The- 
Jama Musjid. — The Kootub. — A Nautch Dance. — The Story of' 
the Siege. 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Agra and Bombay 283 

The Taj of Agra. — The Pearl Mosque. — The Fort. — The Tomb of 
Akbar the Great. — Bombay. — The Tower of Silence. — The Caves 
of Elephanta. — Embarkation for Egypt. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Up the Red Sea to Catro 292 

Aden. — Heat on the Red Sea. — Suez. — Across the Desert to Cairo. 

— Egyptian Mosques. — Excursion to the Pyramids. — The Dancing 
Dervishes. — Arrival at Alexandria. 

CHAPTER XX. 

Alexandria to Florence 310 

Alexandria. — Pompey's Pillar. — Cleopatra's Needle. — The Catacombs. 

— Across the Mediterranean to Brindisi. — Arrival at Florence. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

Italy to France 315 

Florence. — Naples. — Rome. — Venice. — Milan. — Turin. — Arrival 
at Paris. 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Paris, London, and Boston 323 

Notes on Paris and the French. — Arrival in London. — Embarkation 
at Liverpool. — The Cunard Steamship Russia. — New York to 
Boston. 



DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER I. 

FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. 

Departure. — A Sunday at Niagara Falls. — Detroit. — Chicago. — 
St. Louis. — A Freshet on the Plains. — Denver. — Up the Rocky 
Mountains on a Cow-Catcher. — Central City. — Idaho Springs. — 
Cheyenne. — Ogden. — Arrival at Salt Lake City. 

1875, June 30. — Leaving Boston at 9 p. M. (by the Boston 
and Albany Bailroad), I reach New York City at half past 
five o'clock the next morning. 

July 3. — After spending two days in New York City and 
vicinity, I leave the Grand Central Depot at 10 A. m. (by the 
Hudson Biver Bailroad) for Albany, where I have agreed to 

meet F , my college classmate and travelling companion. 

The weather is fine, but decidedly warm ; but in spite of 
this, the journey along the bank of the Hudson is full of 
interest. The mountains rising from the opposite shore of the 
river, covered with a delicate bluish haze, look picturesque 
and refreshingly cool; while the different steamers passing up 
and down, with here and there a sail-boat for variety, keep 
the eye continually occupied. We reach Albany at two 



DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



o'clock, and I find I have an hour to wait before the " special 
express" on which F ■ is coming will arrive from Bos- 
ton. The time passes quickly by, and promptly at three 

o'clock the "special" appears, with F standing on the 

platform of the front car, waving his hat joyously. Soon after 
this we start for Niagara Falls via Eochester. Of course 
we have the traditional wedding couple on board; and of 
course the gentleman alights at every third station, eager to 
pour the entire contents of the refreshment-table into his 
wife's lap. As evening draws on (of course) the lady, be- 
coming weary, rests her head lovingly and confidingly on her 
husband's shoulder, and, with his arm encircling her, they 
sit absorbed in themselves, forgetful of the outside world; 
while (of course) all the other passengers regard them with 
looks of half-pitying contempt. The train stops at Utica for 
supper, and we are soon again on our way. A grand railroad 
this New York Central, with its four broad tracks, its com- 
fortable cars, its powerful engines, and its numberless trains ! 
We are rushing continually on, through broad cultivated fields 
stretching away into the distance, past populous towns and 
cities, or, now leaving civilization for a time, we plunge into 
a thick wood, or dash round a sharp cutting in the rocks, 
and stop suddenly at some manufacturing village, whose in- 
habitants all turn out to give us a welcome. At 10.30 P. M. 
we reach Eochester, and here we must change cars for Niagara 
Falls. At 2 A. M. we arrive at our destination, and are shown 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. 3 

to very comfortable rooms by the sleepy-looking clerk of the 
International, and, lulled by the ceaseless roar of the Falls, 
I drift into unconsciousness, thinking what a great State New 
York is, in which one can travel by express-train from ten 
o'clock one morning to two o'clock of the following, without 
leaving its limits. 

o 

July 4~ — The ninety-ninth anniversary of our country's in- 
dependence, though failing on a Sunday, is here ushered in 
by ringing of bells and an occasional fire-cracker ; the younger 
portion of the community, however, evidently reserving itself 

for the morrow. After breakfast F and I start on foot 

for the Falls, successfully and completely routing the continu- 
ous attacks of the hackmen and guides by my truthful reply, 
" I have been here before," which stops each one's impor- 
tunities, and apparently affects them as the sign of the cross 
does the Evil One. After wandering through Prospect Park 
we descend by the inclined railroad, and are ferried across 
the river to the Canada side by a remarkably muscular Charon 
of French descent. Two wedded couples accompany us ; and 
when our little boat has reached the middle of the stream, 
the mighty roaring cataract above us, the clouds of rising- 
spray, and the swiftly flowing river give great alarm to the 
ladies, and enable the husbands to exhibit themselves in the 
most heroic aspects. On the Canada side we are surrounded 
by traders of all kinds ; but we have been wisely warned against 
purchasing, as a heavy duty is exacted by the United States 



DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



authorities as soon as the article purchased is carried over 
the border. Indeed, one gentleman got thus into quite a se- 
rious difficulty; for having bought a tablecloth at a Canadian 
store, he was charged a large per cent by the United States 
customs officers ; and, not deeming it worth such an additional 
sum, he was returning with it to the shop where he had pur- 
chased it, when he was halted on the other side by the Cana- 
dian officials, who declared that it was a product of the United 
States, and requested him to deposit the usual duty before 
bringing it into their country. The gentleman, however, suc- 
ceeded in convincing them that he had bought it in Canada, 
and he returned it to its original owner, declaring that he 
wanted to have nothing further to do with the ill-fated article. 
After wandering along the Canadian side, we return by the 
new suspension-bridge, and, after an afternoon passed in quiet, 
seek sleep to prepare us for the journey of the morrow. 

July 5. — We leave Niagara Falls at 1 P. M. by the Michi- 
gan Central and Great Western Bailroad, and, after a some- 
what tedious and rather uninteresting day's journey, we arrive 
in Detroit at 10 p. M., and drive at once to the Eussell 
House for the night. To-day we made our first trial of a 
" hotel-car " : and although the dinner is hot and the food well 
cooked and of good quality, still the dust and cinders pretty 
effectually spoil the repast; for, as the kitchen occupies a 
large share of these hotel-cars, it is almost impossible to keep 
the windows closed. 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. 5 

July 6. — As Detroit is familiar to one of us, and as we 
are obliged to be in San Francisco by August 1 to take the 
steamer for Japan, and as there are, moreover, many new 
places which we wish to visit on the way, we decide to 
make no stop of any length at present, and a very hasty 
survey of Detroit is all that we can allow ourselves. Detroit 
has many fine business blocks, and Woodward Avenue con- 
tains some of the handsomest residences in the West. The 
large lake steamers lying at the docks give to the city an air 
of extended commerce which is very impressive. 

We leave Detroit at 9.30 A. M. by the Michigan Central 
Eailroad, and when we have travelled about two hours the 
aspect of the country through which we are passing has be- 
come thoroughly " Western," On both sides of the railroad 
the fences between the fields are far less numerous than in 
New England, probably indicating that these long stretches 
of rich grain are the property of a single proprietor. The 
towns and villages, too, look fresh and new, and the tall, keen- 
looking men, standing about in top-boots and flannel shirts, 
are strange objects to our Eastern eyes. At Kalamazoo our 
train rushes through a thick cloud of grasshoppers, who flutter 
and spread themselves over everything they meet, making it 
evident what serious damage they are capable of inflicting to 
crops over which they pass. At 7 P. m. we come in sight of 
Lake Michigan, and for nearly an hour our train runs close 
to the water, until, having rounded a curve, we see a great 



6 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

city spread out before us; clouds of smoke are pouring forth 
out of tall chimneys; the spires of churches stand out against 
the sky; our train rattles across several switches, rushes into 
a perfect labyrinth of tracks, gives a long shrill whistle, and 
at last comes to a stand-still; we alight and set foot in Chi- 
cago. 

In 1833 Chicago was the name applied to a few houses 
near Fort Dearborn. In 1840 it had a population of 4,000 ; 
at present it has about 400,000. We enter one of the many 
omnibuses standing near the station, and soon have obtained 
most comfortable quarters at the Palmer House. 

July 7. — After a refreshing sleep and most excellent break- 
fast, we walk out through the principal business street of 
the city. What a rush and whirl and hurry everywhere ! 
Everybody walks rapidly along, rarely looking in each other's 
faces, each mind intent on its own business; each man, ap- 
parently, eager to get to a particular place before his neighbor, 
each fearful lest a moment's delay may upset his plans for- 
ever. This feverish haste is, it seems to me, far more notice- 
able than in New York itself. Some idea of the extent and 
variety of the trade of Chicago may be formed from the fol- 
lowing: "In 1872 about 70,000,000 bushels of grain came to 
market, with 1,000,000,000 feet of timber, 400,000 cattle, 
1,900,000 hogs, and 3,000,000 sheep. Enormous elevators 
shoot the grain into the vessels at the rate of 10,000 tons a 
day; one vessel can be filled in twenty minutes." 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. 7 

In the afternoon we take a carriage and drive about the 
city. The private residences, even on Michigan Avenue, do 
not satisfy my expectations. Many of the houses are built 
of wood, and a large majority of them look hastily constructed. 
The people of Chicago, however, can congratulate themselves 
on their fine " Boulevards," and the sight of them make me 
remember with regret how much Boston is in need of similar 
drives for her citizens. We drive next to the building con- 
taining the complicated and ponderous machinery which draws 
water from a point two miles out in the lake, for the use of 
the city ; and, standing near this mass of iron, it hardly seems 
possible that it owes its very existence and movement to the 
comparatively small objects called men that circulate at its 
feet ! From the neighboring tower a fine bird's-eye view of 
the city can be obtained. 

We leave Chicago at 8 P. M. by the Chicago, Alton, and St. 
Louis Eailroad, and reach St. Louis, our next objective 
point, at nine o'clock the following morning, after travelling 
with fearful rapidity. 

July 8. — After breakfasting at a comfortably late hour at 
the Southern Hotel, we walk out to see the new bridge 
over the Mississippi Eiver, and find it truly a wonder of 
engineering art and mechanical construction. We make a 
hasty survey of some of the principal streets of St. Louis, 
which seems to contain characteristics of both Northern and 
Southern cities; but as the heat is very oppressive, we soon 



8 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

return to the hotel, and endeavor to keep as cool as we pos- 
sibly can, sitting quietly in doors. 

We had intended to travel without change from St. Louis 
to Denver, but, owing to a recent " wash-out " on the North- 
Missouri Eailroad, we find that we shall be obliged to travel 
to Kansas City by the Missouri Pacific Eailroad, and change 
there on to the Kansas Pacific Eailroad, which will carry us 
to Denver. So at 8 p. m. we arrive at the station of the Mis- 
souri Pacific Eailroad, and enter the Pullman car only to find 
that our section (which we have previously engaged) is oppo- 
site a very colony of individuals. A mother with an elderly 
daughter, two small boys, a baby, and a maid, give all the 
rest of the passengers a mathematical as well as practical 
puzzle to decide how they intend to stow themselves for the 
night in places for a third of their number. The enigma is 
soon solved, however, by the mother remarking in a load tone 
of voice that " she hopes some gentleman will give her a 

lower berth or take some of her children ! " Before F or 

myself are called upon to immolate our night's rest on the 
altar of politeness, the conductor enters and informs us that 
our section is the corresponding one in the car ahead; so 
we leave the other gentlemen to attend to the lady's clearly- 
expressed wish, and make our way forward, congratulating 
ourselves that we shall now " have peace " : but it is not to 
be. We find in our section in this car a young mother with 
a little girl and a very young baby, the latter of whom, over- 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. g 

come probably by the excessive beat and want of sleep, is 
crying heartily. This family are merely occupying our sec- 
tion till their own is prepared for the night; and this being 
accomplished,, they retire, and we take possession. The poor 
baby cries all through the night with unfailing regularity, and 
when, at last, morning breaks, I am amazed to see the mother 
offer her children a breakfast of cold chicken, pickles, and 
Washington pie ! 

July 9. — We reach Kansas City at 8.30 A. m., and find the 
train for Denver waiting near by on the Kansas Pacific Rail- 
road. We start at ten o'clock, and soon after are rushing 
over the desolate prairies.* Far as the eye can see, on either 
side of the train stretches one flat, unbroken, barren waste of 
land, with scarcely a living thing to break the intense silence 
and dreadful monotony. Once in about two hours the train 
halts at a " station," — consisting of one dwelling-house, a 
saloon, and a few lazy-looking Indians, — and, after taking 
in a fresh supply of water and coal, we leave all this behind 
us, with no great regret. Wearied with the monotony, I go 
forward on to the engine, and persuade the engineer to let 
me ride with him. From here I can at 'least see all that the 
country has to show. Once, as we dash along, a great eagle 
rises majestically in front of us, hovers a moment near by as if 
filled with a sort of sad wonder at being driven away from his 

* In fact, in all ray after-travel to San Francisco I did not find any more dreary, 
lonely, and uninteresting country than from Kansas City to Denver. 



10 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

solitary haunt, and then floats gracefully off. A little farther 
along we scatter a herd of antelopes, which bound quickly 
aside. Having paused for half an hour at a characteristic 
" station " to discuss some dangerous-looking compounds called 
" dinner," we continue our journey. The afternoon wears 
wearily away ; we stop again for " supper " ; the sun sets in 
a mass of dark clouds, and a storm is evidently upon us. 
Soon the rain begins to patter down on the car-roof, accom- 
panied by thunder, lightning, and hail. Still we rush on. 
Outside the car windows all is thick darkness, and the rain- 
drops striking against the glass can plainly be heard above 

the noise of the train. I look over at F ; he is fast 

asleep, and I strive to follow his example. 

July 10. — We are due in Denver at 6 P. M. ; but at the 
station where we halt for dinner we receive the annoying 
news by telegraph that the thunder-storm of yesterday has 
washed away two bridges between us and Denver, and a long 
delay is inevitable. To add to our misfortunes, it begins to 
rain again heavily, and a more desolate-looking car's company 
can hardly be found. Fortunately, however, we are halted at 
a little place (called Hugo) where food can be obtained. 
Another afternoon passes; evening closes in. What a com- 
fortless position! Standing still away out on a desolate 
prairie in a drenching rain, — drenching, for the roof of our 
Pullman leaks badly, and all we can do is to follow the 
porter's advice and " wait till it swells " ! 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. II 

July 11. — Sunday morning dawns, however, clear and cool; 
and it seems as if Nature is determined to show us as bright 
a face as possible after her gloomy aspect of yesterday. After 
breakfasting on what the place affords, we stroll about and 
endeavor to pass the time as best we can; and I cannot help 
thinking how differently we are spending Sunday from those 
in Boston: for, instead of the musical church-bells, we hear 
only the discordant sounds from pigs, poultry, and cattle ; and, 
instead of the throngs of well-dressed people bound to the 
different churches, we see only a few weary passengers, and 
an occasional Indian riding along on a mustang. By dinner- 
time we find that our unexpected and prolonged stay at Hugo 
has somewhat exhausted its culinary resources; and for this, 
as well as other reasons, we are delighted to hear, about 2 P. M., 
that the bridges have been repaired, and that we can proceed. 
After travelling slowly for one hundred and five miles, we 
finally arrive at Denver at 8 P. M., having been on the road 
from Kansas City fifty-eight hours ! Every one coming to 
Denver hears, long before his arrival, of its excellent hotels, 
the best, indeed, between St. Louis and Salt Lake City, — the 
Grand Central, the Interocean, the Sargent House, and others. 
Not knowing, of course, exactly where they are located in 
the city, he will be somewhat surprised, immediately on his 
arrival at the station, to see directly opposite, across the 
square, a row of small wooden hotels, each one bearing one 
of these well-known names, its namesake being in reality 



12 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

located in a distant part of the town; and, unless one is on 
the lookout for this deception, it may happen that you take 
up your abode in one of these catchpennies before you dis- 
cover your mistake. This state of things should be sup- 
pressed by the municipal authorities. 

July 12. — We spend the morning in walking about the 
city, which is very pleasantly situated on the south bank of 
the South La Platte Eiver, with the snow-capped peaks of 
the Eocky Mountains rising in the distance around it. The 
town covers a large amount of ground, but does not seem to 
possess a very large number of inhabitants. Denver is re- 
markable for the many elegantly appointed billiard and drink- 
ing saloons and cigar-stores that meet you at every turn. 
The climate is cool and delightful. We leave Denver at 3.30 
p. M. by the Colorado Central Eailroad for a short stay among 
the Eocky Mountains, bound first for Central City. After 
riding for about an hour, we change cars on to a narrow- 
gauge railroad, and from this point the scenery is of the very 
wildest description. The road itself, built as it is along the 
banks of streams, and through cuts in the solid rock which 
now rises so high above your head that it almost shuts out 
the sky, is a tribute to man's superiority to the obstacles na- 
ture has placed in his way. As we stop a minute before 
a very steep ascent, I go forward and ask permission of the 
engineer to ride by his side, believing that one cannot ob- 
tain an adequate view of the magnificent scenery through 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. 1 3 

which we are about to pass while sitting in the cars. The 
engineer, however, says that, as the road is narrow-gauge, the 
cab is only just big enough for himself and the fireman. 
" But," says he, " many Eastern men ride up this canon on 
the cow-catcher." After assuring me that it is perfectly safe, 
as he can by no means travel at express rate, he places a 
broad board on the cow-catcher ; and, when I have taken my 
seat, with my hand firmly grasping the signal-flag, the engine 
gives a shrill whistle, and off we start. For the first five 
minutes I really enjoy my novel manner of locomotion. " This," 
said I, "is the very place of all others from which to view the 
mountains ! — to be pushed slowly up the gorge with nothing 
hefore you on the track, a towering mass of rocks on the one 
hand, and on the other, far below, a quickly flowing stream, 
hissing and gurgling over stones and fallen trees and old 
mill-wheels. Another five minutes passes by. I begin to 
speculate as to what will happen to me if, getting a little 
dizzy, I leap off the engine. If I spring aside to the right, I 
shall be crushed between the train and the towering rock; if 
I jump to the left, I shall be dashed to pieces on the stones of 
the stream far below. The result will be the same in either 
case, — death. Still the quickly-throbbing engine pushes me 
on. As we pass through a village the inhabitants turn out 
and stare at the engine, amazed at the novel figure-head that 
it carries. The village is left behind : we are again alone, 
making our way up the canon ; the hot breath of the engine 



14 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

stifles me ; the continual swaying from side to side affects my 
head ; I call aloud to the engineer, but the sound of my voice 
is drowned in the roar of the wheels. I try to grasp the little 
flag-staff more firmly ; it turns in its socket, and I am com- 
pelled to trust to my hold on the bars of the cow-catcher. I 
do not know how long I can endure this. I almost feel that 
I may faint. A village is in sight ! Do we stop ? Yes, for 
our engine gives a loud whistle, the breaks are put down, the 
wheels turn more slowly; we come to a stand-still. I leap 
off the engine and seek the engineer. 

" How far have we travelled since I got on to the engine ? " 

"Eight miles," is the reply. 

Eight miles ! I return to the car, much to F 's satisfac- 
tion, who tells me that he happened to look out of the car 
window, a little while before, and, as the engine slowly 
rounded a curve, he was amazed to see me sitting bolt up- 
right on the cow-catcher. At eight o'clock we arrive at the 
terminus of the railroad, a small mining town called "Black 
Hawk," where we find, waiting in the thick mist that has 
spread itself over everything, a comfortable omnibus bound 
for Central City and the Teller House, which latter spot, 
the best hotel in the vicinity, is to be our shelter for the 
night. The road winds directly up the mountain-side, and all 
along the way, a full half-mile, we pass straggling houses and 
mining buildings, with a saloon at every turn in the road. 
The inhabitants, however, seem to be a sturdy, honest-look- 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. 1 5 

ing set, and the best of order prevails everywhere. We reach 
the Teller House about 8.45 o'clock, and find ourselves in 
a very comfortable-looking hotel, surrounded by a small mining 
village, with high mountain-peaks rising in every direction. 

July IS. — After an early breakfast we ascend a neighbor- 
ing spur of the mountain, and the view in every direction is 
wonderful. On all sides, and stretching away off into the 
distance, countless peaks, many snow-capped, thrust their 
heads upward, while a thin bluish haze floats around them, 
brought out into stronger relief by the excessive clearness of 
the air elsewhere. We visit a gold-mine near by, and find 
the miners very intelligent and polite. At eleven o'clock 
we take the outside seats on the stage bound for Idaho 
Springs, a neighboring town noted for its warm springs, where 
also you strike the direct railroad back to Denver. Going 
down a mountain in Colorado on a stage-coach is no light 
matter ! The stage-driver shuts down the brake, and after 
taking a firm hold of the reins and giving a general caution 
to the passengers, "lets her run" away down to the foot, 
arriving there generally in perfect safety, but dashing and 
whirling round sudden turns in the road in a most alarming 
manner. The excellent stories, however, that one hears from 
these eccentric specimens of humanity almost excuse their 
apparent recklessness. 

We arrive at Idaho Springs at noon, and go at once to take 
a bath in the waters for which the place is celebrated. We 



16 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

have our choice of a tub or swimming-bath, and both prefer 
the latter. We find this to consist of a large square room 
made into a sort of tank, with about five feet of water always 
in it, a pipe letting the water in, and another discharging it 
continually. The water is always very warm; the medicinal 
properties may be determined from the following analysis : — 

Carbonate of soda . . . . .30.80 
Carbonate of lime . . . . 9.52 

Carbonate of magnesia . . . .2.88 
Carbonate of iron . . . . 4.12 

Sulphate of soda 29.36 

Sulphate of magnesia . . . . 18.72 

Sulphate of lime 3.44 

Chloride of sodium . . . . 4.16 

Chlorides of calcium and magnesia, each a trace. 
Silicate of soda 4.08 



Grains 107.00 

After dinner we take another stage-coach and drive to the 
railroad station, and soon after start in the cars for Denver. 
We have gone only about a hundred feet when a sudden and 
loud hissing sound, together with a peculiar grating motion 
of our car, causes every passenger to rush out of the train 
and look eagerly down the road in the direction of the un- 
usual phenomena. We see before us our engine lying on its 
side in the water of the stream by which runs the railroad, 
the track twisted and broken up for a short distance, but all 
the cars standing safely in their places. The hissing sound 



FROM BOSTON TO SALT LAKE CITY. 17 

is caused by the steam from the engine rushing out directly 
into the water. Soon the engineer (brave fellow !), who has 
gone down with his machine, emerges from the debris, a little 
but not seriously hurt. The fireman jumped before the en- 
gine struck the water. On going up to it I find that the 
broken mass of wood and iron was yesterday the very engine 
on whose cow-catcher I had ridden up the Colorado canon! 
Another train is telegraphed for, which soon after backs up 
on the other side of the accident, and we are soon on our 
way to Denver, which we reach at 6.30 o'clock, and once 
more are quartered at the Grand Central Hotel. 

July H. — At 7 A. M. we say good-by to Denver, and start 
by the Denver Pacific Railroad for Cheyenne to meet the 
Union Pacific Eailroad, which will carry us farther west. The 
day is very hot, the country flat and uninteresting, and we are 
glad when, at twelve o'clock, we reach Cheyenne and sit down 
to dinner. At 1.15 p. M. the Western train comes along, and, 
having engaged a section in the Pullman, we soon after start 
for Ogden. The prairie through which we are now passing 
is far more picturesque than that near Denver. The grass is 
greener, the land is undulating, and the landscape is frequently 
broken. Prairie-dogs gaze at us from their little mounds, and 
the graceful antelopes raise their delicate heads in calm con- 
templation as we rush by. At 8 p. m. a beautiful full moon 
rises over the prairie, and, taking advantage of a slight delay 
while the engine is taking in coal, I go forward, and, having 



1 8 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

easily obtained the engineer's permission, ride by his side (in 
the cab) for about an hour, the clear moonlight pouring over 
everything, making the night almost like day. 

July IS. — After another long day in the cars we reach 
Ogden at 5.30 p. M., and find we have forty minutes to wait 
before the branch train will start for Salt Lake City. Ogden 
is the terminus of the Union Pacific Eailroad and the starting- 
point of the Central Pacific Eailroad. Here, too, is the point 
of departure of the Utah Central Eailroad, which runs to Salt 
Lake City. Ogden is situated at the foot of some high and 
very picturesque mountains, and the air is exceedingly fresh 
and exhilarating. Three companies of soldiers from the United 
States military post at Salt Lake City are just leaving Ogden 
to proceed farther west to the scene of some recent Indian 
disturbance, and the full fighting-equipments of the men, the 
sharp commands of the officers, and the encouraging cheers 
from the lookers-on, carry one back, in memory, to the terrible 
days of our war. 

Soon after six o'clock we start for Salt Lake City on the Utah 
Central Eailroad. On either side of us a flat sandy desert 
stretches away into the distance. Soon we come in sight of 
the Great Salt Lake, whose unruffled waters, dull and metallic 
colored, are lighted up by the beams of the setting sun. At 
eight o'clock we reach Salt Lake City, and drive at once to the 
Townsend House, a hotel kept by a Mormon who takes great 
pains to give explicit information and even letters of introduc- 
tion to strangers who take up their abode with him. 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 19 



CHAPTER II. 

FROM SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 

Salt Lake City. — An Interview with Brigham Young. — A Bath in 
the Great Salt Lake. — Ogden to Stockton. — Starting for the 
Yosemite. — Four Days on the Eoad. 

July 16. — What a peculiar place ! The streets are broad 
and shady; the houses, mostly built of wood, are set a little 
back from the roads, and each one possesses its own plot of 
ground, where flowers or vegetables are cultivated. A city ? 
No; rather a great caravanserai in the centre of a burning 
desert. The roofs of the houses are flat, and little gardens are 
sprouting from them, forming pleasant resting-spots for evening- 
time. The men look coarse and ill-educated, the women stupid, 
and the little children neglected. One can hardly believe he 
is in an American city. A strange moral atmosphere pervades 
the place. The passers-by seem filled with the consciousness 
of a Presence which is ever at their doors, whose laws they 
must obey, whose continual supervision they cannot escape. 

The situation of Salt Lake City is extremely picturesque. 
It lies at the foot of the Wahsatch Mountains, whose snow- 
capped hills contrast beautifully with the deep blue of the 
sky. Considering its desert surroundings, it is well called by 



20 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

" the Saints " the " Eden " of the land. The population is about 
thirty thousand. A United States military post, Fort Douglas, 
overlooks the whole city, which could soon be laid low by the 
powerful guns which seem to be continually watching it. 

Immediately after breakfast we go to the Mormon Taber- 
nacle, situated in the centre of the city, not far from Brigham 
Young's house. On arriving at the grounds of the Tabernacle, 
we stop at a little lodge, where a guide — the custodian of 
the place — meets us and conducts us about, giving us full in- 
formation in regard to every point of interest. The Tabernacle 
is a very large building, " oblong in shape, having a length of 
250 feet from east to west, by 150 feet in width. The roof is 
supported by forty-six columns of cut sandstone, which, with the 
spaces between, used for doors, windows, etc., constitute the 
wall. From these pillars or walls the roof springs in one un- 
broken arch, forming the largest self-sustaining roof on the con- 
tinent, with one notable exception, — the Grand Central Depot 
in New York City. The ceiling of the roof is 65 feet above the 
floor. In one end of this egg-shaped building is the organ, — 
the second in size in America. The Tabernacle is used for 
church purposes, as well as for other large gatherings of the 
people. With the gallery, which extends across both sides and 
one end of this immense building, it will seat 8,000 people." 

We walk up on to the stage and sit down among the seats 
of the Elders. These form a semicircle directly in front of the 
organ ; while a large chair in the extreme foreground, covered 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 21 

with a coarse fur rug, is the throne of the Prophet, or "the 

President," as he is usually called. To stand on the stage and 

look across over the almost countless rows of benches gives one 

a very good idea of the wonderful size of the hall ; and when 

every seat is filled with "the congregation of the faithful," 

the sight must be very impressive. The entire exterior of the 

gallery is adorned with texts and maxims derived from various 

sources, the sentiments being partly Scriptural, partly political, 

and partly simply practical. They are as follows, each one 

being in large capital letters : — 

OBEDIENCE IS BETTER THAN SACRIFICE. 

SUFFER LITTLE CHILDREN TO COME UNTO ME. 

WE THANK THEE, GOD, FOR A PROPHET. 

KEEP YOUR ARMOR BRIGHT. 

GOD BLESS OUR TEACHERS. 

BE TEMPERATE IN ALL THINGS. 

IF YE LOVE ME, DO MY WILL. 

HOLINESS TO THE LORD. 

WHAT HATH GOD WROUGHT. 

OUR OWN MOUNTAIN HOME. 

UNITED WE STAND, DIVIDED WE FALL. 

HEIRS OF THE PRIESTHOOD. 

FEED MY LAMBS. 

DO WHAT IS RIGHT. 

OUR CRUCIFIED SAVIOUR. 

THE MOTHERS IN ISRAEL. 

UNION IS STRENGTH. 

KNOWLEDGE IS POWER. 

THE DAUGHTERS OF ZION. 

OUR MARTYRED PROPHET. 

GOD AND OUR RIGHT. 



22 D0TT1NGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

ZION IS GROWING. 
IN GOD WE TRUST. 
OUR LIVING ORACLES. 
THE KINGDOM IS OURS. 
THE HOLY PRIESTHOOD. 
UTAH'S BEST-CROP CHILDREN. 
BRIGHAM OUR LEADER AND FRIEND. 
HAIL TO OUR CHIEFTAIN. 
PROVIDENCE IS OVER ALL. 
CHILDREN, OBEY YOUR PARENTS. 
PRAISE THE LORD — HALLELUJAH! 
HONOR THY FATHER AND MOTHER. 
THE KINGDOM OF GOD OR NOTHING. 
GLORY TO GOD IN THE HIGHEST. 
THE PIONEERS OF 1847. 

Having finished the perusal of this pot-pourri of precepts, 
we leave the Tabernacle, and make our way across the grounds 
to the site of the proposed Temple, of which the foundations 
only are laid. The Mormon Elders are building this Temple 
from the tithes received from the people, — for every Mormon 
is obliged to bestow a tenth part of his entire income upon the 
church, — and as these vary in amount greatly from year to 
year, the progress of the building has thus far been very slow, 
and it is doubtful if it will ever be completed. The proposed 
dimensions of the Temple are, at the foundations, 99 x 186-J 
feet. The Mormons intend it for a building in which they 
can perform the rites and ceremonies peculiar to their religion ; 
the Tabernacle, as I have said, being only a place for general 
worship and assembly. 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 23 

We visit next the Warm Springs, situated at the foot of 
the Wahsatch Mountains, about a mile from the centre of the 
city. We find here a swimming-bath, similar to the one at 
Idaho Springs. An analysis of these springs was made some 
years ago by Dr. Charles T. Jackson of Boston. The usual 
temperature is 102° Fahrenheit. 

We now set out for Brigham Young's residence, to present 
a letter of introduction to him which we have received from 
a gentleman in Boston who has been instrumental in build- 
ing the railroad from Ogden to Salt Lake City. Our way lies 
through the business portion of the town, and we are very 
much struck with the strange appearance of several things 
around us. Salt Lake City is, as I have said, situated at the 
foot of the Wahsatch Mountains, and the clear water from 
the neighboring hills is conducted down the sides of the prin- 
cipal streets in broad wooden troughs, which never serve, as 
do the gutters in our Eastern cities, as a repository for general 
waste, but are kept thoroughly clean by the citizens, who 
look to them for a daily supply of pure water. I saw a little 
boy lie flat down on the sidewalk, and, putting his mouth into 
the gutter, enjoy as pure and refreshing a draught as can be 
obtained anywhere in the world. This swiftly running water 
keeps the air cool and fresh, and tempers the summer's heat. 

We see painted over many stores a large eye, with the 
following motto: "Holiness to the Lord." This is the dis- 
tinguishing mark of the Mormon merchants, and is assumed 



24 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

at the special command of President Young, who endeavors 
to keep all the trade of the city in the hands of this "Zion's 
Co-operative Mercantile Institution." We have now arrived 
at the outer gate of Brigham's residence, and we pause a 
moment to examine it. It consists of a very large and 
curious stone house connected with several wooden buildings, 
in which dwell the Prophet's wives; the left-hand one con- 
taining many odd-looking peaked windows, the whole sur- 
rounded by a high wall. There are three entrances. Over 
the left-hand gate is a large stone beehive, — the emblem of 
the Mormons; over the middle and chief gate rests a great 
stone lion stretched at full length; while a stone eagle, with 
extended wings, surmounts the right-hand doorway. A por- 
ter is always in attendance at the middle gate, and having 
showed our letter of introduction to President Young (as well 
as one to Bishop John Sharpe, which we also have), he informs 
us that we have come too early, as " the President does not 
breakfast till eleven, and does not receive till half-past one." 
He tells us, however, that if we will call again later we will 
be received. So we return to the hotel for dinner. 

Having finished our dinner, we set out again for the " Eesi- 
dency," followed by the respectful and admiring glances of 
all the attaches of the hotel, who evidently consider us of 
much importance, since we are actually to be received by the 
high authority of the place. Arrived at the main gateway, 
we are met by the porter, who conducts us under the sleeping 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 2$ 

lion into a sort of office, where many clerks, some of them 
sons of the " President," are busily at work on the affairs of 
Mormondom. Our guide, having seated us here, vanishes 
into the interior of the building. Eeturning soon after with 
a solemn face, he bids us, in a pompous manner, to follow 
him. We pass through the office into a wide hall, and cross- 
ing this, our guide halts us opposite a sort of double door, 
which evidently leads into the apartment of the Prophet. 
"When our conductor decides that we have composed our- 
selves sufficiently to go into the presence of his master, he 
throws* open the folding-doors in a manner which is intended 
to be impressive, and, bowing low, motions us to advance. 
We find ourselves in a long, high-studded room, plainly but 
comfortably furnished, at the upper end of which are seated 
a sort of semicircle of portly men, while a very large, elderly 
man with gray hair, distinguished from the others by a cer- 
tain air of firmness and command, is seated a little apart 
from the rest in a large arm-chair. As we enter he rises, 
and when the genuflections of our little conductor have ceased, 
Brigham Young (for it is he) comes forward and greets us 
politely. Having presented us to Bishop John Sharpe • and 
some other bishops whose names I do not catch, Brigham leads 
us to a sofa and converses with us pleasantly for about five 
minutes. He inquires especially about the gentleman who 
has given us our letter of introduction, questions us in regard 
to our proposed travels, and answers our interrogations in re- 



26 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

gard to Salt Lake City. At this point, thinking that we have 
remained long enough, we rise to take our leave. The bishops 
all bow politely, we acknowledge their salutes, write our names 
in a large " visitors' book," and receive Brigham's autograph 
in return, shake hands with the " President," and bid him 
farewell ; the little mannikin guide reappears, bows low, throws 
open the folding-doors, and ushers us out. We emerge from 
the dazzling light of the presence of the Prophet into the 
light of day. 

Brigham Young is now seventy-five years old; and though 
evidently the possessor of a strong constitution, he yet gives 
one the impression of being a very feeble man. His mouth 
is his remarkable feature ; with closed lips it looks like a vice, 
and makes one feel certain that he always executes what he 
decides upon. 

July 17. — We breakfast at six o'clock, and at seven o'clock 
take a train on the Utah Southern Eailroad for a little settle- 
ment on the Great Salt Lake, called Lake Side. We wish 
to examine the lake more particularly, and also desire to 
bathe in its peculiar waters. The Utah Southern Eailroad 
has lately been opened by Brigham Young. It is a narrow- 
gauge road, and extends southward from Salt Lake City for 
about thirty miles. The road runs directly across the desert ; 
and the surrounding country, besides being flat and very 
uninteresting, swarms at this season with mosquitoes, that fall 
upon us without mercy. After travelling about two hours, 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 27 

the train stops at Lake Side. This consists of a small hotel, 
built directly on the water's edge, a long pier near which is 
a little steamboat, and several bathing-houses. Going up to 
the hotel, we sit down on the piazza, and, after conversing 
awhile with the proprietor, turn our attention to the lake, an 
immense sheet of water, one hundred miles long and forty 
miles broad ! To-day it lies before us with scarcely a ripple 
on its surface. No fish leap up out of its depths, no insects 
scurry along its top. It is a dead sea. A naturalist, a corre- 
spondent of a New York paper, who has come to the hotel 
to make scientific investigations in the vicinity, assures us 
that he has repeatedly tested the waters. "No living thing," 
says he, "is there but the egg of a little fly, which is depos- 
ited near the surface of the water." 

We take a bath in the lake. The water is so dense that 
it is impossible to sink, and so salt that it causes the eyes 
and even the skin to smart terribly. One can easily lie ex- 
tended on the surface. When you lift your feet from the 
depths you might imagine you had trodden on a mass of 
india-rubber, so great is the buoyancy. We leave Lake Side 
at noon, and arrive back at Townsend's in time for dinner. 

We have decided not to stay over Sunday, as there will 
be very little of interest in the Tabernacle. Neither Brigham 
Young nor Bishop John Sharpe are to preach. So at 4 p. m. 
we say farewell to the Saints, and, taking the afternoon 
train on the Utah Central Railroad, arrive at Ogden in time 



28 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

to connect with the train to the West on the Central Pacific 

Eailroad. A pouring rain has set in, and while F is 

securing our section in the Pullman car, I am standing on 
the platform among a mass of trunks, vainly endeavoring to 
attract the attention of the baggage-master. At last every- 
thing is ready; the passengers have taken their seats, the 
baggage is checked and aboard, the engine gives a farewell 
scream, and we are off. We start ahead, skirt the northern 
shore of the Great Salt Lake, and disappear in the darkness. 

July 18. — We pass through, to-day, broad prairies over 
which blows continually a fine alkali dust, very disagreeable 
to the eyes and intensely annoying to all the lady passengers. 
We stop at a "station" for dinner. Here we first make 
acquaintance with the Chinese waiter. A grotesque-looking 
Oriental stands between F and myself, and after enumer- 
ating the different articles on the bill-of-fare with astonishing 
volubility and without the slightest change of countenance, 
and being told that we will both take roast-beef, he goes to 
the side of the room and shouts out to his fellow-countrymen 
below, " Ptoastee-beef twice" Truly "the heathen Chinee is 
peculiar." 

July 19. — Early this morning the passengers all crowd the 
platforms of the cars eager to see "The Horn," a deep chasm 
between two mountains, along the top of one of which our 
railroad is built. Far down below, fifteen hundred feet be- 
neath us, runs what appears to be a small brook, — in reality 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 29 

a stream over fifty feet wide ! The beauty of the spot is 
almost indescribable. The immense mass of rich foliage on 
either side of the chasm, the valley between, looking like a 
mere strip far below, and the many mountain-peaks which 
rise in various directions, all combine to produce an idea 
of immensity and far-extending space which is very im- 
pressive. The piece of railroad, indeed, on which we are 
now running, has a history in accordance with the wildness 
of the spot. The roadway was first dug out and fashioned 
by men let down in baskets from a higher point near by, 
and several lost their lives through the breaking of the rope 
while going to or coming from the scene of their daily labor. 
The scenery, indeed, from this spot to Sacramento City is one 
continuous panorama of exquisite views, broken only by the 
frequent snow-sheds (built for the protection of the road in 
the winter season) which line the sides of the hills. We 
reach Sacramento City at 9.30 o'clock, and after making only 
a short pause continue our journey, and arrive at Stockton, 
our point of departure for the Yosemite Valley, at noon. 
Here we leave the train and proceed to the Yosemite Hotel 
for lunch. 

Stockton, situated on the San Joaquin Eiver, contains a 
population of about twenty thousand. The city carries on a 
large grain trade, has several hotels, over a dozen churches, 
and many fine public buildings. While on our way from 
Ogden to Stockton we found three gentlemen, who, like our- 



30 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

selves, are bound to the Yosemite, and with whom we are 
very much pleased to make the trip. These are Messrs. 

H and E of Boston, and Mr. S of the West. 

There are two distinct routes to the Yosemite Valley. The 
tourist can either leave the Central Pacific Kailroad at Stock- 
ton, go by a branch railroad to Milton (thirty miles away), 
where he will find a coach bound for the Yosemite, eighty-one 
miles distant, passing on the way the great trees of Calaveras 
County (considered the largest of the two groups of the 
West) ; or one may alight from the Central Pacific Eailroad 
at Lathrop, go by a branch road to Merced, a distance of 
fifty-eight miles, and complete the journey to the Yosemite 
by stage, as before, a distance here of ninety-two miles, on a 
road lately constructed. If he selects the latter route he will 
pass the great trees of the Mariposa group. We decided to 
go by the Milton and Calaveras route, but to hire a three- 
seated covered wagon, and driver, and perform the journey, 
as it were, by ourselves. Haviug changed our money into 
gold, for California has always preserved a gold basis, we dine 
at the hotel, and soon after, about seven o'clock, a wagon, such 
as I have described, appears, drawn by four powerful horses, 
and guided by a driver "who has made the trip eighteen 
times this season, sir " ! We put on board a very moderate 
allowance of baggage; the idlers in front of the hotel gaze 
at us curiously, almost sympathetically, as if knowing well 
the various hardships we shall have to undergo; the driver 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 3 1 

gathers up his reins, cracks his long whip, and we rattle off 
in a great cloud of dust. The road lies directly across the 
prairie, and the full moon, shining brightly over everything, 
makes the country almost as light as if it was the sun itself. 
Our evening ride is delightful, and at midnight we rumble 
into Milton, a small town which has been recently swept by 
fire and a tornado, and draw up before the Tornado Hotel 
(called so from the town's calamity), only to find that the 
landlord, probably not being in the habit of receiving guests 
at this hour, has closed his house for the night; but a shrill, 
weird scream from our driver (in imitation of the screech-owl) 
quickly rouses him, and, as we intend to continue our journey 
very early on the following morning, the whole party sepa- 
rate for the night. 

July W. — According to orders, our landlord rouses us at 
four o'clock, and after a cup of coffee (as we intend to stop 
for breakfast on the road), we start again on our way, getting 
in motion thus early, because, while the journey from Milton 
to the " Big Trees " of Calaveras usually occupies parties two 
days, on their way to the Yosemite, we being somewhat in 
haste, have decided, by changing horses at a point thirty-four 
miles away, to visit the trees and return to the main road the 
same day. Our track lies through a very wild and pictu- 
resque district, with scarcely a house anywhere about us. We 
pass great numbers of quail, pigeons, and " jack -rabbits," be- 
sides magpies and hawks innumerable. About noon wc stop 



32 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

for a short rest at a small mining town whose principal citi- 
zen is soon in conversation with us. He says he was origi- 
nally from Boston; but as he left that city twenty-five years 
ago, we find that he does not retain a very lively interest in 
regard to his former residence. Soon after this we reach 
Murphy's Camp, a mining town where we are to change 
horses for the Calaveras trees, and to which we intend to 
return for the night. After a wait of fifteen minutes, we 
start off with fresh horses and at once begin the ascent of 
the mountain, on the summit of which are the great trees. 
The dust is terrible and the heat intense. After grinding 
along for four hours, we reach the summit of the mountain, 
and see at once that even all the outlying trees, at a distance 
from the giants themselves, are of far more than ordinary 
size. "We emerge from the woods into an open avenue, and 
see ahead of us " The Sentinels," — two of the big trees which 
stand one on each side of the road leading up to the hotel. 
What immense fellows ! The mind almost fails to grasp their 
proportions, almost refuses to accept the testimony of the 
eye. We reach the hotel at last, and having turned our at- 
tention to dinner (for we have eaten very little since morning), 
we walk out into the neighboring grove and are lost in won- 
der at the giant trees that grow on every side. " There are 
only two species of this genus known to botanists': the Sequoia 
gigantea, or Big Tree, and the Sequoia sempervirens, or Eed- 
wood. The latter are very numerous, and are found all along 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YO SEMITE VALLEY. 33 

the Coast Kange. The former have been found only in the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains." The largest tree is called the 
" Father of the Forest," and measures one hundred and twelve 
feet in circumference, and four hundred and thirty feet in 
height. This tree now lies at full length, having been up- 
rooted in a terrible storm some years ago. Upon a section of 
another tree twenty-five feet in diameter a house has been 
erected, and thirty-two persons are said to have danced there 
at one time. Another immense fellow eighteen feet in diam- 
eter is stretched on the ground, and persons on horseback, 
entering through a knot-hole, can ride into the tree for two 
hundred feet. Many of the trees bear well-known names, — 
Abraham Lincoln ; Dr. Asa Gray ; The Three Graces, etc. As 
our time is limited, we turn our faces homeward, and driving 
rapidly down the mountain, reach Murphy's Camp at ten 
o'clock and go at once to bed. 

July 21. — We breakfast at six o'clock, and in an hour are 
again on our way. The road is immoderately dusty, the day 
one of the very hottest possible, and good water — not to 
mention ice-water — quite unattainable. Every half-hour one 
of us asks the driver, " How much farther to Sonora " (the 
place where we are to dine), and the patience of that worthy 
must be sorely tried. However, all drives, even the most 
uninteresting, have an end; and just before noon we drive 
into our wished-for village, where, waiting for dinner, we 
happen upon an old Harvard graduate of the class of '52, who 



34 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

has drifted out into this part of the country, and, for the 
sake of our Alma Mater, insists upon showing us all the 
hospitality the place affords. We soon see that nothing gives 
him so much pleasure as recounting his long-past college ex- 
periences; and we listen with interest while he tells laughable 
anecdotes of his classmates, some of whom we have learned 
to look upon with all the solemn veneration due from an un- 
dergraduate to an instructor. 

We resume our journey, passing all the afternoon through 
small mining towns and scattered settlements, and at seven 
o'clock we come to the foot of a high mountain, and, after giving 
our horses a good rest, begin the ascent. The road runs for the 
entire way along the edge of a very deep chasm, which separates 
this mountain from its neighbor. At last we reach the summit, 
and draw up before a little hotel kept by a thrifty Scotchman 
and his wife, — the man an old " Forty-niner," who has become 
a thorough Californian. A most enjoyable contrast is this 
house to our other stopping-places along the road. The fresh- 
est eggs, the most delicious bread and butter, together with 
the very whitest table-linen, refresh us physically and mentally. 
The house, from the proprietor, is called Priest's, and, cer- 
tainly, its ministrations are not in vain. After tea we sit out 
on the little piazza, on a level with the various mountain-peaks 
around us, and witness a very beautiful sunset, the clearness 
of the air greatly enhancing the loveliness of the picture. The 
sun, a great molten mass, slowly sinks behind a curtain of pink 



SALT LAKE CITY TO THE YOSEMITE VALLEY. 35 

and gray ; soon the pink disappears, the gray deepens into a 
dark blue border, the stars shine out one by one, night-hawks 
fly rapidly to and fro, and night has begun. 

July 22. — We are on our way again at six o'clock, and, hav- 
ing stopped at the usual mining town for dinner, find ourselves 
at the foot of the mountain beyond which lies the Yosemite 
Valley. We intend to pass the night on the summit of the 
mountain, and enter the valley to-morrow. We continue our 
journey at 4 P. M., and almost at once begin the ascent. As 
the wagon winds wearily up the road, I alight for a walk, and, 
having distanced my friends by about a mile, I throw myself 
under a tree by the side of the road, and, regardless of rattle- 
snakes (which are plenty in the vicinity), lie still, struck with 
the silence and solitude of the forest. The wind murmurs 
pleasantly in the pines ; a little mountain stream gurgles over 
the rocks strewn in its way ; the sharp chatter of a squirrel is 
soothed by the gentle cooing of a dove ; I can almost believe 
that I have strayed into the actual " forest primeval." A very 
prosaic-looking wagon, however, with four jaded horses, appears 
and recalls me to the presence of my fellow-men. We reach 
the top of the mountain and a little settlement called " Crane's 
Flat " at seven o'clock, and soon after supper seek sleep, lulled 
by the melodious voice of a tame "billy-goat," who continu- 
ally haunts our neighborhood. 



36 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER III. 

FROM THE YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 

Excursions in the Yosemite. — Stockton to San Francisco. — The 
"Chinese Quarter." — Embarkation for Japan. 

July S3. — We rise early, and immediately after breakfast 
continue our journey, eager to accomplish the descent of the 
mountain and behold the long-sought-for Yosemite. The road 
down the mountain is frightfully precipitous, and we congratu- 
late ourselves on having so careful a driver. On a sharp turn 
of the road, on the very edge of a deep chasm, we meet the 
regular stage-coach coming up out of the valley, and only the 
most scientific steering puts us by in safety. Soon after this 
we reach level ground, and are actually in the valley, with the 
grand mountains towering on all sides, and even in the first 
sight feel repaid for the various discomforts of the previous 
days. 

"Yosemite is an Indian word, which means 'large grizzly 
bear.' The valley is a deep and wide fissure or gorge in the 
Sierra Nevada Mountains, within about twenty-five miles of 
their very topmost crest, and lying nearly due east from 
San Francisco. It is a little over seven miles in length by 
half a mile to a mile and a quarter in width. Its total area 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 37 

comprises 8,480 acres, 3,109 of which are meadow-land. The 
entire grant to the State was 36,111 acres, and includes one 
mile back of the edge of the precipice throughout its whole 
circumference. 

"The altitude of the bottom or meadow-land of the valley 
is 4,000 feet above the sea ; while on either side the walls — 
which are of beautiful gray granite of many shades — rise to 
the height of from 3,300 to 5,300 feet above the meadow, and 
are of every conceivable shape. Over these grand old walls 
leap numerous waterfalls, from 350 to 3,300 feet in height, and 
in forms of inexpressible beauty that change with every instant, 
or are changed by every breeze that plays and toys with them. 
A remarkably picturesque and beautiful river, — the Merced, — 
full of delicious trout, and clear as crystal, runs through it, 
and then roars and plunges down an almost impassable canon, 
entering the San Joaquin Eiver about sixty miles south of the 
city of Stockton. Patches and stretches of fertile meadow, 
covered with ferns and flowers and grasses in almost endless 
beauty and variety, open at intervals on both sides of the 
stream, their margins set with flowering-shrubs which, in early 
summer fill the air with perfume. Deciduous and evergreen 
trees — from the shade-giving oak to the stately pine — form 
picturesque groups over valley and river ; in places presenting 
long vistas that seem like frames to many glorious pictures. 

"The general course of the Yosemite is northeasterly and 
southwesterly, — a fortunate circumstance indeed, as it permits 



38 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the delightfully invigorating northwest breeze from the Pacific 
to sweep pleasantly through it, and keep it exceedingly tem- 
perate on the hottest of days ; and permits the sun to look into 
it from six o'clock in the morning until half past four in the 
afternoon, in summer, instead of only an hour or two, were it 
otherwise. In winter, however, the sun does not rise upon the 
hotels till half past one in the afternoon, and sets at half past 
three." 

We drive at once to the Yosemite Hotel, — formerly Hutch- 
ings's, — and as we have previously telegraphed for saddle-horses, 
we mount directly (as our time in the valley is limited), and 
start with a guide for Snow's to see the Vernal and Nevada 
Tails. The trail, prepared by a man named Snow, — the pio- 
neer of this spot, — winds precipitately up the mountain-side, 
and the ascent occupies about three hours, the party necessarily 
riding single-file. After enjoying a magnificent view, as we 
rise higher and higher, we come, about noon, into full sight 
of the Vernal Fall, four hundred feet in descent, the Indian 
name of which is " Pi-wa-ack," — Cataract of Diamonds. The 
guide restrains our expressions of delight by telling us to " wait 
till we see the Nevada Fall." So, pressing on, we soon emerge 
on to a little bridge crossing a rushing stream, and, looking up, 
we see directly opposite us the great Nevada Fall, seven hun- 
dred feet in descent, pouring itself over a smooth perpendicular 
rock, while clouds of spray rise continually upwards and float 
gracefully away. The Indian name of this magnificent water- 
fall is " Yo-wi-ye," — Meandering. 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 39 

Near the foot of the falls is a little hotel, kept by Mr. Snow. 
Having dined here, and having thoroughly explored the neigh- 
borhood of the falls, we retrace our steps down the mountain 
with the aid of our horses, and reach the Yosemite Valley about 
five o'clock. The little mountain-ponies are remarkably sure- 
footed, and but for this the descent of these mountain trails 
would be attended with great danger; for the track runs, as 
I have said, along the very edge of a deep chasm, and in 
some places a stumble of your pony would hurl you far down 
on to the rocks below. Frequently, on arriving at a turn 
in the road, which was, for some little distance, perpendic- 
ular in descent, our horses would plant their feet firmly on 
the ground, and, like the mules of the Alps, slide down 
swiftly to the more level ground below ; the high pommels of 
our Mexican saddles proving of decided advantage meanwhile. 

We have arrived a day too late to witness the ceremonies- 
attendant on the opening of a new road into the valley from 
Mariposa ; but the ball of the evening before is repeated, and; 
to the destruction of our slumbers, the peculiar "music" of 
the band is continued unceasingly till morning. 

July %4„ — We breakfast at six o'clock, and at seven o'clock 
have mounted our ponies and are on our way to Glacier 
Point, — a very lofty peak from which a grand general view of the 
whole valley, with its surrounding mountains, can be obtained. 
Our road, as before, lies directly up the side of the precipice, 
and after ascending for about an hour, we come to a turn in 



40 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the path, from which we can look across the valley to the 
beautiful Yosemite Falls, three in number, the first being 
sixteen hundred feet in descent, the second five hundred and 
thirty-four feet, and the third five hundred feet. Proceeding 
upwards again, we soon come to the "half-way spot," — a flat 
ledge of rocks, near which is Agassiz's Pillar. This is an 
upright mass of stone, about thirty feet high, standing on the 
very edge of the precipice. After resting for a few minutes, 
we continue our journey, and arrive, about eleven o'clock, at 
Glacier Point, where we dismount, leaving our horses tied 
to a tree. 

Glacier Point, the Indian name of which is "Er-na-ting 
Low-oo-too," or Bearskin Mountain, is a peak three thousand 
one hundred feet above the valley, into which its side descends 
almost perpendicularly. The top is broad and flat, and from 
it the eye can review all the chief points of interest in the 
Yosemite; on this account a spot which should be visited 
especially by those whose time is limited. From here may 
be seen the Yosemite, Vernal, and Nevada Falls, looking like 
mere ribbons of water far below ; here also one is in the 
immediate neighborhood of all the principal peaks, — Half 
Dome, five thousand three hundred feet high; Cloud's Rest, 
six thousand feet; North Dome, three thousand seven hun- 
dred and fifty feet ; Mt. Starr King, five thousand feet ; 
The Three Brothers, four thousand two hundred feet; El 
Capitan, three thousand three hundred feet; and many others. 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 41 

Over the brow of the Point a flat ledge thrusts itself 
forward, and tourists with cool heads crawl out, and, lying 
flat, look far, far down to the valley below, — a feat which 
should not be attempted by every one. 

Before leaving Glacier Point we have the pleasure of 
being introduced to General Upton and Major Sanger, U. S. A., 
who, with another officer whom they are to join in San Fran- 
cisco, are sent out by our government on a tour of the world, 
to inspect the military forces of the various countries; and 
we are much pleased to learn that they will be our fellow- 
passengers across the Pacific. Leaving Glacier Point, we 
return to the hotel for an early dinner, and at four o'clock 
bid farewell to the Yosemite, and ascending a neighboring 
mountain, sleep once more on the summit at Crane's Flats. 

July 25. — We make an early start, and, retracing our 
steps, arrive, after a long day's drive, at Priest's, where we 
are welcomed as cordially as before. On our way we pass 
some of the immense cones of the sugar-pine, several very 
fine specimens of which we carry along with us in the wagon. 
As we have taken the precaution to procure a good supply 
of ice in the Yosemite Valley, we do not suffer so much 
with the heat as before. 

July 26. — As the day promises to be very hot, we start 
at 4 A. M., in order to reach Copperopolis — our halting- 
place for the night — before the sun has attained its full 
power. We have decided to stop at Copperopolis, as it con- 



42 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

tains a very comfortable hotel, and drive to Milton to-morrow, 
for there is only one train a day — at 10.30 A. M. — from Mil- 
ton to Stockton and San Francisco. We reach Copperopolis 
at eleven o'clock, and drive at once to the quiet family hotel 
erected by the firm of Glidden and Williams of Boston, prin- 
cipally for their own accommodation when visiting their 
extensive copper-mines situated near by ; but as the mines 
at present are not worked, the house, excellently kept, re- 
ceives tourists coming from the Yosemite, who are so fortu- 
nate as to direct their steps thither instead of going to the 
regular hotel of the town. 

On our arrival at Copperopolis we are surprised to hear 
that the stage-coach, which has just entered the town by a 
different road from ours, but one almost parallel to it and 
at no great distance off, was stopped near the Tuolumne 
Eiver, about four o'clock this morning, by a masked robber, 
who appeared suddenly from behind some bushes near a turn 
of the road, and who, bringing a double-barrelled gun to bear 
on the occupants of the stage, demanded the express-box of 
Wells, Fargo, & Co., assuring those in the stage (as well as 
the occupants of a private team, similar to our own, which 
was immediately behind) that nothing further was desired. 
Besides the shot-gun, the robber was armed with a Sharpe 
rifle slung across his shoulders ; but as there were eight revolv- 
ers in the stage-coach and six in the team behind, it seems 
almost incredible that somebody did not shoot the robber, 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 43 

since it is not likely that his gun covered everybody. It was 
urged, however, in excuse, that all were afraid that the rob- 
ber, if shot, would discharge his gun in falling, and thus 
endanger the lives of several of the party, — an argument 
which I have been told by a military man is groundless, as 
the muscles of a man shot are suddenly and completely re- 
laxed. 

July 27. — We leave Copperopolis at seven o'clock, reach 
Milton at 9.15, and taking the train from there at 10.30, 
arrive at Stockton at noon, and, after waiting about an hour, 
join the regular express from the East, and continue our 
journey on the Central Pacific Eailroad to San Francisco. 

We roll swiftly along through broad fields of thick grain, 
by well-stocked orchards, and past prosperous farm-houses. 
The heat is intense. At five o'clock we reach Oakland, the 
actual terminus of the railroad, and, leaving the cars, em- 
bark on an immense ferry-boat which is to carry us to San 
Francisco. Here we find a great change in the temperature. 
A thin mist is about us, the air is cold, and overcoats are 
necessary. We have plunged, in an hour, from the heat of 
summer into the bluster of March. The peculiar costume of 
the West is now rarely seen. The dress of the ladies is 
tasteful and stylish; that of the men, strictly fashionable. 
A cosmopolitan air is over everything. After moving rapidly 
through the water for about twenty minutes, we see dimly 
through the mist a large city rising from the shore to the 



44 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

summit of a broad MIL In a moment more we have left 
the boat and are in the midst of a crowd of vociferating 
hackmen in the city of San Francisco. We arrive at the 
Occidental Hotel in time for dinner. 

July 28. — The first house built in San Francisco — then, 
however, called Yerba Buena — was in 1835. The city became 
San Francisco in 1847, and now contains about 175,000 inhabi- 
tants, and enjoys a climate noted for uniformity and dryness, 
— the rain-fall being about half that of the Eastern States. 
Owing to the great fires which visited the city from 1849 - 1853, 
San Francisco is now largely built of brick, stone, or iron, 
particularly in the business portion. The city has many fine 
private residences, is amply supplied with schools, both public 
and private, and contains several theatres, and forty-six churches 
of various denominations, including several Chinese joss-houses.* 

We go this morning to the Bank of California to obtain my 
letters, which I have ordered to be sent thither, and to present a 
letter of introduction to Mr. William C. Balston, the president. 
Arrived at the commodious quarters of the bank, we hand 
our cards and the letter to Mr. Ealston, who immediately re- 
ceives us with great politeness, and after talking with us for a 
short time, and urging us to make use of him in any way we 
desire, he complains of the press of business, and introduces 
us to Mr. Brown, the under chief. Mr. Brown extracts from 
a pigeon-hole a gratifying budget of letters for me (F 

* See Crofutt's Tourist. 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 45 

expects his at Mr. C. Adolphe Low's), and proceeds to converse 
with us in regard to affairs in the East. 

Standing in Mr. Ralston's private office and overlooking the 
multitude of clerks busily engaged with the affairs of the bank, 
one cannot but be impressed with the evident extent of the 
business, the diversity of its branches, and the power of the one 
master mind which regulates the whole.* 

Having presented a letter of introduction to Mr. C. Adolphe 
Low (who assures us of his regret that his town-house is closed 
for the summer), we spend the rest of the day in walking qui- 
etly about the city. Montgomery Street, devoted to banks and 
bankers, contains many fine buildings. The same feverish haste 
which I noticed in Chicago animates the people here. TaE, 
keen-looking men rush frantically by, with an expression of 
anxiety on their faces. They elbow their way past each other 
as a matter of course, and give one the impression that with 
them the race for the almighty dollar is verily one against time, 
and the Devil take the hindmost. 

At the upper end of Montgomery Street the houses rise to 
the top of a hill so steep that no carriages can ascend it. A 
flight of steps assists foot-passengers. From the summit a fine 
view of the city and harbor can be obtained. Many of the 



* No one could have supposed, from merely observing the exterior of things, 
that a great crisis was at hand. Mr. Ealston himself looked perfectly calm and 
composed, and, except that he had not yet moved to his country place, no change 
had been made in his mode of life or his usual habits. 



46 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

private dwellings are large and well built, while the first-class 
hotels have few superiors even in New York City. The climate 
especially surprises me. In the middle of summer I find here 
the sharpness of fall. 

July 29. — Soon after breakfast we engage a carriage and 
set out for the Cliff House. This is a little hotel (somewhat 
like Taft's at Point Shirley, near Boston), situated about six 
miles west of the city, on the shore of the Pacific, near which 
are to be seen (and heard) the famous sea-lions. Soon after 
leaving the hotel we enter the city's well-kept Park, and pass 
by several beautiful cemeteries, containing the monuments of 
Senator Broderick, Starr King, Baker, and others. On the sum- 
mit of Lone Mountain, near by, is a large cross, a well-known 
landmark, which can be seen from far out at sea. Our road 
presently climbs a hill, and beneath us we see, on our right, the 
Golden Gate, " always open and inviting all nations to enter," 
but protected by a strong United States fort on the left-hand 
side. Soon we reach the Cliff House ; and even before we have 
alighted we hear the peculiar roaring of the sea-lions, who are 
continually jumping on and off a mass of rocks not far from the 
hotel. These animals look somewhat like seals, but are much 
larger, the biggest, called " General Grant," being estimated to 
weigh three thousand pounds ! Their cry is harsh and peculiar, 
somewhat resembling the syllables " Yoi-hoi-Boyi," which is said 
to mean (from the name of the champion), " Let us have peace." 
Immense numbers of sea-fowl are perpetually hovering round 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 47 

the rocks, apparently on perfectly good terms with their larger 
neighbors ; while the broad Pacific, stretching far away, with the 
many different crafts passing in and out of the Golden Gate, 
forms a picture well worth coming to see. 

On our return to the city we enter a horse-car and ride to 
Woodward Gardens, situated quite near the centre of the city. 
These gardens, which occupy about five acres of ground, contain 
specimens of almost every bird, beast, and fish under the sun. 
They are owned by E. B. Woodward, Esq., and " were laid out 
in 1860 for private use, but were thrown open to the public in 
the early days of the war, for the benefit of the Sanitary Fund, 
and in 1866 were opened permanently." The gardens are well 
worth a visit, the most interesting part to me being the trout 
aquarium, admirably arranged and most successfully admin- 
istered. Eare plants, wonderful birds, and many varieties of 
animals occupy the visitor for a full hour in a hasty survey, 
while much more time could be profitably and enjoy ably spent 
in careful investigation. 

July 30. — As our steamer is to sail for Japan August 2, we 
occupy the day in making some final preparations for the 
voyage. In the evening we receive a call from Mr. Edward 
Simmons, a college friend and Eastern man, who is in business 
in the city. 

July 31. — After a day passed quietly, at 10 P. M. we meet, by 

appointment, Colonel A , a detective officer, who has been 

employed by the city for over twenty years, who has promised 



48 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

to take us through the Chinese Quarter, assuring us at the 
same time that we must expect the most disagreeable sights 
and the roughest surroundings. Leaving the main streets of 
the city, we arrive, before long, at the portion entirely inhabited 
by Chinese, and are at once in the midst of a chattering crowd 
of these foreigners, who are continually entering or leaving their 
various places of assembly along the way. Low, curious-looking 
buildings are on all sides, many hung with Chinese lanterns, or 
bearing large signs, which, with their odd figures and characters, 
give a strange air to everything about us. Our guide conducts 
us up the street and, pausing at the foot of a dark, villanous- 
looking flight of stairs, leads the ascent, we following close 
behind. At the top of the stairs we find a sort of hall, at the 
end of which are two large folding-doors, the entrance to the 
joss-house, or temple. The detective enters without ceremony, 
and shutting the doors after us, lights a candle at a small fire 
burning before a hideous idol directly opposite the entrance, 
and pauses a moment to let us look about the curious chamber. 
By the light of the candle we see we are in a large room 
hung with various kinds of gaudy ornaments, round the sides 
of which, in alcoves, are standing idols representing different 
Chinese deities, each one resting on a sort of throne, while a 
lamp burns dimly before all. The room is so long and wide 
that it is dark, 

" Save where the lamps that glimmered few and faint, 
Lighted a little space before some saint." 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 49 

Opposite the entrance are the gods of Fire, Air, and Earth ; near 
by sits the god of Commerce ; while apart from the rest, shrouded 
in white garments, stands a melancholy looking figure, — the 
deity who disposes of the soul after death. Every good China- 
man, on the death of a relative or dear friend, feels obliged to 
make some present to this god, in order to secure good treat- 
ment for the soul of his departed brother ; and we find some 
food, consisting of a thin wafer of bread, thrown down before 
the god, who evidently has not been hungry since its arrival. 

After paying our respects — if I may use the word here — 
to the different silent divinities, we leave the joss-house, and 
retrace our steps through the dark alley which leads to the 
street. We see two men, of suspicious and repulsive appear- 
ance, standing in close conversation in the middle of the lane. 
The detective gazes at them earnestly, but the darkness is so 
thick about us that it is only by peering directly into their 
faces that he can satisfy himself as to their identity. One look 
is enough. He smiles grimly, says a word to them in a low 
tone ; they pull their hats over their eyes and disappear in the 
darkness. "Who are those?" I inquire. "Two of the most 
dangerous men in San Francisco," he answers, "but I know 
them well, and can trace them like a dog." We go now to an 
opium-den situated in a street near by. Descending a flight of 
stairs, and going along a narrow passage leading under the 
street, we enter a small room lighted by several oil lamps and 
full of the peculiar smoke from the opium-pipes. The room is 



50 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

lined with bunks arranged, berth-fashion, along the sides of the 
walls ; and upon these are lying, one over another, about a dozen 
Chinamen, some smoking opium, while others, with their pipes 
fallen beside them, are far away in the ecstatic dream-world, 
free from the remembrance of care or toil. The faces of these 
have a look of most perfect repose, as if every unpleasant 
thought, recollection, or expectation has been forever annihi- 
lated. Their features, however, are sunken : they resemble the 
dead. 

Our party takes a pull at one of the pipes, and soon after we 
follow our conductor to a little hut, " where," says he, " I will 
show you what amount of air is necessary to keep a Chinaman 
alive." At the end of a foul alley we enter a little house 
containing one room, with one window securely fastened and 
entirely closed, the only entrance to the room being a swinging 
door which shuts after each one who enters. We are almost 
stifled by the horrible closeness of the atmosphere, which is not 
to be wondered at, for, with the window thus always fastened, 
the only fresh air that enters is brought in when some one 
comes in or goes out by the swinging door; and around the 
room, on their peculiar bunks, are lying eight men, besides a 
sad object in the midst, — a man sick with the leprosy. Many 
lamps and pipes are continually vitiating the air, and we are 
all obliged to beat a hasty retreat in order to draw our breath ! 
We go next to the Chinese theatre, — a small building full of 
plain wooden benches, with a little gallery overhead. The 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 5 1 

scenery is of the very commonest character, the stage being 
adorned with cheap curtains, red joss-paper, and curious Chi- 
nese inscriptions. The orchestra sit at the back of the stage, 
facing the audience, and keep up the most incessant din of 
gongs, drums, and trumpets I have ever heard. The perform- 
ance is largely made up of tumbling, of a very excellent and 
remarkable quality, interspersed with long processions of kings 
and queens, gods and goddesses, and the like. The players 
speak in a very high and disagreeable key. The "property- 
man" perambulates the stage continually, now picking up a 
mask which some actor has thrown down, now handing a false 
beard to another, with which to " disguise " himself. The audi- 
ence do not seem to object to the absence of illusion. They sit 
silent for the most part; but when the orchestra succeed in 
making a peculiarly harsh sound, or a player an astonishingly 
hideous grimace, a ripple of shrill laughter runs through the 
assembly, and the next moment they are as grave and stolid 
as before. The play lasts from four o'clock of the afternoon till 
daybreak of the following morning. 

We now visit a small house where we are initiated into the 
mysteries of the gambling game called "white-pigeon-paper." 
Every player as he enters receives a square piece of paper, upon 
which are printed various figures and characters. The banker, 
taking a piece similarly marked, puts a red stamp on twenty of 
these characters which he selects privately, the other players, 
of course, not being shown the different figures or squares which 



52 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

he has determined upon. When the banker has marked his 
slip, the other players endeavor to select the same twenty 
squares which the banker has chosen, and so accurately do they 
calculate that they are required to find ten squares before 
receiving anything for their pains. If a Chinaman hits upon 
eleven of the squares that the banker has marked, he will 
receive from the bank the same sum that he staked upon the 
play; if he marks twelve squares correctly, he receives twice 
his original stake ; and so on. If they do not mark at least 
ten squares correctly, their stake is forfeited. This game is 
played continually throughout the whole Chinese Quarter. 

It is now long after midnight. Our guide conducts us to 
the broader streets of the city, away from the Chinese Quar- 
ter, and leaves us. We soon arrive at the Occidental Hotel, 
and go at once to bed. 

August 1. — We pass the day in writing farewell letters. 
In the evening I dine with Colonel H. P. Curtis, Judge Ad- 
vocate of the Department. 

August 2. — The Great Republic is advertised to sail at 

noon, and an hour before that time F and I have come 

on board, and have stowed our trunks in our state-room, in 
readiness for our long voyage. As the hour for sailing ap- 
proaches, the ship is crowded with friends of the passengers, 
who have come to say farewell; and the number keeps con- 
tinually increasing, till the gong sounds, warning all who are 
not to sail to go ashore. Promptly at twelve o'clock Captain 



YOSEMITE VALLEY TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 53 

Cobb takes his stand on the "bridge"; the ropes are cast 
off, the immense walking-beam starts into motion, and, amidst 
farewell shouts and waving handkerchiefs, the great steamer 
slowly backs out from the wharf, the paddle-wheels strike the 
water, and we move away from America. Our farewell gun 
is fired, a tug throws us its line, and we are soon opposite 
the United States fort near the city, where we lay to, and 
take on board three naval officers and one hundred seamen 
from a man-of-war anchored near by, whom we are to carry 
to China. Then the tug shrieks its farewell, we reply with 
shrill blasts of our whistle, our chief-engineer gives the signal 
to "unhook her," and we are fairly off for Japan. We pass 
out of the Gfolden Gate, and past the Cliff House, and soon 
a dense fog, rolling in from the sea, wreathes itself round 
every portion of the ship, and shuts the land from sight. 
We fall at once into the miserable "land-swell"; the ship 
pitches terribly; the lady passengers retire to their berths, 
while more than one gentleman hurries away from the dinner- 
table in silent communion with himself. 



54 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER IV. 

ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN. 

The P. M. S. S. Co.'s Great Republic. — My Fellow-Passengers. — 
The Long Sea- Voyage. — Arrival at Yokohama. 

August 3. — A cloudless sky, a bright sun, and a smooth 
ocean stretching away on every side, — all this puts the ship's 
company in a far different humor to-day. The ladies, indeed, 
still remain in their state-rooms, but all the gentlemen are in 
good spirits, and everybody begins to make each other's ac- 
quaintance. The number of passengers is between thirty and 
forty, made up of several nationalities : four young Japanese, 
who have just graduated at colleges in the United States, 
returning to their native country; three United States Army 
officers, — Generals Upton and Forsythe, and Major J. P. 
Sanger, sent out by our government, as I have said before, 
to inspect the infantry, cavalry, and artillery in the East; 
two Italian silk-merchants ; five gentlemen (besides ourselves), 
making a tour of the world; the new American consul for 
Canton, going thither with his wife and child ; several Ameri- 
can gentlemen travelling on business; three United States 
naval officers, together with several young men intending to 
settle in Japan. Besides the one hundred sailors whom we 



ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN. 55 

took aboard off San Francisco, there are three hundred Chi- 
nese in the steerage ; and these, together with the regular sail- 
ors, officers, and cabin-servants, make up a varied company 
for the long voyage. We have on board also a very fine pair 
of horses and a gorgeous carriage intended for the Mikado of 
Japan. 

The Great fiepuhlic is a side-wheel steamer of four thousand 
three hundred and twenty-five tons, with capacity for one hun- 
dred and fifty cabin passengers, and twelve hundred in the 
steerage. On board all the boats of the P. M. S. S. Co. it is the 
custom to carry live cattle and poultry, which are killed when 
needed; and the consequence is that the most varied chorus 
comes from " between-decks " at all hours of the day and night, 
— the lowing of cows mingling with the bleating of sheep, the 
quacking of ducks, and the cackling of hens. These steamers 
are undoubtedly the finest line of ocean passenger-vessels in 
the world* The state-rooms are large and comfortable; the 
dining-cabin high, wide, and airy; while the long deck affords 
a capital promenade, or, covered over with a huge awning, 
is a delightful place to read or write. Everything possible is 
done for the convenience and comfort of patrons. The table 
is, on the whole, excellent; the meats, for the reason stated 
above, being of remarkable flavor and quality. Every attache 
of the ship, from lowest to highest, exerts himself to be accom- 
modating and polite. 

* My subsequent travel confirms this. 



56 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

Captain Cobb (of Cambridgeport, Massachusetts) is a man 
of decided polish, a thorough seaman, and most agreeable 
talker. The first officer, though rather grave and taciturn, 
will meet you half-way in conversation, and will always 
prove interesting. The chief engineer won his place by a 
very brave act performed a short time ago, when he was in 
an inferior position. Our purser, belonging to a well-known 
New York family, dresses exquisitely, and always looks as 
if he was just stepping out for a promenade on Fifth Avenue. 
The steward, a comfortable sort of personage, whom nothing 
disturbs, regulates the movements of the corps of Chinese 
waiters by a tap of a bell, and comes to our table from time 
to time to inquire if we are well served. In short, the vari- 
ous elements which are around us, coalescing as they do, yet 
being often so utterly dissimilar, afford a wide field for quiet 
observation and amusement. 

The boats of the P. M. S. S. Co. are not allowed, even if 
they have the most favorable passage imaginable, to enter 
the harbor of Yokohama before a certain number of days after 
leaving San Francisco. And if, as I have said, owing per- 
haps to very favorable winds and a smooth sea, a captain 
arrives off Japan before twenty-two days have passed since 
his departure from America, or reaches San Francisco on a 
return voyage before the specified time, he is not allowed to 
bring his ship into harbor, but must coast up and down till 
the particular day has come; and forty-five tons of coal is 



ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN. $7 

the limit for a day's consumption. The reasons for the above, 
as given by Baron Hlibner in his " Eamble Bound the World," 
are as follows : — 

"A captain who should arrive before his time, even if it 
were only by a few hours, would be dismissed the service. I 
hear every one around me blaming these restrictions. I own 

I think them wise and prudent The consumption of 

coal increases with the increase of speed, and that in a very 
large proportion : without counting the expense, therefore, the 
boats would have to be overloaded at starting. If the time 
of the passage had not been fixed, the captains of the four 
boats* would rival one another in speed, to the detriment of 
the vessel and the machinery Besides this, the mer- 
chants of Yokohama and Hong Kong depend on receiving 
and expediting their correspondence on a certain day, and 
that is only possible by giving such a margin to the boats as 
shall make allowance for the insuperable delays which now 
and then must arise from bad weather or contrary winds. On 
their side the company is anxious that the steamers coming 
from San Francisco and Hong Kong should not meet at Yo- 
kohama, because they would then have to be laden and un- 
laden at the same time, and so they would need to double 
the requisite staff of officials and coolies. Now this coinci- 
dence would often happen if the Californian boat were less 
than two-and-twenty days on the passage. Add to this that 

* The number has since been increased. 



58 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the government of Washington, which has a right to interfere, 
as it pays the subvention, hearing that the boats might shorten 
the run by two days, would perhaps be tempted to force the 
company to do so, and thus reduce the time originally allowed 
by the contract." 

For these reasons we do not expect to make long "runs," 
and consider that we have done fairly well since our start, 
having accomplished two hundred and twenty-five miles. 

August Jf. — The clear weather continues, but a slight head- 
wind opposes us. The lady passengers have recovered and are 
on deck to-day. At 4 P. M. the captain gave a false fire-alarm 
to drill the crew. The bells tolled, the whistle blew, and in a 
very short time each man was in his place with a bucket in 
his hand, the fire-extinguisher and hose were in readiness, and 
the officers appeared, prepared to command. The drill was very 
satisfactory, and went far to allay the apprehensions of the 
timid in regard to fire. 

August 6. — The routine of our life is as follows : breakfast 
comes at nine o'clock, lunch at one, and dinner at six. The 
passengers pass the day in reading or writing, conversing with 
each other, walking the deck, or playing "ship's quoits." In 
the evening the consul's wife takes her place at the piano 
in the little deck-parlor, and plays accompaniments for lit- 
tle ballads which her daughter sings charmingly. This young 
lady, about twelve years old, is the life of the ship, and is 
a great favorite with everybody. The military and naval 



ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN. 59 

officers are most interesting companions, and are great ac- 
quisitions to our circle. General Upton, the author of our 
" Tactics," is one of the most widely cultured men in our 
army. He was at one time an instructor at the United 
States Military Academy at West Point. General Forsythe 
is one of the handsomest officers I ever saw; a little above 
the ordinary height, with light hair and mustache, and pier- 
cing eyes which seem to read your very thoughts. Attired 
in undress military cap and jacket, he may be seen at al- 
most any hour pacing the deck in deep thought, as if plan- 
ning an attack. Eeticent as all truly brave men are about 
their own exploits, he has told me, from time to time, suffi- 
cient to prove that he has already seen an unusual amount 
of severe service. He is on General Sheridan's staff, and 
was by his side, " twenty miles away," when the news was 
brought of the outbreak at Winchester. He is experienced in 
Indian warfare, and has been frequently wounded. Major 
Sanger has been for the past two years Military Instructor at 
Bowdoin College, and possesses remarkable firmness and de- 
cision of character. When, a year or so ago, the students of 
Bowdoin attempted to throw off the burden — as it seemed 
to them — of military instruction, and broke out into open 
rebellion, Major Sanger, by taking a firm stand from the 
very first, not only caused the troubles to cease, but brought 
military training into such good favor, that many of the 
students formed an extra " Elective." The naval officers, 



60 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

too, are very agreeable companions, and to one of them, lately 
an instructor at Annapolis, I owe many useful hours of explana- 
tions in regard to the various problems of navigation that I 
see daily around me. 

August 8. — To-day is Sunday, and at half past ten the sur- 
geon takes his stand in the dining-cabin behind an extemporized 
reading-desk, — a large cushion covered with the American 
flag, — and reads the Episcopal service, the officers, passengers, 
and several seamen forming a congregation. In the psalm for 
the day are these words, which impress us, so far away from 
land, with their full signification : " The sea is His and He 
made it, and His hands prepared the dry land." 

The moonlight nights, at present, are delightfully pictu- 
resque. The full moon shines clearly over the waters. Our 
steamer glides smoothly along through the glittering belt, leav- 
ing behind a long dark trail of smoke, while multitudes of stars 
of unusual brilliancy shine out from every part of the heavens 
above us. 

August 11. — The Japanese are very bright, pleasant men. 
One especially interests me. He has just graduated from 
Princeton College, and has evidently used his time well. He is 
greatly impressed with the advanced state of our country, and 
hopes that many of our institutions will be adopted in Japan. 
He has been away from home for six years, — and at such a 
distance ! He longs to arrive, and is rejoiced as each day 
closes. He explains to me the different theological beliefs in 



ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN, 6 1 

Japan, and gives the preference to the abstract Shintoism, — the 
religion of the Mikado. 

August l^. — The passengers are all roused at a very early 
hour this morning by perceiving that our steamer has come to 
a stand-still. Hastening on deck, we see a large bark lying to 
near by, flying the American flag and exhibiting a signal of 
distress. A boat is on its way to us, and when it arrives we see 
it contains two emaciated men, who tell us that the bark is 
the " J. W. Seaver " of San Francisco, bound thither from the 
Fiji Islands, from which place they sailed sixty days ago. They 
have lost their reckoning for days, and, worse than all, are 
nearly out of food, having only a small supply of fruit on board. 
We send them an ample stock of provisions, give them their 
position on the chart, and, having returned to their vessel, the 
bark dips her flag, and with every stitch of canvas set to 
catch the favorable wind, bears away to America, and soon has 
vanished beneath the horizon. Sailing-vessels are rarely en- 
countered by the steamers, as they generally go above or below 
the steamer-track to catch the trade-winds. 

August 15. — Service was held to-day in the cabin, some of 
the passengers forming a choir. By the captain's reckoning, 
we are 2,426 miles from San Francisco. We saw to-day sev- 
eral schools of porpoises and also multitudes of little delicate 
flying-fish. 

August 16. — While sitting on deck this morning waiting 
for the breakfast-gong to sound, we saw several whales blowing 



62 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

quite near the ship, — a sight which greatly excited one of the 
ship's officers who had been on whaling voyages for many years. 

August 18.— Although yesterday was Monday, to-day is 
"Wednesday, and we have "lost" a day, for none of us have 
had a seventeenth day of August. We passed last night the 
180° W. longitude, and hence the change; but few of the 
passengers (except the naval officers) seem to understand the 
theoretical reason, and the latter vainly endeavor to make it 
clear to us. This will make the week pass very rapidly. 

August 19. — Every morning at eleven o'clock the captain, 
accompanied by the ship's surgeon and steward, makes an in- 
spection of the whole ship, and to-day several of us go with 
them, by invitation. It is astonishing to find how every inch of 
room is utilized on board such a steamer as ours ; and it is very 
gratifying, moreover, to see how clean every part of the ship is 
kept. We pass first through the steerage, where three hundred 
Chinamen are stowed. Plenty of fresh air is admitted through 
large open ports ; the men are sitting round in groups, chatter- 
ing Chinese, some gambling at dominos, while all appear com- 
fortable and contented. One portion of the steerage is given 
up to the Chinese for an opium-smoking room. In another 
part they have prepared a joss-house. Thus the long voyage 
passes pleasantly for them. Near by, but apart from the Chi- 
nese, are the quarters of the one hundred United States sailors. 
The thorough ship-shape appearance of each one's berth and 
kit clearly indicates the American seaman. 



ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN. 63 

We then take a look at the Mikado's horses, and cast a criti- 
cal eye over several sheep and oxen which are soon to be sacri- 
ficed for us ; and after a short visit to the storeroom and kitchen, 
we emerge once more on to the main deck. By the reckoning 
to-day we are 3,114 miles from San Francisco. 

August W. — To-day is the hottest of any since we left 
America. The sea is as smooth and glassy as a land-locked 
lake, the sun beats down out of a cloudless sky, and all parts 
of the ship are equally uncomfortable. After dinner, however, 
it is cooler, and standing on deck, about nine o'clock, we watch 
the full moon rise rapidly out of the water. The clear sky 
dotted with the brilliant stars for which this region is noted, 
the smooth ocean stretching far away on every side, and the 
great yellow orb apparently emerging from some unknown spot 
beneath the sea, and casting as it mounts higher and higher a 
long trail of glittering beams in which the waters seem to dance 
and leap, — all this forms a scene before which we linger long 
in silent admiration. 

August 21. — The great amusement of the passengers is 
pitching quoits on the main deck. Besides this, the monotony 
of the voyage is relieved by " betting on the ship's run," — a 
bottle of claret or champagne being the prize each day of the 
one who has estimated most exactly the number of miles ac- 
complished by the ship during the last twenty-four hours. It 
would be almost impossible to declare the number of bottles 
that will be distributed on our arrival at Yokohama, some 



64 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

believing that we shall reach that port Thursday night, while 
others fix Friday morning. 

August %5. — Our run to-day was 256 miles, and our total 
distance from San Francisco is 4,496 miles. We expect to 
reach Yokohama to-morrow evening, probably in time to disem- 
bark. In company with the chief-engineer I visited to-day the 
engine-room and furnaces, and inspected all the machinery of 
the ship. The furnace-room is seventeen feet below the surface 
of the water, and contains twenty-four furnaces, into whose 
roaring mouths half-naked Chinamen are continually shovelling 
coal. The heat is tremendous, and a short visit is amply 
sufficient. These Chinese coal-heavers work four hours and 
then rest eight, the arduous labor performed in the intense 
heat making it necessary for them to rest at regular intervals. 
A balcony surrounds the furnace-room, and standing on it, 
and looking down upon the dark chamber lighted only by the 
glare of the fires, before which dusky forms like very fiends 
are running about, the spectator may well believe that he has 
strayed into the infernal regions and is witnessing the antics 
of some of its devil-inhabitants. 

August 26. — At eleven o'clock to-day the welcome cry of 
" Land ! " is heard throughout the ship, and it is impossible 
to describe our delight when, far ahead, "cloud-like, we saw 
the shore" of Japan, and realized fully that we were rapidly 
approaching the close of our long voyage. As we continue 
to advance, the shore grows more and more distinct, and by 



ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN. 6$ 

four o'clock we are opposite Cape King. The water sur- 
rounding us is absolutely at rest, and the great paddle-wheels 
of our steamer toss up high waves, which disappear as soon 
as we have passed by. The beautiful green hills sloping 
down to the sea are wonderfully refreshing to the eye so 
long accustomed to an unchanging view of sky and water. 
The passengers are all on deck, looking eagerly towards land, 
while the bows are crowded with a chattering multitude of 
Chinese, delighted at beholding a well-known country. We 
pass strange-looking crafts with odd sails, whose scantily clad 
occupants gaze at us curiously. We turn our marine-glasses 
upon them, and try to make ourselves realize that we are 
looking upon the inhabitants of the other side of the world 
from where we live. Dinner is served at six, as usual; but 
everybody leaves the table continually, unwilling to lose sight 
of the approach to Yokohama. On our left we see a light- 
house bearing a curious flag, — a red globe on a white ground, 
the flag of Japan. In the distance a conical mountain lifts 
its head above the clouds, while the beams of the setting sun 
cast a soft light over its base. It is sacred Fusiyama, the 
holy mount of Japan, which rises fourteen thousand feet 
above the sea. Now, far ahead, we can plainly distinguish 
the many different vessels lying off Yokohama, and, erelong, 
we are slowly picking our way through the various craft, our 
captain standing with the pilot in the bow, calling out every 
little while to the quartermaster at the wheel, now, "Port her 



66 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

handsomely!" now, "Starboard!" now, suddenly, "Steady!" 
each order being promptly repeated by the steersman, who fol- 
lows it at the word. We pass the light-ship, fire our arrival- 
gun, make fast to our moorings at a little distance from the 
city, and come to a stand-still, — our voyage across the Pacific 
safely accomplished. 

Immediately our ship is surrounded by multitudes of native 
boats, — sampans, — a long narrow sort of canoe, propelled by 
half-naked Japanese, with long oars, with which they scull 
the crafts to and fro with wonderful skill and precision. We 
seat ourselves in one of these sampans, and our boatmen, 
keeping time to a peculiar cry, row us quickly ashore. We 
are landed at a flight of stone steps which reach into the 
water. Ascending the steps, we find at the top a score of 
curious two-wheeled carriages, each drawn by a Japanese, who 
takes the place of a horse. These little vehicles are called 
in Japanese jinrikishas, — man-power-carriage, — and are very 
comfortable and convenient. Large numbers of them are to 
be found in waiting in all the principal streets of Yoko- 
hama, and, owing to the ingenious construction of the body 
of the carriage, the natives are enabled to propel them at a 
full run for a long distance and with little fatigue. They 
are used constantly by business men and others, and are 
now as indispensable in Japan as cabs in London. Indeed, 
the number of horse-vehicles in Yokohama is very small, and 
on this account there is very little clatter or noise in the 



ACROSS THE PACIFIC TO JAPAN. 67 

city. All merchandise is transported on poles, which are 
carried by coolies on their shoulders. At night every jinrikisha 
is provided with a long Japanese lantern, bearing its number, 
and the many different lights darting up and clown a thor- 
oughfare form an animated scene. 

There are three good hotels in Yokohama, — the Grand, 
the International, and the Hotel du Louvre. We have been 
strongly recommended to try the latter, and, though most 
Americans select one of the two former, we decide to accept 
the advice. The proprietor of the Hotel du Louvre calls 
jinrikislias for us, on our arrival, and we accompany him 
to the hotel. It looks very neat and comfortable. Having 
left our hand-bags, we re-enter the jinrikislias and drive at a 
rattling pace round the city. The curious Japanese houses, 
hung with gayly painted lanterns; the cool-looking rooms within, 
strewn with mats, on which are sitting different families drink- 
ing tea or smoking; the strange sound of the language spoken 
about us; and the long lines of Japanese carrying burdens 
slung on poles over their shoulders, — all these things interest 
us deeply, and make us realize that we are on "a strange 
and distant shore." 



68 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER V. 

FEOM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 

Yokohama. — A Japanese Theatre. — Inoshima. — Daibtttsu. — - Kama- 
kura. — The Eailroad to Yedo. 

August 27. — "We are awakened this morning by a confused 
sound in the street below, and on going to the window we 
see it is caused by successive gangs of coolies carrying bur- 
dens slung on poles, who walk in perfect step to the sound 
of a peculiar chorus. The heat is intense. The sky is with- 
out a cloud. After breakfast we go down to the "Bund," — 
a wide road and embankment built along the sea-shore, — 
and descending the stone steps where we landed yesterday, 
we call a sampan and order the boatmen to take us to the 
Great Republic as we wish to carry our trunks to the hotel. 
Our baggage being placed on the sampan, we visit the custom- 
house, situated on the "Bund," near the point from which we 
started. The officials are very polite, and having merely 
raised the lids, pass everything, and we engage several coolies 
to carry our possessions to the hotel. We now walk out 
through the city, to present various letters of introduction. 
Yokohama was founded by the first English merchants who 
arrived, after the signing of the treaties, to engage in trade 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 69 

in the Empire of the Eising Sun, which, until then, had 
been entirely closed to them. Whilst the English Minister, 
Sir Eutherford Alcock, was carrying on negotiations with the 
Shogun about the territory to be given to Europeans on 
which to dwell, the merchants chose, of their own accord, a 
spot near a small fishing village called Yokohama, or " Across 
the Sea-Shore." This site, indeed, was very accessible to 
ships, but it subjected the Europeans to the danger of ab- 
solute imprisonment by the Japanese. Sir Eutherford Alcock 
was well aware of this, but, in spite of his advice, the Eng- 
lish merchants unanimously decided on the location. Sir 
Eutherford yielded to the wishes of his countrymen, and the 
new town sprung up. It was destroyed by fire, however, in 
1866. No trace of the disaster now remains. The town is 
built in the form of a parallelogram. Three large streets run 
across it, and many little passages and alleys connect them. 
Along the sea-shore is the "Bund," a row of fine houses 
fronting a hard, broad roadway. This is the favorite prom- 
enade of the foreign population. The native quarter lies to 
the east. The palace of the Japanese governor is situated 
therein. Curio Street, a continuation of Main Street, contains 
the chief stores. Here may be found silk goods, lacquer-work, 
fine porcelain and bronze articles, and old armor. A long 
bridge, carefully guarded by native troops, leads to the in- 
terior. This road soon joins the Tokaido, the great high way 
from Tokio to Kioto. The houses of the foreign population 



70 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

are built, for the most part, along trie "Bund." The foreign 
legations were formerly located in Yokohama, but they have 
been lately transferred to Yedo. To the right of the town is 
a high bluff, on the summit of which are many tea-houses 
belonging to foreigners and natives. The harbor is well 
adapted for rowing and sailing, and a foreign boat-club holds 
annual regattas. At night Yokohama is guarded by bands of 
native police, who patrol the streets, carrying lanterns and 
clubs, and uttering from hour to hour a shrill cry, which indi- 
cates to the inhabitants that " all is well." The streets of the 
city are clean, but very little attention is paid to keeping 
them in repair. Yokohama contains a population of about 
forty thousand, of which two thousand are foreigners, the 
English and Americans forming a large majority. 

Having presented several letters of introduction, we are re- 
ceived and welcomed most kindly, and made members of the 
" Club " for the time that we remain. We are invited by 
Mr. Chandler P. Hall (of Walsh, Hall, & Co.) to accompany 
him in the evening to the theatre, and we engage him to 

dine with us previously at the hotel. F and I have been 

joined by one of our fellow-passengers on the Great Republic, 

Mr. E. U of New York City, who has planned a tour of 

the world very similar to ours. 

Calling jinrikishas, we enter the native quarter of the city. 
It is a pleasure to look about us. The houses, the inhabitants, the 
odd costumes, the peculiar street-cries, — all arrest our attention. 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 71 

Multitudes of people are passing up and down the streets. 
There, a gang of coolies are carrying a heavy burden, chant- 
ing their strange song as they walk. Others are dragging 
hand-carts full of vegetables; while successive groups of men, 
women, and children form, to our unaccustomed eyes, kaleido- 
scopic pictures which keep us continually interested. 

The men dress in long flowing robes which nearly touch 
the ground. The coolies, however, and the jinrikisha-men 
wear only a white cloth around the waist. All have their 
heads shaved, except a curious twist of hair which is trained 
along the top of the cranium. They seem very good-natured, 
and are continually laughing and talking with each other. 
Frequently, when a foreigner appears on the street, a crowd 
of jinriMska-men scamper towards him, each eager to be em- 
ployed ; and the one who arrives first, having seen the stranger 
safely seated in his carriage, looks round upon his disappointed 
mates with a most comical expression of triumph; while one 
of the unfortunates will make some comforting remark, at 
which they will all laugh, and then they separate in search 
of another foreigner or wealthy Japanese, before whom the 
same performance is repeated. 

The costume of the women is quite picturesque. The gar- 
ments of the rich are elaborately embroidered, while even the 
peasants seem to take pains in regard to the general arrange- 
ment of their toilets. Their hair, very black and very thick, 
is braided into coils and kept in position by one or two long 



72 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

tortoise-shell or metallic pins ; and this is an operation so im- 
portant and so tedious, that it is only done once in two weeks, 
— the women always using at night a peculiar pillow which 
is placed under the back of the neck and which does not dis- 
turb the coiffure. Their feet are bare, but they clatter along 
in clogs which are kept in position by a thong passed around 
the great toe. The married women cannot be called beautiful, 
for all have their teeth stained black, in accordance with a 
custom started by a wife of a former Mikado, who, being very 
beautiful, blackened her teeth as a sign of fidelity to her 
husband, and commanded all women throughout the Empire 
for successive years to do the same on their marriage-day. 
The young girls, however, are exceedingly pleasing in appear- 
ance and manners. Their complexions, though dark, are not 
yellowish like the Chinese. Their eyes are very large and 
expressive, and though almond-shaped, not disagreeably so. 

After dinner, in company with Mr. Hall, we take jinrihishas 
and proceed to the native theatre. Following the invariable 
custom, our friend halts us at a tea-house directly opposite 
the theatre, and having addressed the proprietor in Japanese 
(for Mr. Hall speaks the language fluently), a servant of the 
tea-house leads us at once across the street and into the 
theatre, we not paying at the door, however, but simply men- 
tioning the tea-house at which we stopped. The Japanese 
leads us up a flight of stairs to the balcony, which is divided 
into boxes, with low partitions between each one, every box 




J A PANESE PEAS A NT WOMAN. 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 73 

containing some straw matting on which to sit. As soon as 
we are seated, the Japanese servant leaves us, but returns 
immediately, bearing an immense gayly painted paper lantern 
with a sentence in Japanese on the front, declaring (as our 
friend tells us) what tea-house we are patronizing. Behind 
him comes another native with a teapot and exquisite little 
cups, and a he-batchi, — a sort of charcoal brazier from which 
the Japanese light their pipes. The servants hang the great 
lantern in front of our box (upon which the whole audience 
turns and stares fixedly for several minutes), pour out the tea, 
make us low ceremonious bows, and leave us to witness the 
play. The theatre is small, but the curtains and scenery, 
together with gorgeous flags and hangings surrounding the 
stage, give a bright and festive appearance to the whole interior. 
The majority of the audience are seated on plain wooden 
benches ; a few Japanese ladies in an opposite box, lazily 
fanning themselves with immense fans, being the only other 
occupants of our part of the house. In front of them, like- 
wise, hangs a large lantern, which bears the sign of a rival 
tea-house to ours. 'The play itself, though rather uninteresting 
to us, is followed with the closest attention by the audience, 
and the efforts of the actors are rewarded at frequent intervals 
by a sharp " He ! " and sometimes by clapping of hands. Be- 
tween the acts vendors of fruit, confectionery, cigars, tea, and 
said (native wine) offer their wares, shouting out in loud 
tones as they walk about with great skill through the assembly 



74 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

on narrow boards raised a few feet above the backs of each 
score of seats. The orchestra sit on the stage ; and although 
the cymbals and gongs are heard continually, still the music 
is not so deafening or disagreeable as in the Chinese theatre 
in San Francisco. Here too, however, much is left to the 
imagination; a wooden screen, for instance, doing duty as the 
wall of a house. 

After witnessing two acts of the play,. and being assured by 
Mr. Hall that there is no immediate prospect of its drawing 
to a close, we leave the theatre and cross the street to the 
tea-house where we first stopped. Here, having partaken of 
tea served in small cups by pretty Japanese girls, the master 
of the house presents his account, written in strange characters 
on the thinnest paper ; and having paid the bill (which, includ- 
ing the theatre, tea, and attendance, is astonishingly small) and 
received the stamped receipt (which the Japanese are very 
particular to render), we are rewarded with hearty "Ar-ri- 
ga-tos" (thank you) from father, mother, and daughters, — 
the whole family falling on their knees and showing their grati- 
tude by humble prostrations. Entering our jinrikishas, we re- 
turn to the hotel. 

August 28. — We spend the morning in Curio Street, and are 
delighted with the multitude of beautiful and useful things 
that are to be found everywhere. One of the first places a 
foreigner should visit is Shobey's silk-store, where silk articles of 
all sorts can be obtained at prices which seem incredible. Mag- 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 75 

nificent bed-spreads, with a monogram exquisitely embroidered 
on one side; elegant dressing-gowns and smoking-jackets of 
heavy quilted silk; handkerchief-cases, monogram pincushions, 
scarfs, embroidered handkerchiefs, sofa-pillows, screens, — all 
these are to be found, of the finest quality and the best work- 
manship. Near by one can find the largest stock of fans he 
probably ever saw, the choicest lacquer-work and bronze arti- 
cles ; while the antiquarian will be in paradise looking through 
collections of old armor, ancient Daimios' swords, and grotesque 
idols. 

At 4 p. m. we meet again, by appointment, Mr. C. P. Hall, 
who has most kindly offered to accompany us on a trip to 
Inoshima and Kamakura, which includes a visit to the great 
idol of Daibutsu, or Buddha. The foreign treaties have by 
no means opened Japan. Europeans are simply allowed to 
reside and trade in the " treaty ports," and to travel from them 
inland for a short distance. The " treaty ports " are the fol- 
lowing towns, namely, Yokohama, Hiogo (Kobe), Nagasaki, 
Niigata, Hakodate, Yedo, and Osaka. In the vicinity of 
each " treaty port " are posts bearing signs marked in English 
and Japanese characters, "Frontiers of the treaty." Foreign 
officials, however, can obtain permission to travel in the in- 
terior, upon formal application to the Japanese government. 
At present foreigners can travel from any of the "treaty 
ports " fifteen miles inland ; but even now, if a stranger at- 
tempts to penetrate farther, he will be promptly stopped, ami, 



76 D0TT1NGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

unless an official, probably put under arrest. All the places 
that we intend to visit are entirely within limits, although 
Kamakura marks the limit of the territory open to foreigners 
in that direction. 

Our friend has sent his servant ahead, with two coolies, to 
carry a variety of food to Inoshima (where we intend to pass 
the night), as the native tea-houses afford little but tea, rice, 
and saki. Three bettos run ahead of us to take care of 
our horses when we stop by the way. These bettos are na- 
tive hostlers, whom everybody employs, who run along near 
their master and hold his horse when he alights, take care of 
it over night, saddle it in the morning, and stand ready for 
another long day's run wherever they may be commanded to 
go. They are very fleet of foot, being able to keep up for 
many hours with a horse, and altogether are a most useful 
and necessary servant in Japan. The distance from Yoko- 
hama to Inoshima is about fifteen miles. The first part of 
our way lies along the Tokaido, — the great highway across 
Japan from Tokio to Kioto. The road is wide, shaded by 
trees, which form in many places a complete arch, while on 
each side are native houses with their heavy roofs of thatch. 
As we ride along we find the people are celebrating the day 
as a festival. The houses are hung with flags and lanterns, 
which latter, as evening draws on, are lighted, forming a brill- 
iant sight. Near one cottage we see a group dressed in long 
white garments, chanting a prayer to the day's god ; while 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. ?J 

every now and then one of them strikes a deep-sounding 
gong, which adds its reverberations to the measured voices of 
the worshippers. The inhabitants call out to us from all 
sides a cheery " Oh-hiyo " (How do you do), while small 
naked urchins show a "touch of nature" by shouting after 
us, "Onata oh-hiyo tempo shinjo" (Hallo! give us a cent), 
exactly as the street-boys of our own cities favor us. About 
dark we turn off from the Tokaido, and, taking a road to the 
left, soon reach Katasi, where we leave our horses in charge 
of our bettos, and strike across the sandy bar that joins Ino- 
shima with the mainland. The tide is nearly high, and we 
are obliged to walk in the heavy sand. After trudging along 
for about fifteen minutes, we arrive at the foot of the hill on 
which the town is built, and plunge suddenly into the chief 
street of the place. We find ourselves at once in the midst 
of a most varied crowd. The markets are all open. Many 
of the villagers are buying meat, fish, or rice. Little knots 
are standing here and there in earnest conversation, while 
grave Bonzes with shaved heads walk slowly past, accompa- 
nied by some of the numerous pilgrims who are always to 
be found in this holy isle. We go at once to the chief inn. 
The best rooms are already occupied by a party of English 
from Yokohama; but our friend, who is very well known in 
this vicinity, persuades the proprietor to give us one of his 
own apartments : to which, after a little debate, he agrees. 
We pass through a common room on the first floor, devoted 



78 DOTTINGS MOUND THE CIRCLE. 

principally to cooking, and ascending a flight of stairs reach 
a balcony extending round the inner walls of the house. 
Leading off from this are several rooms occupied by the pro- 
prietor's family, while in an adjoining portion of the inn are 
the apartments we should have obtained, now held, as I have 
said, by others. We are given, however, the best of the 
native quarters, being a large room spread with matting, with 
paper window-slides, and several inscriptions in Japanese 
around the walls. These paper window-slides are shut to- 
gether at night, or in case of rain, while in ordinary weather 
they are shoved back, thus leaving the entire casement open 
for air. 

After a cold and refreshing shower-bath in the native bath- 
room (a very primitive affair), we turn our attention to the 
food that our friend's servant and the coolies have brought 
from Yokohama; and after doing it ample justice, we soon 
after call for beds (thick blankets placed directly on the 
straw matting), and endeavor to get what sleep we can, our 
rest being continually interrupted by the peculiar dozing 
sounds from the Japanese in the adjoining room, and by 
multitudes of fleas, so common in the habitations of the lower 
orders throughout the Empire. 

August 29. — The Japanese in the next room rise at day- 
break, and soon after sunrise we follow their example, and 
make our way to the beach, where we enjoy a delightful bath 
in the sea, bright with the beams of the sun, while Fusiyama 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 79 

looms grandly up in the distance. After breakfast we pro- 
ceed to visit the different temples and shrines that are found 
in various parts of the island. Inoshima is the most sacred 
spot in Japan. Every day is a fete. The houses are always 
gayly decorated with flags or religious sentences painted on 
cloth, while many banners are hung across the streets in 
honor of the gods. Ascending a long flight of stone steps, we 
come to an old temple filled with many curious and cherished 
articles, whose histories a pale priest relates at length. Here 
is a suit of armor, once worn by an old Daimio who per- 
formed prodigies of valor. Here is an immense sword which 
was carried by an ancient hero, and which slaughtered multi- 
tudes of the enemy. We are obliged to interrupt the old 
Bonze, for otherwise he will continue his romances forever. 
Passing on and ascending more steps, we come to another 
temple larger than the first, through which we are conducted 
in like manner by the resident priest. We examine thus a 
score of shrines and temples (none of which, however, are of 
special architectural beauty), and finally we descend a pre- 
cipitous hill and enter a long cave, passing over several huge 
blocks of stone which are nearly covered with water. At the 
entrance to the grotto a small boy with lamps meets us, and 
shows us all the wonders of his domain. When we emerge 
from the cave we find a heavy rain is falling, so we take 
refuge in a cool tea-house at the brow of the hill overlooking 
the sea, and drink tea from minute cups while our friend con- 



80 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

verses with the people. Soon a woman from our inn comes 
clinking along in her wooden shoes, bringing an ample supply 
of native umbrellas, which the people of the inn, believing 
that we are exposed to the rain, have kindly sent to us. We 
return to the inn, and, having paid the bill, depart with the 
usual excessive thanks from our hosts. We recross the sand- 
bar (for Inoshima is strictly only an island at high tide), and, 
having sent on the coolies in advance with the food, remount 
our horses and start off at a brisk canter for Kamakura, in- 
tending to visit the great idol of Daibutsu on the way. 

We have not gone far, however, when the rain, which has 
ceased for a while, once more comes down, and after waiting 
under a shed in vain for it to stop, we decide to press on. After 
riding for about an hour, we dismount at the foot of a flight 
of wide stone steps, and, leaving our horses in charge of the 
bettos, ascend the steps, and, passing under a huge stone gate- 
way, stop involuntarily; for there before us, its face in deep 
calm repose, is the bronze idol of Daibutsu, Great Buddha, 
— the realization, in countenance, of entire rest and com- 
plete annihilation of care ! This remarkable image is 44 feet 
in height, 87 feet in circumference of base, 8 J in length of face, 
3 J in length of eyes, 6 in length of ears, 3 in width of mouth, 
3 J in circumference of the thumb, and 34 in diameter of the 
knee. It was erected, hundreds of years ago, with the desire 
of displaying to the worshippers of the god a picture of that 
perfect, blissful peace of the world to come for which all should 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 8 1 

strive by a strict observance of the rules of the sect, and which 
is only to be obtained by a long and faithful probation in the 
body. This ideal has surely been realized in the bronze, and 
it seems to me it would be difficult to find another face ex- 
pressing such absolute repose. The drooping lids, the serene 
mouth, and the calm joy in the expression of the whole, — as 
of one who has striven for a longed-for object for a lifetime, 
and at the last has obtained the result to which he has con- 
secrated his whole being, — all this strikes the beholder, and 
keeps him long in silent admiration. 

After talking for a few minutes with the priest who lives 
near by, we pass through a doorway at the base of the idol, 
and ascend a flight of steps leading up to the interior of the 
head. A little shrine has been erected here. Having de- 
scended to the ground, we remount our horses and continue 
our journey to Kamakura. As we are leaving the courtyard 
I turn to take a last look at Daibutsu. The expression of the 
face seems changed ! The countenance is still, indeed, clothed 
with peace, but the mouth now has a scornful curl, indicating, 
as it were, that those who can reach the blissful state are very, 
very few. 

After a sharp gallop in a pouring rain (passing over the 
bridge where the two English officers, Major Baldwin and 
Lieutenant Bird, were murdered, in 1862), we reach the chief 
tea-house at Kamakura at four o'clock, and, having changed 
our wet clothes, make a capital dinner of the food which 



82 D0TT1NGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

has arrived before us in charge of our servants. Towards 
evening a young Japanese merchant who is acquainted with 
Mr. Hall comes to our apartment to pay his respects. He 
is very well educated and exceedingly polite, and our friend 
converses with him for half an hour. He accepts one of our 
cigars, and urges us to taste his saki. Finally he rises, bends 
his head low in a courteous salute with his arms extended 
gracefully, and, having said farewell, takes his departure. 
Soon after this we call for beds, which are brought, together 
with a large paper night-lantern always used in Japan, and 
with our heads on native pillows, — little blocks of wood on 
which is a small piece of cloth stuffed with straw, — we get 
what sleep we can, with multitudes of fleas holding high car- 
nival over our arrival. 

August 30. — We rise early, and after breakfast walk out 
through the town to visit the great temple. Kamakura is a 
city of the past. A long and wide stone avenue leads up to 
the massive steps in front of the temple. This structure is 
consecrated to Shintoism, — the religion now professed by the 
Mikado and his counsellors. In former times several Buddh- 
ist temples stood in the vicinity, but they have all been pulled 
down by express command. Kamakura was formerly the resi- 
dence of the Shoguns. A long and wide stone avenue, and 
the great temple of Hachiman, founded by the Shogun Yori- 
tomo towards the end of the twelfth century, are the only 
indications of the importance of the old city, once the sec- 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 83 

ond capital of the Empire. Many old temples, as I have said, 
have been destroyed; multitudes of houses and several pala- 
ces have been swept away; and tall trees and thick foliage 
are growing on the sites of wide streets once thronged with 
a busy crowd of courtiers, priests, officers, soldiers, and peas- 
ants. The perpetual silence of the present contrasts with the 
stir and bustle of the past. 

The Mikado and his court profess Shintoism. This is an 
abstract faith which takes the mirror* as its symbol, regard- 
ing it as an emblem of purity. Shintoists believe in one 
supreme God, do not worship idols, or look upon them as rep- 
resentations of supernatural deities. The Mikado, being an 
advocate of progression, wishes to throw aside old supersti- 
tions, and prepare his people, little by little, to accept the 
wiser institutions of the West. 

In front of the temple is a large stone Torii, — literally, 
bird-rest, — a sort of gateway found everywhere in Japan be- 
fore sacred places. 

After visiting the temple, we mount our horses and turn 
our faces towards Yokohama. As we canter along, we pass 
through little villages surrounded by broad rice-fields of a 
most brilliant green. The little boys wish us good morning; 
the young girls offer us their tempting little cups of tea; we 
leave the country, strike into more thickly settled districts, 
and finally emerge from the suburbs and find ourselves near 

* In Shinto temples mirrors take the place of idols. 



84 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the great bridge of Yokohama, thronged with a vast number 
of people moving hither and thither continually. We take 
leave of Mr. Hall and return to the hotel. 

August 31. — The railroad from Yokohama to Yedo was 
opened on the 12th of June, 1872. The whole distance, how- 
ever, seventeen miles, was not completed till afterwards. The 
line was built under the direction and superintendence of 
the English, and is most excellently constructed and thor- 
oughly equipped. Several trains run every day between the 
two cities, and large numbers of Japanese as well as many 
foreigners travel continually. 

We take the seven-o'clock train for Yedo. The following 
description of the journey is from a recent "Guide to Yedo," 
which appeared in Yokohama in 1874, and which is invaluable 
to all travellers : "Leaving the station at Yokohama (Cross 
Strand), the Shinto temple at Nogi is seen on the hill to the 
left. The ground to the right has been reclaimed by filling in 
the shallow waters of the bay with clay, cut from the banks 
seen on the left. The town of Kanagawa (Metal Eiver) is 
situated on a hill to the left. It was the place originally agreed 
upon as a treaty port, and a number of . foreigners lived there 
for some time in 1858-59. For good reasons Yokohama 
finally became the port of commerce, and the site of the 
foreign settlement. At Kanagawa the railway crosses the 
Tokaido (East Sea Eoad), the great highway which begins at 
Tokio and ends at Kioto. The next station is Tsurumi (Stork 



FROM YOKOHAMA TO YEDO. 85 

View).* The village lies to the right of the road, which 
passes through irrigated rice-fields. Kawasaki (Eiver Point) 
is a village situated to the right of the road, lying near the 
Eokugo Eiver, which is crossed by the railway bridge and an- 
other of native construction. Where the latter stands was 
formerly a ferry, by which, previous to the building of the 
railway, all travellers — Daimios with their trains of followers, 
foreigners from Yokohama, and people generally — crossed on 
flat-bottomed boats. On the river-flats will be noticed pear 
orchards, in which the trees are trained on trellises of bam- 
boo. These pears are of inferior flavor, but new foreign grafts 
are being set on the old stocks. To the right of the road, 
before crossing the bridge, may be seen a small but famous 
shrine gayly decorated, and approached by a numerous series 
of sacred red portals. While crossing the bridge, a good view 
westward up the valley is obtained. The railway passes 
through fertile rice-lands, and the Tokaido, well planted with 
trees, is again seen on the right. Across the bay are seen 
the mountains of the provinces of Kadzusa and Awa. Several 
small temples and cemeteries are passed. Emerging from the 
clay-cutting and again crossing the Tokaido, we stop at 
Shinagawa (Merchandise Eiver) station. To the left, in the 
bay, may be seen a number of forts, now dismantled, built 

* As the train draws up to the platform, I see a curious example of Japanese 
progress. A young native stands gazing at the cars, clad in the long flowing 
robes of his country, with a black stove-pipe hat on his head, and a cigarette in 
his mouth ! 



86 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

by the Japanese under the direction of French engineers 
for the defence of Yedo. Beyond them is the anchorage of 
the Imperial navy. On the wooded bluffs to the left are 
numerous temples and the old British Legation. A little 
farther on may be seen a stone and sodded bank on either 
side of the road, and two black gate-posts. The entrance to 
the Japanese capital is at this place. Passing over the 
causeway, and curving round the humbler portion of the 
city, we pass the building and grounds of the En Eio Kan 
(Hall for the Entertainment of Foreign Guests), formerly 
called Hama Goten (Strand Palace, i. e. Summer Palace of 
the Shogun). To the left may be seen the groves and pagoda 
of Shiba. The train stops, and we are in the capital of the 
Japanese Empire." 



YEDO. 87 



CHAPTER VI. 

YEDO. 

Description of the City. — Shiba. — Atago Yama. — Uyeno. — Asakttsa. 

"The city of Tokio,* formerly Yedo, is about nine miles 
long and eight miles wide. About one eighth of the area of the 
city is occupied by rivers, canals, and the moats of the castle. 
The Shiro (castle) is the centre of the city. It consists of a 
central citadel, and a large area of land within strong earthen 
embankments planted with trees and faced with stone walls,, 
some of which are very massive, over fifty feet in height, and 
built in a manner well fitted to resist earthquakes and land- 
slides. The moats are wide, but shallow, and are crossed by 
wooden bridges. The citadel is now dismantled, and many of 
the old gate-towers have been torn down. The Shogunf (often 
called Tycoon by foreigners) formerly resided in the citadel. 
Many of the principal Daimios had residences called YasUH 
(spread-out houses) within the castle circuit. In 1868 the 
Shogun was reduced to the rank of Daimio, and the Mikado 
took up his residence in the southern part of the citadel. In 



* 1 continue to quote from a pamphlet recently published in Japan. 
T Spelt also Siogun. 



8S DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

1873 the Imperial Palace was burned, and the Emperor now 
lives in the Tashiki which formerly belonged to the Daimio 
of Kishiu. The chief business quarter of the city is in that 
portion of it included in the area lying to the east of the castle, 
and stretching from Shimbashi* to the Kanda gawa (god's 
field river). 

" There are a great number of temples in the city, belonging 
chiefly to the numerous Buddhist sects. The two principal 
religions of Japan are the Buddhist and the Shinto f (doctrine 
of the gods). The former is the popular, the latter appears 
to be the official, religion. There are also a great number of 
Buddhist monasteries and a few nunneries in the city. Nearly 
all the cemeteries are under Buddhist regulations. Pure Shinto 
temples contain no idols. Several thousand shrines in honor 
<of Inarisama, the patron of rice, husbandry, and foxes, are 
found in the city. 

" The climate of Tokio is in general very agreeable, though 
wind and dust at some intervals, and excessive rain at others, 
make travelling very unpleasant. There are now (1874) about 
two hundred and fifty foreigners living in Tokio, most of them 
English and Americans. The majority of the foreign residents 
in Tokio are in the service of the Japanese government. The 
European quarter of the city, called Tsukiji (filled-up or re- 
claimed land), lies to the southeast of, and near, the railway 
station. "No foreigners are allowed to live in Tokio outside 

* The railroad station. t Spelt also Sinto, and Sintoo. 



YEDO. 89 



of Tsukiji, unless in government or Japanese employ. At 
Shiba, Kai Sei Gakko, Uyeno, and several other places are 
'compounds/ in each of which a number of foreigners live 
together. Tokio is situated on a large plain called the Kanto 
(eastern plain), in the province of Musashi. The Japanese 
Emperor Yamato Dake No Mikoto in the second century 
conquered and tranquillized this part of the main island of 
Japan. Many temples in his honor are to be found in the 
Kanto. Yedo is not an ancient city. Up to the year 1600 
there were on the present site of Tokio only a small castle and 
a number of straggling villages inhabited by farmers or fisher- 
men. In 1355 Ota Do Kan, a famous warrior and vassal of 
the Shogun Sadamasa, whose capital was Kamakura, twelve 
miles from Yokohama, built a castle, which still constitutes the 
western circuit of the present stronghold. The country around 
the castle and village of Yedo was still very wild until Iyesasu, 
the first Shogun of the Tokugawa line (who exercised almost 
imperial authority over Japan from 1593 to 1868), made Yedo 
his capital. In the time of his grandson Iyemitsu, the Daimios 
fixed their permanent half-yearly residences in the city, which 
assumed very much the appearance which characterized it down 
to the year 1868. The name Yedo means Door of the Bay, it 
being situated at the head of the bay of Yedo, shutting it like 
a door. In 1868, after the breaking out of the civil war, and 
the reduction of the usurping Shogun to the rank of an ordi- 
nary Daimio, the Mikado came to Yedo, which was called Tokio, 



90 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

or Eastern Capital. The name Yedo is now used only by 
foreigners. The appearance of the city has greatly changed 
since 1868. The castle and many Yashihis and temples have 
been burned, demolished, or have fallen to decay. New houses 
in what is called the "foreign style," and stone or brick bar- 
racks, have been built ; the jinrikislias have made their appear- 
ance, and the Jcangos or norimons which were borne on men's 
shoulders have disappeared ; beggars, naked coolies, men wear- 
ing two swords, Daimios' processions, and many other charac- 
teristic sights and scenes, — some very attractive, others very 
repulsive, — have passed away. The modern Japanese capital 
is, in a measure, both a Pompeii and a Paris, — a place of ruins 
and a newly founded city. Modern energy and civilization are 
everywhere found jostling the old indolence, ancient routine, 
and traditional custom. 

" The old city was divided into thirty wards or districts, which 
still retain their names. That part of the city lying east of the 
Sumiclagawa, or the river, is called Honjo. Shiba and Asa- 
kusa are also well-known divisions. Since 1869 the city has 
been divided into six great divisions and ninety-six subdivisions. 
It is a Fu, or Imperial city, and is under the direct control of 
the general government. The police force numbers thirty-five 
hundred uniformed men. The former Daimios now live pri- 
vately in Tokio. Many of their old retainers are government 
officials. The old Shogun lives near the city of Shidzuoka, 
about ninety-five miles from Tokio. The military garrison of 



YE DO. 9 1 



the capital usually consists of about seven thousand soldiers 
of the infantry, cavalry, artillery, and engineer corps. The 
population of Tokio, in 1872, was 789,000. It is doubtful 
whether the city of Yedo ever contained over one million souls. 
The vast extent of vacant space, as well as the lowness and 
perishable material of which the houses are built, will astonish 
most persons who see this city for the first time. For over 
two centuries the city has been well supplied with water 
brought from a pond and river several miles off in, and dis- 
tributed by, aqueducts made of wood, which require to be 
renewed every ten years. After the great fire in 1872, the 
burnt district was resurveyed, new and substantial buildings 
of stone or brick were erected in semi-foreign style, many of 
which are very handsome." 

Leaving the railroad station, we call jinrihishas, and proceed 
through the chief streets of the city on our way to Shiba, — 
the tombs of the Shoguns. The same street scenes are to be 
observed here as in Yokohama. The same crowds are moving 
about in various directions, the same cries and shouts are to be 
heard, the same curious buildings are on either side of the way. 
We arrive at the outer gate of the premises, and, ordering our 
jinrihishas to await us, pass in. " We enter a pebbled court- 
yard in which are over two hundred large stone lanterns. 
These are the gifts of the Fudai Daimios, one of the lower grade 
of vassals of the Shogun. Each lantern is inscribed with the 
name of the donor, the posthumous title of the deceased Shogun, 



92 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



the name of the temple at Shiba, and the province in which 
it is situated, the date of the offering, and a legend which 
states that it is reverently offered. The following is the read- 
ing on one, and will serve as a specimen : — 

TO THE 

ILLUSTRIOUS TEMPLE OF LEARNING 

(Posthumous title of the Shogun), 

This stone lantern, 

Set up before the tomb at the temple of Zozoji, 

In Musashi, 

Is reverently offered 

by the 

Ruling Daimio, 

Noble of the fifth rank, 

MASUYAMA FUJIWARA MASATO, 

Lord of Tsushima, 

In the second Year of the period of Strict Virtue, 

In the cycle of Midzuno ye Tatsu. 

(1711.) 

"Passing through a handsomely gilt and carved gateway, we 
enter another courtyard, the sides of which are gorgeously 
adorned. Within the area are bronze lanterns, the gift of the 
Kokushiu Daimios, vassals of a much higher grade than the 
Fudai. The six very large lanterns standing by themselves 
are from the Go San Ke, the three princely families in which 
the succession to the office of Shogun was vested. To the 
left is a monolith lavatory; and to the right is a depository 



YEDO. 93 



of sacred utensils, such as bells, gongs, lanterns, etc., used 
only on matsuri, or festival days. Passing through another 
handsome gate, we enter a roofed gallery somewhat like a 
series of cloisters. In front is the shrine. Entering this, — 
either with or without shoes, — the walls and ceiling will repay 
study. Each panel of the wall is richly wrought in arabesques 
and high-relief, the patterns and objects in each case being 
different. Above some steps is another room, in which are 
splendidly gilded reliquaries, in which the posthumous titles 
of the deceased are treasured. Descending from the shrines, 
we pass up another court, ascend a flight of steps, and enter 
another pebbled court, in which is a smaller building called a 
Hai-den, formerly used by the living Shogun as a place of 
meditation and prayer when making his annual visit to the 
tombs of his ancestors. Beyond it is another flight of stone 
steps, and in the stone enclosure is a monumental urn. This 
is the 'simple ending to so much magnificence.'" 

Erom here we go to an exquisite little temple near by, and, 
having removed our shoes, are invited by the priest to sit 
down near the shrine. Here it is delightfully cool, and we 
stretch ourselves out on the beautiful matting and gaze up at 
a large idol whose precincts we are invading. A high altar, 
directly behind us, conceals this part of the temple, — and 
well for us that it does! On the other side of the altar are 
several natives who are worshipping the god at whose feet 
we are lying in such disrespectful positions. We hear the 



94 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

murmured prayers, and see the pieces of money falling near 
us, thrown to the god by the faithful, who little suspect that 
some " barbarians " are taking their ease in the holy sanctuary 
of their god, — a place to which they themselves never pene- 
trate. These beautiful Japanese temples ! what a curious 
attraction they possess ! 

Having examined the other tombs in the vicinity, we return 
to the street, and, summoning our jinriJcisha-men (who are 
smoking their curious little pipes while resting under some 
trees near by), we call out, " Atago Yama," at which they all 
smile and nod, thus assuring us that they comprehend per- 
fectly where we wish to go. Atago Yama is a hill from which 
a fine view of Yedo and the surrounding country may be 
obtained. Two wide flights of stone steps lead up to the sum- 
mit from the street below. One flight is built straight up- 
wards, the other winds round to the right. The former is for 
men, the latter for women. This arrangement is not uncom- 
mon in Japan. The view from the top of the hill is, indeed, 
most beautiful. On one side is the bay with its junks, ships- 
of-war, and other vessels. A little beyond are the forts. In 
the distance are Kadzusa and Awa. To the south is Shina- 
gawa. Looking towards the city, the railroad station and the 
houses of the foreigners may be seen. The great clearness of 
the atmosphere enables us to mark the different buildings 
with ease. Looking now to the west, we see the groves of 
Uyeno, the castle towers, few in number, that still remain, 



YEDO. 95 



the great temples, and the houses of the rich banker, Mitsui. 
To the northwest is the Engineering College. From the west 
side of the hill we see Fuji-No- Yama and the Hakone Moun- 
tains. At our feet lies a large cemetery. Looking from this 
hill over the city, one is greatly impressed with the multitude 
of houses which lie before you. 

We sit down at one of the many little tables covered with 
awnings, which are scattered over the summit of the hill, and 
are served with a most refreshing drink, — a fragrant sort of 
tea made from cherry-blossoms, called sakura-yu. Our wait- 
ress is the most beautiful girl we have yet seen in the coun- 
try. Her complexion, though dark, is so delicate that it is 
very like one of our own brunettes. Her eyes are very large 
and soft, her teeth very regular and white, and her thick 
black hair is arranged in two high rolls, which are kept in 
position by a long tortoise-shell pin. She has a flowing robe 
of some cool-looking material, covered over with large Japan- 
ese patterns. A broad sash is tied about her waist, and her 
bare feet are thrust into little slippers of braided straw. She 
serves the tea in little cups, wishes us all a polite good-morn- 
ing, and then retires to superintend the manufacture of more 
sakura-yit. She is very graceful in all her movements, and 
her manners are truly lady-like. We summon a native who 
is standing near, who seems to understand English, and re- 
quest him to act as interpreter. We call for more tea, and 
thus bring our pretty attendant into our vicinity. Her name 



96 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

is Otsuru. She is eighteen years old, and her father is the 
proprietor of the tea-booth in which we are sitting. She has 
tended it for several years, and has never been away from the 
city of Tokio. She is very glad to see us, for she knows we 
have come a long way from our home, and she is delighted 
that we enjoy her tea. We inquire if she has ever had her 
photograph taken, for we feel sure she must make a charming 
picture. At this, she covers her face with her fan, and, refus- 
ing to stay longer, runs off to her little kitchen near by. We 
send successive deputations of natives to demand her picture, 
but she waves them all away. Finally she goes to a little 
lacquered chest and takes out several photographs of herself, 
which she presents to us. We bid her farewell and take our 
leave. At the foot of the long flight of steps we look back. 
She is standing under her tea-booth gazing out over the city. 
Alas for your beauty, poor Otsuru ! In a few years you will 
become the proprietress of the tea-booth where we found you. 
You will marry some small farmer or petty tradesman. You 
will stain your fine teeth black, and will no longer attract 
the notice of strangers. 

We call our jinrikishas, and order the coolies to take us to 
Uyeno (Upper Plain). This is a cemetery similar to Shiba, 
where several of the Shoguns are buried. We pass along a 
wide and thronged street, and arrive at last at a small stream, 
crossed by three bridges. The coolies choose the middle one. 
This is the spot where, years ago, a man named Sogoro hid 



YEDO. 97 



himself, and as the norimon of the Shogun (who had paid 
his regular visit to the tombs of his ancestors) was passing 
over the bridge, Sogoro thrust a petition suddenly into the 
hand of his sovereign. The grievance was redressed, but So- 
goro, his wife, and three children suffered death for the pre- 
sumption.* U^eno was the scene of a battle between the 
troops of the Shogun and the Mikado, July 4, 1869. "The 
Mikado's troops made rendezvous at the three bridges, in 
front of the black gate, the evening before. The adherents 
of the Shogun were strongly posted inside the enclosure and 
on rising ground. The battle lasted several hours, but by plant- 
ing two field-pieces on the roof of a neighboring tea-house, 
the Mikado's troops were enabled to force the gates, and 
to drive their enemies into the temple, which they set on 
fire." 

Having explored the grounds of Uyeno, and visited the 
tombs and temples therein, we continue our way to Asa- 
kusa (Morning Grass), a district of Yedo containing "the 
most popular temple in Tokio and the most celebrated in 
Japan." We enter a wide, paved courtyard. On both sides 
are little booths where people are buying and selling various 
kinds of small wares. A large red building called the gate- 
hall stands in front of the temple itself. Two colossal gods 
called Nio (Kings) guard the spot. "One is ever ready to 

* See Mitford's " Tales of Old Japan," Vol. II. ("The Ghost of Sa- 
kura "). 



98 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

welcome the man who repents and endeavors to reform ; the 
other is pleased when children are born who will become 
good men." Flocks of sacred pigeons wheel hither and 
thither, and the people buy grain to throw to them, expect- 
ing a blessing from the gods in return. Near the door of 
the temple is a tablet " hung up by a grateful Japanese who 
escaped death when the steamer City of Yedo, which used 
to ply between Tokio and Yokohama, was blown up in 
1870." 

The temple is dedicated to the god Kuanon. The interior 
is dimly lighted, but we can see that the main hall is un- 
usually wide and high. Men and women are continually 
passing in and out on their way to or from the shrine. Let 
us watch these men at their prayers. They make their way 
opposite the altar and fall down on their knees, bow their 
heads to the ground, and stretch forth their arms. They clap 
their hands three times. At the third blow Kuanon will 
appear. They believe he is now before them in very reality. 
With downcast eyes they murmur their requests, then, drop- 
ping a few coins into a chest, make way for others, who go 
through the same performance. The worship is evidently so 
honestly and humbly rendered, that one cannot help feeling 
sure that the natives are thoroughly in earnest ; and it is my 
firm opinion that the majority of them are as certain that 
they are doing their full duty, as is the most punctilious 
Christian who never misses a single service of his church. 



YEDO. 99 



"Stay for half an hour near these poor people, watch the 
expression of their faces, the play of their countenances, the 
fervor of their prayers, and then tell me if you don't think 
they really are believers. Dgubtless their belief is the lowest 
superstition; but they do believe and pray; and in praying 
and calling upon God they draw near to him whom they 
ignorantly worship. That they may ask, one for the suc- 
cess of a commercial transaction, another for the fidelity of a 
husband, or a new dress, — what does it signify ? They 
helieve." * 

In the vicinity of the temple are various little theatres 
where a sort of Punch and Judy show goes on. Behind the 
main hall are some very interesting wax -figures called ningiyo. 
These are representations of miracles performed by the god 
Kuanon. Near by is a large garden where several rare plants 
may be seen. 

Leaving the grounds of Asakusa, we go to a neighboring 
tea-house for lunch, after which we return to the Shimbashi, 
and, taking the train for Yokohama, arrive there about 6 p. m. 
In the cars we meet two of our fellow-travellers of the Great 
Bepublic, one of whom is in a great deal of trouble and per- 
plexity. On our arrival in Japan we heard of the failure of 
the Bank of California, which occurred while our steamer was 
on the Pacific; and one of these gentlemen had deposited all 
his fortune in the bank shortly before he sailed, taking their 



Baron Hiibner. 



100 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

circular notes. He hears now that his property is all lost. 
He thinks of returning by the next steamer, but his friend 
urges him to await further news.* 

We pass a delightful evening at dinner with Mr. Eichard 
Irwin. His house is large and very cool, and a wide garden 
separates the premises from the street. 

* Intelligence was soon after received that the bank would pay. 



YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. 101 



CHAPTER VII. 

YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. 

Yokohama to Kobe. — Osaka. — The Inland Sea. — Across the Yellow 
Sea to China. — Shanghai. — " Chin-chin-ing the Moon." 

September 1. — We spend the day in walking through the 
chief business streets, and visiting the principal stores, and 
find it hard to make a selection from the multitude of ex- * 
quisite articles that surround us in such profusion. In the 
evening we dine with Mr. John Walsh, of Walsh, Hall, & Co. 
What a charming establishment ! Situated on the coolest part 
of the " Bund," and surrounded with wide piazzas, the house 
seems the perfection of comfort. Within, high, wide rooms, cool 
mattings, and chefs oVceuvre of Japanese art. In the dining- 
room, three attentive native servants, who seem to anticipate 
their master's wishes. Everything easy, enjoyable, and cool. 
To us fresh from America such a style of life seems Utopian. 

September #. — We devote another day to Curio Street. In 
the evening we have the pleasure of Mr. Kichard Irwin's 
company to dinner. 

September 3. — We pay a final visit to Yedo to visit the 
shops, but find that the market at Yokohama is far superior. 
On our return to Yokohama we find that we have failed to 



102 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

deliver a letter of introduction to Minister Bingham, which 
we took with us to the capital ; and as we start to-morrow 
for Kobe and Nagasaki, we shall be unable to make the 
acquaintance of our country's representative. 

September J+. — Our trunks are packed and on the wharf ; 
an export duty of five per cent has been paid upon all our 
silk purchases, and, thanks again to Mr. C. P. Hall, the 
customs officials are obliging and brief in their dealings with 
us. Our steamer is to start at 4 P. M.; it is now noon, and 
we go to the house of Mr. Gustavus Farley, Jr., for tiffin 
(breakfast). Afterwards, in a pouring rain, we make our way 
to the "Bund," call a sampan, and are soon on the deck of 
the P. M. S. S. Oregonian, Captain Harris, bound for Hiogo 
(Kobe), Nagasaki, and Shanghai. Just before we leave, our 
faithful friend Hall comes aboard to bid us farewell, intro- 
duces us to the purser, Mr. L. B. Hooff (formerly an officer 
in the Confederate Army), and soon after takes his departure. 
A starting-gun is fired from the deck of our steamer, and we 
are off. Yokohama quickly disappears behind the thick cur- 
tain of rain and mist. Dinner is ready at six o'clock, and we 
are delighted to find that the purser has placed us at his 

own table, F being on his left hand, and I on his right, 

while Mr. U sits next to F . Of all the officers 

of a steamer, the purser is the one who has the most direct 
influence on the comfort of passengers. He it is who appor- 
tions the seats at the table, who obtains the most skilled and 



YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. 103 

attentive waiters, and who often has at the last minute sev- 
eral choice state-rooms into which the initiated are slipped. 
After dinner we smoke a cigar with the purser in his office, 
and this over, as the sea has risen greatly, causing us to roll 
about in all directions, we take our leave, and wedge our- 
selves into our berths as securely as possible, to avoid having 
our brains dashed out by some sudden lurch of the ship. 

September 5. — Although the rain has ceased, the sea is 
still very rough, and our vessel is tossed about, to the great 
discomfort of the passengers. Towards evening, however, we 
run into smoother water, and find that our captain expects 
to reach Kobe to-morrow at daybreak. 

September 6. — Looking out of my state-room window at 
sunrise this morning, the scene is varied and beautiful. At a 
little distance off lies the town of Kobe, with high moun- 
tains rising directly behind it. The harbor, dotted with junks, 
and sampans, is bright with the early beams of the sun ;: 
while near by I hear the monotone of the Japanese coolies 
chanting their peculiar cry while unloading freight from our 
vessel. Kobe is 349 miles from Yokohama. Although it is 
one of the treaty ports, it was only opened in 18C8, and at 
present probably has not more than 500 or 600 inhabitants. 
It is situated a mile to the west of Hiogo. A railroad con- 
nects it with the great city of Osaka, the old capital of Japan, 
from which it is distant about sixteen miles. 

After breakfast we call a sampan and go ashore to explore 



104 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the town. Our steamer is to remain here twenty-four hours, 
and we have ample time to visit Osaka itself. On reaching 
the " Bund " we inquire for the house of Mr. Eobert Walsh, to 
whom we have a letter of introduction. He lives near by, and 
soon we find ourselves at his door, and are welcomed most 

cordially. He is an old schoolmate of our friend U , and 

they have not met for years. He proposes to guide us 
about Osaka; but as he cannot leave his business till one 
o'clock, he advises us to go at once to Osaka and occupy 
ourselves in visiting the Mint, and promises to meet us at 
luncheon; after which he will escort us to the chief objects 
of interest in the city. So we walk slowly through the main 
street of Kobe to the railroad station, and after waiting a few 
minutes, enter the cars and start for Osaka. The country 
through which we pass is similar in appearance to that be- 
tween Yokohama and Yedo. Broad fields of rice surround 
thatched cottages ; many natives, with immense shade-hats, are 
working in the meadows ; and flocks of beautiful white storks, 
disturbed by our train, launch themselves into the air and 
float away to some more peaceful marsh. 

"We reach Osaka at noon. The city contains over 500,000 
inhabitants. Situated on four rivers (three of them branches 
of the Yodogawa), it is the receptacle of all foreign merchan- 
dise bound for the interior of Japan. The rivers upon which 
it is built are so winding that nearly three hundred bridges 
span the various turns and angles. 



YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. 10$ 

We call jinrikishas and proceed to the "foreign conces- 
sion," where we find a small hotel. Having ordered a lunch, 
we set out for the Mint. The streets are thronged; but the 
boats on the different rivers, carrying produce and merchan-. 
dise of all sorts, are the most striking objects in the city. 
Having arrived at the Mint (a large, well-built structure), we 
are halted at the gate by a guard, who demand our cards. 
These being displayed to the authorities, they are returned to 
us stamped with the necessary order of admittance, after 
which we are given into the charge of a polite official who 
speaks English fluently, who conducts us over the establish- 
ment. We find the very best modern machinery throughout, 
and the different employes seem thoroughly to understand its 
manipulation. 

On leaving the Mint, we return to the hotel for lunch. 
At two o'clock Mr. Walsh arrives, and after lunch we engage 
jinrikishas and are soon at the gates of the Castle. This 
fortification was the residence of the Tycoons up to the year 
1868, when, on the breaking out of the rebellion, the Tycoon 
was deposed, and the Mikado was restored to his rightful 
rule over Japan. It was in this vicinity that the hardest 
fighting of those days took place, and the traces of the strug- 
gle can be plainly seen. The Castle is built of the largest 
stones that could be procured, without regard to labor or 
cost, some of the single blocks being thirty feet long and 
twenty broad! In many places fire has loosened one stone 



106 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

from another; there, large pieces have been chipped off, the 
stone steps are broken and scarred; while here, at the top of 
the mound, the residence itself of the Tycoon — inside of the 
very strongest portion of the walls — has been utterly swept 
away by the torch of the enemy. A fine view can be ob- 
tained from this spot, and one can look across over Osaka 
with its winding streams, while high mountains opposite add 
to the beauty of the picture. A sentry accompanies us back 
to the gate (for the place is held by a garrison, and the 
visitor must send in his card to the commandant of the post, 
who will detail a soldier to act as escort), and, passing out, 
we are nearly deafened by a dreadful discord made by three 
companies of buglers, who are all practising foreign bugle- 
calls at the same time. We next visit a very old and ex- 
ceedingly sacred pagoda, called Tentoji, situated about three 
miles from the Castle. This pagoda is so ancient that the 
Japanese themselves are said to be ignorant of the date of 
its erection. 

It is now half past five. "We return to the railroad station 
and take the train for Kobe, which we reach at seven o'clock. 
We pass a very pleasant evening, dining with Mr. Walsh, 
and at eleven o'clock we return to our ship, which is to 
leave, as I have said, at daybreak to-morrow. 

September 7. — Although a fine rain somewhat mars the 
view, the scenery along the Inland Sea is magnificent. Our 
steamer, gliding through calm water, passes within a stone's- 



YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. 1 07 

throw of beautiful green hills, which rise boldly from the sea, 
cultivated in many places, with little villages nestling at the 
base, and many junks and sampans moving slowly in differ- 
ent directions. A fine sunset promises a clear day for the 
morrow. 

Four new passengers have joined us at Kobe, — Ex-Secretary 
Eichardson of Washington, with his wife and daughter, and 
Mr. George Hunter of London. This party have just arrived 
from Kioto, and only a few days ago Mr. Eichardson was 
stopped in the interior, and was told that he had passed the 
treaty limits ; but on summoning the proper authorities this 
was pronounced a mistake, and an apology was tendered by 
the officials. 

September 8. — The bright day that succeeds yesterday's 
storm is gratefully recognized as most fitting in which to view 
the beautiful scenery that forms the approach to Nagasaki. 
There is much on each side of the steamer to interest us. Our 
course lies, as yesterday, very near to picturesque hills and 
hamlets. The water is without a ripple. At about four o'clock 
we pass Arched Eock, seven hundred and eighteen miles from 
Kobe. This is a huge rock planted almost in the middle of 
the passage, and cleft so as to form a sort of natural bridge. 
Soon after this we see Papenberg, a perpendicular wall of rock, 
from whose summit four thousand Christians were hurled in 
1638. A portion of the island is covered with thick vegeta- 
tion. At six o'clock we enter the beautiful harbor of Nagasaki, 



108 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

fire our arrival-gun, and come to a stand-still. Many vessels 
are already anchored here, among them a United States man- 
of-war. 

Nagasaki is built at the foot of a semicircle of high hills. 
The European quarter is situated to the east. On the western 
side is Detsinia, the former Dutch factory, and behind this 
stretches the native town. Nagasaki became a treaty port in 
1858. Before this, the Dutch had entire control of the trade, 
but they were so restricted and so carefully watched by the 
natives, that they could only have regarded themselves as 
prisoners. 

September 9. — We breakfast early and go immediately 
ashore. Having presented a letter of introduction to Post- 
master Clarke (who kindly offers to show us the best tortoise- 
shell manufactories), we walk through the town with him 
and purser Hooff, and are delighted with the beautiful ob- 
jects for sale on all sides. Exquisite tortoise-shell work 
and tasteful and delicate porcelain-ware are the chief pro- 
ductions. The prices asked seem very reasonable, but a little 
bargaining is always expected. At noon we hear the United 
States man-of-war firing a salute in honor of the visit of Ex- 
Secretary Eichardson. At five o'clock we return to our steamer, 
and soon after we are making our way through the China 
Sea, bound for Shanghai. 

September 10. — A steady rain which has continued unceas- 
ingly since daybreak prevents us from sitting on deck to-day, 



YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. 1 09 

and further annoys us by tossing up (with its accompany- 
ing blasts of wind) a heavy sea, which puts the majority 
of the passengers in an unhappy state of mind and body. I 
have a long talk with the purser in regard to our late civil 
war. The purser is a man of education and of the most varied 
experiences of life. He possesses, as is natural, strong South- 
ern sympathies. He speaks of the assassination of President 
Lincoln, and characterizes it as a fanatical abomination, — the 
most damaging occurrence that could have befallen the South. 
The majority of Southerners feared that the North would re- 
gard them as instigators of the murder and supporters of the 
murderer. On the contrary, it was viewed as a most grievous 
calamity. In regard to the war itself, he says that he took 
up arms in defence of a principle which seemed to him then 
as sacred and as honorable as any which had ever driven men 
into strife. 

September 11. — At 9 A. M. we arrive opposite the light-ship 
anchored forty-five miles from Shanghai, and, having stopped 
to take on board a pilot, we proceed on our way. The water 
surrounding us is now of a dirty yellow color, for we are in 
the outlet of the great Yang-tse-kiang, which sweeps through 
China for many hundred miles. At ten o'clock we see, far 
ahead, a flat green shore, and soon we enter the Wang-poo 
Kiver (on which Shanghai is situated), and look with eager- 
ness at the new country which we are rapidly approaching. 
As we glide up the river we pass several merchant-junks and 



110 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

one Chinese ship-of-war. What strange objects ! Great eyes 
are painted on the bows; for the people firmly believe that 
a vessel without them is unable to see its way over the 
water. Their reasoning, expressed in "pigeon-English," is as 
follows : " Ship no have eye, no can see. If no can see, how 
can walk ? " 

At half past two we arrive opposite the warehouse ("go- 
down") of the P. M. S. S. Co. Our ship fires an arrival- 
gun and comes to a stand-still. We call a sampan ; the boat- 
men row us quickly ashore. We leap out, and set foot on 
the Flowery Kingdom, the Celestial Empire ! 

September 12. — Shanghai, eleven hundred and ninety miles 
distant from Yokohama and eight hundred miles from Hong- 
Kong, was opened to foreign trade in 1846. The foreigners 
(in number about four thousand) live apart from the natives 
in a reservation which is composed of the American, the Eng- 
lish, and the French "quarters." Shanghai contains probably 
the finest warehouses and private establishments of any city 
in the Empire. Indeed, the great houses of the merchants, 
stretching along the "Bund," are unnecessarily elaborate. An 
immense amount of money has been expended by the foreign 
residents, and the result is wide, clean streets, a superb club- 
house, an excellent race-course, theatre, public garden, and 
boat-house. The city is thoroughly drained, and a well-disci- 
plined police force and fire company, controlled by a carefully 
chosen foreign municipal government, preserve order and 



YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. Ill 

security everywhere. The Chinese city of Shanghai is situ- 
ated about a mile from the foreign portion, and contains about 
three hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants. The harbor is 
crowded at all times with steamers and sailing-vessels bound 
to all parts of the world. 

To-day being Sunday, several of our party attend the 
English church. Mr. George Hunter (whose arrival on 
board the Oregonian at Kobe I have mentioned) has de- 
cided to accompany us to Pekin. He has long wished to 
make the trip, but felt unwilling to start alone, knowing that 
the journey overland is exceedingly difficult, and, for a single 
traveller, dangerous. We are very glad of the addition to 
our numbers, and anticipate much pleasure from the com- 
panionship. 

We have determined to start at once for Pekin, for, quite 
early in the fall, the trip is rendered uncomfortable by the 
coldness of the weather; and we are told on all sides that we 
shall accomplish the journey under the most favorable auspices 
if we set out immediately. 

September IS. — As we are to leave Shanghai so soon, we 
only present a few of our letters of introduction, — one to 
Eussell & Co., one to Olyphant & Co., one to the American 
consul, Mr. Seward, and one other. These gentlemen give 
us much information in regard to Pekin and the way thither, 
and urge us to call on them on our return. 

September 14- — Fortunately for us, the favorite boat of 



112 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

KusselTs line — the Shing King — is to leave Shanghai for 
Tien-tsin (the port from whence travellers proceed overland to 
Pekin) to-morrow at daybreak; and, having filled our valises 
with our roughest clothes, we spend the rest of the day in 
packing the remainder of our possessions, which are to be 
left in charge of the manager of the Astor House. Early in 
the afternoon, however, a chit (note) is brought to us by 
one of KusselTs servants, which informs us that the steamer 
will be unable to start till to-morrow at noon. This change 
will give us another evening on shore, and we can therefore 
witness the Chinese ceremony of " chin-chin-ing the moon." 
To-day is the middle of the Chinese month, and this evening 
the moon is to be " chin-chin-ed," with all the usual illu- 
minations, explosions, and superstitions. To-day all Chinamen 
must pay their bills, balance their books, and make them- 
selves even with the world. This being done, a grand illu- 
mination is held in honor of the moon's Joss, who, if the 
night is fine, looks down benignly with a full round face. 
At eight o'clock we leave the hotel, and, accompanied by Mr. 
H. B. Morse, walk along the "Bund," and turn down Nanking 
Boad, and are soon walking by the houses of the Chinese, 
built close together on each side of the way. Every doorway 
and window is bright with the light of huge red candles, or 
red paper lanterns, while gold and silver "joss-paper" and 
brown "joss-sticks" burn slowly near by, throwing forth thick 
clouds of smoke, which the Joss of the moon can hardly 



YOKOHAMA TO SHANGHAI. 113 

consider a complimentary equivalent for the clear rays he is 
pouring over everything. Tire-crackers snap and fizz on all 
sides of us; the noise from cymbals, gongs, and drums is 
deafening; while every junk in the harbor, and every joss- 
house in the neighborhood is hung with red lanterns, — the 
color always used when " chin-chin-ing " a god. At an early 
hour, however, thin, hurrying clouds partially obscure the sur- 
face of the moon; in consequence of which the "chin-chin- 
ing" is to be continued and finished to-morrow evening. 

Before returning to the hotel we visit the Chinese theatre, 
and, passing through the doorway, are met by a servant, 
who leads us down the main aisle to one of several small 
tables near the stage, and, having seen us comfortably seated, 
leaves us, but returns soon with four large cups of tea, some 
dried seeds, and some cigar-lighters, all which he places 
before us, and then departs to perform a like service for a 
party of Chinese merchants, who have seated themselves at a 
neighboring table. The theatre is small, but well lighted; the 
stage is large, but the scenery consists simply of curtains, on 
which are painted Chinese inscriptions of varied import. A 
balcony runs round the upper part of the house. The play 
is similar to the one we witnessed at the Chinese theatre in 
San Francisco; and after spending some time in trying to com- 
prehend the plot, we are compelled to abandon the attempt, 
for the actions of the players are utterly unintelligible. Turn- 
ing now to the left, we all raise our teacups, and, in our 



114 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

turn, toast a fat old Chinaman with immense spectacles, who 
from a neighboring table has recognized Mr. Morse (a resi- 
dent of Shanghai), and has greeted him according to the 
custom of the country. Soon after this, the incessant noise 
from the gongs, drums, and cymbals of the orchestra (seated 
on the stage) induces us to make our way towards the door; 
but one of the ushers urges us so strongly to remain a little 
longer, "and see little boys makee fight," that we return to 
our seats. The "little boys" soon appear, dressed in fantas- 
tic costumes, representing dragons and devils, and, in the 
midst of flames of red fire, perform excellently with short 
sticks which they hold in their hands, — whirling them around 
their heads and about their bodies, and finally clashing them 
together. After this we leave the theatre and return to our 
hotel. 



SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 115 



CHAPTER VIII. 

SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 

Shanghai to Che-foo. — A Storm in the Gulf of Pe-chi-li. — Tien- 
tsin. — Overland to Pekin. — A Chinese Inn. — Arrival at the 
Capital. 

September IS. — At twelve o'clock, having left the larger 
portion of our baggage at the hotel to await our return, we 
go on board of the Shing King, which is to carry us to Tien- 
tsin. We find it a most excellent craft, built in Glasgow in 
1873, with very comfortable cabin arrangements, and, as we 
are the only passengers, we have the whole boat to ourselves. 
We have the further good fortune to be in the charge of a cap- 
tain who is as sincerely liked as he is widely known, — Captain 
Hawes of Searsport, Maine. Always on the lookout for the 
comfort of passengers, ready at all times for a story or a laugh, 
and, above all, zealous in the performance of every part of his 
profession, they are lucky, indeed, who come under his care. 

At two o'clock the Shing King leaves her moorings and 
glides rapidly down the river. We pass another steamer of 
Eussell's line coming up, whose captain gives us the gratifying- 
news that " it 's blowing guns outside." In spite of this, how- 
ever, we continue on our way, reach the light-ship at six o'clock, 
and are once more navigating the Yellow Sea. 



Il6 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

September 16. — The sea to-day is as calm as can be desired, 
and the hours pass quickly. A bright moon lights us on our 
way at night. 

September 17.- — At five o'clock this morning South Promon- 
tory is seen far ahead, and, after passing it in due time, our 
course lies all day within sight of various islands, uninhabited 
and desolate. At 8 p. m. we reach Black Eock, — ten miles 
from Che-foo, — and, having passed round the lighthouse, are 
soon making our way among the shipping, native and for- 
eign, anchored off the town. At ten o'clock we drop our an- 
chor, and two long whistles announce the steamer's arrival. 

Che-foo is the summer habitation and watering-place of the 
foreign residents of Shanghai and Pekin. It is situated at the 
head of a beautiful harbor, has a fine beach, and a good hotel. 
Vessels of war find good anchorage here, and in 1860 the French 
fleet made it a rendezvous. The United States man-of-war 
Kearserge lies at anchor near our steamer, and several other 
gun-boats — French, English, and Dutch — are in the vicinity. 

September 18. — As our steamer is to leave at nine o'clock, 
we breakfast early and go immediately ashore, taking our Chi- 
nese servant (whom we obtained in Shanghai) as our guide. 
We walk through the streets of the native town, narrow, dirty, 
and full of the horrible odors which always pervade the habi- 
tations of these people. The men are dressed in the same 
pij amah-like costume that we observed on their fellow-coun- 
trymen in San Francisco. All wear the cue. The women are 



SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 1 17 

very plain and unattractive. Their garments are exceedingly 
unbecoming, and their poor little feet oblige them to hobble 
along as if walking on sticks of wood whittled down to a point. 
A half-hour's survey of this place is quite sufficient, and, hav- 
ing returned to the Shing King, we see the town disappear in 
the distance with no great regret. Our passenger-list is in- 
creased by two, — Colonel Eli Shepherd, United States consul 
at Tien-tsin, returning to his official residence, and an English 
merchant bound to Pekin on business. At three o'clock we 
pass the numerous islands which divide the Yellow Sea from 
the Gulf of Pe-chi-li, and are glad to find calm water in this 
place so noted for rough weather. 

September 19. — At five o'clock this morning I am awakened 
by a confused noise, and, starting up in my berth, I see that 
the walls of my state-room are illuminated with a strange, 
dull light, entirely dissimilar to the beams from an ordinary 
sunrise. Going quickly through the cabin to the gangway, I 
find the majority of the passengers intently watching a spot 
in the heavens from whence a heavy squall is rushing rapidly 
upon us. The sun has just risen above the horizon, and its 
clear rays mingling with the sudden blackness cause the 
curious light I noticed on the walls of my state-room. Furi- 
ous gusts of wind soon break full upon us, lashing the sea 
into angry waves. Little by little the darkness increases, the 
sun is blotted out, and we might almost suppose it was mid- 
night. We are directly opposite the bar at the entrance 



Il8 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

to the Peiho Piiver, — a dangerous and difficult place in which 
to navigate in a storm. The captain, seeing that it is impos- 
sible for the steamer to make any headway, decides to anchor 
till the squall has passed, when we may take a pilot and 
ascend the river. As he is leaving the wheel-house to give 
the order to drop the anchor, a fierce blast lifts him from 
his feet, and sweeps him across the deck. Fortunately he 
grasps the railing, and, clinging to it with all his strength, 
is saved. His loud cries to the sailors near the anchor to 
" Let go ! " " Let go ! " the whistling of the wind through the 
rigging, and the creaking of the ship, — coming as all this does 
at such an early hour in the morning, — form an unpleasant 
opening to the day. By this time, however, the worst part 
of the storm has passed, and at nine o'clock the sun is shin- 
ing brightly, the sky is clear, and the sea calm. The bar 
at the mouth of the Peiho River must be passed at full tide; 
and, owing to delay on account of the storm, we are obliged 
to wait till four o'clock of the afternoon before proceeding on 
our way. When that hour arrives, having received our pilot, 
we resume our voyage, and, passing the Taku forts (near 
which the English and French Allies were temporarily de- 
feated in 1859-60),* we cross the bar, and begin the 



* The Allied fleets, under Admiral Hope, captured these forts August 21, 
1860. Commodore Tatnall, of the United States Navy, offered his assistance 
to the English, adding the well-known remark that "blood is thicker than 
water." 



SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 119 

ascent of the river. We wind slowly up the narrow and 
crooked stream, past frequent villages on either bank, with 
houses built entirely of mud, the buildings and people look- 
ing dirty, squalid, and miserable. In some parts of the river, 
the stream, always narrow, bends at right angles to itself; 
and as steamers are obliged to run along a narrow channel 
through lines of junks anchored on each side, — whose owners 
are always ready to stone any foreign craft that encroaches 
upon them, — great care is necessary to bring a vessel safely 
to Tien-tsin. It is very unusual for a captain to escape 
hitting one bank or the other in running from the bar to 
Tien-tsin; and after we have navigated half-way, without any 
such delay, and are congratulating ourselves on the probability 
of an uninterrupted passage, suddenly, having turned round 
a sharp bend, we drift a little too far, and in a moment 
more our steamer lies still, fast to the bank, with one paddle- 
wheel firmly imbedded in the mud of the bottom, and the-- 
bow pointing directly into a little village near by. A boat 
is lowered at once ; a long rope, with one end attached to- 
the bow of the steamer, is taken to the other bank; and by 
the united efforts of eight men we are drawn little by little 
into deep water. This occurs twice again before our arrival 
at Tien-tsin, but at 2 a. m. we are safely tied to the dock. 

September W. — Tien-tsin is situated on the south bank of 
the Peiho Eiver, and at the end of the Grand Canal. It is 
distant thirty-eight miles from the Taku forts, seven hundred 



120 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

and twenty-five from Shanghai, and eighty (as the crow flies) 
from Pekin. It contains two hundred thousand inhabitants, 
has a small foreign reservation, and, owing to its position on 
the Grand Canal, it receives immense quantities of merchan- 
dise destined for all parts of the Empire. Here, on June 21, 
1870, occurred the abominable massacre of the French nuns 
and priests, as well as the consul himself. For this, Lieuten- 
ant-General Chung-how was responsible. Although certain 
apologies were made by the Chinese government for the 
outrage, and an indemnity paid, yet the actual guilty parties 
have never been punished. 

The distance from Tien-tsin to Pekin — eighty miles by 
land and one hundred and twenty-five by water — can be 
accomplished in three ways. The traveller may engage a 
"house-boat," — a long, wide boat with a cabin, — and be 
rowed up the Peiho by coolies to Tung-chow, where donkeys 
can be obtained for the remaining fifteen miles of the jour- 
ney; or one may ride across the country on ponies, stopping 
over night at the native inns; or one may hire a Chinese 
cart — horribile dictu ! — and be driven to Pekin, which is 
sure to be reached, if travelling by this latter method, with 
scarcely a whole bone in one's body; for a Chinese road is 
only another name for a succession of deep ruts and a pro- 
fusion of stones; and while a pony may be made to avoid 
at least some of these obstacles, the carts, built without 
springs, are sure to jolt over them all. The pony has an ad- 



SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 121 

vantage over the boat, in going from Tien-tsin to Pekin; for 
while four or five days are required to push the boat up 
stream and for the traveller to afterwards ride from Tung- 
chow to the capital, the whole distance across country can 
be accomplished on horseback in two days by all who are 
accustomed to this method of locomotion. 

For these reasons we decide to travel on ponies, and im- 
mediately after breakfast this morning we go to the office of 
the American consul, who has kindly promised to engage 
ponies and carts for us, as well as two maftis (who corre- 
spond to the iettos of Japan) to act as guides and to take 
care of the horses. The carts are necessary to carry our mat- 
tresses, canned food, plates, knives and forks, etc. (for none 
of these things are found at the inns), and also countless 
strings of native copper coins, called " cash." The consul has 
also applied to the Tao-tai of the city for the necessary pass- 
port for our party. Having made arrangements to start at an 
early hour on the morrow, we are kindly invited to tiffin 
by Mr. J. Twinem, commissioner of customs for the Chinese 
government, to whom we have a letter of introduction. Lunch 
over, we mount ponies, and in company with Mr. Twinem 
and an English merchant, ride outside of the city to the 
"Treaty Joss-House," or "Hai Quang Tsu," where the treaty 
between the Allies and the Chinese w T as signed in 1860 by 
Lord Elgin and Prince Kung. Besides the usual large idols, 
there are many small ones, formed of a sort of clay, and 



122 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

grotesquely painted, which are placed round the room at the 

feet of the larger deities. Calling an aged priest aside, F 

and I exhibit small silver coins, and, pointing at a little joss 
near by, demand "two piecee god all same like that." The 
priest, making sure that we are. unobserved, thrusts our 
money under his cloak, and, snatching two of the gods from 
their places, hands them to us, and we quickly put them out 
of sight. On our return to the city, Mr. Twinem insists, with 
great hospitality, upon our dining with him. At the conclu- 
sion of the dinner he introduces us at the foreign club, 
where we meet an officer of an English gun-boat (lately 
arrived at Tien-tsin), who gives us information which rather 
discourages our intended overland trip to Pekin. 

In the summer of 1874 Augustus Eaymond Margary, a 
young and promising member of the China consular service, 
was sent from Pekin by the British Minister with a special 
passport, to meet a small embassy, under the leadership of Colo- 
nel Horace Browne, which had been ordered by the govern- 
ment of India to proceed into Yiin Nan, crossing the frontier 
from the Burmese side. Though frequently molested along the 
road, as his published journal attests, Margary joined Colonel 
Browne in safety at Bhamo. " The mission had entered China, 
and was but a short distance from Manwyne, when Mr. Mar- 
gary pushed on (alone) to that town. He had passed a -week 
in it on his journey southward. At Manwyne, according to 
testimony too strong to be doubted, he was murdered on the 



SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 1 23 

21st of February. An attack was made on the following morn- 
ing on Colonel Browne's party, which, however, after a sharp 
struggle, was enabled to draw off without serious loss."* 

Ever since poor Margary's death, the British Minister at 
Pekin has continually pressed the Chinese government for 
reparation ; and although many promises have been made, the 
Chinese are apparently determined not to consent to the full 
demands of the English. Matters, however, have now reached 
a crisis. The English Minister, wearied and annoyed with the 
procrastination, has formally notified the Chinese government 
that the 22d of September will be the last day he shall allow 
them for consideration; and if they have not acceded to his 
terms by that time, he shall withdraw his legation from the 
capital and shall consider friendly negotiations at an end. 
Moreover, the English admiral (in whose fleet our informant 
is stationed) has been requested by Mr. Wade to hold several 
ships-of-war in readiness off Tien-tsin, either to receive him on 
his arrival at the coast, or, in case of extreme necessity, to 
march the men across country to his relief. 

Such is the political state of the country through which we 
are about to travel. As the common people do not distinguish 
between English and Americans, both being obnoxious "for- 
eign devils," our reception in the different villages is likely to 
be rather inhospitable. The English naval officer even counsels 
us to abandon the expedition, and urges us not to expose our- 

* See Preface to Margary's Journal. 



124 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 







selves unnecessarily to danger or insult. On the other hand, 
we have made all our preparations to go ; our party, including 
guides, hostlers, and servant, numbers nine persons ; we possess 
passports from the Tao-tai of Tien-tsin, giving us full permission 
to travel to Pekin (and beyond, to the Great Wall), and warn- 
ing all Chinamen against molesting or hindering us ; we hold 
letters of introduction to three ministers at the capital, — the 
American, the English, and the German; furthermore, the 
Chinese may yield at the last moment to the demands of 
the English, tranquillity may be restored, and the threatened 
troubles averted. We cannot give up our visit to Pekin ! We 
will start as planned! 

September 21. — At six o'clock we despatch the carts (con- 
taining our baggage, food, mattresses, etc.) in charge of our 
servant, and we ourselves start soon after on ponies, our mafus 
leading the way. Passing through the native city as quickly 
as possible (for the dirt and odors are sickening), we strike 
across a barren plain covered with innumerable graves, — little 
conical heaps of earth and bricks which cover the coffins (laid 
on the surface of the ground) from sight. These curious graves 
may be seen in the vicinity of every city and along almost 
every road in China. As we wish to reach Pekin in two days, 
we must accomplish forty miles each day. We ride along at 
a steady, brisk gait, for several hours. The country is culti- 
vated only in the vicinity of wretched mud-villages scattered 
here and there, and everything about us looks neglected and 



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SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 12$ 

desolate. At noon we reach the town of Yang-tsin, distant 
twenty miles from Tien-tsin, and proceed slowly through the 
filthy streets on the lookout for a native inn where we may 
eat luncheon and give our horses a rest. The people gather 
on each side of the street in crowds to see us pass, gaze at us 
with intense curiosity, and make it evident that our appear- 
ance causes them great amusement. When we have arrived 
at the inn and have dismounted, they press round us from all 
sides, examine and criticise the texture of our clothes, look 
wonderingly at our shoes and hats, and finally burst into a 
loud laugh at our general aspect.* Leaving Yang-tsin imme- 
diately after lunch, we continue our journey, and after much 
delay, on account of a rise of the Peiho, which has overflowed 
the usual track and which obliges us to make a long detour, 
and after a half-hour's chase for the runaway pony of one 
of our party who was unseated, we reach Ho-see-woo, our 
resting-place for the night, at eight o'clock, having accomplished 
forty miles since morning. Our carts arrive soon after, and, 
having made a very excellent supper of our canned food, and 
rice and eggs procured in the town, we stretch our mattresses 
on the brick congs, and, lying down in our clothes, are soon 
asleep, our long horseback ride proving a capital soporific. 

A Chinese inn is decidedly uninviting in its general out- 
ward appearance, and a closer acquaintance with its interior 
arrangements is scarcely more encouraging. A wall of mud 



* One man even tasted of one of our riding-gloves. 






126 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

and bricks, about eight feet high, shuts in the premises from 
the village street, and passing this you find yourself in a sort 
of quadrangle with low brick buildings on three sides, partly 
devoted to cattle and partly to men. Being a foreigner, you 
are met, on your arrival, by the proprietor, and, after exchanging 
most obsequious chin-chin-ings* you are led at once to the best 
room. This turns out to be a little chamber about fifteen by 
twenty feet, in which is a table, four chairs, and a brick cong, — 
a sort of platform, about six feet long and three feet high. 
Upon this you are to stretch your mattress, which (of course) 
you have brought with you. The very next partition to yours, 
possibly, may be a simple stall in which are quartered horses, 
mules, camels, or sheep ! The whole quadrangle is thus filled 
with men and beasts ; and early in the morning or at even- 
ing one may see an indiscriminate crowd of Chinese and Mon- 
golians, who, with their beasts, have just arrived or are pre- 
paring to depart. Eice, eggs, mutton, and tea may be obtained, 
but everybody brings food with them. In cold weather a sort 
of stove under each cong is filled with charcoal, and the bricks 
are comfortably warmed. The proprietors of the best inns place 
in their "foreigner's room" various pictures illustrating Chi- 
nese life, together with Confucian maxims painted in large 
red characters on long narrow strips of thick paper. The usual 
Chinese inn is dirty and thoroughly uncomfortable, and • a for- 

* The closed fists are placed together and raised up and down to correspond 
with low inclinations of the body ; the two men performing the ceremony look 
into each other's eyes and ejaculate, "Chin-chin!" 



SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 12J 

eigner is sure to have at least a quarter of the village sur- 
rounding his door from the first moment of his arrival, watch- 
ing his every movement, and gazing in deep astonishment at 
his peculiar method of conveying his food to his mouth. An 
empty bottle or sardine-box is highly prized, and a fierce 
wrangle is caused by tossing one out of the inn door. It was 
at Ho-see-woo, indeed, that we lost one of our forks, and, 
having sent our servant to inquire for it, we received the in- 
formation that the villagers, never having seen such an article 
before, wished to preserve it as a curiosity ! 

September 22. — It is impossible for a traveller to sleep un- 
interruptedly at a Chinese inn. From hour to hour one hears 
loud cries from men, shrill blasts of horns, the beating of 
drums, the explosion of fire-crackers, and a peculiar noise 
made by the town watchmen by striking together two sticks 
of wood. Chinamen delight in harsh sounds, and even in their 
daily occupations they roar and shout at one another as if 
they were all stone-deaf. Soon after daybreak, moreover, the 
whole inn is astir. The courtyard is filled with a crowd of 
men and beasts, and further sleep is out of the question. 

For these reasons we breakfast at sunrise, and have soon 
mounted our horses and are on our way. Our track lies, as 
yesterday, through a flat, uninteresting country, with squalid 
mud-villages here and there, and hundreds of graves heaped 
up along the road. We planned to lunch at Chang-chea-wang, 
half-way from Ho-see-woo to Fekin, but, owing to a delay of 



128 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

our carts, we are obliged to stop at a wretched village near 
by, where we make as short a stay as possible, and press on 
to our final destination. At two o'clock it begins to rain 
heavily, and we canter rapidly along, all of us soon being 
drenched to the skin. At half past three we reach a high 
nine -story pagoda, and a little farther on the road runs by 
several large monuments standing in a grove of tall trees. 
The houses increase in number as we advance ; many of them 
are far more solidly built than those in the villages through 
which we have been passing; in short, there is every indi- 
cation that we are approaching a large city. We enter now 
a broad road lined with trees, thronged with multitudes of 
people on horses or mules bound for Pekin ; while many carts, 
and quantities of coolies carrying burdens slung on poles, add 
to the general entanglement. At four o'clock we see far ahead 
of us, through the rain and mist, a high wall which looks like 
some strong fortification. Our mafic pauses for a moment in 
his rapid canter to point before him with his riding-whip 
and cry out, "Pa-ching!" (as the natives pronounce it,) and 
urging on our horses we soon arrive at the great outer wall, 
and at quarter to five we pass through the SJm-who-men, or 
Sha-who gate, and look with curiosity on all around us. We 
make our way along a broad street, once well paved with 
wide blocks of stone, but now full of holes and ruts. On 
each side of us is terrible waste, and filth of every descrip- 
tion ; the mud is a foot thick, the odors around us are various 



SHANGHAI TO PEKIN. 129 

and nauseating. Low houses are built on each side of the 
road, the doorways swarming with men, women, and children, 
who peer wonderingly at us as we go by. After riding for 
another mile we come to another wall, which divides the outer 
Chinese city from the Tartar city, and, passing under the Harto 
gate, we soon arrive at the French Hotel. We find, however, 
that the proprietor has recently died ; and as we are deliberat- 
ing what we shall do, a gentleman comes up and introduces 
himself (an attache of the German Legation), and kindly con- 
ducts us to the only good hotel in the city, a house kept by a 
German, called in Chinese Poo-Kwo-fan-tia. Here we are 
received ; but as the gates of the city are closed at sunset, our 
mafu tells us that our carts and baggage cannot enter till 
morning, so we are obliged to borrow garments of our land- 
lord. Afterwards we sit down to an excellent dinner, and 
converse with our host in regard to the probability of political 
disturbances in the city. We are somewhat alarmed when he 
informs us that he has made every preparation for a hasty 
flight. "The time is up to-day," says he, "for China's con- 
sideration of England's demands ; and as Mr. Wade will proba- 
bly be obliged to declare war, I have ready Chinese dresses 
for my wife and myself, and a ladder to scale yonder wall; 
for all foreigners will be regarded alike, and will be shut into 
the city and killed ! " We go to bed with the high Tartar 
wall in sight from our window, fully expecting to be murdered 
before morning in a sudden mel4c of native cut-throats. 



130 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER IX. 

PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 

Consultations with the Ministers. — Starting for the Great Wall. — 
The Bell Temple. — Wan-shou-san. — The Ming Tombs. — The Great 
Wall. 

September 23. — We are rejoiced to find ourselves awake 
and safe this morning, and immediately after breakfast we 
decide to seek, by means of our letters of introduction, some 
definite information in regard to the anticipated troubles. In 
order to reach the fountain-head, we will call first at the 
English Legation. Passing through several wide but dirty 
streets, we arrive at the grounds of the Legation, which are 
surrounded by a high wall. At the entrance-gate we are 
met by two native servants, dressed in the usual official 
livery (black cloaks and scarlet hats), who, taking our cards 
and the letter of introduction, request us to be seated till 
our names have been submitted to the minister. In a short 
time they return, and, bowing politely, invite us to enter. 
We follow them across a large, well-kept quadrangle, sur- 
rounded with neat-looking buildings, which vary in size and 
ornamentation. Approaching the largest and handsomest, we 
ascend a short flight of stone steps, and crossing a hall, enter 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 131 

a very wide, lofty apartment, richly furnished and adorned 
with various works of art. The servants motion ns to be 
seated, make low bows, and retire. In a moment there en- 
ters an elderly man, rather below the middle height, with an 
intellectual and careworn face, and restless, piercing eyes. 
This is His Excellency T. F. Wade, C. B * He greets us 
pleasantly, and after the usual commonplaces, we inquire if 
he thinks there will be any danger in a stay in Pekin, or, 
furthermore, in a journey inland to the Great Wall. "Al- 
though I cannot be interviewed on political matters at this 
time," replies Mr. Wade, laughingly, " I will say that you may 
anticipate no immediate danger; for, even if war is declared, 
several months will be required to put troops in the field, 
and long before serious hostilities have begun you will be 
out of the way." This diplomatic response, like a Greek 
oracle of old, while relieving our minds of much apprehension, 
does not entirely remove our uncertainty; but, after further 
conversation, we agree that it will be wisest to start for the 
Great Wall at once, and explore Pekin on our return. At 
this point Mr. Wade kindly offers to introduce us to a young 
member of his Legation, who is thoroughly posted in regard 
to the journey to the Great Wall; and we accompany the 
minister across the grounds to a neighboring building, where 
we are presented to Mr. Hillyar, who gives us full informa- 
tion in regard to the trip to the Wall, and advises us to 

* Now Sir Thomas Wade. 



132 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

start immediately. Before taking our leave, we are also in- 
troduced to Honorable Mr. Grosvenor. As the day is advan- 
cing, and we have other visits to make, we say farewell, 
promising to call on our return from the Great Wall. 

We now make our way to the German Legation, situated 
near by. Again we are received by neatly dressed servants, 
who conduct us through ample grounds to a well-furnished 
apartment. Minister Yon Brandt puts us at once at our ease, 
produces some Havana cigars (a great rarity in China), and 
advises us to set out promptly for the interior, and visit the 
points of interest in the city on our return. He lends us a 
book of very useful maps, and assures us that we are about 
to start on a trip of unusual interest ; he says, furthermore, 
that we need apprehend no immediate hostilities. We now 
take our leave, having accepted his kind invitation to dine 
with him at the Legation on our return. 

Passing now up the street and turning to the right, we 
arrive at the grounds of the American Legation, and halt, as 
before, at an outer gate. Instead of the well-dressed servants 
who met us at the other legations, we find, after some 
searching, two common coolies, in the usual unbecoming blue 
garments of their class. One of them receives our cards, and 
requests us to wait till he has presented them to Mr. Avery. 
We look about us. What a contrast to the embassies we 
have just quitted ! The buildings are low, poorly built, and, 
apparently uncomfortable. Absolute meagreness is called re- 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 133 

publican simplicity ! " Is it possible," says our English fellow- 
traveller, "that this is all your government can furnish to its 
representative in this great Empire ? " What can we reply ? 
We are sure the United States can take better care of its 
representative, but why it does not can only be answered by 
the politicians at Washington. 

The servant returns and asks us to follow him. Crossing 
the yard, we see Mr. Avery walking up and down in the 
sunshine. He advances, greets us politely, and invites us 
into his house. The room is small and scantily furnished. 
We consult him in regard to our proposed inland trip. He 
says we need anticipate no serious trouble, but advises us to 
avoid all roving bands of native soldiers, who care nothing 
for the laws of the country. Soon after, we rise to take our 
leave. "Gentlemen," says Mr. Avery, "I should like to ask 
you to dine with me, but I gave up entertaining some time 
ago. My salary, little enough before, as my surroundings indi- 
cate, is, I hear, to be still further diminished. If the sensible 
ones at Washington could look upon these places with their 
own eyes, I feel sure that the country would not allow us to 
be subjected to continual mortification." * 

Having returned to the hotel and deliberated, we decide to 
start for the Great Wall on the morrow, and explore Pekin 
on our return. 

* Mr. Avery died soon after. He is succeeded by Mr. Seward, late Consul - 
General at Shanghai. 



134 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

September %£. — We make an early start, having sent on 
our carts in advance. As we pass through the city, we meet, 
near the Imperial grounds, a mandarin riding along in his 
chair of state. Two horsemen, with great red plumes in 
their hats, lead the procession, and shout at the crowd to 
make way for their master. Then come six well-dressed 
servants bearing the old fellow's sedan-chair, in which we can 
see the official sitting at his ease, while two horsemen, dressed 
like the ones in advance, bring up the rear. On a cushion 
in front of the mandarin is his full-dress hat, with a red 
button on the top, indicating that he is of high rank, — for 
buttons of different colors belong to the various grades. When 
we are about three miles from Pekin, the horse of one of our 
party gives a sudden start and tosses his rider off his back. 
Away dashes the pony, and three of us after him, through 
gardens and fields, past houses, and across roads, our horses 
in pursuit seeming as eager to capture the runaway as we 
are ourselves. After a brisk half-hour's chase we succeed in 
grasping his bridle, and have hardly started again, when the 
pony which our servant is riding shakes him off, and we 
have another gallop longer than the first ; at the conclusion 
of which we push on as rapidly as possible towards the Bell 
Temple. A priest meets us at the gate, and crossing a court- 
yard, we enter the temple, where hangs the Great Bell, second 
largest in the world, — that at Moscow being its only supe- 
rior. This immense bell is eighteen feet high and thirty-six 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 1 35 

feet in circumference, and was cast A. D. 1400. It is covered 
all over with Chinese inscriptions referring to the circum- 
stances which caused its production, besides various sentences 
in praise of its guardian deity. 

From the Bell Temple we continue our way towards the 
ruins of the Summer Palace of the Emperors, called in Chinese 
Wan-shou-san.* This magnificent residence was destroyed by 
the Allies in 1860, in return for indignities offered by the Chi- 
nese to the English Minister, Sir Harry Parkes.-f" As we are 
crossing a little stream, not far from the ruins, the horse of 
the "unlucky one" of our party suddenly lowers his head to 
drink, — which causes his rider to slide gracefully to the 
ground. Off goes the pony, this time straight through a po- 
tato-field, two of us following at full gallop. The owner of 
the field — a tall Chinaman of forbidding aspect — rushes at 
us with uplifted hoe, motioning to us to go back. We gestic- 
ulate frantically towards our pony, now far ahead, quietly 



* I. e. Sans Soucis. 

+ "The rooms were completely filled with gold, silver, and bronze gods of 
gigantic dimensions (one of which, a Buddha, was seventy feet high) ; some 
were stored with bales of the finest silk fabrics. A sum of £32,000 was 
found in solid ingots of gold and silver, which gave each private in the Allied 
forces prize money to the amount of about £3 5 s. The French officers pre- 
sented to the Emperor, Empress, and Prince Imperial of France the whole 
of the most valuable articles which they carried off from the palace. A su- 
perb green jade baton, of great value, mounted with gold, was selected by 
Lord Elgin as a present to Queen Victoria ; and a similar one was likewise 
sent to the Emperor Napoleon." 



136 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

grazing on potato-heads, and, in spite of the native's threat- 
ening movements, do not pause till we hold the runaway 
securely by the rein. We now proceed without interruption 
to the ruins of the Summer Palace, and dismounting in the 
outer court-yard, now full of weeds and decay, we lunch 
near a marble gateway, in the midst of a half-circle of gaping 
Chinese, who watch our every motion with evident surprise 
and amusement. While sitting here we see a party of for- 
eigners galloping rapidly towards us. When they draw near 

and dismount, F and I are delighted to find that one of 

the number is a friend and fellow-citizen, — Mr. E. S. Eussell 
of Boston. Strange and enjoyable fortune, to meet a Bos- 
tonian in the interior of China ! 

Lunch over, we set out to explore the ruins, and pass first 
through a succession of gates, each shutting in what must for- 
merly have been beautiful pleasure-parks. Beyond these, we 
emerge on to a broad stone walk shaded by grand old trees, 
with a large pond on the left, full of lotos-flowers, over which 
is built a beautiful marble bridge. On our right hand are 
the ruins, extending to the top of a high hill, on the summit 
of which — its Imperial yellow roof and tiles glistening in 
the sun like gold — stands the only once-inhabited building 
that remains from the terrible desolation that was spread over 
the whole. 

The front of this structure contains innumerable little 
Buddhas, standing in niches very near together. The view 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. Itf 

from the top of the hill, where the building stands, is one of 
the finest in the vicinity of Pekin, and the varied prospect 
of lake, valley, and mountains must have pleased even an 
Emperor. Half-way down the hill, on the right-hand side, 
stands a beautiful bronze pagoda, which w T as untouched in 
the bombardment. It is at the base of the hill, between it 
and the lake, that the most evident traces of the destruction 
are to be seen. Here palace walls are crumbling to pieces, 
stone lions, bronze gods, and marble pagodas lie heaped in an 
indiscriminate mass, covered all over with fragments of the 
blue, yellow, and green bricks of which the royal buildings 
were mainly constructed. 

Leaving Wan-shou-san, we make our way slowly towards 
Hai-lung-tan, a town where we are to pass the night. At 
six o'clock we come in sight of a village built at the foot of 
a hill, on the summit of which is a picturesque temple with 
a yellow roof, — which indicates that the Emperors worship 
therein at certain seasons. We are informed that the joss- 
man of the temple has kindly offered us accommodations in 
the sacred precincts, and, having dismounted and " chin- 
chined" our host, we are shown to very comfortable quar- 
ters, — being the very room occupied by some of the official 
staff of the last Emperor during the royal visit. In company 
with the priest we visit the temple. Among the various ugly 
divinities enthroned herein is one — the god of war — of un- 
common hideousness. He holds a thick, knotted club in his 



138 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

hand, which we temporarily deprive him of and examine at 
our leisure. Leaving the temple, and retracing our steps 
through the grounds, we suddenly find ourselves on the bank 
of a clear, deep pond, and, having received permission from 
the joss-man, we enjoy a refreshing swim, to the great aston- 
ishment of a crowd of Chinese, who, apparently, feel sure 
that we are possessed of a devil. 

After supper, . about ten o'clock, F— — and the New- Yorker 
being asleep on their congs, I am sitting with my other com- 
panion, when our servant enters and informs us that the joss- 
man has received intelligence that a band of thieves from the 
village below are planning to fall upon us during the night, 
and the priest warns us to make preparations to defend our- 
selves. Our servant finishes the message with a word of ad- 
vice from himself, that we "better makee pistol all proper." 
Going into the next room, where our attendant sleeps, we find 
that he has determined not to be taken by surprise. He has 
erected a high barricade against the only door, formed of the 
various furniture of the apartment, and has placed his mat- 
tress near by, so that he may surely be aroused if the door 
is pushed open from without. Indeed, if the barricade is dis- 
turbed, it is highly probable that our faithful ally will be 
crushed to death. By his bed also are matches and a candle. 
Our door has no lock, and the windows are simple sheets of 
oiled paper. 

I approach the New-Yorker and inform him of Our threat- 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 1 39 

ened danger. He mutters something very uncomplimentary 
to the robbers, hands me his revolver, and turns over to con- 
tinue his nap. F ■ makes no sound. 

Ever since our departure from Tien-tsin, our English fellow- 
traveller has repeatedly informed us of a remarkable pistol 
which he is carrying. I now congratulate him on the oppor- 
tunity for employing it which has arrived. He removes it 
from its case, looks at it tenderly, and loads it. An expres- 
sion of admiration escapes our servant, who is looking on, and 
I almost fear that the tempting sight may cause him to join 
our expected foes. We have now made ample preparations, 
and are about to extinguish the lights, and follow the example 
of our other companions who are sleeping quietly, when we 
decide to question the servant a little more particularly. We 
summon him and submit him to a cross-examination. His 
answers, expressed in "pigeon-English," require some consid- 
eration, but his ideas are eventually conveyed to us. The 
message of the priest becomes now of a different import. He 
wished us to be informed that "a party of foreigners who 
lodged in our rooms two months ago were robbed by vil- 
lagers during the night." This intelligence modifies matters, 
and, having stretched ourselves on our congs, we are soon 
asleep. Quiet reigns throughout the premises, and we are 
undisturbed till morning. 

September 25. — The various temples or joss-houses in China 
belong, for the most part, to the Emperor. The joss-men are 



140 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

supported either by a direct salary from the government, or, 
as in the case of our host, by voluntary contributions from 
the people of the neighborhood. These joss-men are not al- 
lowed to marry, and are forbidden to eat certain articles of 
food ; but the joss-man of Hai-lung-tan was certainly not scru- 
pulous in regard to the strict performance of his vows. Not 
only did he make a hearty meal from the remnants of our 
supper and breakfast (smoking some of our cigars afterwards), 
but he even had the audacity to charge us a large price for 
our accommodations, — a " squeeze " which even our Chinese 
servant assured us was atrocious; for the buildings did not 
belong to him, and we brought along our own food. Having, 
therefore, paid him two thirds of his demand (presented with 
some unadulterated Americanisms), we continue our way. 

Our road lies over a flat, poorly cultivated country, with the 
usual mud-towns placed at certain intervals apart. We meet 
constantly small bands of common soldiers going towards Pekin, 
armed with long guns of very inferior construction. They stare 
at us insolently, but, remembering Mr. Avery's advice, we pay 
no attention to them. About noon we approach a village, built 
on the top of a hill, and drawing near (for our path runs 
through it), we see that the inhabitants are making great prep- 
arations to receive us. As we pass through the town in 
single file, the men cease their work, range themselves on* each 
side of the street, and, snatching up gongs, drums, and cym- 
bals, beat them furiously ; the little boys explode cannon- 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 141 

crackers ; and the women, hurrying to their doors with their 
children in their arms, burst into shrill peals of laughter at 
sight of the strangely dressed objects who are moving slowly 

t>y. 

We lunch at Cham-ping-chow,* one of the dirtiest and most 
squalid " cities " we have yet seen. A company of native 
cavalry are occupying the best inn, and we are obliged to dis- 
mount at an inferior one. We hurry off as soon as possible, 
and passing out of the city, make our way round a range of 
low hills, into a vast valley beyond. We see ahead of us sev- 
eral lofty buildings, standing, for the most part, at the base of 
the distant mountains, which enclose the other side of the 
plain. Proceeding across the plain, we come first to a marble 
gateway, ninety feet wide and fifty high, containing some fine 
bas-reliefs. Passing through this, we next reach a lofty brick 
arch with the Imperial yellow roof, and a little farther on, 
after crossing several marble bridges, now rapidly falling into 
decay, we emerge on to a broad stone avenue, on each side 
of which are colossal figures of blue marble. Two pairs of 
lions, unicorns, camels, horses, and elephants compose the 
group, all most finely carved, and next to these are ranged 
colossal priests, and warriors, some with huge swords, who 
seem to be guarding these precincts of the dead. The ele- 
phants are thirteen feet high and seven long ; and our horses, 
in turn, shy violently at sight of them. After passing over 

* Called by foreigners "Jumping Joe." 



142 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the long stone avenue, — which once must have been a grand 
approach, — we come to the tomb of Yung Lo, the founder of 
the Ming dynasty,* which stands in the centre, while the 
others stretch along the base of the mountain, on each side. 

The site of these Ming Tombs is exactly in accordance with 
the most approved principles of Feng-shui. To explain this, 
I will quote from a very interesting pamphlet which appeared 
recently in Hong Kong : f " The common people have the 
notion .... that the souls of their ancestors are by their 
animal nature chained, as it were, for some time to the tomb 
in which their bodies are interred, whilst by their spiritual 
nature they feel impelled to hover near the dwellings of their 
descendants; whence it is but a natural and logical inference 
to suppose that the fortunes of the living depend in some 
measure upon the favorable situation of the tombs of their 
ancestors. If a tomb is so placed that the animal spirit of 
the deceased supposed to dwell there is comfortable and free 
of disturbing elements, so that the soul has unrestricted egress 
and ingress, the ancestors' spirits will feel well disposed to- 
wards their descendants, will be enabled to constantly surround 
them, and willing to shower upon them all the blessings within 
reach of the spirit world. J . . . . Naturally, therefore, every 

* 1368-1628. 

+ Feng-shui ; or, The Rudiments of Natural Science in China. By Ernest 
J. Eitel, M. A., Ph. D., of the London Missionary Society. 

X "So deeply ingrafted is this idea of the influence of the dead upon the 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 1 43 

Chinaman takes the greatest pains to place the tombs of his 
relatives in such a situation, that no star or planet above, nor 
any terrestrial element below, no breath or subtle influence 
of nature, no ill-portending configuration of hills and dales, 
should disturb the quiet repose of the dead, for upon this de- 
pend the fortunes and misfortunes of the living. It is con- 
sequently important to know the rules by which the luckiest 

spot for a grave can be found There are in the earth's 

crust two different, shall I say magnetic currents, the one 
male, the other female; the one positive, the other negative; 
the one favorable, the other unfavorable. The one is allegori- 
cally called the azure dragon, the other the white tiger. The 
azure dragon must always be to the left, the white tiger to 
the right of any place supposed to contain a luck-bringing site. 
This therefore is the first business of the geomancer on looking 
out for a propitious site, to find a true dragon, and its com- 
plement the white tiger, both being discernible by certain 
elevations of the ground. Dragon and tiger are constantly 
compared with the lower and upper portion of a man's arm; 
in the bend of the arm the favorable site must be looked for. 
In other words, in the angle formed by dragon and tiger, in 

living, that Chinese wishing to get into the good graces of foreigners will 
actually go out to the Hong Kong cemeteries in the Happy Valley, and wor- 
ship there at the tombs of foreigners, supposing that the spirits of the dead 
there, pleased with their offerings and worship, would influence the spirits of 
the living, and thus produce a mutual good understanding between all the 
parties concerned." 



144 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the very point where the two (magnetic) currents which they 
individually represent cross each other, there may the luck- 
bringing site .... be found. I say it may be found there, 
because, besides the conjunction of dragon and tiger, there 
must be there also a tranquil harmony of all the heavenly 
and terrestrial elements which influence that particular spot, 
and which is to be determined by observing the compass and 
its indication of the numerical proportions, and by examin- 
ing the direction of the watercourses." 

The site of the Ming Tombs possesses the exact requisites 
declared above. The two chains of hills enclosing the valley 
form, by their junction, a complete horseshoe; and this spot, 
crossed by the two necessary magnetic currents representing 
the dragon and the tiger, was selected as thoroughly propitious 
for the interment of Imperial remains. 

Crossing now a court-yard, we enter a large chamber con- 
taining many pillars of teak-wood, each twelve feet in cir- 
cumference and thirty-two feet high. This room is two hun- 
dred and ten feet long and thirty wide. Passing through 
this, we cross another court-yard and enter the building which 
contains the bone of the illustrious Yung Lo. A colossal tor- 
toise, bearing on its back a tablet with inscriptions referring 
to the Ming dynasty and its founder, marks the spot where 
the remains are deposited. The whole place is neglected. A 
very garden is sprouting from the roof, the court-yard is full 
of coarse weeds, and only a few beggars, or a solitary mer- 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 1 45 

chant bound to Pekin, are to be seen in the vicinity. A more 
beautiful spot for an Emperor's cemetery could hardly be ob- 
tained. The wide valley, enclosed by high mountains, looks 
secluded and peaceful, and an air of rest and quiet seems to 
pervade the whole place. These Ming Tombs testify very un- 
favorably against the Chinese. The nation does not even 
preserve the grand works bequeathed to them by their ances- 
tors, but their fine roads and lofty buildings are suffered to 
fall into ruin and decay. They declare, however, that they 
are the only truly civilized race on the globe, and regard all 
others as "barbarians." 

As the tomb of Yung Lo is a type of the others, we strike 
across the plain towards Nan-kow, which we reach at sunset. 
Here we find the best inn we have thus far seen. The "for- 
eigner's room " is clean, and the walls are hung with pictures 
of Chinese life and moral maxims of Confucius. It is true 
that a drove of sheep are quartered in the very next partition 
of the building, but to this we are accustomed. Our landlord, 
a fat, jolly-looking Chinaman, meets us on our arrival, offers 
us his snuff-box, and "chin-chins" us till he grows weary. 
As he understands no English, we address him as "Kofooz- 
leum," — which seems to please him greatly. 

September 26. — The Great Wall is met at a distance of 
fifteen miles from Nan-kow, at the end of a pass of the same 
name. The pass is so rocky that the distance must be accom- 
plished on donkeys. Soon after breakfast we mount these 



146 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

patient animals, and start on our way, intending to return to 
Nan-kow for the night. Passing through the town we ride 
under the great gate which marks the opening of ISTan-kow 
Pass. The structure contains, on each post, some fine carving. 
Prom here our path lies over stones and rocks and across 
streams ;* here, too, we meet frequently long lines of ladened 
camels, coming from Mongolia or going thither, with an armed 
man in front and in the rear. Large flocks of black-headed 
sheep pour over the road, plunging through rivulets and across 
stones, and creating great confusion. Several mule-litters — a 
sedan-chair carried by mules — go by, bound for Pekin, with 
indolent-looking Chinamen stretched at their ease within, 
while innumerable donkeys and mules and vast droves of 
horses increase the general disorder. At the foot of a precip- 
itous spur of the mountain we see a woman kneeling on the 
ground, bending herself to and fro, sobbing, and wringing her 
hands, and pouring out a wild lament in a piteous voice, 
which echoes from hill to hill. On inquiry, we are told that 
she has recently become a widow, and is mourning at her hus- 
band's grave, according to the custom of her country. Along 
the pass are built little joss-houses, before which are hung 
gongs which the priests strike on the approach of a traveller, 
who is expected to contribute a few "cash," in return for a 
prayer offered for his safety. 

* "Genghis Khan followed it when he invaded China." — Baron Hubner. 



PEKIN TO THE GREAT WALL. 147 

After riding about four hours, we emerge from the pass, 
and soon arrive at the Great Wall, which stretches over the 
hills far off into the distance. At certain intervals steps lead 
up to the top. The wall is about forty feet high and twelve 
feet wide. It is built of a hard gray stone. Against modern 
artillery it would be of little avail, but at the time of its con- 
struction it must have been, if well defended, a serious obstacle 
to an opposing band. The wall was begun b. c. 200. It is 
about twelve hundred miles long, and surmounts the highest 
and most inaccessible peaks in the vicinity. 

We lunch, sitting on the summit; the view on all sides is 
superb. Along the high mountains, stretching away into the 
distance, can be distinguished the thin gray line of the wall. 
On the plain below, a long procession of heavily loaded cam- 
els is winding slowly on, the shouts of the drivers echoing 
through the hills. Except this, all is quiet and still. Before 
us is an Asiatic picture which will never be effaced from our 
minds. 

We retrace our steps through the pass and arrive back at 
Nan-kow at 6 p. m. 

September #7. — We return to Pekin, stopping, on our way, 
to see the Llama pagoda, situated about two miles from the 
Chaen-men gate, which is the finest piece of sculpture in the 
vicinity of the city. 



148 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER X. 

PEKIN. 

The City. — The Llama Temples. — The Temple of Heaven. — Curio 
Street. — The Imperial College and Observatory. — The Marble 
Bridge. — The Roman Catholic Cathedrals. 

September 28. — The city of Pekin* possesses three walls. 
The outer wall encloses the Chinese city; the second divides 
off the Tartar city; and lastly, there is the Imperial wall, 
which shuts in the Yellow City, — the residence of the Em- 
peror, the Son of Heaven. * Foreigners are allowed to visit 
certain parts of the Yellow City, but only the highest ambas- 
sadors are suffered, at stated times, to pass through the royal 
gateway and cross the long avenue which leads to the Hall 
of Audience. The streets of Pekin are unusually wide for a 
Chinese city; and if it were not for the total absence of 
sewers, and the abominable habits of the people, who have 
no idea of decency or cleanliness, the pure air from the 
neighboring hills would render it quite a desirable residence. 
As it is, every street is full of mud and shocking waste; 

* It is impossible to state the population of this city. Of one fact I am 
sure; the "3,000,000" of the geographies is an absurdity. It is doubtful if 
the number reaches 1,200,000. 



PEKIN. 149 



deep ruts, which grow worse daily, nearly swallow up all 
carts that jolt over them; and in spite of fresh breezes, the 
odors from all points are sickening and almost unendurable. 

We start this morning to visit the great Llama temples, 
where Buddha is worshipped by fifteen hundred resident 
priests. The buildings, situated near the Custom House, are 
fully two miles from our hotel, and, as the day is very warm, 
we engage carts, and sitting forward on the shafts (where the 
least jolting is felt), we are bumped along the Harto-men Street, 
through a wondering crowd who stare at us as we go by. 
When we have accomplished about a mile, we meet a long 
funeral procession. The dead man was a rich merchant, and 
his wealth and importance are attested by the vast number 
that are following his remains to the grave. One hundred 
men, walking two by two, lead the way, dressed in full 
mourning garments of white, and bearing in their hands tall, 
broad wands, painted red and covered with inscriptions. Then 
follow ten men bearing the body on a litter, over which is a 
handsome canopy. The body itself is protected by a richly 
embroidered cloth, which falls in graceful folds around it. 
The procession is closed by another hundred men dressed in 
white, some carrying banners and others gongs, drums, and 
cymbals, with which to mark time for the whole. The Chi- 
nese consider themselves polluted if they have any contact 
with a corpse, even so much as touching the litter on which 
it is lying. On this account, all the dead are carried to the 



150 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

grave by men whose caste or calling is not held respectable, 
— the beggars, the barbers, and the offal-carriers. The richest 
prince is thus often borne to his last resting-place by 
beggars. 

On our arrival at the wall which surrounds the temple 
grounds we pass through a gate, and are met in the court- 
yard by a priest in long yellow garments, who is to serve as 
guide. We are very glad to find that we have arrived at 
service-time; and on approaching one of the buildings, we 
hear a noise like the loud buzzing of countless swarms of 
bees, and looking into the temple we discover the cause. 
About three hundred priests,* with long yellow robes and 
shaved heads, are seated on wooden benches, facing a large, 
richly decorated altar, before which an elderly priest is stand- 
ing, and chanting a prayer to the accompaniment of a gong; 
the others repeating it after him in a loud chorus, at the 
same time passing their hands over strings of curiously carved 
beads, which they wear round their necks. At the conclusion 
of the prayer they all rise, and putting on their heads tall 
yellow hats, pour into another temple to perform another 
portion of their daily devotion. We find that this temple 
(which they have just left) contains large collections of valu- 
able articles, — rich carpets, gold, silver, and bronze vessels, 
fine carvings, and costly tapestries. In a neighboring building 
is a great wooden figure of Buddha, seventy-five feet high, 

* Moguls. 



PEKIN. ISI 



and twenty feet across the chest. Near by, some priests are 
chanting a song to their god, and one magnificent bass voice 
rings out above all the others.* After taking a cup of tea 
with the priests, we return to our quarters for tiffin, as we 
plan to visit, or attempt to visit, the Temple of Heaven this 
afternoon. 

The Temple of Heaven (where the Emperor worships at a 
certain time of the year) is not open to foreigners, but many, 
through bribery, corruption, or force, gain admittance. "With 
our landlord (who speaks Chinese fluently), we start soon after 
lunch, and passing out of the Chaen-men gate, and crossing the 
"Beggars' Bridge," are soon in sight of the temple wall. As 
we walk along I hear for the first time the epithet hong hueitzu 
(foreign devils) applied to us; and from this and other little 
occurrences, our landlord assures us that the crowd know per- 
fectly where we are going, and will probably do all they can 
to hinder us. By this time we are near the temple gate, and 
a multitude of men and boys are following steadily behind us ,- 
suddenly one starts ahead, reaches the temple gate before us y 
says something rapidly to the gate-keepers, and disappears. 
We make a rush forward (for we know he has given warning 
of our approach), but too late; the heavy doors swing to- 
gether, the interior bolts are shot into their sockets, and our 
further advance is checked. The crowd, which has rapidly 

* We afterwards heard that this man's voice is famous throughout the 
city. 



152 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

increased, raise a shout of derision, and evidently consider our 
repulse but another evidence of the inferiority of the "barba- 
rians." Our landlord cannot contain himself. Pouring forth 
a volley of abuse in Chinese (which evidently surprises them), 
he seizes a short stick, and, grasping the nearest native by 
his cue, he thrashes him till he howls for mercy. Matters 
now begin to look serious. The natives, incensed at the treat- 
ment of their comrade (for which act our landlord could be 
summoned before his minister), pick up stones * from the street, 
and mass themselves together more compactly. The New- 
Yorker, with complacency, lays his hand on a pocket in his 
vest from which a small loaded pistol protrudes. Our land- 
lord is determined not to be outdone. He hurries us rapidly 
along till we arrive at a part of the wall where some bricks 
have fallen out, and where it can easily be scaled. In turn 
we scramble up, and drop down into the park beyond. Our 
difficulties are not yet over. In the distance, across the park, 
we see another high gate tightly closed. Having arrived there, 
however, we hold a long parley with the keeper, who consents 
to admit us for a silver dollar. The second obstacle is thus 
surmounted, but still another gate remains. Through the crev- 
ices we can plainly see the blue roof of the temple. A half- 
dollar, thrust under the sill, causes the heavy doors to swing 

* Only three weeks previously, Dr. Bushell and his wife, of the English 
Legation, while walking quietly by this very spot, were severely stoned by 
the populace. 



PEK1N. 153 



inwards; we cross a grass-plot, ascend some beautiful marble 
steps, and see the hidden building before us. 

The Temple of Heaven is a pagoda-like structure, covered 
with blue tiles. Three umbrella-like roofs rise, one above 
another, from the blue walls below. These walls are elabo- 
rately sculptured and enamelled, and are inlaid with glass- 
work. Three white marble terraces, finely carved, surround 
it. Near by are three large bronze vessels, in which the papers 
of criminals of high rank are burned. Behind, is the spot 
where cattle are slaughtered for the yearly sacrifice, performed 
by the Emperor after worshipping in the temple. 

The door is bolted, but we can easily look in through the 
windows. No idols of any sort are to be seen. The interior 
pillars and wood-work are solid but plain. Once a year in 
this place he who calls himself Euler of Earth bows down 
before the Sovereign of Heaven. 

"We leave the temple and retrace our steps, expecting to 
find the gates closed upon us, but, apparently, our unceremo- 
nious entrance has so astonished the natives, that they are" 
glad to get rid of us. We return to the hotel unmolested. 

September £9. — We spend the morning in Curio Street, 
examining different articles for which Pekin is noted, — fine 
cloisonne* work, and beautiful devices of jade-stone; ivory 
carvings, bronzes, and old porcelain, and great varieties of 
fine furs, which are brought principally from Siberia. The 
lacquer-work does not compare favorably with the Japanese. 



154 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

The prices asked are ridiculously exorbitant, and the purchaser 
must make a reasonable offer and hold to it firmly. 

In the afternoon I present a letter of introduction to Eev. 
William Blodget, a leading Protestant missionary, who, with 
his wife, has resided in Pekin for many years. I pass a 
pleasant half-hour, and promise to lunch with them before 
my departure. 

September 30. — We go this morning to pay another visit 
to the English Legation. Mr. Hillyar congratulates us on 
our good fortune at the Temple of Heaven, telling us that a 
friend of his, who recently obtained admittance to the grounds, 
with his wife, was Tshut in, on returning, by the keeper of the 
outer gate, who stubbornly refused to allow the "barbarians" 
to pass ; and it was only when a loaded pistol was held close 
to his head, that the native changed his mind. 

In regard to political matters the Chinese are again tem- 
porizing. Prince Kung has agreed to furnish special and 
extraordinary passports to three Englishmen who will proceed 
to Yun Nan, and, after investigating the entire circumstances 
of the murder, will join with a Chinese commission in mak- 
ing a formal report to both governments. The Honorable Mr. 
Grosvenor is the chief of the English commission, and, in 
company with the others, is to start at once for Shanghai. 
All danger of immediate hostilities is therefore at an end. 

In the afternoon we receive a visit from Mr. E. S. Eussell 
of Boston, who is about to start for the Great Wall. 



PEKIN. 155 



October 1. — We visit this morning the old Observatory 
and Imperial College, erected under the directions of the 
Jesuits in A. D. 1279. The Observatory is built on the City 
Wall, and the College near by in the city below. Some of the 
bronze astronomical instruments are of elaborate and exquisite 
construction. The entire premises have been unused for years. 

From here we proceed through the city back to the hotel. 
It is nearly one o'clock, and I am due at the Blodgets'. Ar- 
rived there, I am cordially welcomed, and, after lunch, Mr. 
Blodget conducts me to his church, and relates many inter- 
esting anecdotes, and gives me much useful information in 
regard to his long labors among the natives. In the church 
(which is open through the day) we see a converted China- 
man (a member of the church) lecturing to a little knot of 
his fellow-countrymen, who are gathered around him ; and I 
cannot help noticing the expression of the lecturer's counte- 
nance. Instead of the careless insolence which is generally 
stamped on the faces of the Chinese, the speaker has a look 
of quiet manliness and serenity which is unusual. 

At 7 P. M. (preceded by our servant with a lantern) we pick 
our way carefully through the horrible streets till we arrive 
at the German Legation. We are met, as usual, by a polite 
servant, who receives our wraps, and announces us to the 
minister. Dinner is served immediately. Six or seven gen- 
tlemen of the legation are at table. All talk English fluently, 
and the charming manners of our host puts us thoroughly at 



156 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

ease. The lofty dining-room itself in which we are sitting is 
not unworthy of its cultivated possessor. A heavy carpet is 
on the floor, the table is adorned with costly silver and glass ; 
and behind the minister, on the wall, a large and valuable 
collection of Japanese and Chinese daggers and swords is 
tastefully arranged. Noiseless servants quickly remove the 
courses, each of which is a triumph of culinary art. In short, 
we have stepped from the discomforts of a people of the past 
into the luxuries of modern society. Beyond the threshold 
is neglect and decay; within, is order, refinement, and pro- 
gression. 

After dinner, we adjourn to a large parlor adjoining. Prom 
all foreigners that I have met in Pekin I hear one unvary- 
ing complaint. " The discomforts of the city," they say, " we 
can endure; but the lack of polished society is keenly felt." 
Besides the dreadful uncleanliness, however, the climate, ex- 
cept during the month of October, is disagreeable and an- 
noying. In November, December, January, and February a 
little snow falls, which, however, is quickly removed by a 
cutting northeast wind, which blows continually at this 
season. In the spring the dust is overpowering; and the 
heat in summer is only tempered by heavy rains, which form' 
long avenues of deep mud. 

By the kindness of the minister, a servant with a huge 
paper lantern conducts us back to our lodgings. 

October 2. — We are to devote this morning to an inspec- 



PEKIN. 157 



tion of the Emperor's marble bridge and the Koman Catholic 
cathedrals. The marble bridge spans a wide stream, running 
close to the Imperial buildings, full of lotos-flowers and great 
masses of decaying weeds and general rottenness. With 
proper care, this rivulet might be kept clear and fresh, and 
such was undoubtedly the intention of the Emperor, who 
planned the surrounding pleasure parks and grounds, but it 
is neglected, along with so much else in China. 

From here we proceed to the new Eoman Catholic Cathe- 
dral. It is a large, handsome edifice, and testifies favorably 
to the result of the labors of the Catholic missionaries. An 
extensive ornithological museum is attached to a school for 
natives, which is conducted by the priests. The old church, 
which we next visit, is smaller than the new, but it contains 
a tablet, erected on the back of a large stone tortoise, on 
which is an inscription in Chinese, placed there by an old 
Emperor, which commands the citizens to spare this building, 
even if the rest of the city is destroyed. 

Towards sunset we ascend to the top of the Tartar "Wall 
to see the sun disappear behind the distant hills. At our 
feet lies the city, teeming with life, and the eye can roam 
over the multitudes of buildings stretching far away in every 
direction. The beams of the setting sun are shining full on 
the Imperial palaces, which, with their yellow roofs, glitter 
like gold. Flocks of carrier-pigeons, with tinkling bells tied 
to their wings, wheel round and round over our heads, and 



158 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the various sounds of the city below come up to us pleas- 
antly from afar. At last the sun sinks down behind the 
hills, long lines of men and animals pass in through the 
closing gates, and taking a last look around us, — for we 
have planned to leave Pekin on the morrow, — we descend 
to the street and return to our hotel. 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 1 59 



CHAPTER XI. 

PEKIN TO CANTON. 

Return to Shanghai. — Amoy. — Canton. — Buddhist Temples and other 
Objects of Interest. 

October 3. — At half past seven this morning, having placed 
our baggage in carts and obtained donkeys for ourselves, we 
bid farewell to Pekin and start for Tung-chow. We have 
decided to return to Tien-tsin by boat; for, dropping down 
the river with the current, the distance to Tien-tsin (one 
hundred and twenty-five miles) is easily accomplished in two 
days, and is, of course, far less fatiguing than the long horse- 
back ride. We reach Tung-chow at noon, and find that our 
servant, whom we sent on ahead, has already engaged a " house- 
boat," and four men who are to row us down stream. We 
start immediately, and having skirted the town, are soon glid- 
ing along through a flat, thinly cultivated country, while the 
measured sound of the oars alone breaks the silence around 
us. 

These " house-boats " contain a sort of cabin, in which four 
persons can sleep, and in another part of the boat is a small 
kitchen, which our servant superintends. The crew disappear 
at night into a locker in the bow. They have solemnly prom- 



160 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

ised us to work, in turn, through the night; at 2 A. M. I am 
awakened by loud, confused shouts. Starting up, I find that 
our craft is tied securely to the bank of the river, and the 
crew are nowhere to be seen. The New-Yorker is calling 
fiercely to our servant, who, in turn, delivers our complaints 
to the half-unconscious crew down below. At last three of 
them appear, and, receiving a fresh volley of abuse with 
Oriental stolidity, they untie the boat and work steadily till 
morning. 

October 5. — We reach Tien-tsin at seven o'clock this morn- 
ing, and find the steamer Shing King lying at her moorings, 
ready to start on the morrow. We go at once on board, and 
are delighted to be again in charge of Captain Hawes. 

October 6. — We start at ten o'clock. Among the passengers 
are the English Commission, who are bound to Ytin Nan via 
Shanghai, to inquire into the circumstances of Margary's death. 
The Honorable Mr. Grosvenor (whom we met in Pekin) is 
the chief, and to him I owe much information in regard to 
the curious people in whose country we are travelling. Our 
fellow-citizen, Mr. K. S. Eussell, is also on board. 

October 7. — We arrive at Che-foo at 10 A. M., and remain 
till afternoon. We are joined here by several passengers, 
among whom is Mr. William M. Evarts, Jr., of New York. 

October 9. — At eight o'clock this evening we come in sight 
of Shanghai, after a smooth and pleasant run from Che-foo. 
As we move slowly up the river, the bright lights, along the 



PEKIN TO CANTON. l6l 

" Bund " and in the various residences make us almost be- 
lieve that we are approaching a city of our own land. 

October 13. — Ever since our start we have planned to go 
from Shanghai to Foo-chow, and thence to Canton and Hong 
Kong. We have several letters of introduction to Foo-chow, 
and wish especially to make the acquaintance of Commis- 
sioner Drew, a Harvard graduate, who has been in the em- 
ploy of the Chinese government for twelve years. We find, 
however, that we shall be unable to make satisfactory connec- 
tions with the steamers for Hong Kong, and we are therefore 
obliged to give up a visit to Foo-chow. As we wish to reach 
India during the Prince of Wales's visit (and have much to 
see on the way), we decide to take passage on a steamer 
which is to start for Canton to-morrow at daybreak, and we 
are therefore compelled to leave undelivered several letters 
of introduction to people in Shanghai. 

At midnight we go on board the steamer Glengyle, bound 
for Amoy and Canton. The Glengyle is a fine vessel of 
thirteen hundred and seventy-five tons, and, with wind and 
tide in our favor, we move rapidly down the Wang-poo Eiver 
and enter once more the Yellow Sea. Only three passengers 
besides ourselves are on board. 

October 16. — At daybreak this morning we are off Amoy. 
On our left we can dimly see Formosa. Around us are a 
score of swiftly sailing junks, whose piratical owners are 
always on the lookout for disabled vessels, which they plun- 



162 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

der without mercy. Indeed, our captain tells us that we are 
in the most dangerous waters of the Chinese seas. The course, 
he says, is but imperfectly marked on the chart ; hidden rocks 
abound, and the various pirate-junks, for which the region is 
noted, are perpetually hovering in the neighborhod. If a 
steamer strikes a rock, the passengers are often obliged to 
fight their way ashore. 

We change our course and approach Amoy. On our right 
is the reef of rocks where the steamer Hector was wrecked 
a few weeks before, and we can plainly see the remains of the 
deck rising above the waves. We come to anchor between 
the native town of Amoy and the little island Koo-lum-soo, 
where the foreign population dwell. 

Amoy is a picturesque place, containing, however, but little 
of interest to the traveller. It is distant five hundred miles 
from Hong Kong, and contains a small foreign population 
and about two hundred thousand natives. 

We go ashore and make our way through the dirty streets 
to the custom-house, where we find Mr. Spinney (a recent 
Harvard graduate), who is employed by the Chinese govern- 
ment. Afterwards we obtain a guide and walk about the 
city. Amoy is by far the dirtiest place we have yet seen. 
The natives are quite different in appearance from their coun- 
trymen in the North. They wear heavy turbans, which give 
them a fierce, piratical look. Here one may buy necklaces 
and bracelets, exquisitely carved from olive-stones. A stranger 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 163 

should, however, invariably refuse the specimens first offered 
in the shops, as the best goods are only brought out when 
the inferior are rejected. Here, too, are lace and silk factories, 
and large quantities of artificial flowers are exported every 
year to various parts of the Empire. 

In the afternoon Mr. Spinney comes aboard to return our 
call. He says his work in the custom-house is continuous 
and rather uninteresting at present, but as soon as he obtains 
a little knowledge of the language he shall progress more 
rapidly. 

At midnight we weigh anchor, and in the light of a full 
moon resume our journey to Canton. 

October 18. — At five o'clock this morning the first officer 
rouses me and informs me that the ship is just entering the 
harbor of Hong Kong. Going quickly on deck, the scene in 
the early morning light is very beautiful. The sun has not 
yet risen, and the various lights of the town shine clearly 
forth from the base of the hill, which rises perpendicularly 
eighteen hundred feet. As soon as we drop anchor we are 
surrounded by multitudes of sampans, on the lookout for em- 
ployment. We intend to visit Hong Kong on our return 
from Canton and Macao, and at ten o'clock we are once more 
on our way, steaming rapidly up the Chu-kiang, or Pearl 
Eiver, past beautiful scenery on each side of us, while gayly 
painted junks and fishing-boats are tossed up and down un- 
ceremoniously by our steamer's waves. At one o'clock we 



164 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

pass the Boca or Bogue forts, the scene of a conflict between 
the English and the Chinese in 1857. Beyond, on our left, 
is Whampoa, where heavily loaded vessels are obliged to an- 
chor, on account of the shallowness of the stream above. At 
five o'clock we reach Canton and anchor opposite Shamien 
(the foreign reservation), in the midst of a perfect flotilla of 
junks, "flower-boats," "snake-boats," and sampans. These 
boats are the homes of a large portion of the population of 
the city. Women and young girls take the place of the men 
(who for the most part are employed elsewhere), and mothers 
with their babies strapped on their backs wield a long oar 
with wonderful muscular power. Often, too, the mothers tie 
their very youngest children to the deck by a long cord, while 
those of a few years tumble about with a bamboo float fas- 
tened around them, which serves at once for clothing and life- 
preserver. Canton Eiver swarms with life. Eegular streets 
are formed by the "house-boats," which are placed side by 
side, and the multitude of men, women, children (of all ages), 
dogs, ducks, and chickens that are packed away in them for 
the night is appalling ! The little children, however, are won- 
derfully well-behaved, and look healthy and contented. In- 
deed, I have never seen better behaved babies than those in 
China. Early in the morning, as I have said, they are either 
strapped to their mothers' backs, or tied by a cord to the deck, 
and no further notice is taken of them, — a fact they seem to 
be perfectly well aware of, and hence do not seek to attract 
attention. 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 165 

Canton is distant ninety miles from Hong Kong and eighty 
from Macao. It contains a population of one million in the 
city proper, while two hundred and fifty thousand live in 
boats. A large foreign population still dwell on the reserva- 
tion, but the number has been considerably diminished of 
late years, owing to the stagnation of trade. Canton is situ- 
ated in exact accordance with the rules of Feng-Shui. "It is 
placed in the very angle formed by two chains of hills running 
in gentle curves towards the Bogue, where they almost meet 
each other, forming a complete horseshoe. The chain of hills 
known as the White Clouds represent the dragon, whilst the 
undulating ground on the other side of the river forms the 
white tiger."* 

October 19. — We go ashore soon after breakfast. ¥ and 

I are cordially received by Messrs. Russell & Co., to whom 

we have letters; while Mr. U and our English companion 

are comfortably installed at the house of the Commissioner of 
Customs. Indeed, letters of introduction are absolutely neces- 
sary in Canton, as the place contains only one second-rate 
hotel. The house of Messrs. Russell & Co. stands on the site 
of the old East India Company's Factory, destroyed by a 
mob in 1856. Our host kindly places his private boat at 
our disposal, and we return to the Glengyle for our trunks. 
Having obtained them, we bid the captain and officers farewell. f 

* Eitel's Feng-Shui. 

t It was farewell indeed. The Glengyle returned safely to Shanghai, and 



166 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

After landing our baggage we spend the rest of the day in 
walking slowly about the city. We find, on all sides, vast 
quantities of ivory and sandal-wood articles, many handsome 
cups of silver and gold, covered with grotesque designs, while 
silk goods of the best quality can be bought at very reasonable 
prices. In the course of our wanderings we enter a large em- 
porium of fire-crackers, and I perceive that I am in the very 
store whence comes a certain brand of fire-crackers, — the 
Golden Dragon Chop, — which was always the favorite among 
my companions at home. Opposite the house of Messrs. Kus- 
sell & Co. I see the warehouse containing the prepared ginger 
which is exported from Canton in large quantities. 

October W. — With a guide in advance, we start this morn- 
ing for a walk through the city, intending to visit some of 
the chief objects of interest. The streets of Canton are 
scarcely wide enough for two sedan-chairs to pass along, but, 
contrary to the usual state of things in China, the thorough- 
fares are really very clean. Large painted signs, suspended 
perpendicularly, and gorgeous lanterns, improve the outward 
appearance of the houses and stores ; and in spite of the vast 
crowds of people hurrying hither and thither, the best of 
order prevails. Every one seems to treat his neighbor with 
courteous consideration; oftentimes when, on account of the 

on her next trip down the coast to Amoy she struck on Namoa Island 
(off Amoy), on November 9, and sank in seven minutes. Captain Carnell, 
several under-officers, and many of the crew were drowned. 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 167 

excessive narrowness of the streets, two coolies carrying a 
heavy burden meet two other coolies similarly loaded, and 
produce for the moment a complete block, one pair quickly 
moves aside for the others, while a large crowd at each end 
quietly wait till the road is clear, without any pushing or 
ill-temper, so often seen at home. 

We visit first the markets, where we see, dressed and ex- 
posed for sale, rats, cats, and puppies, besides various other 
articles of food. As we are passing a native restaurant, the 
proprietor lifts the cover from a sort of stew, at the same 
time calling my attention to it, in hopes of alluring me to 
taste. "What b'long?" I inquire. "This b'long cat-hash," 
he replies, at the same time stirring up the mess with sa 
long chopstick. I shake my head in disgust. The proprietor 
looks at it with delight, but remarks philosophically, "Some 
people likee, some people no likee ! " " Yes," I reply, " me no 
likee." And I walk on. 

From here we make our way to a silk-weaving establish- 
ment, and can but wonder how such beautiful fabrics origi- 
nate in such disagreeable quarters. We then stop in at an 
opium-den. Owing to the early hour of the day, it is thinly 
patronized, but two poor wretches are even now under the 
influence of the drug. The room is similar in appearance to 
the one we visited in San Francisco. From here we proceed 
to the Temple of the Five Hundred Genii, called in Chinese 
Wa-lam-tsz\ Canton contains one hundred and twenty-four 



168 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

temples and other religious edifices. This Temple of the Five 
Hundred Genii is full of small gilded images, five hundred in 
number, which are placed around a large room, called the 
Hall of the Saints. Beyond, is the " Triple Representation of 
Buddha," and near by stands a figure of the Emperor Kien- 
lung, who reigned from A. D. 1736-1796. In the immediate 
vicinity of the temple, also, is a beautiful marble pagoda, 
about thirty-five feet high. 

Our guide takes us next to the Temple of Longevity, called 
in Chinese Cheung-shau-tsz\ where we are shown a colossal 
figure of Buddha in a recumbent position. We now leave 
the Chinese city proper, and enter the Tartar city, and soon 
arrive at the Tartar city temple, called in Chinese Kwong- 
foau-tsz\ Here are three colossal images of Buddha, about 
twenty feet in height, and two small granite pagodas of great 
antiquity. This temple was built A. D. 250. Continuing our 
way, we visit next the Flowery Pagoda, called in Chinese 
Fa-t'ap-hik-yung-tsz\ This building is over two hundred feet 
in height, and from its summit we obtain a fine view of the 
city. On our way back we stop at the Mohammedan Mosque, 
said to have been founded by Arabian voyagers in A. d. 850. 
It is called in Chinese Kwong-fap-wai-shing-tsz\ Having .re- 
moved our shoes, we enter, but, except some rich carpets and 
a few curious tablets, it contains little of interest. We finish 
our morning's tour by an inspection of the Temple of the 
Five Genii. The Chinese name is 'Ng-sin-kun. Here there 



PEKIN TO CANTON. l6g 

is much that will well repay investigation. As we enter we 
see a large idol. This is the supreme god of the Tauists. 
Near by is a very large bell, which was struck by a cannon- 
ball from an English man-of-war during the bombardment of 
the city, in 1857. The bell is said to have been placed in 
this temple hundreds of years ago, and a prophecy was then 
uttered, declaring that evil would fall upon the city when 
the bell gave forth sound. While doing our best to accept 
this statement, we are led by our guide to a little court- 
yard of the temple, in which is a large rock, with a curious 
impression on its surface, somewhat like the print of a gi- 
gantic foot. This is declared by the priests to be the mark 
of the divine Buddha. Before passing out we are shown five 
stones which represent five holy rams, from which Canton is 
said to have derived the name of the " City of Bams." From 
here we return to Ki-chong (Bussell & Co.'s residence). 

After tiffin and a good rest we set out again. Embarking 
in our host's boat (for every merchant possesses a well-built 
boat for the use of his establishment), we are rowed rapidly 
across the river to the great Honam Temple, called in Chi- 
nese Hai-chong-tsz\ It was built about A. D. 1675, by the 
son-in-law of the Emperor Kang-hi. Among the various idols 
is an image of Koon-yam (the Japanese Kuanon), the Hearer 
of Prayers. A handsome pagoda, of white marble, stands in 
the main hall. Near the temple, in an adjoining building, 
are some sacred pigs, enormously fat, kept by the priests as 



170 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

an example to the people to obey the command of Buddha, 
forbidding the destruction of a single living creature. For 
the same reason a quantity of fish are fed daily in an arti- 
ficial pond near by.* Going now through the temple grounds, 
we are conducted to an immense urn, in which the ashes of 
the priests belonging to the temple are placed after crema- 
tion. Our guide assures us that the urn now contains the 
ashes of eighteen hundred and thirty-two. As we retrace our 
steps by one of the halls of the temple, we see the priests at 
supper. Several act as waiters, and walk round the room, 
filling each one's bowl with an uninviting stew of a sort of 
herb. The long line of priests with their flowing robes — not 
too clean — and shaved heads, eating rapidly with chopsticks, 
is not a pleasant sight. They offer us some refreshment, but 
we shudder and decline. 

Having returned to the boat, we recross the river and 
make our way to the Execution Ground, called Tin-tsz'-ma- 
t'au. A more dismal spot from which to make exit from the 
world could hardly be obtained. On landing from the river, 
we are led through a neglected garden into a small plot of 
ground, enclosed on one side by a high mud-wall, and on 
the other by the rear of a pottery manufactory. This is the 

* I have been told, however, that Buddhists allow themselves to eat fish, 
on the ground that they themselves do not actually put them to death ; for, 
having removed a fish from the water, it dies without any interference from 







^ ., r: _ T? _._ 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 171 

Execution Ground of the city. A narrow alley connects it 
with one of the principal streets. Several skulls are strewn 
about; and in the centre of the place a large pool of clotted 
blood, and a head covered with a piece of matting, give cer- 
tain evidence that some criminal has very recently paid the 
penalty of his crimes. On inquiring, we are told that a man 
was executed only twenty-four hours before. At one end of 
the Execution Ground are two tall upright poles on which 
the heads of notorious malefactors are displayed. As we are 
leaving the grounds we meet the executioner, — a fat, happy- 
looking native, calmly smoking his pipe. Our guide addresses 
him respectfully. He tells us that he receives for his ser- 
vices "half-dollar one piecee," and is evidently satisfied with 
his lot. We ask to examine his official sword, but he replies 
that it is kept in the neighboring Yamen, and only brought 
to him when a criminal is to be killed. 

Leaving this place of death, we follow our guide to the 
city prison. Here we are immediately surrounded by a crowd 
of miserable prisoners, some chained together, others with a 
ball and chain on their legs, all of them clamorous for a few 
"cash." Among the convicts is a wretched woman who has 
poisoned her husband. For this deed she is to be cut into 
thirty-six pieces on the Execution Ground. The Chinese be- 
lieve that if the body is deprived of any member or part at 
or before death, that very portion will be lacking in the next 
world; consequently there is no worse punishment, in their 



172 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

opinion, apart from the physical pain, than to undergo a 
separation of limb from limb. A gentleman who witnessed 
this terrible torture told me that nothing could be more in- 
human; for, beginning with the extremities, the less vital 
parts are lopped off, until the victim either dies from pain 
and loss of blood, or endures the agony till the heart itself 
is destroyed. 

We next visit the Examination Hall, called in Chinese 
Kung-iin. This contains about 8,650 cells, in which the can- 
didates are locked and left entirely alone for two days, till 
their answers to the given questions have been handed in to 
the authorities. Similar examinations are held at certain 
times in all the provinces and districts, and by means of 
these, and a final and much more severe one held triennially 
at Pekin, various high offices of the Empire are apportioned. 
Any one may be a candidate for the lowest or district ex- 
amination. If he passes this and is still ambitious, he must 
then apply for the provincial examination, and the chosen 
few from each province strive in the Imperial examination 
at Pekin for the button of a powerful mandarin, or some 
other magistracy, and sometimes return as rulers of the prov- 
ince from whence they came. 

"We now proceed to the Temple of Horrors, called by the 
Chinese Shing-wong-miu. It contains a large number of fig- 
ures, which were made to represent the tortures of the wicked 
in hell. About a dozen small chambers, enclosed by a sort 



PEKIN TO CANTON, l^S 

of wooden wicker-work, are filled with devils who are caus- 
ing sinful wretches to pay the penalty of crimes committed 
in the body. In one room an unfortunate man is exhibited 
jammed in a wooden vise ; in another, several imps have 
just thrown their victim into a pot of molten lead; in an- 
other, they are slowly strangling a man; while in each com- 
partment a large statue of the Devil himself looks down joy- 
fully on the various performances. This temple is evidently 
regarded with awe by the common people, for we saw little 
knots come up in turn and gaze through the bars with a 
look of horror on their faces. 

On our way back we visit the water-clock, called T'ung-u- 
tik-lau, a very old and curious machine. Then, striking 
rapidly down a side street to the river, we call a sampan, 
and are soon landed at the dock of Kussell & Co.* 

In the various Buddhist temples that we have visited in 
China I have observed an entire absence of that reverent 
and heart-felt worship which is noticeable in Japan. The 
priests and people perform the ceremonies of their sect with 
an air of decided carelessness, regarding them evidently as 
forms which must be discharged to insure their safety in the 
world to come. The buildings themselves, and the various 
sacred utensils, are ill kept and neglected. 

The service in a Buddhist temple is astonishingly similar 

* The temples and other objects of interest in Canton are so located, that, 
with a good guide, one may visit the majority in a single day. 



174 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

to the form of worship in a Eoman Catholic church. Pro- 
cessions of priests march up and down, swinging censers, and 
bowing before richly decorated altars on which are several 
tapers burning dimly. A little bell or gong, struck from time 
to time, increases the resemblance. The following graphic 
description of a Buddhist temple I copy from a most inter- 
esting pamphlet, recently published, which I obtained in 
Hong Kong : — * 

"As you turn towards the principal entrance to the build- 
ing, you remark, a yard or two in advance of the flight of 
steps leading up to it, figures of crouching lions carved in 
stone and resting on pedestals, placed on either side. You 
will be told that these are emblems of Shakyamuni, whose 
cognomen Shakyasimha (lit. Shakya, the lion) indicates that 
he is, by his moral excellence, the king of men, as the lion 
by his strength is the king of the beasts. Perhaps your guide 
will even quote a passage from his sacred scriptures, 'As a 
lion's howl makes all animals tremble, subdues elephants, 
arrests birds in their flight, and fish in the water, thus 
Buddha's utterances upset all other religions, subdue all devils, 
conquer all heretics, and arrest all the misery of life.' 

"If it is a sunny day you will find gathered on the en- 
trance steps a motley assembly ; priests and beggars, lying lazily 
in the sun, or engaged in entological pursuits, mending their 

* Buddhism ; its Historical, Theoretical, and Popular Aspects. By Ernest 
J. Eitel, M. A., Ph. D. 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 175 

clothes, cobbling their shoes, cleaning their opium-pipes, 
smoking, gambling, and so forth, and your appearance will 
be the signal for a general clamor for an alms-offering in 
the shape of a foreign cent, or they will offer their services 
as guides. But if it should happen to be a feast day the steps 
and the whole open space in front, with the court-yards in- 
side, will be crowded to excess by a busy multitude, men, 
women, and children, who have come to worship or to con- 
sult the oracle, hawkers of fruit and other edibles, booths 
with fancy articles of all kinds, stalls opened by druggists, 
wandering doctors, fortune-tellers, tents for the purpose of 
gambling, in short, a complete fair, which pushes its lumber 
and its clamor close to the very altars of the divinities wor- 
shipped inside the central temple. 

"As you enter the front door, a martial figure, with defy- 
ing mien, armed to the teeth and sword in hand, confronts 
you. It is the image of VMa, the patron and protector of 
monasteries. Inside the door there are to the right and left 
niches for the spirits of the doorway, who are supposed to 
keep out all evil influences, and for the N&ga (dragon) spirits, 
who are looked upon as the tutelary deities of the ground on 
which the sacred buildings are erected. 

"Having passed the first court-yard, you are led through a 
second gateway, when your eye is arrested by four gigantic 
images, two being placed on either side of the gateway, guard- 
ing, as it were, with flaming eyes, the entrance to the sane- 



176 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

tuary beyond. Your guide will inform you that they are the 
demon-kings of the four regions (Tchatur Maharadjas), who 
guard the world against the attack of evil spirits (Asuras); 
that each of them is posted on a different side of the central 
mountain (Meru), engaged in guarding and defending with the 
assistance of large armies under their command the corre- 
sponding quarter of the heavens. You will find incense 
lighted at the feet of these giants, and the images themselves 
almost covered with slips of paper, containing either a record 
of vows to be performed in case of prayer answered by these 
heroes, or a record of thanks for favors already bestowed. For 
you will be told, or may witness it, perhaps, with your own 
eyes, that these demon-kings are daily worshipped by the 
common people, who ascribe to them the power of healing all 
those diseases, and of preventing or averting all those calami- 
ties, which are supposed to be the work of evil spirits. 

"After crossing a second court-yard you reach the princi- 
pal temple by ascending a small flight of steps. On entering 
this building you see before you five little altars placed in a 
row, with a small image on each; and if it is the hour of 
prayer you may find a number of priests in full canonicals, 
resembling so many Koman Catholic priests, chanting their 
monotonous litanies and responses to the sound of bell and a 
sort of wooden drum 

"Step nearer. You need not fear to give offence or to 
disturb the devotion of men, who, whilst mechanically con- 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 1 77 

» -. 

tinuing their monotonous litany and chanting their responses, 
will stretch out a hand to examine the texture of your clothes, 
to receive an alms, or offer to light your cigar or criticise in 
whispers the shape and size of your nose. Glance over the 
shoulder of one of those priests and examine his 'manual of 
daily prayer.' It is neatly printed in large-sized, full-bodied 
native type and in the native character, but totally unintelli- 
gible to him, for it is Sanskrit, pure grammatical Sanskrit, 
systematically transliterated, syllable by syllable. Listen to 
him, as he chants, rhythmically indeed, but in drowsy monoto- 
nous voice : ' Sarva tathdgatd schamdm Samdvasantu budd- 
hyd huddhyd siddhyd siddhyd bodhaya bodhaya vibodhaya 
vibodhaya mochaya vimochaya vimochaya sodhaya sodhaya m- 
sodhaya visodhaya Samantdm mochaya Samanta? etc., etc. 
Poor fellow, he has not the slightest idea of the meaning of 
these words, though he may have been chanting these San- 
skrit prayers day after day for ever so many years. But he 
has a notion that these strange sounds have some magic effect, 
beneficial for himself and for the salvation of his soul. There 
is, however, tolerably good sense in the words of his prayer 
which reads, when translated, as follows : ' May all the TatM- 
gatas (i. e. Buddhas) take up their abode in me ! ever teach, 
ever instruct, ever deliver with all knowledge ! with all knowl- 
edge deliver, deliver, completely deliver! purify, purify, pu- 
rify, completely purify! deliver, deliver all living crea- 
tures'! etc. 



178 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

"Pass on from these poor deluded souls that grope in the 

darkness for the light of a Saviour whom they know not 

Visit some of the smaller buildings; you will probably see 
in one of them a fine marble pagoda reaching to the very 
rafters of the roof. It is built in strict Indian style, taste- 
fully decorated, and forms the receptacle of some sacred relic. 
There may be in it perhaps a hair of Buddha, or a tooth, or 
a particle of his robe, or some relic of one of his disciples. 
There also prayers are offered, and sacrificial offerings of flow- 
ers, candles, and incense, presented by the people, who, true 
to the fetichistic habits of their forefathers, ascribe mirac- 
ulous healing powers to such relics But suppose you 

retrace your steps through the various temples you have 
visited, you will find it interesting to have a look at the 
apartments occupied by the priests. They have most of them 
their own cells, but dine together in one large hall, which, 
together with the kitchen and its enormous rice-boilers, are 
worthy a visit. The abbot has his private rooms, apart from 
the cells of the priests. You may find him willing to receive 
you, but you will be astonished if you enter his rooms ex- 
pecting to find there the same primitive simplicity and econ- 
omy which you noticed when passing through the apartments 
allotted to the use of the priests, and which reminded you 
so strongly of the internal arrangements of a Eoman Catholic 
monastery. A modern abbot takes it generally very easy. 
If his monastery is not too far from any centre of foreign 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 179 

commerce, he will show you with pride a collection of articles 
de luxe. He has watches and clocks of foreign manufacture, 
photographs of less than questionable decency, and he is 
generally not only a confirmed opium-smoker, but considers 
himself a good judge of champagne, port, and sherry. His 
attendants are invariably laymen, relatives of his own, who 
may have no intention whatever to take the vows. But the 
same abbot may also have a printing-press with movable 
types, likewise of foreign manufacture, and you may see it 
turning out neat reprints of the most popular portions of the 
Buddhist scriptures, or little tracts and pamphlets of local 
reputation. 

" After a visit to the gardens, which are generally well kept 
and which abound in curious specimens of artificial training, 
after a passing glance at the place where the bodies of de- 
ceased priests are burned, and the tomb which covers their 
ashes, you return through the labyrinth of galleries and courts. 
In one of the latter you may now notice a series of little 
chambers, popularly called chambers of horrors, containing 
statuary representations of the various tortures supposed to 
be employed in the various compartments of hell. For your 
guide will tell you, with a sly hit at yourself, that all those 
who do not believe in Buddhism, or violate its command- 
ments, will after death be reborn in hell. He will inform 
you that there are underneath our earth eight large hells of 
extreme heat, eight more of extreme cold, again eight hells 



180 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

of utter darkness, and on the edge of each universe ten cold 
hells; but as each of these hells has many antechambers and 
smaller hells attached, all being places of torture, there are 
in reality altogether over a hundred thousand of such cham- 
bers of horrors. A pleasant prospect to heretics like yourself, 
your priest will add. 

" On passing out through the gate, your eye may perhaps be 
arrested by a crowd of people surrounding a number of pigs 
wallowing in the richest food thrown before them. You will 
also notice in a conspicuous position near these pigs a poor- 
box, into which the people drop their offerings of money. 
What is it all about ? Look at the inscription affixed to that 
box in large staring letters, ' Save life ! ' The greatest Buddh- 
ist commandment is that which forbids the taking of life. 
All life, human as well as animal life, is absolutely sacred 
in the eyes of the Buddhist devotee. The killing of animals 
for the purpose of food is a heinous offence. Still more so 
is the love of cruelty which leads the strong to prey upon 
the weak, and enables the sportsman, the fox-hunter, the deer- 
stalker, the pigeon-shooter, in heathen and Christian countries, 
to derive a horrible enjoyment from the piteous sufferings of 
poor dumb animals. These pigs are therefore exhibited by 
the priests to remind the people of this greatest of all Buddh- 
ist commandments But, on the other hand, it is ridic- 
ulous to compare this Buddhist commandment, 'thou shalt 
not take life,' with the religion of Him who would not break 



PEKIN TO CANTON. l8l 

the bruised reed nor quench the smoking flax, and to give 
the palm — as some European admirers of Buddhism have 
actually done — to this Buddhist ideal of charity. Just ask 
your guide whether the Buddhist church, which so laudably 
extends its charity even to the brute creation and assiduously 
feeds sacred pigs in its monasteries, exerts herself to amelio- 
rate the condition of poor suffering humanity. He will have 
to acknowledge that no hospitals, no asylums for the blind, 
the deformed, the destitute, have ever been founded by a 
Buddhist community. Alms, indeed, are encouraged, but they 
are to be bestowed on the worthiest, — on the priest, the clois- 
ter, the church, — and thus the current of charity is diverted 
from the destitute or outcasts of society, whose very destitu- 
tion is, according to the Buddhist scriptures, a proof of their 
unworthiness, to the worthiest on earth, to the community of 
priests, who are bound to receive the gifts bestowed, in order 
that the faithful may acquire merit, though forbidden by the 
self-renouncing principles of their creed to retain them for 
their private advantage. Thus it was brought about that the 
Buddhist priests take to feeding sacred pigs. A Buddhist 
Peabody, therefore, would be doing the correct thing if he 
were to throw all his humanitarian efforts with all his money 
— before the swine. 

"Well, you have visited a fair specimen of the popular pan- 
theon of Northern Buddhism. What is the result ? . . . . 
Ancient Buddhism knows of no sin-atoning power; it holds 



182 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

out to the troubled, guilty conscience no prospect of mercy, 
no chance of obtaining forgiveness, no possibility of justifica- 
tion, allowing not even so much as extenuation of guilt under 
any circumstances whatever. .... It is a science without in- 
spiration, a religion without God, a body without a spirit, 
unable to regenerate, cheerless, cold, dead, and deplorably 
barren of results." 

October 21. — We call this morning on the American con- 
sul (our fellow-passenger on the Great Republic). He invites 
us to come to the consulate at three o'clock in the afternoon 
and be present at his formal reception of the Viceroy. As 
we have no right to wear an official costume, we are obliged 
to decline. We promise, however, to dine at the consulate 
on the morrow. We dine in the evening with Commissioner 
Hart, brother of Commissioner James Hart of Pekin. 

October 22. — Colonel Lincoln, the American consul, has 
kindly invited us to come to his house at four o'clock this 
afternoon, and, in company with himself and family, to spend 
an hour on the river and return afterwards to dinner. All 
the foreign consuls have large, comfortable boats, with well- 
protected cabins ; and the flags of the different countries float 
gracefully over the sterns. All thanks to Mrs. Lincoln, for 
the first time in my travels I see my country's representative 
surrounded by attendants appropriately dressed. Mrs. Lincoln 
has presented to the crew of her husband's officiaP boat a very 
simple but tasteful uniform, of which they are very proud. It 



PEKIN TO CANTON. 1 83 

consists of a white sailor's shirt with a broad blue collar on 
which are stars, blue trousers, and a broad-brimmed straw 
hat with American Consul printed on the ribbon. Besides 
these articles, each man has a handsome red sash tied around 
his waist. Small matters like these make a great impression 
on the Chinese mind. The common people judge largely of 
the importance of a foreign country by the size of its consu- 
late, its interior arrangements, of which they hear through the 
servants, and by the appearance of the attendants of the rep- 
resentative when they accompany their master about the city. 
While other nations seem to recognize this, — as is proved by 
the marked dress of their servants, the spaciousness of their 
legations, and the precision with which their households are- 
conducted, — America pays but little attention to the quar- 
ters or maintenance of those she sends abroad. 

After a very pleasant row on the river and a visit to a 
large joss-house lately erected, we return to the consulate for 
dinner. 

To-morrow we leave Canton and continue our journey to 
Macao. In Canton one sees thorough Chinese life. The peo- 
ple are more interesting than the inhabitants of the North. 
They are more agreeable and kindly to foreigners, their streets 
and dwellings are far cleaner, and they are farther advanced 
in the peculiar arts of their race. Pekin is a barbarous en- 
campment on the frontier of civilization. Canton is a bus- 
tling city which brings continually before the mind thoughts 
of the past, the present, and the future. 



1 84 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER XII. 

CANTON TO BATAVIA. 

Macao. —Fan-tan Gambling. — Hong Kong. — Singapore. — Crossing the 
Equator. — Arrival at Batavia. 

October %3. — At half past seven this morning we bid fare- 
well to our kind hosts and go on board the steamer Spark, 
bound for Macao. Just before we start a graceful row-boat 
draws near, propelled by a neatly dressed crew and steered 
by a foreigner. It is Commissioner Hart, who has come to 
wish us good-speed. Soon our vessel is under weigh. Hav- 
ing passed Whampoa, I perceive that the door leading to the 
steerage is locked, while a native of Manilla, armed with 
pistols and a huge cutlass, walks up and down continually 
before it. An armed man, likewise, patrols the upper deck. 
I am informed by the captain that these precautions are 
necessitated by the quantities of pirates that infest the 
waters between Canton and Macao. He says, furthermore, 
that every Chinese passenger is searched as he comes aboard, 
and all suspicious-looking baskets, bundles, and packages are 
thoroughly overhauled, in order that any concealed weapons 
may be brought to light. 

"About two years ago," says he, "the Spark one morning 



CANTON TO BATAVIA. 185 

left Canton with a large number of Chinese steerage-passen- 
gers bound for Macao. Whampoa was passed in safety, and 
the Spark had reached the broad portion of the river and 
was steaming rapidly along, when several junks were observed 
headed directly for the vessel. This excited no remark, how- 
ever, but a blast of the whistle was given as a notification 
of the steamer's approach. It was noon. The captain was 
at dinner; the only passenger was sitting idly on deck, and 
the quartermaster at the wheel was steering the vessel easily 
through the calm water without need of assistance. Suddenly 
a body of natives rushed up from the steerage, poured over 
the upper deck and fell upon the foreigners without mercy. 
The captain was literally cut to pieces. The passenger was 
mortally wounded and left for dead, and several of the crew 
who resisted were killed by their fellow-countrymen. Imme- 
diately the junks (which were previously noticed) approached 
the Spark, and another score of rascals climbed over the side. 
The captors, however, were unable to make off with their 
prize. They were ignorant of the practical use of the ma- 
chinery. Having therefore plundered and stripped the vessel 
from stem to stern, they decamped in the junks and made 
for the nearest land. The Chinese who were left on the 
Spark succeeded in bringing the vessel to Macao. The out- 
rage was promptly reported to the authorities; the pirates 
were pursued, and several that were captured were executed. 
Since that time all steamers on these waters post a guard in 
bow and stern." 



1 86 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

At 5 P. M., after a smooth and delightful trip, we reach 
Guia light, and come in sight of the curious pink, yellow, 
and brown buildings, which give to Macao such a strange 
appearance, — so different from anything we have seen for 
the past few months. As soon as we have landed we make 
our way to the Eoyal Hotel, followed by a string of Portu- 
guese beggars, who are even more importunate than China- 
men. Macao was settled by the Portuguese in A. D. 1547; 
and though this nation has held it ever since, and filled it 
with her own citizens and soldiery, still China has always 
insisted that it is in reality under her dominion. A lovely 
place it is, with a long curved beach, and with boldly rising 
hills around, on whose summits fleecy clouds rest constantly. 
In front of the town are several islands. The typhoon of 
September, 1874, did great damage to the town and harbor, 
but the traces of the disaster are nearly removed. 

The hotel is built on a long curved street, Praya Grande, 
which follows the bend of the beach. The trade of Macao 
has departed. The coolie traffic alone remains. In the Chi- 
nese quarter, however, the stores are as thronged as in Can- 
ton. Undoubtedly in time the whole place will have fallen 
into the hands of the Chinese. The few Portuguese officials 
who are obliged to reside here come with reluctance. A 
social circle scarcely exists. The place is lifeless in part, and 
the busy multitude of Chinamen only brings before the minds 
of the foreigners the terible loneliness of their lot. 



CANTON TO BAT AVI A. 1 87 

Soon after dinner we take sedan-chairs and visit the great 
fan-tan establishment. Fan-tan is a gambling game which 
is played continually in Macao, both by foreigners and 
Chinese. The Portuguese government receives one hundred 
and fifty thousand dollars a year as a license from the 
proprietors of the gambling-houses. Every Saturday evening 
the steamers from Canton and Hong Kong bring many for- 
eigners to try their luck on the fan-tan table. Here all is 
eagerness, animation, and excitement, — a dangerous agent to 
banish loneliness and ennui. 

The game is played as follows : a flat piece of lead, per- 
fectly square and a foot in length and breadth, is placed in 
the middle of the table. The banker — a keen-looking China- 
man — thrusts his hand into a pile of " cash," and, grasping 
as many as he can, lays them down on the table in sight of 
the players. The players than stake certain sums on 1, 2, 3, 
or 4, laying their money opposite the sides of the square 
so numbered. Taking now two chopsticks, the banker slowly 
counts off the "cash," pushing aside four at a time, and the 
number of the last count which finishes the pile — four, three, 
two, or one, whatever may end it — determines the winning 
side of the lead square. As the banker evidently cannot be 
sure of the number of "cash" which he takes in his hand 
from time to time, and as moreover the stakes are not depos- 
ited till the handful of " cash " is placed on the table, it is 
hardly possible for the players to be imposed upon. When 



188 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the bank pays, however, it gives three times the amount of 
the stake less a discount of eight per cent, — a commission 
which in the end must pay the proprietors very largely. 

The foreigners play fan-tan in a room at the top of the 
house, while the Chinese (who are inveterate gamblers) re- 
main down below. The same fan-tan table is used, however, 
by both parties. A basket is let down by a cord from the 
foreigners' room; the money is placed in the basket, with a 
ticket indicating the number which the player has selected, 
and the whole is then lowered to the table. At the conclu- 
sion of a play, if the foreigner has won, his gains are hoisted 
up in the basket. 

We prefer to witness the game in the lower room, and we 
spend a half-hour with great interest watching the Chinamen 
of all grades betting eagerly on every play. Several coolies 
and common servants are here risking dollar after dollar of 
the only money they own in the world, — the result of weeks 
of saving. If they lose, having no more with which to play, 
they quietly withdraw; but if they win, their good fortune 
only incites them to higher stakes. Peering eagerly into the 
heap of "cash," as each division of four is swept aside, 
they determine accurately the number of the last count long 
before the banker himself announces it. 

We are standing near a Chinaman, — probably a messenger 
or house servant, — who has been playing steadily for many 
minutes. He has lost continually, and has nearly arrived at 



CANTON TO BAT AVI A. 1 89 

the end of his resources. His money is all gone, but he 
places a small silver watch in the hands of the banker, who 
tells him it may represent one silver dollar. The player, 
being apparently satisfied with this estimate of its worth, lays 
it down by the side of the lead square marked 1 and awaits 
the result of the count. Several other Chinamen, thinking 
this man must have some good reason for trusting his last 
piece of property to this number, follow his example by 
placing their bets by the side of the watch. The banker 
slowly sweeps the *' cash " from the table, four at a time, the 
owner of the watch following each movement of the chop- 
sticks with eyes almost starting out of their sockets. When 
more than half has been counted off, an expression of delight 
fills his face, and when, soon after, one odd " cash" remains from 
the lot and he receives back his watch and nearly three dol- 
lars besides, he is the picture of happiness and is congratu- 
lated loudly by the other players on his good fortune. Soon 
after this little drama we return to the hotel. 

October %4. — After breakfast this morning we visit the large 
garden now owned by Lourenco Marques, containing the grotto 
of the poet Camoes, where he is said to have composed some 
of his best known works. Following a path which runs 
through thick tropical vegetation, we come to a little hill, on 
the summit of which is a grotto which overlooks the sea. In 
this grotto is a bust of Camoes bearing the following inscrip- 
tion: "Luiz De Camoes; Nasceo 1524, Morreo 1580." Out- 



190 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

side the grotto are several tablets with various poetical in- 
scriptions; one signed "Bowring, July 30, 1849," being par- 
ticularly appropriate : — 

SONNET TO MACAO. 

"Gem of the Orient Earth and open sea, 
Macao ! That in thy lap and on thy breast 
Hast gathered beauties all the loveliest 
Which the sun smiles (on) in his majesty! 

"The very clouds that top each mountain's crest 
Seem to repose there, lingering lovingly. 
How full of grace the green Cathayon tree 
Bends to the breeze, and now thy sands are prest 

"With gentlest waves, which ever and anon 
Break their awakened furies on thy shore ! 
Were these the scenes that poet looked upon 
Whose lyre, though known to fame, knew misery more? 

"They have their glories, and Earth's diadems 
Have nought so bright as genius' gilded gems." 

After dinner we visit the church of Our Lady of Sorrows, 
situated on the top of a hill overlooking the town and harbor. 
A curious wooden cross stands in front of the church, said to 
have been erected by a sea-captain, who, being caught, many 
years ago, in a typhoon off Macao, vowed to plant a cross in 
front of this church made from the mainmast of his vessel, 
and carry the mast up the hill on his back, if he was per- 
mitted to reach the shore in safety. In the vestry of the 
church there is a picture which shows the ship in the storm 
and distress which occasioned the vow. 



CANTON TO BATAVIA. 191 

We next visit the Protestant chapel, where we find a tablet 
to the memory of James B. Endicott, a native of Danvers, 
Massachusetts ; Mr. Endicott was long well known in Macao, 
and died here in 1870. In the neighboring graveyard rests 
Morrison, the first Protestant missionary who ever came to 
China. A stone near by bears the following inscription: "In 
memory of Lord John Henry Churchill, son of George, 5 th 
Duke of Marlborough." 

At sunset we make our way round the Portuguese fort to 
the high hill on which stands the lighthouse. At the foot of 
the hill we enjoy a refreshing swim; the water is warm and 
delightful. From here we scramble up to the top of the hill 
to the lighthouse, and are kindly shown over the premises by 
the Portuguese in charge. 

October 25. — We leave Macao at half past seven this morn- 
ing in the steamer Po-wan, and reach Hong Kong at noon. 
Hong Kong (Island of Sweet Water) was seized by the Eng- 
lish in 1842 in return for the destruction of opium by the 
Chinese, and for various insults to British residents at Can- 
ton. Hong Kong is built on an island, and the town is 
planted at the base and on the side of the precipitous Victoria 
Peak, which rises perpendicularly for eighteen hundred feet. 
It is said that one can drop a stone from the summit into the 
main street of the town below. The population of Hong Kong 
is made up of different nationalities, and varies so continually 
that it is impossible to state it exactly. In round numbers, it 



192 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

is about one hundred and thirty-five thousand. The foreigners 
number about three thousand five hundred; the rest of the 
population consist of Chinese, Portuguese, and Parsees. The 
harbor is large and convenient, and is full of steamers and 
sailing-vessels from all parts of the world. The warehouses 
of the merchants are commodious and well built ; the private 
residences and villas, nestling in different parts of the hill, 
form agreeable retreats after the toil of the day; to the left, 
a densely populated Chinese quarter recalls to your mind that 
you are still in the immediate vicinity of the Celestial Empire. 
Over the post-office, in the centre of Hong Kong, are these 
words : " As cold waters to a thirsty soul, so is good news 
from a far country." 

October 27.— Except the ever-pleasant society of the foreign 
residents, there is very little in Hong Kong of special inter- 
est to the traveller. When he has climbed Victoria Peak, 
and visited the Happy Valley and the Public Gardens, he 
may continue on his way. We planned to start for Manilla 
at once, but a typhoon is raging on the neighboring waters, 
and furious wind and constant rain indicate to us its resist- 
less power. The departure of the Manilla steamer is there- 
fore postponed, and the thick weather obliges us to remain 
in-doors. 

October 28. — Heavy rain continues without cessation. We 
dine in the evening with Mr. W. Seymour Geary, of Oly- 
phant & Co., whose house is finely situated on the hill. 



CANTON TO BAT AVI A. 1 93 

October SO. — The rain continues. We are very glad to 
meet one of our fellow-passengers of the Great Republic, who 
is a merchant here in Hong Kong. Thanks to his kindness, 
we have enjoyed for several days the hospitality of the new 
club-house, a fine structure in the Gothic style. We hear 
also of the three United States army officers who crossed the 
Pacific with us. They are expected here in about ten days. 

On account of the rain and wind, the Manilla steamer is 
again delayed ! If we wait longer we may be obliged to 
omit some portion of our proposed Indian travel; so we de- 
cide to continue our way to Singapore, and proceed from 
there to Java. The regular mail-boat of the Peninsular and 
Oriental Steamship Company has just left Hong Kong. An- 
other will not start for a week; we take passage, therefore, 
on the steamer Abbotsford, bound for Singapore direct, and 
at 5 P. M. we move slowly out of the harbor of Hong Kong, 
with a voyage of fourteen hundred miles before us * 



* I take this opportunity to thank the American Consul, D. Bailey, Esq., 
for his many kindnesses, official and personal. I have something to say here 
in regard to the 0. & 0. S. S. Co. Having collected various Japanese and Chi- 
nese curiosities, I desired to have them reach my friends in Boston by Christ- 
mas. I therefore decided to send them by steamer to San Francisco, and 
have them forwarded across the continent by rail. This method is, of course, 
far more expensive than carriage on a sailing-vessel, but, as I have said, I wished 
the articles to reach my friends at Christmas-time. The agent of the 0. & 0. 
S. S. Co. assured me that the boxes would not be opened in San Francisco (as 
they were accompanied by a full consular certificate), but would be forwarded 
promptly in bond to Boston. Believing him to be reliable, I left the articles 



194 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

October 31. — The sea is very rough, and we pitch and roll 
from morning till night, to the decided injury of the crockery 
and to the great annoyance of everybody. Captain Patterson, 
a thorough Scotchman, pays us the most continual and thought- 
ful attention, and the different officers of the ship exert them- 
selves in many ways to make our voyage pass pleasantly. 

November 5. — We are now within three hundred miles of 
Singapore. The sea is calm and still, the sky is clear, and 
the sun is uncomfortably warm. We are well into the 
tropics ! 

November 6. — At two o'clock this morning a fierce squall 
sweeps over us. Dark clouds suddenly cover the bright moon 
and clear sky. For an hour and a half our steamer struggles 
on against a fierce wind and heavy sea. The first officer is 
on the watch, and I come on deck and go up with him on 
to the bridge. Lightning flashes around us, the thunder 
rumbles, and at last a heavy rain falls. Soon the moon 
shines clearly forth again, the clouds roll aside, — the storm 
has washed itself away. 

At 1 P. M. we pass the lighthouse which marks the en- 
trance to Singapore Straits, and our course is immediately 

in his hands. The result was as follows : On their arrival at San Francisco, 
the "boxes were opened, thoroughly overhauled, and laid aside. In response to 
frequent letters from my friends in Boston (whom I had notified), they were 
finally started along. They reached Boston January 22d ! As an example of 
our present tariff, I will mention that my curiosities were valued at $ 250 ; 
the government exacted a duty of $100.50. 



CANTON TO BATAVIA. 195 

altered to the westward. At five o'clock we can see in the 
distance the large warehouses that front the harbor of Singa- 
pore. On our right hand are thick groves of cocoa-nut trees, 
surrounded by tropical vegetation that seems to shut out the 
very light itself. At six o'clock we reach our wharf, and 
long before the vessel is made fast it is surrounded by light 
canoes, paddled by small Malay boys who dart hither and 
thither, calling out to us in broken English to toss them 
small coins, for which they promise to dive. And dive they 
do ! Hardly can a coin touch the water — thrown purposely 
a long distance from the canoes — before three or four have 
dropped from their boats, eager to seize the money before it 
sinks to the bottom. One even brought up a cent from the 
very bottom, which we had tossed in an unexpected direction. 
November 7. — Singapore, the capital of the Straits settle- 
ments, is situated one degree north of the equator. It was 
founded in 1819, and transferred by the Indian government 
to the Crown in 1867. The population is about one hun- 
dred thousand, of whom eight hundred are English, Americans, 
and Europeans. Singapore is on one of the great highways 
of the world. Steamers from all directions touch here con- 
stantly, and it is a regular stopping-place for the mail-boats 
of the Peninsular and Oriental, and Messageries Maritimes 
Companies. Singapore contains representatives of nearly every 
race of men on the globe. Here one may see, besides 
English, Americans, Germans, and French, Chinese, Malays, 



196 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

Persians, Arabians, Jews, Turks, and Indians. The business 
part of the town contains many fine buildings, and the large 
and comfortable dwellings of the merchants are pleasantly- 
situated in the suburbs. The town possesses a large Episcopal 
church, several massive government buildings, and a spacious 
residence occupied by the governor. A strong fort over- 
looks the harbor. There are many beautiful gardens, and ex- 
cellent roads in the vicinity, while an unchanging and agree- 
able climate, luxurious tropical vegetation, and a profusion of 
delicious fruit combine to render Singapore a most enjoya- 
ble residence for man. 

We visit the English church — it is called a cathedral — 
in the morning. In the afternoon we walk out to the Bo- 
tanical Gardens, situated about three miles from the centre 
of the town. These gardens contain tropical plants of various 
kinds, a menagerie of deer, monkeys, bears, and other animals, 
and an extensive aviary * 

November 9. — We are kindly introduced at the English 
club. In the evening we dine with the partners of Gilfillan, 
Wood, & Co., at their pleasant house in the suburbs. 

November 10. — We receive permission from Mr. Whampoa, 
an influential Chinese merchant, to visit his large and curious 



* We have had a narrow escape. The " P. & 0." mail steamer which we 
just missed at Hong Kong reached Singapore after a dangerous passage in a 
typhoon. The steamer for Java which connected with it is just reported 



CANTON TO BAT AVI A. 197 

gardens, situated about two miles from the city. Mr. Wham- 
poa is a man of importance in Singapore, being even a 
member of the Legislative Council. His gardens are laid 
out in strict Chinese style, but they contain many trees and 
plants well worth seeing. Here is the traveller's palm, 
which, being tapped, yields very drinkable water. Here too 
are banana and lemon trees ; tea, coffee, aloe, and pineapple 
plants ; pummelo and cocoa-nut trees, and many others. 

In the evening we dine with the firm of Boustead & Co. 

November 11. — At 10 p. M. we go on board the Dutch 
steamer Banda, which is advertised to start for Batavia at 
daybreak to-morrow. 

November 12. — The sea is very smooth ; the atmosphere, 
though very warm, is not oppressive ; but a sort of tropical 
languor compels us to sit idly, watching the thickly wooded 
shore of the island of Sumatra, which seems to be ever glid- 
ing away. 

It is 6 P. M. We are crossing the equator. Our captain 
tells us we are now upon it. I gaze over the ship's side in 
a vain endeavor to discover that black line which seemed 
such an absolute reality in the school-days of my earliest 
youth. 

November 13. — The boats of the Netherlands India Steam- 
ship Company are decidedly uncomfortable. The state-rooms 
are small and stuffy, the food is rarely varied and is always 
carelessly prepared and uninviting. Each captain is allowed 



198 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

a certain sum with which to provision his boat, and either 
the sum is far too small, or a boat's menu is diminished in 
direct ratio to the amount an economizing captain reserves 
from the money advanced. Besides this, a corps of absolutely 
untrained and stupid Malay boys attempt to wait on the 
passengers, but only get in everybody's way. I hear that 
some French steamers are soon to be put on the line be- 
tween Singapore and Batavia. For the public's sake I hope 
they will appear speedily. 

November H. — At noon to-day we come to anchor off 
Java, and soon a small steamer comes alongside to take us 
up the narrow canal which is the only approach to Batavia 
from the harbor. The Banda is anchored two miles from 
the town; and although we have bought tickets for Batavia, 
(which we supposed would carry us there), we are obliged to 
pay another fare to the small steamer, unless we wish to re- 
main at a long distance from land. This is an outrage ; and 
although I heard several protestiDg against it, yet the nui- 
sance has been suffered to continue so long, that no one is 
willing to be the first to challenge it. 

We are landed at the custom-house. Passing through, we 
find a score of small barouches in waiting, drawn by small 
but powerful ponies. We are driven through broad streets, 
past spacious residences and warehouses. Horse-cars rumble 
along by our side. A canal — the delight of the Dutch — 
runs parallel with the principal street, in which multitudes 



CANTON TO BATAVIA. 1 99 

of Malays are bathing, or conducting a general laundrying 
establishment. Large numbers of handsome equipages are 
going in various directions, driven by Malay coachmen in 
stylish liveries, topped by curious gayly painted tin hats. 
Behind the vehicles two footmen stand, dressed in the same 
costume as the drivers ; and as the turnouts rattle by at the 
tremendous speed for which the place is noted, the whole 
effect is very striking. Groves of cocoa-nut trees are scat- 
tered here and there throughout the city, and bread-fruit 
and other tropical productions grow in every other garden- 
plot. The Malays are a very healthy-looking race, and very 
few beggars are to be seen in the streets. 

At six o'clock we walk to the parade-ground to hear the; 
military band. We are surprised to find a large concourse 
of foreigners in carriages or on horseback, the ladies in ele- 
gant toilets, and nearly everybody without hat or head-cover- 
ing of any sort, — for the sun always sets at six o'clock, and 
the city is then cool and delightful. On the parade-ground is 
a monument erected in memory of the battle of Waterloo, — 
a bronze lion on a high pedestal. The music is excellent, 
and we can hardly realize — with all the fashion and civili- 
zation that surrounds us, and with the strains of the "Blue 
Danube " in our ears — that we are on an island below the 
equator, far away from the chief habitations of men. 



200 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

JAVA TO .CEYLON. 

Batavia. — Buitenzorg. — An Inland Trip. — Embarkation for Ceylon. 
— Arrival at Point De Galle. 

November IS. — The population of Batavia is about one 
hundred thousand. It possesses, besides its many private resi- 
dences and warehouses, an opera-house, several very ordinary 
hotels, a fine museum, and a handsome residence occupied by 
the governor-general. The climate is hotter than our very 
warmest summer day, and no one walks out in the middle of 
the day, for the sun has a very dangerous power. Many sorts 
of fruits can be obtained, and all may be eaten with safety, 
except the pineapple, which, in Java, is exceedingly hurtful. 

We present a letter of introduction, this morning, to Diim- 
meller & Co. As there is very little of interest in Batavia 
itself, we plan to start for the interior of the island on the 
morrow. Messrs. Dummeller & Co. give us much informa- 
tion in regard to our proposed inland journey, and, after some 
further conversation, we call at the adjoining office of the 
American Consul, P. Mckerson, Esq., of Boston. As we enter 
the consulate, we remark the absence of the American flag. 
Mr. Nickerson tells us that, at the special request of the Dutch 



JAVA TO CEYLON. 201 



government, no foreign flag is displayed by the different con- 
suls; for the Dutch wish the natives to continue to believe 
that the Dutch flag alone is the emblem of power throughout 
the world. 

In the afternoon we visit the large museum, where may be 
seen a collection of ancient Javanese gods, weapons, agricultu- 
ral utensils, and so forth. In the evening we go to the opera. 
It is the opening night of a French company which has re- 
cently arrived. The theatre is not large, but is excellently 
ventilated and well-lighted. The orchestra is satisfactory, and 
the scenery is passable. Many ladies are present in full 
evening dress. A black frock or cut-away coat seems to be 
considered sufficient by the gentlemen, and our swallow-tails 
are therefore somewhat conspicuous. The ladies are not re- 
markable for beauty, but the majority are ablaze with jewels, 
and their toilets are as elaborate as one could find in any cap- 
ital of the world. 

The programme bears the following notice: " Avec la per- 
mission de M. le Resident" The first piece performed is "Le 
Chalet"; this is followed by the excellent little opera "Les 
Noces de Jeannette." 

November 16. — A railroad connects Batavia with Buiten- 
zorg, distant thirty-seven miles. We leave Batavia at half 
past seven and reach our destination at ten o'clock. Buiten- 
zorg, besides being itself a place of remarkable beauty, is the 
usual starting-point for Sing-dang-laya and the high moun- 



202 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

tains near by. The Hotel Bellevue at Buitenzorg is built on 
the summit of a hill, and, standing on the back piazza, the 
visitor sees before him one of the most beautiful views that 
the island affords. At the foot of the hill a winding river 
flows between tall groves of cocoa-nut trees, and through the 
very thickest tropical foliage; a cloud-topped mountain rises 
boldly in the distance. On its summit are found the curious 
bird's-nests which are so largely exported for food. 

In the afternoon we visit the extensive gardens of the gov- 
ernor-general. These gardens contain a large assortment of 
tropical plants, a pretty lake, and broad lawns on which sev- 
eral hundred spotted deer wander about. Here is the deadly 
upas, and a large specimen of the rubber-tree. The gov- 
ernor's residence is a spacious white stone building with two 
wide wings running out from the central portion. Several 
paths are for the use of the governor alone, and conspicuous 
signs in Dutch command the visitor not to enter them. The 
palace and grounds are guarded by a garrison of Dutch soldiers, 
and as we walk along we meet that saddest of all proces- 
sions, — a military funeral. To the soldier, in time of peace, 
death in this distant spot must be hard indeed! 

November 17. — We rise at five, and soon are rattling over 
an excellent road in little carriages drawn by three ponies, 
bound for Sing-dang-laya. After travelling for about an hour 
through a well-cultivated country, we stop for breakfast at a 
small town called Gadok. Although the hotel is full of guests, 




iHk 



JAVA TO CEYLON. 203 

no proprietor can be found. The united efforts of our party 
in English, French, Italian, and German fail to obtain any 
response from the different people about the house, and, as 
we do not talk Dutch, we are almost in despair, when at last 
a young man appears who speaks English. This gentleman 
calls a native who seems to be manager-in-chief of the estab- 
lishment, and we are soon properly served. After breakfast 
we continue our way. The road runs for miles through exten- 
sive coffee plantations. At eleven o'clock we stop for tiffin 
at a native inn kept by an old Malay woman called Ma-mina. 
Many travellers stop here in the course of a year, and the old 
woman cooks remarkably well after the Dutch style. Native 
and foreign officials, going to the interior or coming back to 
Batavia, halt for an hour at this inn. The dinner-table is com- 
pletely covered with names and initials, and it is evidently 
the custom of travellers to leave these " footprints on the sands 
of time," in order that succeeding patrons, "seeing, may take 
heart again," when almost despairing over the long delay of 
the meal. 

As we are about to leave, having finished tiffin, a native 
official, with gold-lace on uniform and hat, drives up. Having 
greeted us courteously in his own language, he calls for a 
glass of water. The servant who brings it to him stops with 
the tray at some distance off, and hands the water respectfully, 
bending his body almost to the ground with the most remark- 
able gesture of deference I have ever seen, as if a nearer ap- 
proach would defile the magnate. 



204 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

Leaving the inn we drive on for about a mile and stop at 
a little path which strikes through thick woods, and, having 
left the carriages, we follow a guide up the mountain-path, 
passing through the very ideal of a tropical forest. The foliage 
is so luxuriant that it seems superabundant; the ferns and 
grasses astonish us ; and beautiful vines and masses of exquis- 
ite creepers, winding around the rich trees, bear witness to 
nature's productive power when unchecked by cold and frost. 
This fertility, however, is not confined to the vegetable world. 
Animal life keeps pace with it. Deadly snakes, small creep- 
ing reptiles, and poisonous insects lurk in the depths of the 
most beautiful plants; and man, dwelling in this lovely spot, 
finds himself opposed by multitudes of enemies which the 
very luxuriance of the favored latitude has brought forth. 

After a half-hour's walk we emerge on to the bank of a 
small lake which covers the crater of an old volcano, extinct 
for the past eighty years. The lake is called Te Laga Yarna. 
A wall of exquisite foliage, three hundred feet high, rises 
from its opposite shore. 

Having returned to the carriages, we proceed for about six 
miles, and stop at two o'clock at a little hotel near Sing- 
dang-laya, where we intend to spend the night, in order to 
meet and talk with Mr. Carlo Ferrari, a great sportsman, who 
has lived in Java for many years. "We are sorry to hear 
from Mr. Ferrari that we have come to Java in a very poor 
season for good sport; but he kindly offers to accompany us 



JAVA TO CEYLON. 205 

for a few days if we wish to make an expedition in search 
of a tiger. 

About 11 p. M. a party of native dancers come to the 
hotel and perform to. an interested audience. Three men, 
sitting cross-legged on the ground, furnish the music, which 
consists of a drum, a fife, and a pair of peculiar cymbals. 
A large torch is stuck in the ground, and the dancers, men 
and women, — the latter very strikingly dressed in many- 
colored native cloths, — circle round and round the light to 
the sound of the music, gliding towards each other, meeting, 
bowing low, swaying from side to side, and finally separating 
entirely, all the time chanting a peculiar refrain, which is 
even heard above the shrill and discordant sounds of the in- 
struments. 

Java, as I have said, abounds in deadly insects and rep- 
tiles. Besides the centipedes and scorpions, which are very 
numerous, there is a very dangerous worm, long and thin 
like a horsehair, which crawls into men's ears from pillows 
and elsewhere, and produces deafness and often death by 
its sting. If the worm can be extracted from the ear, no 
serious danger need be anticipated. If it has penetrated too 
far, however, the victim lingers for days in great pain, till 
death ends his sufferings. Large tarantulas are frequently 
found suspended over a bed, and there is a species of wasp 
whose sting causes excessive inflammation. 

To a traveller making a tour into the interior of Java, the 



206 



DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



following Malay words will be useful. They are, of course, 
spelled phonetically : — 



Fork 


> • • • 


Garfu. 


Knife . 


• • • 


. Picho. 


Spoon 


• 


Tsenoch. 


Napkin . 


• • • 


, . Tserbatr. 


Water 


• • • • 


Ire. 


Plate . 


. 


. Peering. 


Bread 


• • • • 


Eoti. 


Rice 


• * • 


. Nasci. 


Egg . 


• • • • 


Tulor. 


Sugar . 


• ■ • 


. Gular. 


Milk. 


« • • • 


Susu. 



November 18. — Two of our party, Mr. U. of New York, 
and our English companion, decide to accompany Mr. Ferrari 
on a tiger hunt. The prospect of sport, however, is so doubt- 
ful and the probability of discomfort so unquestioned, that 

F- and I decline to accompany the others. As the 

hotel at Buitenzorg is far more comfortable than our present 
habitation, and as Mr. Ferrari assures us that we have al- 
ready observed the characteristic scenery of the island, we do 

not wish to travel farther inland. F , however, is anxious 

to ascend a neighboring mountain, and promises to follow me 
to Buitenzorg on the morrow. Bidding farewell, therefore, to 
the two who are to remain in the island, I set out for 
Buitenzorg, which I reach at noon. ■ 

November 19. — F arrives from Sing-dang-laya at 7 P. M., 



JAVA TO CEYLON. 20? 

and we make preparations to return to Batavia early to-mor- 
row morning. 

November 20. — We reach Batavia at ten o'clock this morn- 
ing. Our steamer starts at 8 A. M. to-morrow. The day is 
very warm, and after arranging for our departure, we keep in- 
doors till the cool of the evening renders walking agreeable. 

November 21. — At half past seven we go on board the 
steamer Amboina* bound for Singapore, and think with dis- 
may of the three days that we shall be obliged to pass in 
the hands of the Netherlands Steamship Company. The 
Amboina is fully as uncomfortable as the Banda, and the 
food is even less varied and more disagreeable. 

November 23. — We arrive back at Singapore at 6 P. M., 
after a smooth passage from Java. 

■ November 21^. — I have a long talk with Major Studer, 
American Consul. It is the same old story. His salary is 
hardly sufficient to allow him to live like a gentleman. The 
consulate of the United States of America consists of two 
small rooms in a hotel ! 

November 26. — At 10 A. M. we embark on the fine steamer 
Tigre of the Messageries Maritimes Company. About forty- 
five passengers of different nationalities are on board. We 
start at noon on our voyage of fourteen hundred miles, for 

* As we were in Batavia only for a few hours on our return from the in- 
terior, we were unable to bid farewell to Messrs. Duinmeller & Co., and to 
the American Consul. 



208 DOTTINGS BOUND THE CIRCLE. 



and I intend to leave the ship (which is bound for 



Marseilles) at Point De Galle, to visit some of the chief 
points of interest in Ceylon. 

November 28. — At 5 P. M. we pass Acheen Head, a prom- 
ontory which marks the limits of the Straits of Malacca, 
now the scene of a war between the natives and the Dutch, 
and soon after our ship is rolling from side to side under 
the influence of the long swell of the Indian Ocean. The 
Tigre makes an average day's run of three hundred miles, 
and we expect to reach Ceylon December 1. 

November SO. — A grand concert, vocal and instrumental, 
was given by several of the passengers this evening, in aid 
of a poor Scotch widow who is travelling home with two 
children, whose entire capital consists of two pounds sterling. 
Selections from a few well-known operas were pleasingly 
rendered, after which a magic-lantern amused the company 
for a while, and at . the end of the evening a collection was 
taken up, which amounted to somewhat over twenty pounds, 
— a very god-send to its recipient. The officers deserve great 
credit for their kind efforts, and the performers may well feel 
that they have done a good action. 

December 1. — At eleven o'clock this morning we come in 
sight of the coast of Ceylon, which stretches far away to the 
right. Thick groves of cocoa-nut trees cover the shore for 
miles, and the luxuriant foliage of the land closely resembles 
Sumatra and Java. At 4.30 p. M. we can plainly see, far 



JAVA TO CEYLON. 209 



ahead, the shipping in the harbor of Point De Galle, and soon 
after, having obtained a pilot, we drop anchor off the town, 
just as the guns from the English fort announce the arrival 
of the Prince of Wales at Colombo, a town seventy miles to 
the north. As the steamer rounds the green promontory which 
marks the entrance to the harbor of Point De Galle, a most 
beautiful picture presents itself. On the right, groves of cocoa- 
nut trees, surrounded with thick foliage, afford refreshing shade 
to a little cluster of native huts, which, with their thatched 
roofs, look tropical and primitive. On the left, a tall light- 
house rises boldly from a high ledge of rocks over which the 
sea tumbles and breaks, leaping upwards every little while in 
high clouds of spray. In front lies the town, running from 
the sea-shore to the summit of a hill, and sheltered completely 
behind the guns of the English fort, which cover every ap- 
proach to the harbor. In the distance is Adam's Peak, which 
rises to a height of seven thousand four hundred feet. 

The native inhabitants of Ceylon are Singhalese and Tamils. 
As soon as a steamer comes to anchor it is surrounded by 
multitudes of long, narrow boats called catamarans, each with 
two huge outriggers, to which is attached a thick log, which 
moves along near the surface of the water, and steadies the 
whole craft. Indeed, these canoes are so narrow that, with- 
out this balancing-log, it would be impossible to navigate 
them. 

14 



210 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

CEYLON. 

Point De Galle. — Colombo. — Kandy. — The Royal Apartments on the 
Serapis. — The Preparation of the Coffee-Berry. — The Prince of 
Wales. 

December #. — Point De Galle — so called by the Portu- 
guese when they had possession of the island — contains a 
population of about seven thousand. Besides the beautiful 
scenery in the vicinity, there is very little of interest to the 
traveller. We wish, therefore, to press on to Colombo, but, on 
account of the unexpected arrival of the Prince of Wales, it 
is impossible to obtain places in the regular stage which runs 
between the two towns. The Prince and suite have changed 
their route, owing to reports of cholera from the southern coast 
of India, which they had planned to visit before coming to 
Ceylon. The steamer Socotra, of the British India Steamship 
Company, is fortunately in the harbor, bound for Bombay via 
Colombo, and we promptly engage passage for the latter place. 
As the boat will not start till 5 P. M., we have the day to look 
about us. 

Soon after breakfast we take a carriage, and drive for an 
hour over a fine road running through groves of cocoa-nut 



CEYLON. 211 



and palm-trees, with beautiful ferns and flowers on all sides. 
On our way back we stop at the foot of a hill on whose sum- 
mit stands a large Catholic church. As we are walking up 
the hill on our way to the church, we pass a small school- 
house in which about fifty Singhalese boys are studying Eng- 
lish and the usual elementary branches under the care of a 
benevolent-looking old gentleman, himself of Singhalese de- 
scent. As we pause a moment at the door, the old gentleman 
comes out and invites us politely to step in and witness a reci- 
tation, — an offer which we gladly accept. The class is en- 
gaged in a reading-lesson, and the old master, placing us 
behind his desk, — on which lies a pliant rattan, — hands us 
the book, — the Third Eeader, — and opening at the well- 
known story of Solon and Croesus, calls on the head boy to 
begin. The Singhalese boys read very correctly and intelli- 
gently, and at the conclusion of the exercise the master exam- 
ines them on the subject-matter of the lesson. Although 
several of his questions touch on broad principles of ethics, 
the boys show excellent appreciation of the text, one bright 
little fellow doing uncommonly well. Soon after this we take 
our leave, and having visited the new church, we return to 
the hotel. About five o'clock we go on board the Socotra, 
which starts immediately for Colombo. 

December 3. — At five o'clock this morning we come in 
sight of Colombo, and at seven o'clock we anchor off the 
town, within a stone's throw of the steamer Scrapes, which is 



212 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

carrying the Prince of Wales on his travels. The Serapis 
and the companion steam-yacht Osborne lie inside of a half- 
circle of English gun-boats which attend them, — the Un- 
daunted, Raleigh, Narcissus, Immortalite, and Newcastle. 

We call a native boat and are rowed quickly ashore. On 
landing at the jetty we find it completely decorated in honor 
of the Prince's arrival. The whole wharf is one mass of flags, 
mottoes, and insignia, placed on a background of green plants 
in which various kinds of fruits have been cleverly entwined. 
Tall green arches span the streets, each proclaiming the town's 
welcome to the Prince, and declaring the people's loyalty to 
the royal family. All the chief buildings bear gayly painted 
sentences of welcome, " God bless the Prince of Wales," " Wel- 
come to Albert Edward," and so forth. The day is a holiday, 
no business is transacted, crowds fill the streets; and although 
the Prince left this morning for Kandy (seventy-four miles 
inland), the enthusiasm does not seem to have abated. The 
hotel is packed with a mass of thirsty Englishmen, all calling 
for the cooling brandy and soda to which they are so accus- 
tomed at home; and the popping of soda-water bottles, min- 
gling with the many different voices, produces an absolute 
din. We succeed, however, in obtaining rooms at "royal 
visit prices," and, as we are too late to catch the afternoon 
train to Kandy, we spend several hours in walking about 
Colombo. 

Colombo, the capital of Ceylon, is situated on a peninsula, 



CEYLON. 21 3 



surrounded on three sides by the sea. It has a popula- 
tion of one hundred and twenty thousand. The town con- 
tains many fine business blocks and large warehouses. The 
residence of the governor, Eight Honorable W. H. Gregory,* 
is especially noticeable. Outside the walls are the dwellings 
of the Dutch and Portuguese. On the right of the town is 
the Pettah, or black town, occupied by the natives. To the 
left stretches a beautiful beach, over a mile long, beside which 
runs an excellent carriage-road. Colombo is well garrisoned, 
and several batteries face the sea. The climate of Ceylon is 
very warm, but much cooler than that of Java. 

December 4- — At 2 P. M. we drive to the railroad station, 
and soon are on our way to Kandy. The railroad was started 
in 1859 by the late governor, Sir H. Ward. It runs through 
the thickest vegetation of the island, and for twelve and a 
half miles ascends an incline of one in forty-five, rising to 
an altitude of seventeen hundred feet at a station called Kadu- 
ganava. The journey to Kandy occupies nearly five hours. 
This time is required, as the train must go very slowly for 
the last third of the way. The cars wind over mountains, 
through long tunnels, and along the verge of appa ently inac- 
cessible heights, from which one can look far down into the 
valleys below. Indeed, this portion of the line somewhat re- 
sembles a part of the Central Pacific Eailroad of California. 
The day is rainy, and we can look down on to the tops of 



* Now Sir W. H. Gregory. 



214 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

large clouds which are floating over the valleys beneath us. 
On each side of the road is a sort of fence, recently constructed, 
formed of plants with different fruits placed at little distances 
apart ; and every station is hung with flags and mottoes, wel- 
coming the Prince of Wales, who yesterday passed over the 
road with his suite. 

We reach Kandy at seven o'clock in a pouring rain; and 
as all the carriages are engaged elsewhere by the crowds who 
have followed the Prince, we are obliged to hire two Singha- 
lese to carry our valises, and we ourselves, having borrowed 
a native umbrella, follow our guides to the hotel. 

On our arrival at the Queen's Hotel (a wretched inn, an 
outrage on the name it bears), we learn that the Prince has 
departed for an elephant hunt, farther inland, and will not 
return to Kandy, but is to be received by the people of Co- 
lombo next Monday afternoon. To-day is Saturday, so we 
decide to spend Sunday in Kandy, and return to Colombo in 
time to witness the passage of the Prince through that city 
on his way to open the Agricultural Grounds. 

December 5. — Kandy, the old residence of the native kings 
of Ceylon, is situated in a valley surrounded by beautiful 
hills, and on the bank of a small lake. It now contains 
many European dwelling-houses and public buildings. The 
governor's palace, the library, and the English church are the 
most important. It contains a population of ten thousand. 
Yesterday, in the old Hall of the Kings, the descendants of 



CEYLON. 215 



the conquered princes paid homage to the son of their 
queen. 

After breakfast we visit "Lady Horton's Walk," a wide 
path which winds up a neighboring hill, from whose summit 
a fine bird's-eye view of Kandy may be obtained. From here 
we go the Dalada, or the Temple of the Tooth, a curious 
Buddhist structure, built to protect a veritable tooth of the 
great Buddha, which is here carefully preserved by the priests. 
This tooth is only exhibited once a year at a great religious 
festival ; and though it was yesterday brought out for the in- 
spection of the Prince of Wales, it has already been returned 
to its secluded resting-place, and the priests refuse to exhibit 
it to us. The Temple of the Tooth is a curious piece of archi- 
tecture and well worth a careful study. 

December 6. — We take the seven-o'clock train for Colombo, 
which, on account of the numbers who have come to Kandy 
to see the Prince and are now returning, is unusually long 
and crowded. Twenty-eight cars and two engines — the long- 
est train ever on the road — toil slowly down the mountain, 
and it is fully one o'clock — an hour and a half behind 
time — when we reach the station at Colombo. 

On our arrival at the hotel we find that the Prince is 
delayed in camp, and will not enter Colombo till to-morrow 
afternoon. 

After lunch we walk to the sea-shore, and engage a ca- 
tamaran, and balancing ourselves on its narrow seat, we order 



2l6 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the Singhalese to row us out to the Serapis, the Prince's 
ship. As soon as we set foot on board, we send our cards 
to the officer of the deck with a request to be permitted to 
visit the "royal apartments." A polite and affirmative an- 
swer is at once returned, and a seaman is detailed to conduct 
us to the door of the Prince's dining-room and put us in 
charge of the Prince's steward, who alone has charge of the 
apartments during the absence of the royal party. 

The steward conducts us first over the dining-room. This 
is a large apartment in the stern of the ship, luxuriously 
furnished, out of which lead several smaller chambers, two 
of which are for the exclusive use of the Prince. The din- 
ing-room contains a beautiful table and handsome sideboard. 
All the furniture is marked with the Prince's crest and the 
letters A. E. The steward leads us around the table, saying, 
"The Prince of "Wales sits there, the Duke of Sutherland 
there, Sir Bartle Frere here," and so on. Passing now into 
the parlor (which is, indeed, only separated from the dining- 
room by a mast of the ship), we see before us a large picture 
of the Queen, and near by a most beautiful one of the Prin- 
cess of Wales. Around the room are fine maps, and on the 
tables are the latest books upon India and Ceylon. A mail 
has evidently been lately received, for a score of letters are 
lying on a little secretary, the majority of which are directed 
to Sir Bartle Frere. 

Our guide shows us next through the private apartments 



CEYLON, 217 



of the Prince. "We examine with interest his famous swivel- 
bed. In his little parlor adjoining is an Indian dagger, cov- 
ered with jewels, which was presented to the Prince by some 
native ruler. Books and pamphlets of travel and science are 
scattered about, showing that the royal visitor endeavors to 
post himself thoroughly in regard to the different countries 
he is passing through. 

Having paused a moment in the room of the Duke of 
Sutherland, we follow our conductor to the smoking-room. 
This apartment is a gem. It is situated on the main deck, 
elegantly furnished, and enclosed by large plate-glass windows, 
which command an extended view in all directions. Having 
retraced our steps to the outer door of the dining-room, we 
are again put in charge of the seaman who has waited for 
us, and the steward instructs him to show us over the other 
portions of the ship. 

We visit the stables where the fine horses of the Prince 
are kept. Each animal has his name painted over his stall. 
Near by are the cattle and poultry for the use of the Prince, 
and opposite is the kitchen where his own food is specially 
prepared. 

After examining the quarters of the regular officers and 
seamen of the vessel, we take our leave, and return to Co- 
lombo. Viewed from the water, the Serapis presents a huge 
appearance; but it is necessary to walk through the ship and 
examine it in detail, before a just idea of her immense ca- 
pacity can be formed. 



2l8 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

December 7. — In company with Captain V. Hoskioer, of 
the Koyal Danish Engineers (our fellow-passenger on the 
Tigre from Singapore, and bound also to Calcutta), we visit 
this morning an old Hindoo temple of most curious architec- 
ture, situated in the Pettah. This building is well worth a 
visit, but seems to be little known by the European inhabi- 
tants. Erom here we drive to the large coffee warehouses of 
Armitage Brothers, and are very politely shown over the 
establishment by the overseer, who explains fully, as we walk 
about, all the details of the process required to bring the 
coffee into a condition for market. The coffee-berries are 
first spread out over large "barbecues," — wide, flat surfaces 
hardened with asphalt, — to be dried by the sun; after which 
they are placed in a sort of mill called a "peeler," where 
large wheels strip off the two skins that cover each berry, — 
the outer skin and the silver skin. When these have been 
removed, the coffee-berries are thrown into "feeders," which 
blow away all dust and chaff that remains, after which 
"sizers" receive them. These "sizers" are sieves of different 
sizes which separate the large berries from the small, and also 
remove any gravel or foreign matter that may have become 
mixed with them. 

When all these operations are finished, the coffee is placed 
in bags, and is once more poured out, to be examined by 
native women whose business it is to search for and remove 
all imperfect berries that can be found. This being done, 



CEYLON. 2ig 



the coffee of the best quality is ready for the market. The 
imperfect berries, however, are collected together and sold also, 
but of course at a much lower price.* 

On our return to the city we go to the office of the British 
India Steamship Company to inquire about the Calcutta steam- 
er. The office, however, is closed, and the agents have very 
carelessly omitted to put up a notice in regard to their boat. 
On inquiring at the post-office we are told that the steamer 
has arrived, and is to leave in half an hour, and that the 
mails have just been sent aboard. This seems conclusive, so 
we return at once to the hotel, give up our rooms, and hav- 
ing placed our luggage in charge of coolies, make our way 
in company with Captain Hoskioer to the wharf. Having 
engaged a boat at "royal visit prices," we spend half an hour 
in the fierce tropical sun endeavoring to find the steamer 
Patna, which we finally discover has not yet arrived in the 
harbor! We are obliged to return to the hotel (after en- 
gaging another squad of coolies for the trunks), and we arrive 
there hot and tired, only to find that our places have been 
filled by others. The head steward, however, very kindly 
gives us his room, and we accept it with thanks, being en- 
tirely upset in our arrangements by the neglect of the agent 
to inform us of the steamer's movements. 

* The total product of the coffee crop of the world for 1874 is estimated 
at about 900,000,000 pounds, of which amount the United States imported, 
in 1875, over a third, or 317,970,665 pounds. 



220 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

The Prince of Wales has returned to Colombo, having left 
his hunting-grounds at an early hour this morning, and at 
half past four this afternoon he is expected to pass through 
the city to open an agri-horticultural exhibition, for which 
great preparations have been made. The decorations along 
the streets, which were erected in honor of his landing, have 
been added to and improved; new arches have been built, 
fresh greens have been placed here and there, and everything 
possible has been done to make the second welcome even 
more cordial than the first. By three o'clock the street lead- 
ing from the governor's house (where the Prince resides dur- 
ing his visit) to the Agricultural Grounds is lined with 
thousands of people, Europeans and natives, all eager to see 
the Prince as he passes by. A remarkable crowd it is ! 
Here one can see a group of Singhalese or Tamils, in the 
very scant costume of their race, side by side with a little 
knot of Londoners in frock-coats and tall hats; while near 
by are some native women in all the glory of silk dresses, 
Indian shawls, and bare feet! Police inspectors gallop up 
and down, thunder angrily at natives who straggle through 
the lines, and endeavor to hide their excitement and embar- 
rassment in the heights (rather than the depths) of their 
pith helmets. At last, at about five o'clock, four lancers 
appear, followed by two carriages, in the foremost of which, 
dressed in cool light garments and surrounded by some of 
his suite, sits the Prince of Wales, raising his hat from time 



CEYLON. 221 



to time in response to the cheers which greet him on all 
sides. The immense concourse of natives, however, do not 
utter a sound. The outspoken welcome comes entirely from 
the Europeans. The Singhalese and Tamils gaze wonderingly 
at the Prince's carriage, look into each other's faces, and 
turn half disappointedly away. A gentleman in the crowd 
who understands the Singhalese language discovers the cause. 
The natives (who associate great outward adornment with the 
name of prince) expected that the son of their Queen would 
come to them in a gorgeous chariot, with a crown of gold on 
his head, and arrayed in splendid robes. Instead of this 
he appears like any other of their European masters. Their 
hearts are loyal to him, but their eyes are not satisfied. 



222 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER XV. 

CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 

NEGAPATAM. — PONDICHERRY. — MADRAS. — MaSULIPATAM. — COCONADA. — 

vlzagapatam. — blmlipatam. — gopolpore. — false point. — diamond 
Harbor. — Arrival at Calcutta. 

December 8. — The steamer Patna, bound for Calcutta, ar- 
rives early this morning. We go on board at noon with 
Captain Hoskioer, and at two o'clock bid farewell to Ceylon. 

December 11. — At noon to-day we sight the southern coast 
of India, and at one o'clock our ship drops anchor off Negapa- 
tam, a place of very little interest to the traveller, which came 
into the possession of the English in 1783. Having received 
a little cargo, brought from the shore by natives in large, 
clumsy scows, we continue our way. 

December 12. — At daybreak this morning we arrive at 
Pondicherry. This town is the capital of the French East 
Indian territory. It is situated eighty-eight miles south of 
Madras, and has a population of thirty thousand. Our ship 
is to receive the Erench governor, and carry him to Madras 
to pay his respects to the Prince of Wales, who is now on 
his way thither. As the governor will not embark till evening, 
we have ample time to land and examine the town. Calling 



CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 223 

a native boat, we are soon set down on a fine beach, near which 
runs a hard, wide avenue. The town itself is well laid out 
and pleasantly situated, its excellent roads being especially 
noticeable. We find here hotels, caf^s, an opera-house, a 
Catholic cathedral, forts, a dock-yard, and lighthouse. The 
governor's residence is in the centre of the town, and is a 
spacious building. Multitudes of little carriages are about 
the streets, propelled by natives from behind, and used here as 
the ji^irikisha in Japan. This vehicle is called a pushpush. 

At noon we return to the steamer, and at five o'clock a 
salute from the fort announces the departure of the governor 
for our vessel. Soon a large row-boat comes alongside, with 
the French flag at bow and stern, and the governor, — a pleas- 
ant-looking old gentleman, — his aide-de-camp, private secre- 
tary, and several servants, leaving the boat amid " tossed oars," 
are received at the gangway by our captain (himself an old 
naval officer) with all due etiquette and ceremony. In a few 
moments we are under weigh. 

December 13. — At five o'clock this morning we anchor off 
Madras, and, early as it is, the governor of Pondicherry, in full 
court dress and accompanied by his suite, leaves the steamer, 
and is rowed quickly ashore by the servants of one of the 
English officials. It is necessary for him to land thus early, 
as the Prince of Wales is expected to arrive at the railroad 
station at eight o'clock, and the governor is one of the Com- 
mittee of Keception. 



224 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

A resident of Madras, who comes aboard our steamer, tells 
us of an amusing mistake recently made by the English offi- 
cials in regard to the arrival of the governor of Pondicherry. 
It was believed in Madras that the governor would take pas- 
sage in the regular mail-boat of the French Messageries Mari- 
times Company. When that vessel appeared, therefore, two 
days ago, a salute was fired from the English fort, and a com- 
pany of soldiers were drawn up on the wharf in readiness to 
receive the governor. Soon a little boat left the steamer and 
was rowed rapidly towards the town. On its arrival a gen- 
tleman stepped out and walked slowly up the steps of the 
wharf. The soldiers presented arms, the commanding officer 
advanced respectfully, and the cannon roared from the town. 
The gentleman who had just landed was evidently surprised. 
Pausing near the commanding officer, he raised his hat with 
a polite and interrogating "Monsieur?" The Englishman in 
his turn was mystified. Then, suspecting some mistake, he 
said, " Are you not the governor of Pondicherry ? " 

"No, sir," replied the stranger in excellent English, "I am 
the purser of yonder vessel, and his Excellency is not on 
board." The cannon ceased quickly, the soldiers retired, and 
all Madras laughed. 

Madras, formerly called Port St. George, is the capital of 
the Madras presidency, and contains a population of four hun- 
dred thousand, of whom four thousand are Europeans. Ma- 
dras is distant seven hundred and sixty-four miles from 



CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 22$ 

Bombay and one thousand and sixty-two miles from Calcutta. 
An immense number of vessels arrive at Madras in the course 
of a year, and the yearly imports and exports of the city aver- 
age eight million pounds. 

Calling a Masullah boat, we are rowed skilfully through the 
high surf to the beach. The town presents a very gay ap- 
pearance. All the chief buildings are hung with flags and 
adorned with mottoes of welcome to the Prince of Wales, 
and the streets are filled with crowds of natives and Euro- 
peans eager to catch sight of his Koyal Highness. Great 
arches have been erected, similar to those in Ceylon, but more 
elaborate and costly. Our steamer is to remain till afternoon, 
and we have the morning before us. Taking a carriage we 
visit some of the chief objects of interest in the city. "We 
drive first to the People's Park, a large public garden con- 
taining an extensive menagerie. Here are monkeys of all 
kinds, lions, panthers, leopards, wild-cats, hyenas, a tiger, and 
a rhinoceros. From the gardens we proceed to the Central 
Museum, founded in 1851, which contains a large collection 
of ancient Indian stone work, old agricultural implements, 
and extensive ornithological cabinets. After lunch we visit 
a large Juggernaut car. The English have forbidden the na- 
tives to use them as of old.* On our return to the steamer 
we find our passenger-list considerably increased. Among the 

* In a bookstore in this city we found for sale Dr. John Todd's Student's 
Manual. 

15 



226 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



late arrivals is Mr. Ashbury, M. P., and the Marquis of Kil- 
dare, eldest son of the Duke of Leinster, grandson on his 
mother's side of the second Duke of Sutherland, and grand- 
nephew of Lord Francis Egerton. 

December H. — The sea is very high to-day, and our ship 
runs through frequent storms of rain. At 7 P. M. we anchor 
off Masulipatam, three hundred and fifteen miles north of 
Madras. This town was taken by the English in 1759. The 
place contains no harbor, and the neighboring waters are so 
shallow that steamers are obliged to lie nearly three miles 
from land. 

December IS. — We remain off Masulipatam till 4 P. M., while 
our steamer is unloading and receiving cargo. 

December 16. — We reach Coconada, our next stopping-place, 
at 8 A. M. Coconada, situated near the Godavery River, con- 
tains a population of eighteen thousand. Its harbor is rapidly 
filling up with immense quantities of silt, brought down by 
the river. Continual dredging is necessary, and even now 
steamers are obliged to anchor nearly four miles from land. 
A canal, ninety miles long, joins the neighboring deltas of 
the Godavery and Kistna Rivers. Coconada contains exten- 
sive cigar manufactories and castor-oil works. 

Our steamer is to remain till evening, and several of us 
engage a large native boat and sail to the town, the voyage 
occupying over an hour. Ascending the canal for a short 
distance, we disembark at the house of the agent of the 



CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 227 

British India Steamship Company, who also is the American 
Consul. This gentleman receives us very politely, furnishes 
us with a guide to conduct us over the cigar and castor-oil 
establishments, and kindly invites us to tiffin with him on 
our return. Leaving the agent's house, we follow our guide 
to the cigar manufactory near by, where we are shown the 
different processes of cigar-making. Afterwards, we visit the 
castor-oil works. All the details of this business are fully 
explained to us, and we see the oil itself pouring out from 
the press in which the beans are placed, and running into 
large casks. After a thorough boiling it is ready for shipment. 

After tiffin we engage carriages, and drive to a large Hin- 
doo temple about four miles distant, which, in its outward 
adornment, is ample evidence of the religious sanction which 
was given to debauchery of the wildest description. 

On our return to the town we find the Steamship Company's 
steam-launch about to start for our vessel, and we are thus 
saved a long and tedious cruise in a native boat. At mid- 
night we resume our course. 

December 17. — At noon to-day we anchor off Vizagapatam, 
four hundred and ninety-one miles from Madras. The town 
is built at the base and on the side of a hill, near the sum- 
mit of which is a curious mosque. The inhabitants adorn 
boxes and other articles with porcupine quills, which they 
offer to strangers. 

Proceeding on our way we reach Bimlipatam at six o'clock. 



228 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

This town is sixteen miles from Vizagapatam. It contains 
little of interest to the traveller. 

December 18. — At 4 p. M. we leave Bimlipatam and con- 
tinue our journey. 

December 19. — At four o'clock this morning one of the 
passengers rouses me, and we go on deck, where we obtain a 
line view of the constellation of the Southern Cross. At 
eight o'clock we anchor off Gopolpore, a small settlement in 
a sandy plain. "We go ashore and spend an hour at the 
bungalow of the Steamship Company's agent. 

December 20. — We reach False Point at noon to-day ; and 
after taking on board several passengers and a small amount 
of cargo, we leave for Calcutta. 

December 21. — At 5 P. M. we come to anchor in the 
Hooghly Eiver off Diamond Harbor, thirty miles from Cal- 
cutta. We are obliged to lie here all night, as the tide will 
not allow us to ascend the river till to-morrow. 

December 22. — We continue our voyage at daybreak, and 
soon are meeting continually steamers and sailing-vessels 
bound in all directions. The Hooghly runs for one hundred 
and twenty-five miles from the Ganges to the sea. At its 
mouth its width is eight miles. Above Diamond Harbor, 
however, it is not more than three quarters of a mile wide. 
In several places the shores are quite high and picturesque. 
At ten o'clock we pass the palace of the King of Oudh, who 
is kept here as a political prisoner by the English. The 



CEYLON TO CALCUTTA. 229 

buildings are lofty and the grounds extensive. After turn- 
ing around a little bend in the river just above the palace, 
we come suddenly among a fleet of vessels, representing, I 
may almost say, all nations. The amount of shipping around 
us is astonishing! Soon, as our steamer picks her way care- 
fully along, we see ahead, above the multitudes of masts, the 
tall spires and domes of the buildings in the city ; and higher 
up the river, the wide bridge across the Hooghly, thronged 
with men, horses, and vehicles, gives us the final assurance 
that we have arrived at one of the great commercial centres 
of the world. 

I cannot take leave of the Patna, in which I have trav- 
elled so long, without offering my grateful acknowledgment 
to Captain Street for the uniform kindness and attention 
which he showed us, and for his continual efforts to make 
the voyage pass pleasantly, — a result which I can assure 
him he accomplished. 

On landing at Calcutta, we go at once to the Great Eastern 
Hotel, and find accommodation awaiting us, as we have tele- 
graphed for places several days previously, knowing that the 
arrival of the Prince of Wales (who is to reach Calcutta to- 
morrow) will produce the usual crowd and confusion. This 
settled, we drive to our bankers for our letters (which await 
us in goodly numbers), and afterwards set out to present sev- 
eral letters of introduction. The Prince of Wales (as I have 
said) is expected to-morrow, and the streets are full of arches 



230 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

and festoons of welcome, and grand preparations are on foot 
for the illumination which is to take place Christmas eve. 
Besides this, large placards announce the holiday attractions 
of Calcutta's three theatres, and I see the veteran actor 
Charles Matthews advertised to appear in several of his 
specialities. 

Soon after our return to the hotel, General Litchfield, the 
American Consul, comes to our room and invites us infor- 
mally to dinner. We pass a very pleasant evening at the 
consulate, and are very glad to meet again Generals Upton 
and Forsythe and Major Sanger, with whom we crossed the 
Pacific and from whom we parted in Japan. 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 23 1 



CHAPTER XVI. 

CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 

Christmas Eve in Calcutta. — Illumination in Honor of the Prince of 
Wales. — Benares. — The Ghats and Temples. — Burning the Dead. 

— SArnath. . 

December %3. — Calcutta (called so from Kali, a goddess ; 
and Cuttah, a temple) is situated on the west bank of the 
Hooghly, about one hundred and ten miles from the mouth. 
The place has been in the possession of the English since 
1664. The middle of the city is in the form of a square, 
with the Maidan, or Park, in the centre. Here is Govern- 
ment House, the residence of the Viceroy. Near by is the 
Town Hall, Hospital, Court House, and the new Post Office, 
the latter situated on the site of the famous Black Hole. The 
native quarter is thickly inhabited, and contains bazaars, 
Hindoo pagodas, and Mohammedan mosques. 

At the north end of the town are jetties for sea-going 
steamers. The streets of Calcutta are wide and clean, and 
the whole city, including the native quarter, is excellently 
drained. The entire population amounts to one million, of 
whom twenty thousand are Europeans. The thermometer 
rarely falls below 52°, and seldom exceeds 100°. 



232 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

The leading English papers published in Calcutta are The 
Friend of India, The Englishman, The Indian Daily Nexus, 
The Calcutta Observer, The Indian Public Opinion, The Chari- 
vari. Besides these there are several native papers and 
periodicals. 

The residence and grounds of the Viceroy occupy twelve 
acres. Here are statues of Wellesley, Dalhousie, and Har- 
dinge. Near by is a column to the memory of Sir David 
Ochterlony. Across the Maidan is Fort William. The city 
is well lighted with gas, and reservoirs at Barrackpore furnish 
an ample supply of water. 

Calcutta possesses many colleges, a University founded in 
1857, and the Imperial Museum, where the Industrial Exhi- 
bition of 1869 was held. One third of the entire trade of 
India is done in the city of Calcutta. 

After breakfast this morning we visit Eort William, and 
are greatly pleased with the excellent barracks provided for 
the soldiers. After a walk through Eden Gardens we return 
to the hotel, and find a ticket awaiting us, kindly sent by 
General Litchfield, admitting us to Prinsep's Ghat, where the 
Prince of Wales is to land at four o'clock this afternoon. 
As F is suffering from a severe cold, and as I am en- 
gaged to dine at six o'clock with a Boston merchant, we do 
not make use of it. 

December 2£. — The Prince of Wales arrived yesterday after- 
noon, and the streets are crowded with natives and Europe- 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 233 

ans, hurrying this way and that, and the authorities are 
giving the last touches to the various parts of the coming 
illumination. Countless rows of little glass lamps, of various 
colors, full of cocoa-nut oil, have been suspended on every 
public building; all the private dwelling-houses are likewise 
adorned; and the tall arches covered with emblems, the fre- 
quent transparencies that are to be seen in all directions, 
and the masses of lamps and gas-jets wreathed in different 
devices, all assure a most brilliant effect. It has been ar- 
ranged that the Prince and party shall leave Government 
House at dusk, and drive through the principal streets to 
witness the illumination; and as soon as the Prince is well 
on his way, all other carriages may follow in procession. 

General Litchfield has most kindly offered F and me 

seats in his carriage; and as F is unfortunately unable 

to leave the hotel on account of his cold, I walk out, about 
half past five, in company with Dr. Von Scherff, a gentleman 
who is making a tour of the world, and we make our way 
past a long line of vehicles filled with a most brilliant as- 
semblage, waiting for the royal party to appear. We soon 
find the carriages of General Litchfield. In the large barouche 
are seated General Litchfield and wife, Generals Upton and 
Forsythe, and Judge M'Crae of California. Boom is found 
here for Dr. Yon Scherff, and Major Sanger and I take seats 
in the little brougham behind. 

It is now dusk, and we have hardly taken our places, 



234 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

when, through the rapidly increasing darkness, the different 
buildings begin to shine out with their broad borders of light. 
The effect is magnificent ! The evening is perfectly calm and 
still; hardly a breath of air is stirring; and as building after 
building rises forth out of the darkness, — all the doors and 
windows and roofs indicated by dazzling lines of light, — we 
seem to be gazing on some strange aerial city whose houses 
are mere outlines, like imaginary geometrical figures utterly 
devoid of substance. 

Promptly at six o'clock the Prince and suite drive by, 
followed by a company of Sepoys in brilliant uniforms, rid- 
ing at full gallop with drawn swords. After waiting about 
ten minutes, all the carriages fall into line, and we drive for 
over an hour through the principal streets, lined with myriads 
of wondering natives, past countless brilliant devices, and 
building after building all ablaze with light. The rich cos- 
tumes of Indian princes, the jewelled trappings of their 
horses, the handsome equipments of the native soldiers, and 
the curious costumes of the common people, all combine to 
form a scene from fairy-land, a picture from the Arabian 
Nights ! 

Calcutta is remarkably well situated for an exhibition of 
this sort. The city contains so many broad, open squares, 
that the manv tall buildings when illuminated can all be 
seen to good advantage, and at the same time the eye can 
take in the general effect of the whole. It is hard to say 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 235 

where the most pleasing results were produced, but I think 
it is generally conceded that the new Imperial Museum out- 
shone everything else. This tall building is not yet com- 
pleted, but the deficiency was temporarily made good by the 
erection of a skeleton mansard-roof, which was hung with 
rows of lamps. The front of the structure bore in large 
letters of light, "God bless the Prince of Wales." The 
Ochterlony monument seems to me to deserve the next 
place. The base was surrounded with rows of lamps ; a single 
string of lamps was wreathed gracefully round the column 
from bottom to top, like a circlet of roses ; and two brill- 
iant electric lights blazed forth from the little gallery at the 
summit. 

After witnessing the illuminations, we drive to the house 
of one of the leading American merchants, to spend the re- 
mainder of Christmas eve. Nearly all the Americans in the 
city are present. Soon after twelve we wish each other a 
"merry Christmas," and perform a solemn toast to our distant 
friends. 

Since my arrival in Calcutta I have been frequently to the 
American Consulate, and have had considerable conversation 
with General Litchfield in regard to it. The building is of 
good size and well situated. Indeed, it is the least objection- 
able of any consular residence that I have yet seen. The 
establishment, however, needs a large staff of servants. Cal- 
cutta contains so many English, and other foreigners, that 



236 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

social festivities are very frequent. Travellers from all parts 
of the world arrive constantly, and the representatives of their 
countries must entertain them at least to some degree. In 
short, the city holds such an important position, politically 
and commercially, that all nations should give their chosen 
representatives full power and means to administer their in- 
terests in the best possible way. General Litchfield informs 
me that the salary of the consulate is quite insufficient to 
enable him to discharge the various social obligations which 
are continually arising. 

0, for our country's sake, may future travellers find a 
change! Legislators who vehemently support propositions of 
retrenchment in the consular service think, no doubt, that 
they are working the United States a benefit by thus effecting 
a " saving." I have seen with my own eyes that the country 
loses the money fifty times over. When a congressman gives 
his vote for* such a measure, he is doing incalculable harm, 
not only to the consular body itself, but also to every citizen 
of the United States who values his country's reputation in 
foreign lands. 

December 25. — Christmas day ! and everything about us 
like summer. What is Christmas without snow? There can 
be no Santa Claus here for children, no sleigh-rides, no softly 
falling flakes which cover all unsightly spots and make the 
earth look clean and pure. Such festivals must make the 
dwellers in this distant land Ions all the more for home. 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 237 

At 7 A. M. I join, by appointment, several American gentle- 
men whom I met last evening, who have promised to show 
me some "jungle riding." I am furnished with a large Aus- 
tralian horse. The others, similarly mounted, lead the way. 
Off we dash, straight into the jungle, across ditches and low 
walls, which are easily cleared by my companions, but which 
demand a style of riding which I have never practised in 
America. However, I manage to keep up with them fairly 
well, and we return about ten o'clock, after a very enjoyable 
airing. 

F and I have decided to push on to Benares. There 

is but little in Calcutta of peculiar and special interest to the 
traveller. Benares, the most holy city in India, teems with 
curiosities. General Litchfield has kindly offered to procure 
us tickets for the ball at Government House, and for the 
approaching Chapter of the Order of the Star of India. To 
witness these we shall be obliged to remain here another week. 
Dr. Von Scherff starts to-night for Benares, and we are glad 
to accompany him. Having therefore bade farewell to our 
kind friends, we drive across the river to the Howrah station, 
and leave Calcutta on the night mail at half past ten, on the 
East Indian Bailway. 

December 26. — We rush along all day at a tremendous 
speed, past small villages and broad fields stretching far away 
on either side. We pass great numbers of fat snipe and wild 
pigeons, which are very tame, and which do not seem to be 



238 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

at all disturbed by our rattling express. Great hawks, too, 
perched on the telegraph-poles, look at us half sleepily, as if 
certain of not being interfered with. At every station sev- 
eral natives walk up and down by the cars, shouting, " Panee, 
panee" (water). The accommodations on the East Indian 
Eailway might be far better. Even the first-class coaches are 
dirty and uncomfortable. 

After a tiresome day's travel, at six o'clock we reach a sta- 
tion called Mogul Serai, where it is necessary to change cars 
for Benares, which is six miles distant on a branch road. 
Having shifted our various parcels, we start again in about 
an hour ; and when we have safely accomplished five miles of 
the six, our engine breaks a connecting-rod and the train 
comes to a stand-still. We are told by the guard that an- 
other engine has been telegraphed for, but it is not probable 
that it will arrive before an hour. As we feel sure we can 
accomplish the remaining distance in much less time on foot, 
we leave the train and walk into Benares, like the countless 
pilgrims who annually visit its holy precincts. We have 
hardly reached the station, however, when the train slowly 
draws up, the engine having in some way recovered itself. 
We take carriages (garees), and crossing the Ganges on the 
Bridge of Boats, are soon installed at Clark's Hotel. 

December 27. — Benares is situated on the left bank of the 
Ganges, four hundred and seventy-five miles, by rail, from 
Calcutta. Its population amounts to about one hundred and 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 239 

seventy -four thousand. It is regarded by the natives as the 
most holy city in India. Multitudes of pilgrims flock to Be- 
nares annually, and aged priests, expecting soon to die, hasten 
hither to rest their bones in the city's sacred soil. Indeed, 
men guilty of the foulest crimes believe that a visit to Benares, 
and a solemn worship at some of its numberless shrines, will 
bring forgiveness for their sins and will assure the safety of 
their souls hereafter. 

As far back as the middle of the sixth century Benares 
must have been a city of importance in many ways ; for it 
was to the Tsipattana Vihara, or monastery, now called Sar- 
nath, that Shakyamuni, the Great Buddha, came at that time, 
and, seating himself under a tree, preached for the first time 
the famous doctrines of Dharma and Nirvana, which have 
been since embraced by four hundred millions of people. 
Before this period Benares was the centre of Hindooism and 
chief seat of its authority. "Benares is a city of no mean 
antiquity. Twenty-five centuries ago, at the least, it was fa- 
mous. When Babylon was struggling with Nineveh for su- 
premacy, when Tyre was planting her colonies, when Athens 
was growing in strength, before Eome had become known, or 
Greece had contended with Persia, or Cyrus had added lustre 
to the Persian monarchy, or Nebuchadnezzar had captured 
Jerusalem, and the inhabitants of Judaea had been carried 
into captivity, she had already risen to greatness, if not to 
glory. Nay, she may have heard of the fame of Solomon, and 



240 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

have sent her ivory, her apes, and her peacocks to adorn his 
palaces; while partly with her gold he may have overlaid 
the Temple of the Lord."* 

Soon after breakfast we engage a guide and make our way 
to the Man-Mandil Ghat and ascend some steps near by 
which lead up to the Observatory, erected by Eaja Jay Singh 
towards the end of the seventeenth century. On our way we 
pass several ancient idols, some being in the form of monkeys 
representing the god Hanuman. A flag floats from the top 
of a high staff near by, in honor of the Eaja of Jeypore, — • 
the present proprietor of this part of the city, and the descend- 
ant of Eaja Jay Singh. In the lane leading from the Ghat 
is the temple of Dalbhyeswar, the god who controls the rain. 
The image is at the bottom of a cistern in the middle of the 
temple; for the people believe that the god must be con- 
tinually drenched with water if a favorable answer is expected 
to their prayers for rain. This deity is also known as the 
Poor Man's Friend, and it is said that needy men, by visiting 
his shrine, will have their wants relieved. The great poverty 
throughout the city is an unfavorable evidence of the power 
of the god. Near by is Sitala, the goddess of small-pox. 

On entering the Observatory, the first instrument we see 
is the Bhittiyantra, or Mural Quadrant, which consists of a 
wall eleven feet high and nine feet one and a quarter inches 
broad, in the plane of the meridian. This is used to ascer- 

* Rev. M. A. Sherring, M. A., LL. B. 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 241 

tain the sun's altitude and zenith distance; also the sun's 
greatest declination, and the latitude of the place. Near by 
are two large circles, one made of stone, the other of lime; 
and also a large stone square. It is said that these were used 
for the purpose of ascertaining the shadow of the gnomon 
cast by the sun, and the degrees of azimuth ; but every mark 
upon them is destroyed. 

Another immense instrument is called Yantrasamrat (prince 
of instruments), the wall of which is thirty -six feet in length 
and four and a half feet in breadth, and is set in the plane 
of the meridian. One extremity is six feet four and a quarter 
inches high, and the other twenty-two feet three and a half 
inches. By this instrument the distance from the meridian, 
the declination of any planet or star, and the sun, and the 
right ascension of a star, may be discovered. Here, also, is a 
double mural quadrant, and, to the east, an equinoctial circle 
of stone. At a little distance off is the Chakrayantra, an in- 
strument used for finding the declination of a planet or star. 
Near this is another large instrument called Digansayantra, 
by which the degrees of azimuth of a planet or star may be 
found. To the south is another equinoctial circle. 

Having inspected the Observatory, and returned to the 
Man-Mandil Ghat, we procure a boat and are rowed slowly 
along in front of the vast number of curious buildings which 
rise from the various Ghats to a height of fifty or sixty feet, 
and contain five, six, and sometimes seven stories. This view 



242 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

of the city from the river is picturesque to the highest de- 
gree. The different towers, temples, mosques, and palaces, 
of Hindoo and Saracenic styles, stretch along the river- 
bank, and rise to the summit of a lofty cliff over a hundred 
feet high. In the holy waters of the Ganges hundreds of 
people are bathing; while others, who have performed their 
morning ablutions, are worshipping at some of the numerous 
shrines in the vicinity, or are conversing with pious Brah- 
mins, — called Sons of the Ganges, — who, seated under im- 
mense palm umbrellas, exhort the people or expound theo- 
logical dogmas. Near our boat a dead body is floating 
slowly along on the surface of the water, and a greedy 
vulture, perched upon it, is tearing it to pieces with evident 
enjoyment. Opposite, on the shore, a family is making prep- 
arations to burn a father or brother lately deceased; near 
by several stone altars mark the spot of the now abolished 
suttee. 

Looking at this varied scene, as our boat glides slowly 
along with the current, we involuntarily forget the present, 
and are transported in thought into the past. Here modern 
progress does not seem to be known. The presence of the 
railroad and telegraph is forgotten; steamboats may never 
have been ; we are witnessing peculiar rites and ceremonies, 
which have been continued by generation after generation 
for hundreds and hundreds of years. 

In regard to the dead body floating down the Ganges, the 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 243 

explanation is easy. When a poor man dies, if his family or 
friends cannot afford to purchase wood for his burning (which 
is very expensive), they singe the upper lip or the face of 
the dead, and throw the body into the Ganges. It is firmly 
believed that the body of the dead must have some contact 
with fire, or the soul will not be at rest. This became so 
frequent, that the English government were obliged to forbid 
it for sanitary reasons; but in spite of the prohibition the 
nuisance still continues to some degree. 

We stop our boat opposite the Burning Ghat, where, close 
to the water's edge, the dead are burned. We have arrived 
at the beginning of the funeral ceremonies of a man. The 
body, wrapped in white cloth, is carried by the relations on a 
rude litter, and is thrust, feet foremost, into the muddy waters 
of the Ganges. When it has been completely submerged in 
the sacred stream, the cloth over the face is removed, and a 
relative carefully shaves the deceased. After this, it is placed 
on a funeral-pyre, and wood is piled around and over it. 
The nearest relative then takes a large handful of straw and 
light twigs, and kindling the bunch at the sacred fire kept 
ever burning by the Domra near by, he walks slowly round 
and round the corpse, touching it on the forehead each time 
as he passes, in token of farewell. Having circled it thus 
for five times, he thrusts the torch amongst the loose wood 
of the pyre, and soon after the whole mass is in a blaze. 
When the body is consumed, the ashes are scattered in the 



244 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

Ganges, and the soul of the departed is at rest. The crema- 
tion of women is similar, in general, to the above, but a 
colored cloth is always used to cover the body. Leaving our 
boat, we proceed to Manikamik&, the famous Hindoo well. 
It is said to have been dug by the god Vishnu with his 
discus, and the deity, instead of water, filled it with the per- 
spiration of his own body, and called it Chakrapushkarini. 
Soon after, the god Mahadeva arrived, and, looking into this 
well, beheld in it the beauty of many suns, which so de- 
lighted him that he promised Vishnu to grant him whatever 
gift he might desire. Vishnu replied that his wish was that 
Mahadeva should always reside with him. Mahadeva was so 
pleased with this request, that his body shook with joy, and 
from the violence of the motion an ear-ring called Manikar- 
naka fell from his ear into the water of the well. From this 
occurrence the well is called Manikarnika\ On each of the 
four sides of the well is a series of steps leading down into 
the water. The seven lowermost steps are said to have been 
made by the god, and to be without juncture; and although 
several joinings are visible, it is held by the Brahmins that 
these are only superficial, and do not penetrate the stones. 
In a niche on the north side is a figure of Vishnu; and on 
the west side, near the mouth of the well, is a row of six- 
teen little altars on which pilgrims lay offerings to their 
ancestors. The water of this well is believed to possess the 
power to wash away every sin. It is a stagnant pool, full 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES, 245 

of waste and decay, and the odors which constantly arise 
from it are sickening. The sinner, descending the steps, 
throws some of the liquid over his body, and comes forth 
forgiven. Even murderers are thus fully absolved from their 
guilt. 

Our guide next shows us a large round slab, called Cha- 
rana-paduka, which projects from the pavement. In the 
middle of it is a stone pedestal, the top of which is inlaid 
with marble, and contains two indentations, which are said 
to be the impressions of the feet of the god Yishnu when 
he alighted to worship the god Mahadeva. 

From here we make our way past Sindhia Ghat and the Eaja 
of Nagpore's Ghat (the former of which is continually sinking 
into the bed of the river), and then, re-entering our boat, we 
are rowed to Panchganga Ghat, where we dismiss it. This 
Ghat is often thronged with pilgrims, for it is believed that 
five rivers meet at this spot, although only one can be seen. 
We ascend the Ghat, and arrive at the lofty mosque of 
Aurungzebe. This is the highest building of the city, and 
its tall tapering minarets invariably arrest the eye. These 
minarets, eight in number, are one hundred and forty-seven 
feet in height (reckoning from the floor of the mosque), and 
eight feet in diameter at the base. They lean fifteen inches 
from the perpendicular. They were originally some fifty feet 
higher than they now are, but they were shortened in conse- 
quence of exhibiting signs of weakness and insecurity. From 



246 DOTTINGS BOUND THE CIRCLE. 

the summit of one of the towers we obtain a fine view of 
Benares and its suburbs. 

Leaving the river-bank, we push our way through the 
narrow streets, thronged with natives of all castes, — all 
with curious marks on their foreheads, placed there daily by 
the priest of the temple at which they worship, — past vener- 
able Brahmins, and numbers of sacred bulls who wander 
hither and thither unchecked. Indeed, travellers are foolish 
if they endeavor to hinder them, for the bulls are believed 
to be deities, and to oppose a deity would soon create great 
disturbance. After five minutes' walk, we enter the principal 
business street, called Purana Chauk, and make our way to 
the store of Baboo Debi Parsad, to inspect his extensive 
stock of shawls and cloths, magnificently embroidered with 
gold and silver. Proceeding, we enter the long narrow street 
called Chauk-hambha, where beautifully enchased vessels of 
brass and copper are to be found. 

We finish the morning with a visit to the Nepalese Temple, 
which rises from the banks of the Ganges not far from the 
Man-Mandil Ghat. This temple is so peculiarly Indian, that 
it is utterly unfit for a lady to visit. 

After tiffin we set out again, and visit first the elephants 
of the Raja of Vizianagram, whose palace is in Benares. We 
are told by our guide that if we will send our cards to the 
Raja's secretary, we shall be permitted to ride one of the 
elephants ; but we have so much else to accomplish, that we 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 247 

decline. We proceed first to the temple at Durga Kund. 
The neighboring buildings, the temple grounds, and the walls 
and housetops in the vicinity literally swarm with monkeys. 
These are believed to be gods and goddesses, and are care- 
fully fed by persons specially appointed. Before we reach 
the temple grounds, multitudes of them come scampering along 
the wall, and, sitting clown in a line, chatter at us in token 
of welcome. We stop at the entrance-gate to purchase a 
few handfuls of grain, and, passing in, we are soon surrounded 
by the diminutive proprietors. What a nuisance they must 
be in the neighborhood! Indeed, the magistrate of Benares 
removed a large number of them to the jungle, a few years, 
ago. It is said that they steal constantly in all directions^ 
and injure the surrounding property in various ways. The 
whole place is given up to these creatures, and they certainly 
seem delighted with their lot. 

We now retrace our steps to the city, and stop at the 
famous Well of Knowledge, called Gyan Kup, in which, as 
the natives believe, the god Shiva resides. Multitudes visit 
this well, and cast in flowers and other gifts, and the odor 
which comes from this putrid mass is disgusting. We soon 
after arrive at the Golden Temple, or Bisheshwar, dedicated 
to the god Shiva, whose image is the lingum, a conical stone 
set on end. The god of this temple is the supreme deity of 
Benares, and holds sway over all other gods in the city. 
The dome and tower are covered with thin plates of gold, 



248 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

spread over thick plates of copper overlaying the stones be- 
neath. This decoration was furnished by the late Maharaja 
Eunjeet Singh of Lahore. The temple itself was built by 
Ahalya Bai, Maharanee of Indore. 

Passing once more through the narrow streets of the city, 
we next visit the famous Well of Fate, called Kal-Kup. In 
the roof of the temple which surrounds this well is a square 
hole, and the rays of the sun, passing through this opening 
at twelve o'clock, strike upon the water in the well below. 
At noon, multitudes of people visit the well; and any who 
cannot trace their shadows in the fatal water will surely die 
within six months from that instant. " The general igno- 
rance respecting the explanation of this daily phenomenon 
does not speak much for the scientific knowledge of the 
Hindoos, or even for their common-sense."* As the after- 
noon is now far advanced, we return to the hotel for dinner. 

December 28. — Soon after breakfast we set out for the 
famous ruins at Sarnath, situated about four miles from the 
city. These ruins are universally believed to be portions of 
buildings erected in the sixth century before Christ, and they 
are said to have been standing during the early ministry of 
the Great Buddha. These ruins consist of two towers, — 
situated about half a mile apart, — and of walls and founda- 
tions of other structures, which have been lately excavated. 
"The great Stupa, called Dhamek, is a solid round tower, 

* Rev. M. A. Sherring. 



CALCUTTA TO BENARES. 249 

ninety-three feet in diameter at base, one hundred and ten 
feet in height above the surrounding ruins, and one hundred 
and twenty-eight feet above the general level of the country. 
The foundation or basement, which is made of very large 
bricks, has a depth of twenty-eight feet below the level of 
the ruins, but is sunk only ten feet below the surface of the 
country." * 

There is one other tower at Sarnath. It is situated about 
two thousand five hundred feet to the south of Dhamek, and 
was once called Chaukandi, but is now called Lori-ki-kudan, 
or Lori's Leap, for a Hindoo named Lori leaped from its 
summit and killed himself. The ruin consists of a mound 
of solid brick work, seventy-four feet in height, on the top 
of which is an octagonal building twenty-three feet high, 
built to commemorate the ascent of the mound by the Em- 
peror Humayun, son of the great Baber, who began his reign 
a. d. 1531. 

We return to the hotel for tiffin, and at 2 p. M. we leave 
Benares on the Oudh and Kohilkund Kailway, bound for 
Lucknow. 

* For full information in regard to this interesting ruin, see Keport of 
Major-General Cunningham, printed in the Journal of the Asiatic Society of 
Bengal, Volume XXXII. 



250 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

LUCKNOW, CAWNPOKE, AND DELHI. 

Lucknow." — The Eesidency, and the Mutiny Days of 1857. — Curious 
Buildings. — Cawnpoee. — Wheeler's Entrenchment and the Slaugh- 
ter Ghat. — Delhi. — The Fort and Palace of the Moguls. — The 
Jama Musjid. — The Kootub. — A Nautch Dance. — The Story of 
the Siege. 

December W. — "We reach Lucknow at half past six this 
morning, after a most uncomfortable night on the road. The 
outer air was very cold, and the " accommodation " in the 
first-class cars scarcely deserves the name. We drive at 
once to Hill's Hotel. The cold is intense, the atmosphere is 
excessively damp and penetrating, for the sun has not yet 
risen. Hill's Hotel is kept in a large rambling building built 
by Nasir-ud-Din Haidar for the son of his Prime Minister, 
Eoshan-ud-Daulah, who was Commander-in-Chief of his Maj- 
esty's army. The dining-room is long and lofty, and bears 
traces of elaborate decoration. 

Lucknow is situated on the banks of the Gumti, a river 
which empties into the Ganges beyond Jampur. The city is 
about three hundred and fifty feet above the level of the 
sea. It is distant seven hundred and eighty-one miles from 
Calcutta by rail, and contains a population of two hundred 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 25 1 

and seventy-three thousand ; it extends over thirteen square 
miles. 

Lucknow was founded by the Hindoos. In A. D. 1160 
the city was captured by Sayad Salar, a Mohammedan. The 
modern town contains three quarters, — the native portion, 
built by Akbar the Great in the middle of the sixteenth cen- 
tury ; the court suburb, built by Asoof-ud-Dowlah in 1775 ; 
and lastly, to the north and west, the country-houses of the 
ex-king (deposed in 1856, and now confined at Calcutta), 
the residences of the English officials, and the cantonments 
of the troops. 

Immediately after breakfast we procure a guide and pro- 
ceed to the ruins of the Eesidency, situated about half a 
mile from the hotel. This is one of the most historically 
interesting spots in India, and stands as an unchanged me- 
mento of the mutiny of 1857 ; bearing witness at once to 
deeds of the most heroic courage and endurance, and to suf- 
ferings rarely equalled in the history of the world. 

The native revolt did not spread to Lucknow till the 29th 
of June. On the morning of that day Sir Henry Lawrence 
learned that a body of rebels was advancing upon the city, 
and on the following morning a picked portion of the gar- 
rison marched out to meet them. This force consisted of 500 
infantry, 40 mounted volunteers, 120 native troops, a detail 
of artillery manned by native gunners, and an eight-inch how- 
itzer drawn by an elephant. Having marched six miles from 



252 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the city, the Englishmen were astonished to find a complete 
army, composed of an irresistible force of all arms, drawn up 
in order of battle. The native artillerymen, on the side of the 
English, at once deserted their guns ; the howitzer was imme- 
diately captured by the enemy ; the small British force was 
speedily surrounded ; Colonel Case of the Thirty-second and 
nearly a hundred of his men were killed ; and, but for the 
continual efforts of the mounted volunteers, and the strange 
omission on the part of the enemy to seize or destroy the 
Iron Bridge, every man would have been slain. One hundred 
and seventy-two Europeans were killed or wounded, including 
thirteen officers, — more than half the entire number, — and 
the survivors had scarcely time to blow up the Machi Bhawan 
Eort, when they found themselves completely besieged in 
the grounds of the Residency. The siege began on the 1st 
of July. The garrison consisted of nine hundred and twenty- 
seven Europeans, and seven hundred and sixty-five natives, 
two hundred and thirty of whom soon deserted. On the 
4th, the brave Lawrence expired, killed by a shell thrown 
from his own lost howitzer, which entered a room in the 
Eesidency where he was writing a despatch. The sufferings 
of the besieged were terrible. Deaths occurred from day to 
day. When, on the 26th of September, Havelock arrived to 
their relief, the entire garrison numbered only eleven hun- 
dred and seventy-nine, the loss having been chiefly among 
Europeans. Of nine officers of the Bengal artillery, five had 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 253 

fallen ; eleven ladies and fifty-three children had been slain, 
or had died of sickness and privation ; and from this time 
till the 17th of November (the date of the final relief by 
Sir Colin Campbell), one hundred and twenty-two more of the 
old garrison and four hundred of Havelock's men died. The 
ladies and non-combatants left on the 19th of November; and 
on the night of the 22d, the Eesidency and grounds were 
evacuated in silence, and the different positions on the road 
to the Dilkusha abandoned in turn. On arriving at the Dil- 
kusha the women were hospitably received, the sick were 
tenderly nursed, and here poor Havelock, worn out with 
care and fatigue, soon after died, leaving Sir James Outram 
to watch the rebels in the Alum Bagh. Sir Colin Campbell 
conducted the survivors in safety to Allahabad, which they 
reached on the 7th of December. 

The above is a hurried narration of the bare facts ; but it 
is impossible for the pen to fill out the sad picture. " Gaz- 
ing to-day upon the peaceful garden-scene, one cannot realize 
the terrors and tumult of those frightful months. One must 
be content with imagining the roar of artillery and the rattle 
of small arms, kept up incessantly from before sunrise for 
more than three hours daily by an investing swarm of a 
hundred thousand relentless savages ; the lull of the weary 
noonday ; the resumption of hostilities in the long afternoon 
at a season when Europeans in India are wont to shield 
themselves from the depressing glare or plunging rain, and 



254 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

rest within cool houses ; the sallies, the rallies, the mines 
and countermines ; the explosions of roofs, the downward 
rushes of crumbling masonry ; and, worst of all, the slow 
decay of wounds and epidemics, sustained in crowded rooms, 
amid a plague of flies, with insufficient food ; finally, the in- 
cessant monotony of daily funerals. Small-pox was prevalent ; 
women brought forth children only to bury them ; Pole- 
hampton, the chaplain, after being shot through the body, 
died of cholera, which seems to have been chronic, especially 
among non-combatants ; officers were on several occasions 
shot by the sentries inadvertently ; some few even committed 
suicide. But despair was the exception ; and the general en- 
durance deservedly received the admiration of the world."* 

Leaving the main road, we pause at the gate of the Eesi- 
dency, called the "Baillie Guard," from Colonel Baillie, one 
of the old British Eesidents, who built it as a defence to the 
Eesidency in the early part of the present century. The 
stones of the archway are riddled with shot and shell, bear- 
ing witness to the fierce and incessant cannonade which was 
poured upon the whole place. Passing in, the large ruined 
building on the right is the Eesidency proper, in which 
Lawrence received his death-wound. In the cellars under- 
neath many women and children lived during the whole 
siege. Adjoining is a watchtower where man after man was 
shot down. On the left is Dr. Fayrer's house, the under- 

* H. G. Keene's Handbook to Lucknow. 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 255 

ground rooms of which also harbored women and children. 
These buildings, with the exception of portions of the walls, 
are completely battered to pieces. Near by is a cross 
erected to the memory of Sir Henry Lawrence. This monu- 
ment is very unsatisfactory in itself, and, considering that 
the whole place as it stands to-day is a glorious remembrance 
of the hero, this little decoration, perched on the highest hill 
in the grounds, is unnecessary and in bad taste. 

To the north stood the Eedan battery which commanded 
the Iron Bridge (already mentioned). This was held through- 
out the whole siege by Lieutenant Lawrence of the Thirty- 
second Foot. The next house was occupied by Mr. Martin 
Gubbins, C. S., and was defended by Major Ashton, Forty- 
first N. I. Near by is the Brigade Mess-house, and, to the 
right, the famous Sikh Square, blown up by the rebels. 

We now come to the Cawnpore battery. This was exposed 
to the hottest fire of the enemy, and was considered so dan- 
gerous that it was held by volunteers, or by men detailed 
from day to day according to the roster. A neighboring post 
was guarded by sixty-five boys from the Martiniere school. 

In the adjoining cemetery rests Lawrence. His tombstone 

bears the following inscription: — 

Here Lies 

Henry Lawrence 

Who tried to do his duty.* 

May the Lord have mercy on his soul. 

Born 28 June 1806. Died July 4 1857. 

* These were his last words. The succeeding sentence seema out oi' plaee. 



256 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

Leaving the Eesidency we call a garry and are driven to 
Hosenabad. Passing under a curious gate, built in trie Sara- 
cenic style, we enter a large quadrangle, at the upper end of 
which is the main building. This is a large edifice with pol- 
ished marble floor and vaulted dome. It contains a great 
collection of mirrors, chandeliers, and all sorts of glittering 
ornaments. To the left is a white building intended as a copy 
of the famous Taj of Agra. 

From here we proceed to the Lall Baradari. This was the 
Public Hall of Eeception of the old native rulers. On the 
death of the old King Nasir-ud-Din, in July, 1837, the Queen 
Dowager declared that a youth named Munna Jan was the 
heir to the throne. This the British denied, and insisted that 
the succession devolved upon the uncle of the late king, an 
old man named Mahomed Ali. The Queen Dowager and the 
pretender, accompanied by multitudes of followers, entered the 
Lall Baradari and ascended the throne. The English com- 
mander, Colonel Low, with his soldiers, surrounded the build- 
ing, and sent word to the Begum that if the hall was not 
evacuated in fifteen minutes the soldiers would be ordered to 
storm the premises. No notice of this was taken, and a com- 
pany of the Thirty-fifth dashed into the hall. As they ad- 
vanced with fixed bayonets they saw themselves reflected in 
a large mirror hanging behind the throne, and, believing that 
an opposing band was charging towards them, they poured a 
fierce volley into the looking-glass. This put the mob to flight. 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 2$7 

The Begum and her protegtf were arrested and the old uncle 
was proclaimed king. To the Lall Baradari, also, came Lord 
Canning to meet the Talukadars of Oudh, and to announce 
to them the forgiveness of the Queen of England and the terms 
of their future allegiance. 

We visit next the curious Chattar Manzal, or Umbrella-house, 
so called from a grotesque gilt ornament which crowns the 
summit. This was the harem of the King Nasir-ud-Din. In 
the time of the mutiny it was surrounded by a high wall, 
which was originally intended to secure the retirement of its 
inmates. During Havelock's advance it was the scene of a 
severe cannonade. The best rooms are now used for the United 
Service Club, the Theatre and Assembly Eooms, and the 
Public Library. 

We now arrive at the Kaisar Bagh. Passing under a gate 
over which are the double fish, the family arms of the founder, 
we cross a court-yard and soon reach the group of buildings 
erected in 1850 by Wajid Ali Shah, at a cost of eight hundred 
thousand pounds sterling. As to the architecture, the effect 
of the whole is spoiled by the gaudiness of the decorations. 
Mr. Keene calls it "a stucco Louvre, in which Italian and 
Moorish styles blend in a manner that is more grotesque than 
graceful; and where gilding and ochre and whitewash tend 
to give a strange appearance of the theatre to the 'residency' 
of this Oriental Gerolstein." 

We visit now the Kadam Basul, a plain tomb-like struc- 



258 i DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

ture covered with a dome. It is called Kadam Kasul, or 
Apostle's Step, from the fact that it is said to contain a stone 
marked with the sacred footprint, and brought from Mecca. 
It was built by the first king of Oudh, Ghazi-ud-Din Haidar. 
In the mutiny it was held first by the rebels, but was cap- 
tured without difficulty by General Campbell. Our guide 
thus laconically describes the scene : " English out of sight, 
rebels walk about; English come up, rebels run away." 

Continuing our way we reach Sikandar Bagh, a large walled 
enclosure called after the Sikandar Begum. To the right of 
the gate is a place where the wall was breached during the 
advance of Sir Colin Campbell, on the 16th of November, 
1857. The Ninety- third Highlanders, with some British and 
Sikh Infantry, rushed in and bayoneted the enemy. Near 
by is Wingfield Park, called after Sir Charles Wingfield, M. P., 
a former Chief Commissioner. 

"We next visit the Martiniere. This is the former residence 
of General Claude Martin, a native of Lyons, who, after a 
very varied career, died in Lucknow in 1800, leaving over 
four hundred thousand pounds, the larger portion of which he 
bequeathed to the cities of Lucknow, Lyons, and Calcutta, for 
the foundation of schools. General Martin also left special 
directions that his tomb should be erected in one of the apart- 
ments of this building, knowing that Musulmen would then 
never violate the premises. His body rests in a vaulted 
chamber in the basement. The building is used as a boys' 



259 

school. It is a large and curious structure, with numerous 
statues on the outside. In front, near a lake, is an Ionic 
column. 

The Dil Kusha, or Heart's Delight, is our next stopping- 
place. This was built for a residence by the Nawab Saadat 
in the early part of the century. It was captured from the 
rebels in 1857 by Colonel Hamilton of the Seventy-eighth. To 
this place (as I have said) the rescued garrison were carried 
from the Eesidency. 

We finish our tour of the city by visiting the Alum Bagh. 
This was erected by King Wajid Ali as an occasional residence 
for a favorite wife. It consisted of a large pavilion and several 
adjoining buildings.' It was captured by Havelock from the 
rebels on the 23d of September. It then became a convales- 
cent depot. Here Havelock was buried; and here Sir James 
Outram remained, after it was found necessary to evacuate 
Lucknow, till the final relief in March, 1858. 

On our way back to the hotel we walk through the prin- 
cipal business street of the town. Here we find several arti- 
cles for which the place is noted, — caps and slippers exquis- 
itely embroidered in gold and silver, and a pattern of " bangles " 
which is only produced in this city. 

We leave Lucknow at 8 P. M. and reach Cawnpore at mid- 
night. 

December SO. — Cawnpore is situated on the Ganges Eiver, 
six hundred and eighty-four miles from Calcutta and forty- 



260 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

two miles from Lucknow. It contains a population of one 
hundred and sixteen thousand. It is now an important mili- 
tary station, and carries on an extensive trade. A railroad 
bridge over the Ganges is soon to take the place of the pres- 
ent bridge of boats. 

The story of Cawnpore in the mutiny days will always 
give a sad but deep interest to the place. 

In the year 1852, Bajee Eao, the last Peishwa of the 
Mahratta confederacy, died, leaving all his property to his 
adopted son, Dhoondoo Punth, commonly called Nana Sahib. 
The government of Lord Dalhousie, however, at once an- 
nounced that the titular dignity had ceased, and, though 
Nana Sahib should inherit the property, the pension and 
official salute of the Peishwaship would be discontinued. 
For the next five years Nana used every effort to change 
this decree, and, smarting under a sense of wrong, he heard 
of the outbreak at Delhi with joy, and, being on intimate 
terms with the English, knew that he was in a position to 
obtain as complete revenge as his long-continued and un- 
noticed injuries seemed to demand. 

On the morning of the 6th of June, 1857, the native 
troops mutinied and marched out to Kalianpur, the first 
stage on the Delhi road, evidently with the intention of 
eventually joining the main body of mutineers. The English 
garrison, under the command of Sir Hugh Massey Wheeler, 
consisted of the following force : one battery of six guns, with 



LUC KNOW, CAW NP ORE, AND DELHI. 26 1 

fifty-nine men ; sixty of the Eighty-fourth Infantry ; seventy- 
four invalids of the Thirty-second ; and fifteen of the First 
Madras Fusiliers. The native troops consisted of the Second 
Cavalry, the First, Fifty-third, and Fifty-sixth N". I., and the 
native gunners attached to the battery. The entire European 
population numbered seven hundred and fifty souls. 

Sir Hugh Wheeler took his followers, combatant and non- 
combatant, into a refuge that he had prepared for them in the 
depot-barracks, standing where the new church is now built. 
These consisted of two long barracks of one story each, each 
built for the accommodation of one company. One was 
thatched, both were surrounded with verandas, and the 
inner walls were of brick, a foot and a half in thickness. 
Around this shelter a trench 'was dug, and the earth thrown 
up to form a parapet about five feet in height. The guns 
pointed through openings, and were entirely without protec- 
tion. The whole place was about two hundred yards square, 
and was armed with ten field-pieces of different calibres. 
Provisions had been obtained calculated to last for thirty 
days. 

It was now the Nana's turn. Although he had been for 
the last few years continually petitioning for a restoration of 
his predecessor's honors, he had always used such tact that 
the English, so far from regarding him as an enemy, put 
him in charge, at this critical period, of the arsenal, magazine, 
park, and treasury! Thus extraordinarily favored by fortune, 



262 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

his revenge was easy. Following the rebels who had de- 
parted to Kalianpur, he quickly persuaded them to return 
and attack the British at once, instead of proceeding to their 
fellow-mutineers at Delhi. On the very day that Sir Hugh 
Wheeler entered the entrenchment, the Nana declared his 
rebellion. Summoning an overwhelming body of natives, he 
surrounded the little band of Europeans on all sides, and 
formally opened the siege on the 7th of June. 

For three dreadful weeks the little garrison struggled on. 
With many sick and dying, without medicines or hospital 
stores, and short of ammunition, they were subjected to a 
continual bombardment from without, and to hunger and dis- 
tress within. The brave men, however, did not suffer them- 
selves to be simply besieged. Many sorties were made, and 
several of the enemy's guns were spiked and captured. 
Deaths, however, occurred frequently. Men, women, and 
children sank under the prolonged sufferings; and when, on 
the 26th, the Nana offered to treat, the survivors accepted 
the proposition. 

It was agreed that the Europeans should depart, under 
the Nana's escort, to Allahabad, and boats were provided to 
convey them thither. The scenes that followed are well de- 
scribed by Keener "On the fatal morning of the 27th of 
June, the survivors proceeded to embark. It is not possible 
to dwell upon the events connected with this episode with 
calmness. The facts far exceeded all that the imagination 



LUC KNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 263 

could conceive. Immediately on the embarkation of the de- 
luded and now helpless people who left the enclosure in the 
early dawn of the morning, there followed the most dastardly 
piece of treachery that has perhaps ever been perpetrated. 
Only a portion of ' the party had taken their places in the 
boats, when, by previous arrangement, the boatmen set the 
thatched coverings of the boats on fire, and rushed on to the 
bank. A heavy fire of grape and musketry was then opened 
on the Europeans. Out of thirty boats, two only managed to 
start ; one of these was shortly swamped by round-shot, but 
its passengers were enabled to reach the leading boat. Of 
those on board the other twenty-eight boats, some were killed, 
some drowned, and the rest brought back prisoners. Of the 
fugitives who quitted their weak position but a few hours, 
before, only fifty had contrived to escape for the time, though* 
it was in the case of the larger portion only to die shortly- 
after. The boat they occupied was under an incessant gall- 
ing fire from both banks, but it pursued its course till it 
grounded at the distance of six miles. All the night of that 
eventful and trying day continued the struggle for' life; amid 
hopes and fears of which we can form but a very slight con- 
ception. Early on the following morning the miserable occu- 
pants of the frail bark managed to push on till the boat 
again grounded. They were again attacked, and a number 
were killed; but the assailants were driven off, and retired 
to Cawnpore. The Nana then immediately despatched two 



264 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

complete regiments in pursuit. As it was found impracticable 
to move the boat, a party of fourteen landed to drive back 
their assailants, which they did most effectually. Of these 
fourteen but four survived, — one now Colonel Mowbray 
Thompson, — to tell 'the story of Cawnpore'; those left in 
the boat were brought back and shared the subsequent fate 

of all the others At last came the order to cease from 

slaughter, and the miserable survivors were driven off." 

How different the scene of this massacre, as it lies before 
us to-day ! The little temple near the water's edge (near 
which was the ambush) still stands, riddled with bullets, as 
if bearing witness to the dastardly deeds ; near by, however, 
are several neat bungalows ; the Ganges flows peacefully 
along on its course ; natives are leading cattle to drink in 
its waters ; a party of boatmen are chanting their peculiar 
monotone as they endeavor to pull their boat out of the 
stream ; and the calm quiet and serenity which seem to per- 
vade the spot are greatly in contrast to the rattle of artillery, 
the groans of the wounded and dying, and the exultant 
shouts of the treacherous natives, the remembrance of which 
will always bring a pang to every civilized nation in the world. 

On the site of Wheeler's entrenchment now stands the 
Memorial Church. This edifice is in the Komanesque style, 
and is built of brick and stone in the form of a cross, with 
a tapering belfry at one end. The interior contains a beau- 
tiful wheel-window and one or two memorial windows : and 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 265 

many tablets are placed on the walls, erected to different 
victims of the mutiny. In short, the church is both pleasing 
and displeasing; satisfactory in part, and yet disappointing 
in several details. It was originally intended to defray the 
cost by private subscription, but a large portion of it has 
been paid by the government. H. H. the Maharaja of Jodh- 
pur has contributed white marble slabs for the flooring of 
the chancel; a handsome brass lectern has been given by 
Mrs. W. C. Plowden; and the employes of the East Indian 
Railway have presented a sum of money in memory of those 
of their body who fell in the siege. 

Two tablets in the interior of the church should be men- 
tioned ; one for its peculiar sadness, the other for its appro- 
priateness. The first reads : " In memory of Mrs. Moore, 
Mrs. Wainright, Miss Wainright, Mrs. Hill, forty-three sol- 
diers' wives, and fifty-five children murdered in Cawnpore in 
June, 1857." The other tablet commemorates the death of a 
score of officers and soldiers, and underneath it are the words, 
"Vengeance is mine, I will repay, saith the Lord." 

The last act in the Cawnpore tragedy remains to be told. 
Of all the multitude that started down the river in boats, 
four only, as I have said, escaped. The other survivors were 
driven to the quarters of the Nana. The women and chil- 
dren were placed for the time in a building called the 
Savada Kotee; the men were shot on the parade-ground. 
About ten days later there was a general move nearer the 



266 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

town. The Nana took up his quarters in a house used as a 
hotel ; the women and children, with some officers who had 
been lately captured elsewhere, were put into a house near 
the bank of the river, called Beebeeghur. Coarse food and 
furniture were given them, and the women were ordered to 
grind corn. 

Here they remained till the 15th of July. The sufferings 
of these poor creatures can only be imagined. A Bengalee 
apothecary attended them for a few days, and his journal 
(afterwards found) proves that births and deaths were fre- 
quent among them. A thorough subsequent investigation 
satisfied the English officials, however, that dishonor was not 
added to the other horrors of those fearful days. 

On the 11th of July, the prisoners were joined by other 
unfortunates. Colonel Smith of the Tenth N". I., with a party 
of refugees of both sexes, was captured the day before at 
Bithoor, passing down the river in a boat from Futtehgurh. 
These, to the number of fifty-five (chiefly women and chil- 
dren), were put in the palace at Bithoor for the night. On 
the next day they were obliged to march over twelve miles 
in the fierce sun, to receive sentence from the Nana at 
Cawnpore. Colonel Smith and Judge Thornhill, with the 
women and children, were thrown into the Beebeeghur, already 
crowded with the other captives. The rest of the men were 
immediately shot. 

The Nana's triumph, however, was nearly over, and he 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 267 

signalized the close of his power by one of the most fright- 
ful acts of vengeance that has ever been chronicled in his- 
tory. Soon after the capture of Colonel Smith, the English 
obtained possession of Futtehpore. On the morning of the 
15th, a fresh disaster to the natives occurred at Aoung. The 
news of the steady advance of the avenging British was 
brought to the Nana early in the afternoon of the same day. 
The Nana and his suite gathered in council to determine 
what disposition should be made of the prisoners. The mat- 
ter was soon decided ; the captives were to be put to death. 
At sundown four of the male prisoners were (at the special 
order of the Nana) taken out of the Beebeeghur and murdered 
on the high road. Then the general slaughter was begun. 
Volleys were first fired into the Beebeeghur through the doors 
and windows; and then the savages, rushing in among the 
captives with drawn swords, completed the fiendish massacre. 
At length the work was finished, and the doors were closed. 
The Nana was living in an old hotel within fifty yards of 
this house. It is said that he ordered a nautch, and passed the 
night in feasting and revelry. At daybreak he ordered the 
Beebeeghur to be cleared. It is estimated that it contained 
nearly two hundred dead bodies. These were stripped, and 
the majority cast into a well near by. The remainder were 
hurled into the Ganges. 

Mr. Sherer, who arrived at Cawnpore soon after the sup- 
pression of the rebellion, says in his report : " Thence we 



268 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

were directed to the Beebeeghur and well. And then "broke 
upon our eyes that dreadful spectacle, over the very idea of 
which there are still broken spirits and widowed hearts 

mourning terror-stricken in distant England There 

were no dead bodies, except in the well. The well was 
narrow and deep ; and, looking down, you could only see a 
tangled mass of human limbs entirely without clothing." 

As soon as order was restored, Lord Canning resolved to 
erect a memorial on this sad spot. Mr. C. B. Thornhill, at 
that time Commissioner of the Division (who had lost two 
brothers in the mutiny), was placed in charge of the work. 
He was commanded to devise a structure that should protect 
the fatal well and preserve its site; while the Viceroy, at 
his own expense, ordered a memorial statue of Baron Maro- 
chetti. The result is as follows : on a pedestal built over 
the well is a large figure of the Angel of Pity. A Gothic 
wall with iron doors surrounds the premises. Near by is a 
well-kept garden. 

The statue is pleasing and appropriate, but the curious 
wall around it is cheap looking and unnecessary. Over the 
portal of the door is this inscription : " These are they which 
came out of great tribulation " ; and around the well are 
these words : " Sacred to the perpetual memory of the great 
company of Christian people, chiefly women and children, 
who near this spot were cruelly massacred by the followers 
of the rebel Nana Dhoondoo Punth of Bithoor ; and cast, the 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 269 

dying with the dead, into the well below ? on the 15th day 
of July, 1857." 

We leave Cawnpore at half past two on the East Indian 
Eailway. 

December 31. — At seven o'clock this morning we come in 
sight of Delhi. The first view of the city from the railway 
is very picturesque. Before us are the high walls of strong 
fortifications, tall columns, and bulbous domes. Indeed, the 
railway itself, after crossing the Jumna on a strong girder- 
bridge, and passing directly through the old fort of Suleem- 
gurh, rushes close to the great Eed Castle of Shahjuhan, and 
finally lands the traveller in the neighborhood of the Queen's 
Gardens. 

The present city of Delhi was founded in 1631 by Shah- 
juhan. It is built within red granite walls, forty feet high, 
and seven miles in circumference. The city is situated on 
the Jumna Eiver, one thousand and nineteen miles north- 
west of Calcutta, and eight hundred and seventy miles from 
Bombay. It contains a population of one hundred and fifty 
thousand. The city was ravaged by Nadir Shah in 1739, 
who took one hundred and twenty million pounds of spoil 
back to Persia. The fall of the nominal sovereigns of Delhi 
was succeeded September 1, 1858, by a proclamation of au- 
thority from the Queen of England. 

After breakfasting at the United Service Hotel, we set out 
for a tour of the city, accompanied by Baboo Budree Das,. 



270 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

one of the proprietors of the hotel, a very intelligent Hindoo 
of high caste, who speaks English perfectly, and is thoroughly 
posted on all points of interest in and around Delhi.* Pass- 
ing out of the southeast or Delhi Gate, we drive southward, 
with the Jumna Eiver on our left, bound for Feerozabad. 
After a drive of a half-hour we arrive at the Kotila of 
Feeroz Shah Toghluk, with the stone pillar. This is situated 
in the midst of ruins, and is a single shaft of sandstone, 
about forty-two feet high, and covered with inscriptions. 
The ruins of the palace of Feeroz surround it. The old city 
of Feeroz was about six miles long and two broad, and is 
said to have contained a population of one hundred and fifty 
thousand. From here we proceed to another portion of 
Feerozabad, called Indraput. 

We visit next Homayoon's tomb. It was begun by this 
emperor's widow, Hajee Begum, and completed by his son; 
it is said that two hundred workmen were employed upon it 
for sixteen years, and that its total cost was fifteen lacs of 
rupees ($ 750,000). It is built of red stone in the form of a 
square, with a fine marble dome, and contains a large central 
hall. Here, in 1857, Major Hodson and Lieutenant Mac- 
dowell shot the two sons of the Ex-King Bahadoor Shah, 



* Let me, however, warn travellers not to advance this man any money for 
expenses on the road, hut to pay all such themselves, for the way the Baboo 
distributes rupees among the populace must give them the idea that those 
he is serving are princes in disguise. 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 2J\ 

who had taken refuge in this place after the mutiny. The 
side chambers contain the tombs of several of the house of 
Timoor. 

Continuing our way we arrive at the tomb of Shah Mza- 
moodeen. In regard to this man there is much uncertainty. 
He served under the Emperor Ala-ood-deen Khilji towards 
the end of the thirteenth century. He is said by some to 
have been a sorcerer ; by others, a member of the dangerous 
Secret Society of Khorasan ; and it is even alleged that he 
was the founder of Thuggism. 

The first building in this cemetery contains the tomb of 
the foster-brother of the great Akbar. It is a fine marble 
hall supported by pillars, which form graceful groined arches. 
On each side is a carved screen of white marble. 

Next comes the tomb of Nizamooden. This is surrounded 
by a veranda of white marble, and the sarcophagus is en- 
closed by a marble screen. At the head of the grave is a 
stand with a koran. 

Not far off is the tomb of Juhanara Begum. The sarcoph- 
agus is likewise enclosed by a marble screen. Juhanara was 
the daughter of the Emperor Shahjuhan. She is said to have 
been a woman of remarkable talents and virtues. She was 
the sister of Dara Sheko, heir-apparent to Shahjuhan, who 
was murdered by his younger brother Aurungzeb, who then 
deposed his father and proclaimed himself emperor. Juhanara 
refused to reside at the court of her wicked brother, but re- 



272 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

mained with her father at Agra. It is believed that she was 
removed to Delhi and murdered at the command of Aurung- 
zeb. On her tomb are these words, said to have been written 
by herself: "Let no rich coverlet adorn my grave; this grass 
is the best covering for the tomb of the poor in spirit, the 
humble, the transitory Juhanara, the disciple of the holy men 
of Cheest, the daughter of the Emperor Shahjuhan." The top 
of the grave is covered with a growth of coarse grass. The 
carved marble screen around it is an exquisite piece of work- 
manship. Near by is the Bowlee, or well-house, a large, deep 
tank of water, into which little boys jump from great heights, 
for small coins. 

Turning now to the east, we set out for Toghlukabad. 
After riding for a little distance in the carriage, we are 
obliged to change our conveyance, as the road is only suitable 
for native bullock-carts, called tanjahs. These vehicles are 
drawn by two bullocks, who travel at the rate of ten miles 
an hour; but the tanjahs are but little better than the terri- 
ble Chinese carts, and I advise travellers who wish to visit 
Toghlukabad to accomplish the last part of the way on 
horseback. 

Toghlukabad, the massive citadel of the Emperor Toghluk 
Shah, was begun A. D. 1321, and finished two years later. 
The fort is built on rising ground, and is a half-hexagon in 
shape, with three faces of three quarters of a mile in length 
each, and a base of one mile and a half, the whole circuit 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 273 

being nearly four miles. It is constructed of immense blocks 
of stone, is surrounded on several sides by water, and the 
rampart walls are pierced with loop-holes for light and de- 
fence. The fort has thirteen gates, and contains a well cut in 
the solid rock to a depth of eighty feet; inside the walls, too, 
are the ruins of the founder's palace, and many ruined houses. 

Standing on the citadel, one realizes the important position 
the fort held in the past. In the distance is Delhi; and at 
our feet a beautiful grassy plain, where, indeed, the Prince 
of Wales is to hold a grand review in about two weeks. 
Opposite us is the tomb of Toghluk Shah. 

Leaving the fort, we cross over to the tomb. The two are 
connected by a causeway six hundred feet long. The tomb 
itself is built of stone, ornamented with white marble. It is 
a square of sixty-one and one half feet exteriorly; the walls 
are twenty-one and one half feet thick, thirty-eight and 
one half feet high, with a slope of seven and one half feet 
from top to bottom. The total height to the top of the 
domed roof is seventy feet, and the pinnacle is ten feet more. 
Each of the four sides has a lofty doorway with a pointed 
arch. Within are three tombs, said to be those of the old 
king, his wife, and his son and successor. The latter was a 
very cruel and unjust monarch; and his successor, the good 
Feeroz Shah, obtained, after long efforts, a paper signed by 
all whom his predecessor had wronged, declaring their full 
forgiveness. This he deposited in the late king's tomb near 



274 DOrriNGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

his right hand, that, in the resurrection day he might appear 
with it before the judgment seat. The following are the 
words of Feeroz Shah himself in regard to it : "I have taken 
pains to discover the surviving relations of all persons who 
suffered from the wrath of my late lord ; and having pen- 
sioned, and provided for them, and for those who had been 
maimed by order of the late Sultan, have caused them to 
execute deeds, declaring their satisfaction, duly witnessed; 
these being placed in a chest have been deposited at the 
head of the tomb of the said Sultan, in the hope that God of 
his infinite mercy will take compassion on my departed friend." 

As the sun is sinking fast, we turn our faces towards Delhi, 
and after another dose of bullock-cart, we rejoin our carriage 
and arrive at the hotel in time for dinner. 

Before leaving the hotel in the morning, we gave orders to 
the proper persons to prepare a nautch for us this evening, 
as we wished to witness this curious dance. At 8 p. M. we 
leave the hotel, and, accompanied by the Baboo, make our 
way through a labyrinth of streets to a hall brilliantly lighted, 
containing a sort of stage, on which chairs are placed for us. 
The native musicians sit at one end, several Indians with 
torches are standing near by, and the dancing-girls are grouped 
at the side. Their dresses are elaborately embroidered with 
gold and silver, and countless bangles of gold and silver are 
on their wrists and ankles. Silver rings, connected by silver 
chains, are worn on their toes. Long veils, beautifully em- 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPOEE, AND DELHI. 275 

broidered, are thrown loosely over their heads or twisted 
around their bodies. 

Now the musicians strike up a slow, mournful refrain. 
The torchbearers advance, and throwing the fitful light on the 
dancers, cause the bright dresses of the latter to sparkle like 
masses of jewels. The dance is begun with a measured, grace- 
ful step ; the glittering figures wind in and out, advance, 
retreat, and move from side to side, their dark faces and 
barbaric garments forming a weird scene. Now one of them 
steps before the others, and, placing a cup on the ground, 
circles round and round it, now rushing towards it with 
eagerness, then, with hand outstretched to seize it, moving 
back hurriedly with an expression of fear on her face. The 
music is rapid and shrill, and wild bursts from time to time 
seem to call on the dancer to taste the fatal draught. It is 
" Temptation " enacted. At last the girl leaps forward, throws 
her veil from her, and dances towards the cup. The music 
grows even more rapid, her bosom heaves, and, with uplifted 
arms, she sinks within the charmed circle, grasps the cup 
with utter abandonment, and drains it to the bottom. 

1876, January 1. — We start this morning for the Fort and 
Palace of the Moguls. This fortress was built at an expense 
of fifty lacs of rupees ($2,500,000), and was not finished for 
twenty years. It is about a mile and a quarter in circumfer- 
ence, and contained originally about a dozen buildings, of 
which the most important still exist. 



276 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

We go first into a large hall open at three sides, and sup- 
ported by rows of red sandstone pillars. On the right-hand 
side (as we stand looking up the hall) is a marble staircase 
leading up to a throne, covered with a canopy which is sup- 
ported on four pillars of white marble. The throne is raised 
about ten feet from the ground. The wall behind the throne 
is covered with mosaic work in precious stones, the majority 
of which have been removed. This work was done by Austin 
de Bordeaux. 

Continuing our way to the left we enter the exquisite Hall 
of Audience, which once contained the celebrated Peacock 
Throne, worth six million pounds sterling, which Nadir Shah 
took away in 1739. This hall is supported by graceful marble 
pillars, beautifully inlaid with precious stones in floral designs ; 
and the upper sections, the ceiling, and the cornices are gilt. 
The room is long and wide, the marble columns are massive 
and finely wrought, and the decoration is most elaborate. I 
do not believe it has its equal in the world. 

The white marble platform on which the Peacock Throne 
rested is still here. On the cornices at each end can still be 
deciphered the famous inscription, in flowing Persian charac- 
ters : " Ugur furdoosee huroo-i-zumeen ust, humeen ust, humeen 
ust, humeen ust" (And, oh, if there be an Elysium on earth, 
it is this, it is this, it is this"). 

"The Palace of Shahjuhanabad, in the short space of its 
existence, has witnessed many startling scenes, mostly tragic. 



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, LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 277 

Here, in 1716, the Scottish surgeon, who cured the Emperor 
Furrokh Shur on the eve of his marriage, was rewarded by 
that permission for his employers to establish a factory and 
to maintain a territory of thirty-eight towns on the banks of 
the Hooghly, which was the foundation of the 'Presidency 
of Fort William,' and all that has since sprung therefrom. 
Gabriel Hamilton was thus the homme necessaire of the Brit- 
ish Indian Empire. Here, on the 31st of March, 1739, the 
degenerate Muhumud Shah entered the Throne-room with the 
fearful Nadir Shah of Persia, and sipped his coffee on the 
Peacock Throne. Next day, the invaders massacred the citi- 
zens before 'the dark and terrible eye' of their leader, as he 
looked on from the roof of Eoshun-ood-dowlah's Mosque. The 
Peacock Throne was then broken up, and Nadir returned to 
Persia with plunder valued at eighty millions sterling in the 
value of the day. Less than ten years after, the Abdalee 
Chief of Cabul, Ahmud Khan, repeated the cruel lesson and 
despoiled the palace of much of its remaining wealth. In 
1759 the work was completed by the Mahrattas, under Su- 
dasheo Eao Bhao, marching to their ruin at Paniput; when 
.... the plating was torn down from the ceiling of the 
Throne-room. In 1788 the sanctity of the imperial halls was 
further violated by the cannon-shot of Gholam Kadir, and 
shortly after by his actual presence. Here he lay and smoked 
his hookah on the faded substitute of the Peacock Throne ; 
and here he, with his own hands, shared in the torture of the 



278 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

royal family and the blinding of the helpless old Emperor 
Shah Alum. Here, on the 15th of September, 1803, as the 
sun was setting, the long cavalcade of Lake defiled into the 
Am-Khas, where the blinded chief of the house of Timoor 
was found * seated under a small tattered canopy, the remnant 
of his royal state, with every external appearance of the 
misery of his condition.' And lastly, here in May, 1857, the 
last representative of the Great Moguls, a not unwilling tool 
in the hands of the Company's mutinous soldiery, consented 
to the butchery of helpless women and children."* 

"We go next to the Jama Musjid, the great Mosque of 
Delhi, and the finest in India. It is built on a rocky height 
to the westward of the Palace, and is constructed of white 
marble and red sandstone, with three domes and two mina- 
rets. It stands in a splendid court-yard, four hundred and 
fifty feet square, and is reached by handsome marble steps. 
The mosque itself is two hundred and one feet long, one hun- 
dred and twenty feet broad, and one hundred and fifty feet 
high. The roof is supported by beautiful marble pillars, and 
the marble floor is divided into spaces for the worshippers. 
At each end are marble screens behind which the women 
knelt. 

It is said that five thousand workmen were constantly em- 
ployed on this mosque for six years. It was completed 
A. D. 1658, the same year in which its founder, Shahjuhan, 

* Keene's Handbook to Delhi. 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 279 

was deposed. In a building near the mosque we are shown 
various relics, — a shoe of Mahomet, a hair from his beard, 
and a very old Koran. 

On our way back to the hotel we pass through the famous 
Chandnee Chouk, or Street of Light, where the chief shops 
are situated. Here we find a profusion of beautifully embroi- 
dered shawls, jackets, cloaks, and caps, for which Delhi is 
noted. The jewellers' stores are well worth visiting, and we 
examine with interest a saddle-cloth, intended for the 
Prince of Wales, which is covered with precious stones of 
all kinds. 

After tiffin we set out for the Kootub, a wonderful tower 
about eleven miles distant from the centre of the city. As 
we ride along we pass first the Juntur Muntur, or Observa- 
tory, constructed for the Emperor Mohummud Shah in 
A. D. 1730, by Jay Singh, Eaja of Jeypore. Farther on, 
on the other side, is the tomb of Sufdur Jung ("Piercer of 
Battle Eanks"). 

The Kootub is a red stone tower two hundred and thirty- 
eight feet high, and sloping from a diameter of forty-seven 
feet at the base to one of scarcely nine at the summit. It 
is divided into five stories, of which the first and last make 
up one half, the second, third, and fourth the other half, of 
the total height. The three lower stories are surrounded with 
carved scrolls containing verses from the Koran, and the name 
and praises of the founder. 



280 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

The literal meaning of Kootub is Polar Star. The tower 
was begun by Kootub-ood-deen Aibuk, the lieutenant of the 
Ghorian conqueror of India, towards the end of the twelfth 
century. It was not completed, however, till the middle of 
the reign of his successor. The tower is exquisitely propor- 
tioned. A winding staircase leads up to the top, whence an 
extensive view may be obtained. 

Near the Kootub is a remarkable gateway built by Ala- 
ood-deen in the fourteenth century. The facade is covered 
with delicate chiselling, and, viewed from a little distance, 
the tracery is wonderfully beautiful. Near by is a plain iron 
pillar, twenty-two feet high, with six Sanscrit lines cut upon 
its western face, indicating that it was erected in the fourth 
century of the Christian era. Several other interesting ruins 
are in the vicinity. 

Eetracing our steps we reach Delhi in time for dinner. 

A few words in regard to the mutiny in this city. Early 
on the morning of the 11th of May, 1857, the revolted troopers 
of the Third Bengal Cavalry crossed the bridge of boats and 
entered the city. The entire native garrison quickly joined 
them, and the foreigners were at once attacked. Simon Fra- 
ser, the Eesident, Captain Douglas, Commander of the Palace 
Guard, with the Chaplain and his daughter, were killed at 
the main gate of the citadel; Colonel Eipley and other offi- 
cers of the Seventy-fourth N. I. were shot in front of their 
own men; the magazine was captured; and the Europeans, 



LUCKNOW, CAWNPORE, AND DELHI. 281 

men, women, and children, were pursued by a frantic mob 
and shot down as they ran. The magazine, however, was 
bravely exploded by Willoughby and Forrest, and many Eu- 
ropeans escaped across the Jumna and arrived safely at 
Meerut. 

On the 8th of September operations were begun to retake 
the city. Troops under John Lawrence had arrived, and, 
best of all, came the great John Nicholson. For five days 
the gunners of England beat upon the northern walls with- 
out ceasing. On the evening of the 13th two practicable 
breaches were reported by the Engineer officers, one at the 
Cashmere Bastion, the other at the "Water Gate. At day- 
break of the 14th the roar of artillery suddenly ceased. Ac- 
cording to previous agreement the Sixtieth Rifles sprang forth 
with a cheer to cover the advance, and Salkeld and Home 
of the Bengal Engineers stepped forward with non-commis- 
sioned officers, buglers, and powder-carriers, to blow up the 
Cashmere Gate. The scene that followed is thus described 
by an eye-witness, Colonel Medley, R E. : " Followed by the 
storming party, one hundred and fifty strong, Home and his 
party reached the outer gate almost unseen. With difficulty 
they crossed the ditch, and having laid their bags, retired 
unharmed. It was now Salkeld's turn. He also advanced 
with four other bags of powder and lighted port-fire, but the 
enemy had seen the smallness of the party and the object 
of their approach. A deadly fire was poured upon the little 



282 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

band from the open wicket not ten feet distant. Salkeld 
laid his bags, but was shot through the arm and leg, and 
fell back on the bridge, handing the port-fire to Sergeant 
Burgess, bidding him light the fuse. Burgess was instantly- 
shot dead in the attempt. Sergeant Carmichael then ad- 
vanced, took up the port-fire, and succeeded in the attempt, 
but immediately fell mortally wounded. Sergeant Smith, see- 
ing him fall, advanced at a run, but finding that the fuse 

was already burning, threw himself into the ditch In 

another moment a terrific explosion shattered the massive 
gate, the bugle sounded the advance, and then with a loud 
cheer the storming party was in the gateway, and in a few 
minutes more the Cashmere Gate and Main Guard were once 
more in our hands." 

All the survivors were recommended for the Victoria Cross. 
Salkeld, however, died of his wounds ; and Home, coming out 
unhurt from this terrible ordeal, fell soon after in a small 
engagement. General Nicholson, after leading his column 
over the breach by the side of the Cashmere Gate, was shot 
while urging his men towards the Burn Bastion. On the 
fifth day, however, the whole city was in the hands of Sir 
Archdale Wilson. 

January %. — We leave Delhi at half past eleven this 
morning, and reach Agra at 7.30 P. M. We drive at once to 
Harrison's Hotel. 



AGRA AND BOMBAY. 283 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

AGRA AND BOMBAY. 

The Taj of Agra. — The Pearl Mosque. — The Fort. — The Tomb of 
Akbar the Great. — Bombay. — The Tower of Silence. — The Caves 
of Elephanta. — Embarkation for Egypt. 

January 3. — Agra is situated on the west bank of the 
Jumna Kiver, one hundred and thirty-nine miles southeast 
from Delhi, nine hundred and six miles from Calcutta, and 
seven hundred and fifty from Bombay. It contains a popu- 
lation of one hundred and forty-three thousand, and has a 
considerable trade in cotton and salt, which are sent down 
the Jumna in boats to Mirzapore and Calcutta. 

The city was named from agur, a salt-pan, much salt hav- 
ing been made in the place by evaporation. It was founded 
by Akbar the Great in the middle of the sixteenth century, 
and is particularly interesting to travellers on account of the 
Fort, the Taj, and the Pearl Mosque. 

We begin our day's tour with a visit to Sikundra, the 
tomb of Akbar the Great. This is a square building of red 
stone with five stories, the upper one being of white marble, 
and crowned by four small kiosques. The tomb was built 
by Juhangeer, the son and successor of Akbar. It is said to 



284 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

have cost fifteen lacs of rupees. A beautiful garden sur- 
rounds it, full of orange, banana, tamarind, mango, palm, and 
peepul trees. A high, red stone wall encloses the grounds, 
with a lofty gateway in the centre of each of its sides. 

On the summit of the mausoleum is a white marble sar- 
cophagus, exquisitely sculptured, and placed in the centre of 
a large chamber open to the sky. Ninety-nine titles of the 
Creator are on the tombstone, and at the head and foot are 
the salutations of the school or faith of Akbar, "Allaho Akbar! 
Jilli Julali Hoo ! " The real tomb which covers the remains 
is in a vault below the floor of the building. The hall is 
about thirty-eight feet square, and the ceiling is of blue and 
gold plaster. 

Stand at a little distance from the building, opposite the 
main gateway. From here one can appreciate the beauty of 
the whole. On either side of the wide stairway are two 
minarets. The different red stone stories rise one above an- 
other, surmounted by the beautiful chamber of white marble ; 
at each corner of the upper terrace are two marble turrets 
with gilded domes which flash and glitter in the sun ; around 
us is the luxuriant garden, filled with bright sunlight and 
patches of shade, while a deep and impressive silence per- 
vades this abode of the dead. 

We next visit the Fort situated in the town. This is a 
lofty structure of red stone, with walls about seventy feet in 
height and a mile and a half in circumference. It is said, 



AGRA AND BOMBAY. 285 

however, that their strength is more apparent than real, and 
that the stone of the works is only veneered over banks of 
sand and rubble. Passing over the moat on a drawbridge, 
we pass through a curious gateway, and crossing a court- 
yard enter the Dewan-i-Am, or Public Audience Hall. This 
chamber is one hundred and ninety-two feet in length and 
sixty-four in breadth. The traces of the emperor's throne are 
still to be seen, and near by is a slab of marble on which 
Akbar stood when administering justice. At the side, over- 
looking the river, are beautifully decorated chambers, formerly 
occupied by the ladies of the court. The remains of an ex- 
tensive system of water-pipes are still shown ; and underneath 
a little building near by is a large bowlee, or well-house,, 
whose interior walls are covered with little mirrors. These* 
well-houses were designed for cool retreats during the. heat 
of the day. The fort was captured by Lord Lake in 1803. 

The Motee Musjid, or Pearl Mosque, is the most beautiful 
building on the premises. It is of white marble, standing 
on a lofty sandstone platform, and has three delicate domes 
of white marble. " It is a sanctuary so pure and stainless, 
revealing so exalted a spirit of worship, that I felt humbled 
as a Christian to think that our noble religion has never 
inspired its architects to surpass this temple to God and 
Mahomet." * 

From here we drive to the Taj. Arrived at the premises, 

* Bayard Taylor. 



286 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

we pass through a splendid gateway of sandstone, covered 
with inscriptions from the Koran in white marble. Proceed- 
ing, we enter a beautiful garden with rich trees, shrubs, and 
flowers, and many fountains. At the farther end, above the 
rich foliage, rises a marble building of dazzling whiteness. 
Its proportions are so graceful that it seems to be but lightly 
resting on its foundations, and its dome is so delicate that it 
is almost transparent. While gazing on the structure the eye 
assures the mind that this is absolute perfection. 

We ascend some wide marble steps and reach a white 
marble platform. Crossing this, we arrive at the door, a gem 
of delicate carving and tracery. We descend into the vault 
containing the sarcophagi of Shah Juhan and his queen, — 
Moomtaz-i-Mahal, The Light of the World. The tombs are 
exquisitely adorned with bloodstone, agate, carnelian, and 
jewels, inlaid with great taste. They are surrounded with an 
octagonal screen of marble, covered with different designs 
worked with precious stones. The roof and walls of the 
chamber are pure white blocks of marble, and the echo that 
is returned here is wonderful. 

I have seen many different buildings, many handsome 
structures, many varied styles of architecture ; never have I 
beheld one which fills me with such delight as this Taj 
Mahal. 

January 4- — We leave Agra at half past five this morn- 
ing, with a long railroad journey before us. 



AGRA AND BOMBAY. 287 

January 6. — I reach Bombay at half past eleven this 

morning. F left the train at Jubbulpore to spend a 

night at the "Marble Bocks." He is to rejoin me to-morrow. 
After obtaining my letters I drive to the Esplanade Hotel, 
an immense iron structure lately erected. 

Bombay is distant fourteen hundred and seventy miles, by 
rail, from Calcutta, and seven hundred and seventy-five miles 
from Madras. The English obtained the place as part of the 
dowry of the Princess Katherine of Portugal, when she was 
married to Charles II. This monarch ceded it to the East 
India Company in 1669. It contains a population of about 
seven hundred thousand, and carries on an extensive trade. 
The city now contains many handsome buildings, wide streets 
lighted with gas, and a horse railroad. It is excellently 
drained; and Malabar Hill, overlooking the town, is covered 
with picturesque bungalows. Multitudes of Parsees, with tall 
black-paper hats, are constantly seen on the streets. They are 
very thrifty and industrious, and many of them have amassed 
large fortunes. 

January 7. — F arrived to-day. In the afternoon we 

visit the curious and repulsive Tower of Silence, the strange 
cemetery of the Parsees. On the top of a lofty hill, remote 
from the town, is a garden surrounded by a high wall. A 
long flight of steps winds up to the summit of the hill. In 
the centre of the garden is a low, square building without 
any roof. It contains one chamber, in which is a sort of iron 



288 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

altar formed of round bars of iron joined together. When a 
Parsee dies the body is taken solemnly to this Tower of Si- 
lence, strapped upon the iron altar, and left entirely exposed 
to the air in the open chamber. These people do not follow 
the custom of cremation or of burying, but believe that the 
body should be placed above ground, and suffered, undis- 
turbed, to return to the elements of which it was made. 
Therefore, having secured it to the iron altar, they leave it in 
the open air, and, shutting the outer gate, allow Nature to 
deal with their dead as she will. 

Their theory, however, is never carried into effect. Scarcely 
is a body fastened to the altar when, from all the neighboring 
trees, multitudes of vultures spring into the air, and, scenting 
their coming banquet from afar, wheel round and round the 
summit of the hill in a thick, dark flock. As soon as the 
outer gate is shut, they swoop upon their senseless prey, and, 
tearing off pieces of flesh, group themselves on the neighbor- 
ing wall, and finish their repast at their leisure before the 
very faces of the relatives of the deceased. 

This shocking scene is repeated so frequently, that the Brit- 
ish government has decided to command the Parsees to bury 
their dead in the usual way. 

None but Parsees can enter the garden. Eoyal visitors and 
high officials are, however, admitted. The custodian informs 
us that we cannot pass the gate. He says that the Prince of 
Wales was the only foreigner who has obtained admission for 



AGRA AND BOMBAY. 289 

years. Assuming a dignified air and raising my voice, I reply, 
"We have travelled a long way from home. We are Bach- 
elors of Arts and we wish to see the inside of your cemetery." 
The Parsee is puzzled. He sees we are strangers, and has 
evidently never heard of our declared rank. Seeing a smile 

on F 's face, he suspects something. Shaking his head, he 

declares that we must send our names to the secretary of his 
Sect, and inform him that we are Bachelors of Arts. This, he 
says, may admit us. It is needless to say that we do not 
follow his advice. 

At 6 p. M. we meet, by appointment, Mr. E. Lord, of Lyon & 
Co., who drives us along the beach road to the centre of Mala- 
bar Hill, where he has a delightful house. A fine sea-view 
is obtained here, and the air is cool and refreshing. 

January 9. — Having engaged a small steam-launch we 
start about seven o'clock for the Caves of Elephanta, situated 
on Garapuri Island, about eight miles from Bombay. This is 
a specimen of the numerous cave-temples found in various 
parts of India. Here we see large chambers hollowed out of 
the rocky cave, regular rows of sculptured pillars, and rude 
statues of various divinities. The chief object of interest in 
Elephanta, however, is the Hindoo Trinity, an immense head 
with three faces, cut out of a single piece of rock, represent- 
ing Shiva, Vishnu, and Buddha. When the Prince of Wales 
was in Bombay this cave was illuminated, and the effect must 
have been very picturesque. 



290 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

January 10. — Two steamers are lying in the harbor bound 
for Suez. One is the regular mail-boat of the P. and 0. 
S. S. Co., which is due at Suez in twelve days; the 
other is an Italian steamer, very comfortable in appearance, 
and said to be an excellent boat. She does not, however, run 
on schedule time, and on this account the fare is much less 
than by the mail-boat. I prefer, however, to take the fast 

steamer, while F champions the other. He reminds me 

that we are in no hurry to reach Egypt; assures me that 
the Italian boat will arrive at Suez but a very few days after 
the other; and tells me that we will make quite a saving in 
our fare, — a powerful inducement to a traveller. To this I 
answer that we have already travelled many thousand miles 
on the sea. I am anxious to accomplish this voyage as speed- 
ily as possible. To do this I am williDg to pay a higher 
fare. Moreover, it is quite uncertain when the Italian steamer 
will reach Egypt. She may stop for cargo or passengers along 
the Red Sea, and take several weeks to accomplish the voyage. 

All that I say is of no avail. F remains firm in his 

preference. We both see that our arguments are powerless 
with the other. We fix matters as follows; F is to em- 
bark on the Italian steamer, and I on the mail-boat. His 
steamer is due (as far as is now known) at Suez two days 
after mine. I promise to wait for him in Cairo, when we will 
continue our tour. 

At 3 P. M. we bid each other farewell. I embark on the 



AGRA AND BOMBAY. 29 1 

English steamer and F goes on board of the Italian. At 

five o'clock we weigh anchor. Behind us is F 's steamer, 

which has not yet started. India disappears in the distance. 
Once more I am on the water with a long voyage before me, 
but, for the first time, with no fellow-countryman at my side. 



292 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 

Aden. — Heat on the Red Sea. — Suez. — Across the Desert to Cairo. 
— Egyptian Mosques. — Excursion to the Pyramids. — The Dancing 
Dervishes. — Arrival at Alexandria. 

January 11. — The Pera is the flag-ship of the Peninsula and 
Oriental Squadron, her commander, Captain Methven, being 
the oldest officer in the company's service. She is a fine 
large vessel, and the captain pays the most continual atten- 
tion to the comfort of passengers intrusted to him. Be- 
sides this, he keeps a most watchful eye upon every portion 
of the ship, and satisfies himself by thorough and frequent 
inspections that his orders are carried out and proper care 
taken. We have but few passengers, for people seldom re- 
turn to England in the cold weather after living for a year 
or more in the warm climate of India. I am the only 
American on board, and I am obliged to endure continual 
(good-natured) allusions to the " Bird of Freedom," " the Stars 
and Stripes," and "The Ideal Yankee." 

January 17. — After a swift run across the Arabian Sea, 
we reach Aden at daybreak this morning; and while the 
steamer is coaling the passengers have time to visit the 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 293 

town. Aden is situated on a rocky peninsula near the en- 
trance to the Eed Sea. It is owned by the English, and 
would be an important naval station in case of war. It has 
a population of about twenty-one thousand, the majority of 
whom are natives. A small trade is carried on with the in- 
terior of Arabia and with the opposite ports in Africa. It is 
a stopping-place for the Peninsula and Oriental boats, and for 
the steamers of the Messageries Maritimes Company. Hardly 
a tree is to be seen in the place, and the neighborhood is 
lonely to the last degree. The natives present a very curious 
appearance. They stiffen their hair with a sort of yellow 
earth, which gives the head the exact look of a large mop. 
Ostrich-feathers and coral may be bought here in large 
quantities, but no one should think of giving the prices 
demanded. 

We leave Aden at 11 A, M., and at 7 p. m. are opposite 
Perim, in the Eed Sea. 

January 18. — At noon to-day the strong, favorable wind 
dies completely away, and leaves us gasping for breath. ISTo 
one who has not experienced it can imagine the heat which 
frequently prevails on the Eed Sea. There seems to be ab- 
solutely no air to breathe. The steamer's smoke rises slowly, 
and hangs about the smoke-stack in a dense cloud, moving 
neither to the right hand nor to the left. The sun beats 
down fiercely upon the awnings stretched over the decks; 
the passengers are all siezed with a burning thirst, and soda- 



294 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

water and ale are in great demand. I can now appreciate 
the story, often told, that ships navigating this water in July 
or August are sometimes obliged to turn round and run 
backwards to get a little air ! How we should enjoy some 
of the January blasts that are probably now whistling over 
America ! 

January 20. — We are revived! A fresh breeze is blowing 
in our faces, tossing up great waves against the ship, and 
considerably retarding our progress ; but better, far better 
withal, than the furnace-heat of yesterday. 

January 22. — At five o'clock this morning one of the 
passengers kindly comes to my state-room, and calls to me to 
come on deck and look at the range of mountains among 
which is Sinai. Going up stairs, I find several of the pas- 
sengers already assembled, the majority provided with glasses, 
or small telescopes, all earnestly gazing at a group of snow- 
capped hills which rise boldly from the desert. The beams 
of the rising sun shine full on the white summits, and cast 
a beautiful rosy light over the whole. A more intensely 
desolate place I have never beheld. Besides the mountains, 
only a wide expanse of blue water and far-stretching sand is 
to be seen, and an eternal silence seems to hold possession 
of the spot. 

At midnight we arrive off Suez, but are obliged to wait 
till daylight before going up to the dock. 

January 23. — At daybreak this morning we are again in 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO, 295 

motion, and at nine o'clock the ship is securely tied to the 
wharf. All of us are thankful to be once more on land. 
Those of us who are bound for Cairo find that we shall be 
obliged to wait till to-morrow before proceeding on our 
journey, as the only train from Suez has started. We there- 
fore decide to spend the time at the Suez Hotel. As soon 
as we set foot on shore we are surrounded by swarms of 
Arabs, dozens of whom urge us to make use of at least fifty 
donkeys at once ; while whole platoons and relays insist upon 
bearing off all our baggage, and, having made a most minute 
division of the whole among themselves, we are dragged to 
the hotel by a regiment of guides, while the vast army of 
baggage-carriers moves on in front, and we make our way 
through streets lined with natives all demanding backsheesh 
at the same time. I am rejoiced to reach the hotel, and,, 
shutting the door of my room as quickly as possible, I listen; 
with dismay to the loud chorus of voices outside roaring, 
forth the terrible word backsheesh. 

Suez is situated on a sandy tract of land at the head of 
the Bed Sea. It is distant thirteen hundred and eight miles 
from Aden, and twenty-nine hundred and seventy-two miles 
from Bombay. It owes its present size entirely to the canal, 
which has necessitated the erection of warehouses and dwell- 
ings, and has attracted thither a much larger European popu- 
lation than the place ever would have obtained otherwise, 
The inhabitants number about fifteen thousand. In the im- 



296 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

mediate vicinity of Suez is shown the spot where (it is said) 
the Israelites crossed the Eed Sea. Excursions may be made 
also to the Well of Moses, Mount Sinai, and Mount Horeb. 
At best, however, Suez is uninteresting and desolate. 

Later in the day, when the throng outside my window 
has dispersed, I take a long walk with a fellow-passenger 
through the town and across the desert. "We pass a large 
camp of Nubian soldiers, waiting for transport-ships to take 
them to the seat of war in Abyssinia. A dress-parade is in 
progress ; and although the manual of arms is not very well 
mastered by the majority, still the many different companies 
of dusky soldiery uniformed in white with red fezes form a 
picturesque scene. 

January 24- — We start at eight o'clock this morning for 
Cairo, distant two hundred and twenty-four miles. The cars 
of the Egyptian Eailway are very dirty and uncomfortable, 
and very little attention is paid to the specified running time. 
Just before we start, our compartment is surrounded with the 
usual multitude of Arabs howling for backsheesh, to whose de- 
mands we, of course, pay no attention. Suddenly, however, a 
determined-looking Arab forces his way to the window, and 
gaining the attention of one of my companions, stretches out 
his hand for alms, prefacing his request as follows : " You 
kicked me yesterday, — backsheesh ! " It seems that my friend 
was yesterday wearied most to death by this fellow's importu- 
nities, and finally, refusals producing no effect, kicked him 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 297 

out of his path. The Arab then vanished without a word, 
but appeared this morning, as I have related, to urge his 
claim for backsheesh, to which he considered himself entitled, 
owing to his previous maltreatment. As the fact is indispu- 
table, my friend tosses him a sixpence, which entirely satis- 
fies him, and having salaamed he departs, his countenance 
beaming with joy. 

The railroad runs directly across the desert, and the journey 
is very uninteresting. After changing cars and lunching at 
Zagazig, we continue our way, reach Cairo at 5.40 p. M., and 
drive at once to Shepheard's Hotel. The different hotels in 
Cairo send carriages to the station to meet the daily trains, 
and it is the custom for travellers to hand their baggage- 
receipts to the hotel people, who assure its speedy arrival at 
the chosen hotel. I advise everybody, however, to collect 
their baggage themselves before leaving the station, as one of 
my companions was obliged to circulate around the city in 
search of a stray valise, thereby losing his dinner, his peace 
of mind, and probably his temper. 

January 25. — Cairo (Italianized from El Kahirah, The Vic- 
torious) contains a population of three hundred and seventy- 
five thousand, of whom twenty thousand are foreigners. The 
Khedive has greatly improved the city, and the European 
quarter contains many handsome residences, hotels, a public 
garden, and a fine opera-house. 

Soon after breakfast I jump on a donkey, and having ob- 



298 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

tained an intelligent dragoman to act as my guide and inter- 
preter during my stay in the city, I make my way through 
the narrow streets to my bankers, where I am glad to find 
several letters. From here I proceed to the Citadel, the largest 
mosque in Cairo, built on the highest ground in the city, from 
which a splendid view is obtained in all directions. This 
mosque was founded by Saladin in 1176, and its domes and 
minarets can be seen from almost every part of the city. 
Standing on the front balcony, a splendid panorama is spread 
out before me. Far away to the left the dark waters of the 
Nile can be distinguished, winding through fertile fields; at 
my feet is Cairo; while in the distance the Sphinx and the 
"everlasting Pyramids" rise boldly from the boundless desert. 
The interior of the mosque is plain, and in short the whole 
building is not to be compared to the exquisite structures in 
India; and to one familiar with the latter, the Egyptian are 
decidedly disappointing. Passing into the neighboring gardens, 
I am shown the spot where Emir Bey leaped his horse over 
the wall to avoid being killed, with his brother Mamelukes, 
in the massacre of March, 1811. Two other mosques worthy 
of a visit are the mosque of Kait-Bey, and of Emir Akhor. 
A cannon is fired from the Citadel every day at noon. 

After lunch I pay a visit to the bazaars. Here everything 
is very Oriental in appearance. The streets are full of tall 
men with flowing garments and long beards, who exactly 
resemble one's idea of the old patriarchs. The remarkable 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 299 

costume of the peasant-women who walk the streets so com- 
pletely covered that only their eyes are visible; the elegant 
carriages rattling along, through the half-closed blinds of which 
a woman of some Pacha's harem, closely veiled, can be seen; 
the throngs of donkeys, and the multitudes of men with red 
fezes, — all form a moving panorama which holds the atten- 
tion of the stranger far longer than one might suppose. 

Shepheard's (now Zech's) Hotel is the most largely fre- 
quented of any in Cairo, in spite of its new and pretentious 
rival, — an immense structure lately erected opposite the Pub- 
lic Gardens. At dinner at Shepheard's one may see a most 
varied and cosmopolitan gathering. The English are largely 
in the majority, but close by a lord or duke a "free American 
citizen" is often located, while Frenchmen, Italians, and Ger- 
mans are scattered in various directions. An incident occurred 
here which well illustrates the different lights in which Ameri- 
cans are regarded by their English cousins. The conversation 
among a party of English had turned upon America, and one 
young man declared in a loud tone of voice that "no Ameri- 
can can be a gentleman." Before any of our nationality could 
reply, a very beautiful Scotch girl, who was sitting directly 
opposite the oracle, overwhelmed him with a storm of righteous 
indignation. "How can you say such a thing?" said she. 
"Some of the most perfect gentlemen I ever met are Ameri- 
cans ! " This sudden reproof, coming from such a beautiful 
source, completely silenced our traducer, who soon after with- 



300 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

drew from the table. A vote of thanks was tendered our coun- 
try's champion for so heroically defending our reputation, and 
we assured her that her name should be preserved in the 
archives of the State Department. 

I was present this evening at a representation of "Aida" 
at the opera-house, which, in point of scenery and costume, 
was really marvellous. The scene of " Aida," as is well 
known, is laid in the vicinity of Cairo, and the costumes 
must, therefore, be Egyptian. Here, however, the dresses were 
gorgeously real, the scenery was exquisite, and the effect of 
the whole was astonishingly beautiful. The opera-house itself 
is built on the Continental plan ; but four boxes in the second 
tier, heavily curtained with lace, behind which some of the 
inmates of the Khedive's harem may be dimly seen, recall 
the fact that although I am in the midst of some modern cul- 
ture and refinement, I have not yet left behind me one of the 
most disgraceful customs of antiquity. 

January 26. — Soon after breakfast, to-day, I procure a 
donkey and set out for Boulac, the port of Cairo, one mile 
distant, which contains a large museum of Egyptian antiq- 
uities and curiosities. Here also are the mosques of Sinan- 
ceyeh and Abu-1-Ele, the latter remarkable for its picturesque 
minarets. Boulac itself is about one mile long and one half 
mile broad, and is a very dirty town, containing about twenty 
thousand inhabitants. 

I remount my donkey, and proceeding to the Nile am 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO, 301 

ferried across in a native boat to the Kilometer opposite. 
The point where we land is said to be the spot where Moses 
was found in the bullrushes. The Nilometer is an instru- 
ment for measuring the depth of the Nile. It consists of a 
square tank connected with the river by a narrow canal. 
The sides of the tank are marked off into divisions, and from 
the height of the water in the tank at any time an estimate 
is made of the average depth of water in the river at that 
particular season. 

Leaving the Nilometer, my guide leads me through a laby- 
rinth of narrow, dirty streets, and, having at last arrived at 
the end of a particularly unclean alley, we dismount and 
make our way into a curious and very old Catholic church, 
full of ancient paintings, and containing also a most interest- 
ing old Bible. Having examined this place, we retrace our 
steps and I return to the hotel for lunch. I spend the after- 
noon in wandering through the bazaars, where the ever- 
changing crowds afford me continual amusement. 

January 27. — No news from F- ! His steamer should 

have arrived at Suez two days ago. 

At nine o'clock this morning I set out with two other 
gentlemen for the Pyramids. The Khedive has built a broad 
and good road thither, and the distance — about ten miles 
each way — can be accomplished in one of the numerous 
barouches which are always to be found in the vicinity of 
the hotels. The road is shaded with trees, and passes over 



302 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the new bridge across the Nile near the ferry at old Cairo, 
a neighborhood thronged at all hours with multitudes of men, 
women, and children, camels and donkeys, while the various 
groups around the different cafes form a striking picture. 

When we are about four miles from our destination, our 
carriage is surrounded by squads of Arabs of all ages and 
heights, who, running at full speed, accompany us on our 
way, all eager to help us ascend the Pyramids. As we pro- 
ceed, the number of our self-appointed menials is continually 
increased, and, finally, we descend near the base of Cheops 
in the midst of a swarming army of desperate-looking sons 
of the desert, all clamoring loudly for the wished-for employ- 
ment. Having arrived at the foot of the Great Pyramid, we 
are obliged to parley with an old Arab Sheik, who — for 
what reason no one seems to know — enjoys a sort of royalty 
from every traveller who ascends to the top. Having prom- 
ised the Sheik that his demands shall be attended to on our 
return to earth, and having selected four of the frantic mul- 
titude who surround us, we are marched in triumphal array 
towards Cheops, two Arabs in front dragging each of us 
along, while two more follow close behind in readiness to 
push us up on to the enormous blocks of stone of which the 
Pyramids are composed. Mark Twain well says, that each 
stone " is as large as a dinner-table " ; and it actually takes 
the combined exertions of the four Arabs, pushing and 
pulling, to get the visitor to the top. After enduring this 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 303 

torture for about five minutes, I am so completely exhausted 
that I am obliged to rest, and sinking down on to a broad 
stone, I look down at my companion, an old gentleman of 
over fifty years of age, — for my other comrade, having ascended 
once before, utterly refused to submit to the pummelling 
again, — whom I see toiling bravely up from stone to stone, 
pausing at frequent intervals to rest. My drooping spirits 
having been revived by a few swallows of water admin- 
istered by a small boy who accompanies us with an earthen 
bottle, I once more am put into motion by my attendant 
demons, who haul me over stone after stone, chanting at the 
same time the following suggestive chorus, "Arab very good 
man ! Arab very good man ! " As I am too weak to dispute 
this at once, I allow them to remain for the time in the belief 
that I acquiesce in their assertion. At last, after a further ten 
minutes' work, and a slight rest, I surmount the topmost stone, 
and with a wild whoop, the Arabs set me down on the summit. 
This is a flat surface, thirty-two feet square. It is covered 
with the names and initials of travellers from all parts of 
the world, and the monogram of the Prince of Wales is very 
conspicuous. The view from this point is very fine. Directly 
in front, only a little distance off, is the smaller pyramid of 
Cephrenes ; near by is the Sphinx ; while in the distance 
stretches on one side the burning sands of the desert, and on 
the other the fertile valley of the Nile. 

Having surveyed the prospect at my leisure, I begin to 



304 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

wonder why the old gentleman does not appear, and, going 
to the edge, I look down towards the base. Far below me I 
see a group of figures, who resemble dwarfs, slowly descend- 
ing, while one in the middle, with a long white rope tied 
round his waist, is being lowered down from stone to stone 
by the others. I conclude from this that the old gentleman 
has given up the ascent in espair, and, indeed, so it proves. 
While standing on the summit, the Arabs beseech me to 
allow them to run down the Great Pyramid and up the side 
of Cephrenes, — a feat which they promise to accomplish in an 
incredibly short space of time if sufficient inducement is offered. 
I decline, however, and express a wish to descend. This opera- 
tion is far less arduous than the ascent, but even in this the 
assistance of the Arabs is necessary. Having reached the 
foot, aching in every bone, I signify my desire to enter the 
pyramid and explore the inner chamber where the sarcoph- 
agus was originally deposited. This also is a task of no 
slight discomfort. The entrance itself is only between four 
and five feet high; and after stooping low and passing in, 
I find a series of worn foot-holes, by which I descend rapidly 
down a narrow passage one hundred and seven feet long. 
This passage is perfectly dark, but the guides light a couple 
of candles (after obtaining a promise of extra backsheesh), which 
serve to show the cavities in which one must place his foot. 
Having arrived at the end of the descent, I am pushed and 
pulled by the Arabs over a huge bowlder which seems to 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 305 

have been the seal to the inner chamber, and from here an 
ascent begins, part of which must be accomplished on hands 
and knees. At last I find myself in a long narrow apartment, 
called the Great Gallery. Here I discover the old gentleman, 
leaning against the wall, looking very faint, and fanning 
himself with his hat, and surrounded by a bevy of Arabs, 
who are taking advantage of his exhaustion to fiercely de- 
mand backsheesh; and so persistent are they, that the old 
gentleman is obliged to give them something to make them 
leave him for a few moments in peace ; and on my arrival I 
find him recklessly dealing out shillings to the rascals, who 
receive each donation with a whoop of fiendish delight. 

Proceeding a little farther, I reach the Queen's Chamber, 
the roof of which is composed of huge blocks which have been 
most ingeniously joined together. In the eastern end of this 
room is a niche, where the stones have been broken by Arabs 
in search of treasure. Eeturning to the Great Gallery I am 
shown a narrow, funnel-shaped passage called the Well. This 
leads down to another chamber, where the body of the builder 
is believed to have been originally laid. As the old gentle- 
man wishes to get into the outer air as soon as possible, and 
as I have had enough crawling for one day, we do not descend 
to this spot. 

Having returned to our carriage we come to a financial set- 
tlement with the old Sheik and his minions, and after much 
useless conversation at last make matters satisfactory. "We 



306 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

then visit the Sphinx, which does not quite answer my ex- 
pectations; and after spending a few moments inspecting a 
ruined tomb near by, we return once more to our carriage, 
where lunch is awaiting us. "While discussing our meal we 
are pressed upon from all sides by Arabs who offer to sell us 
all sorts of "antiquities" (large quantities of which are manu- 
factured in England), and who urge us also to allow them to 
* run up the Great Pyramid and down again for one shilling," 
— a feat which they promise to accomplish in eight minutes . or 
forfeit the money. As we hardly believe it can be done in 
this time, we give the word to a fine-looking, athletic fellow, 
and off he starts. It is wonderful to see the agility with 
which he rises from stone to stone, and he reaches the top, 
apparently with the greatest ease, in just four minutes. His 
descent is as rapidly accomplished, and he arrives back at 
our carriage in seven minutes and a half from the time of his 
start ! 

We now turn our horses towards Cairo, and after retracing 
our steps for some time, stop near the banks of the Nile and 
leave the carriage to inspect a dahabeyeh y or Kile boat, in 
which parties ascend the river. These are long wide crafts, 
fitted up with some degree of comfort ; but a large and merry 
party must be required to make the time pass pleasantly. 
Continuing our way we reach the hotel in time for dinner. 

January 28. — Still no news of F . It is probable that 

his steamer has been detained at some port to receive extra 
cargo or passengers. 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 307 

I go to-day to the Tombs of the Mamelukes, which are by 
no means equal to the stately marble cenotaphs of the old 
Indian Eajas. At three o'clock I pay a visit to the temple of 
the Dancing Dervishes. Passing up a narrow alley I emerge 
into a small court-yard, on one side of which is an insignifi- 
cant-looking building with a small door at one end, by which 
my guide bids me enter. I find myself in a room about thirty 
feet by twenty, with a gallery running round the walls, part 
of .which, separated and covered by a wooden lattice- work 
screen, is devoted to any ladies of. the harems who may wish 
to observe the sacred rites. Nearly the whole floor of the 
temple is enclosed by a wooden circular railing, inside of which 
are standing about thirty men of all ages, with long flowing 
garments, shaved heads, and curious hats. About twenty-five 
spectators from the world at large are standing round the rail- 
ing, on the outside, waiting for the worship to begin. 

In about five minutes a. tall, very old man with a long beard 
enters the room from a side door, and marches slowly into 
the mystic circle. All the other priests remain standing till 
he has seated himself on a Turkish rug at the upper end of 
the apartment. As soon as the chief priest is seated, the rest 
all sit down around him, — the whole assemblage forming a 
large circle, — and bowing their heads low over their laps 
they remain thus motionless for nearly five minutes. Finally 
the chief priest rises, and making one solemn bow to the 
others, walks slowly round the room, all the rest bending low 



308 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

as he passes. Having completed the circuit of the room, the 
old fellow starts on another round, this time followed by all 
the other priests, each one falling into line as the procession 
passes him. When the chief priest has once more reached 
his rug, he leaves the others to proceed without him, and sit- 
ting down, sinks his head on his breast and relapses into deep 
meditation. The other priests walk completely round the room 
twice more, after which they all return to their places and 
stand motionless for several minutes. At last the priest who 
is on the right of the patriarch steps forward, makes him a 
low bow, and crosses over to his opposite neighbor, to whom 
he performs a similar obeisance. He then stretches both arms 
straight out before him and suddenly begins to spin round and 
round, his long petticoats standing out like a bell around his 
feet. Scarcely is he well under weigh when the priest next 
in order goes through the same ceremonies, and, like the first, 
is soon twirling round and round with extended hands. All 
the priests, likewise, are soon in motion, with the exception 
of the patriarch, whose years evidently prevent him from join- 
ing in the dizzy whirl. 

After witnessing this incessant spinning for some time, and 
learning from my guide that there is nothing further of inter- 
est to be seen, I call a carriage and set out for Heliopolis, the 
ruins of the ancient On, situated about seven miles from the 
city. On the way we pass the tomb of Malek Adel, the 
brother of Saladin. Near Heliopolis a very old sycamore-tree 



UP THE RED SEA TO CAIRO. 309 

may be seen, under which the Holy Family are said to have 
rested on their flight into Egypt; but this legend has been 
pronounced impossible by naturalists, who declare that the 
tree is only two hundred years old. The only trace of Heli- 
opolis is a solitary obelisk, sixty-two feet high, covered with 
curious hieroglyphics. 

January 29. — As F has not yet arrived, and as there 

is no office of the steamship company in Cairo, I decide to 
push on to Alexandria to make inquiries of the agent. Leav- 
ing Cairo, therefore, at eight o'clock this morning, I reach 
Alexandria, distant one hundred and sixty-two miles, at noon, 
and go to Abbat's Hotel. 



3IO DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 



CHAPTER XX. 

ALEXANDRIA TO FLORENCE. 

Alexandria. — Pompey's Pillar. — Cleopatra's Needle. — The Cata- 
combs. — Across the Mediterranean to Brindisi. — Arrival at 
Florence. 

January 30. — Alexandria, situated on very low, sandy 
land, has a population of two hundred and fifty thousand, 
nearly one half of whom are foreigners. The native quarter 
of the city consists of narrow, dirty streets, lined with mul- 
titudes of wretched houses. Near the shore of the new harbor, 
where the Europeans dwell, are fine large warehouses, hand- 
some residences, hotels, and churches. The site of the ancient 
Pharos is now occupied by a modern lighthouse. The cele- 
brated library, which contained seven hundred thousand vol- 
umes, stood near the present British consulate. Cleopatra's 
Needle, Pompey's Pillar, and the Catacombs are objects of 
interest for the traveller of to-day. Here St. Mark was 
martyred, and here, too, some of the most eminent fathers of 
the Church were born. 

Soon after my arrival yesterday, I went to the office of 
the Austrian Lloyd Steamship Company to inquire about the 
vessel on which F took passage. I was told by the 



ALEXANDRIA TO FLORENCE. 311 

agent that the steamer reached Aden two days late, but nothing 
has been heard from her since that time. She is therefore 
long over-due at Suez. In conversation last evening with 
an Englishman at the hotel, I was assured that it would be 
foolish to set out for the Holy Land at present, as the rainy 
season is not yet over, and tent-life would be unendurable. 
Moreover, the telegraph reports snow and rain at Constan- 
tinople; and as I have so lately come from the tropics, I 
dare not expose myself to cold weather. In short, my future 
movements are entirely uncertain, and I know not what to 
decide. 

I attend the English Church this morning, and hear a 
sermon from Bishop Gobat of Jerusalem. In the afternoon 
I procure a donkey and a guide, and set out for Pompey's 
Pillar. This is a shaft of red granite, sixty-eight feet high, 
and nine feet in diameter at the bottom. Two British naval 
officers and an English lady are said to have ascended to 
the top by means of a strong kite and a succession of ropes, 
but the story can hardly be believed. Why the pillar bears 
Pompey's name has never been determined. From here may 
be seen Lake Mareotis, which connects the Nile with the 
Mediterranean. 

I now proceed to Cleopatra's Needle, situated near the 
coast. This is a single red granite block, seventy feet high, 
and seven and a half feet wide at the base. Its four faces 
are adorned with three lines of hieroglyphics. The cen- 



312 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

tral bears the name of Thothmo III. It is said that the 
lateral lines were sculptured in the time of Sesostris. This 
pillar is one of four erected originally at Heliopolis, and 
brought hither by one of the Caesars. Another is now in 
Paris; and a third, given to the English, has not yet been 
removed, but is lying neglected in the sand. 

January 31. — I call this morning at the steamship office. 

No further news has been received from F 's steamer. 

What shall I do ? I do not wish to stay longer in this city ; 
the fleas alone are sufficient to urge my departure. I am 
unable, as I have said, to visit Palestine or Constantinople 
at present. I decide, therefore, to cross over to Italy. The 
steamship Pera (which carried me from India) has been delayed 
in the Suez Canal, but is to leave for Brindisi to-morrow, 
and I conclude to continue my journey in the care of her 
good captain. I leave a letter for F explaining my de- 
parture, and urging him to inform me promptly of his arrival 
in Egypt. 

Before going aboard the steamer, I visit the Catacombs, 
situated about three miles from the city. Having arrived at 
my destination, I descend (accompanied by several officious 
Arabs with pine-torches) into a spacious circular chamber 
from which a series of subterranean galleries extend on all 
sides into the hill. The recesses for the mummies are plainly 
to be seen, but the mummies themselves have been removed. 

On my return to the hotel I collect my luggage and go 



ALEXANDRIA TO FLORENCE. 313 

on board the steamship Pera, which is anchored off the 
town. 

February 1. — We start at eight o'clock this morning, and 
are soon out of sight of land. Among the passengers are 
Lord and Lady Francis Cunningham, Captain Hoskioer (from 
whom I parted in Calcutta), and Mr. and Mrs. Charles 
Matthews. 

February S. — We run, to-day, close to the island of Can- 
dia, which with its snow-capped hills looks exceedingly 
picturesque. Towards evening the sea becomes very rough, 
and the ship tosses about incessantly. A cold head wind 
greatly impedes our progress. 

February 4- — At daybreak this morning the flat shores of 
Italy can be seen, and at nine o'clock we enter the harbor 
of Brindisi, the ancient Brundisium, at the end of the old 
Via Appia. The modern town contains about twelve thou- 
sand inhabitants. At half past one I leave on the special 
express for Bologna, where I must change cars for Florence, 
to which city I am bound. For many miles the railroad 
runs parallel to the blue waters of the sea. Our train rushes 
past groves of olive-trees, and through picturesque towns 
musical with chiming bells, with ancient monasteries and old 
castles perched on the topmost crag of overhanging hills. 
At Foggia, where we stop for supper, several of our fellow- 
passengers leave us to branch off to Borne or Naples. Wo 
reach Ancona at midnight. 



3 14 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

February 5. — At five o'clock this morning our train moves 
into the long covered station at Bologna, where I alight for 
breakfast. At seven o'clock I am again on the road, with 
seventy-one miles still to accomplish. The weather is cold 
and disagreeable. Flurries of snow dash against the car- 
windows, and swift streams, running down the mountain-side, 
add sharpness to the air. The scenery around us is most 
beautiful, but long tunnels continually break the view. At 
last, at noon, the train leaves the hills and moves slowly out 
on to a plain. A fair city lies before us. It is bella Firenze 
with its Duomo, its Campanile, and its slowly flowing Arno. 



ITALY TO FRANCE. 315 



CHAPTER XXI. 

ITALY TO FRANCE. 

Florence. — Naples. — Rome. — Venice. — Milan. — Turin. — Arrival 

at Paris. 

February 12. — For a week I have wandered about this in- 
teresting city, ever finding fresh delights on all sides. Edward 
Everett says : " There is much in every way in the city of 
Florence to excite the curiosity, to kindle the imagination, 
and to gratify the taste." True indeed. The Campanile, the 
Duomo, and Santa Croce; the Pitti and Uffizi galleries, with 
their wonderful paintings and sculpture; the curious Palazzo 
Vecchio; the venerable Ponte Yecchio, and the other grace- 
ful bridges that span the Arno; the quaint houses and ever- 
varying street scenes, — all afford continual amusement and 
instruction. In the afternoons I walk slowly along by the 
Arno, and watch the gay crowds hurrying to the Cascine 
Promenade. There is a young noble, the representative of a 
long line of ancestors whose names are written in history, 
driving a splendid equipage at full speed. Behind him fol- 
lows sedately the heavy carriage of an old countess, with 
the family crest emblazoned on the panel. There goes an 
American guiding ten horses hitched tandem ; while on 



316 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the foot-path in front of me are senators, officers, and 
peasants. 

Later, when the sun is nearly out of sight, I walk up the 
hill to the old church of San Miniato. At my feet are the 
thickly clustered houses of Florence, with the Arno and its 
bridges ; in the distance are beautiful hills studded with mon- 
asteries and old fortresses; afar off, the snow-capped Apen- 
nines shine dazzlingly forth against the pure blue sky. On 
my way back I pass several Dominican monks hurrying along 
to their evening service at a neighboring chapel, whose bell 
sounds clearly through the evening air. Below in the city, 
I stop and wait for a few minutes with uncovered head, while 
a dead man is carried by on a bier, followed by a long pro- 
cession of Brothers of Misericordia with their long black cloaks 
and masks. A peasant-girl, closing the shutters of an humble 
shop near by, is chanting, half unconsciously, an evening hymn. 
The gas-lamps on the Lung' Arno form glittering lines of light. 
The rattling cabs are at rest ; while the drivers, standing near 
their vehicles on the street-corners, are giving the horses their 
feed, or are discussing with animated gestures the latest news 
from the Vatican, or the last action of the Italian senate. A 
mantle of repose has descended upon the city, and the massive 
walls of its ancient palaces are covered with silence and 
gloom. 

February 15. — To-day I received a letter from F ! His 

ill-fated steamer has at last reached Suez. In regard to his 



ITALY TO FRANCE. 317 

voyage lie says : " I have not yet told you the cause of our 
delay. On our arrival at Aden the captain found orders await- 
ing him to go up to Jeddah (in the Eed Sea) and take aboard 
some pilgrims returning from the feasts at Mecca. So up to 
Jeddah we went and stopped there a day, and took five hun- 
dred of these creatures on our deck. You may imagine that 
there was not very much room for the first-class passengers 
to walk about; and when a storm came on, and the forward 
part of the deck was almost constantly under water, the 
wretches had to be moved aft, and then the captain's bridge 
was the only thing left to us for two days. In addition to 
this, on account of having pilgrims on board, we were obliged 
to go into quarantine at a small town called Wedge (about 
two hundred miles from Suez), and there we stayed for four 

days We really ran a great risk; for although we had 

no cholera, we had small-pox on board We were allowed 

to leave on the morning of the fourth day." F is now 

making preparations to start up the Nile, and it is doubtful 
if I rejoin him. 

March 2. — I leave Florence at half past seven this morn- 
ing for Naples. 

March 3. — I reach Naples at daybreak, this morning. I 
am unable to obtain accommodation at the Tramontana Hotel 
(well situated on high ground), but I am received near by at 
the Nobile, a new hotel. Here I find two college friends, 
G. W., of Boston, and W. C. S., of Brooklyn. They arrived 



318 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

last evening, and we agree to explore the neighborhood to- 
gether. After breakfast we set out. We visit Baige, Pozzuoli, 
the villas of Cassar and Cicero, old Koman temples, Mount 
Solfatara, the Baths of Nero, Lake Avernus, and -the Cavern 
of the Sibyl. In an old ruined temple we witness the taran- 
tula dance. On our way back we stop at Virgil's tomb. 

March 4- — We set out this morning for Pompeii and Cas- 
tellamare. Leaving the railroad at Torre Annunziata we visit 
Pompeii, where we remain till afternoon. At four o'clock we 
continue our way, and reach Castellamare at sunset. The Qui- 
sisana Hotel, situated on a high hill overlooking the town, is 
a healthy and comfortable residence. 

March 5. — We drive, this morning, to Sorrento on the fine 
road which runs along the bluffs close to the sea. The view on 
all sides is superb. On our arrival at Sorrento we find it is use- 
less to embark for Capri, for a fog is rolling in from the sea. We 
explore the town and return to Castellamare in the afternoon. 

March 6. — We spend the day in the Musuem at Naples. 

March 8. — Yesterday my friends embarked for Athens and 
Constantinople.* They urged me to accompany them, but I 
have had enough of the sea for the present. I leave, to-day, 
for Rome. With Naples and her environs I am charmed. 
The inhabitants of Southern Italy are more interesting than 

* As they were returning to Italy, some weeks afterwards, their steamer 
collided with an English steamer and sank immediately. My friends, how- 
ever, were saved. 



ITALY TO FRANCE. 319 

their fellow-countrymen of the North. Here one sees more 
picturesque costumes and more beautiful faces. The laughter 
and animation of the people accords well with the blue skies 
and the bright sunlight. I leave Naples at half past two, and 
reach Eome at 8 p. m. 

March IS. — Modern fashion makes of Eome in the winter 
season a cosmopolitan dwelling-place, a gay city, whose im- 
mense hotels afford shelter for the multitudes who meet each 
other at balls and parties, and who visit, en passant, the rich 
antiquities around them. 

Stand in the centre of the Forum ; before you are two 
great establishments whose walls are but a stone's-throw from 
the historic ground. Along the neighboring street roll hand- 
some equipages with liveried footmen. Thus surrounded, it is 
hard to repeople this spot in imagination, — to recall the sena- 
tors hurrying over this very pavement to the senate-house-;; 
the consuls with their attendants; and the multitudes who- 
once stood in this very place listening to the wonderful elo- 
quence of Cicero. Never have I seen a city of the past suf- 
fering such continual transformations from the hand of the 
inexorable present. 

I have visited the chief objects of interest in the city. I 
continue my way northward to-morrow. Eeturning to my 
hotel I pass the church of the Capuchin monks. I enter, and, 
accompanied by one of the brothers, I descend to the vaults 
beneath, filled with a ghastly assemblage. Here are ranged 



320 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

the skeletons of brothers long dead. Wrapped in the robes 
of their order, with their cowls drawn over their grinning 
skulls, and their bony ringers clutching their rosaries, they 
stand as hideous sureties to the monks of death's never-failing 
memory. Around the walls are patterns formed of bones. 
" Shall you be placed here when you die ? " asks another 
visitor of our conductor. " Yes," he replies stolidly (and point- 
ing among the horrible group), "we shall all lie there." 

March H. — Leaving Eome this morning at ten o'clock, I 
reach Florence at seven. 

March 16. — I continue my journey and reach Naples at 
5 p. M. The cars leave me on the brink of a broad canal, in 
which many long, narrow, black gondolas are hurrying up and 
down, while a score lie close to the station waiting, like so 
many cabs, to convey passengers and their luggage to the 
different hotels. I enter one, and in a minute more I am in 
the middle of the Grand Canal, skimming along with the 
most delicious sensation of ease that can be imagined. Soon 
we turn off into another "street," and, moving almost on a 
level with the lower stories of the houses, draw up at last 
by the broad stone steps reaching from the hotel door into 
the water. It is astonishing how still the city is. There are 
of course no horses or carts, and the only sound is the mo- 
notonous " swish " of the gondoliers' paddles, accompanied 
from time to time by warning shouts as the sharp prows 
turn suddenly round the corner of an old palace. 



ITALY TO FRANCE. 321 

Soon after dinner I step from the hall of the hotel into a 
gondola, and am soon deposited at the foot of the steps lead- 
ing to the Teatro Fenice, and in a moment more I am on 
the floor of one of the largest theatres in Italy. The opera 
is "Hamlet"; the audience is numerous, well dressed, appre- 
ciative, and critical. 

March 17. — Having obtained an intelligent guide, I spend 
the day in visiting the well-known points of interest in the 
city. I wander over the Piazza S. Marco and the Doge's 
palace ; I pause in the great square, and see the pigeons 
coming in myriads to be fed at a window, and in the square 
itself; then I proceed to the mosaic manufactory, stopping 
on the way at the church of Santa Maria Gloriosa di Frari. 
From here we go to the palace of the present Prince Jova- 
nelli, after which I, visit the churches of Gli Scalzi (the bare- 
footed Carmelites) and Santa Maria dell a Salute. Finally I 
ascend to the chamber at the top of the Campanile, whence 
a grand view can be obtained of this wonderful water-city. 

There is something about Venice, with its old palaces, its 
canals and gondolas, its stillness, — almost intense, — that 
makes it seem truly like a city of the past ; modern fashion 
has not yet — to outward appearance — invaded it, and swept 
away, as from Pome, the mysterious atmosphere of antiquity. 

March 18. — I leave Venice at eight o'clock this morning, 
and reach Milan at 5 P. M. The new Hotel Confortable is a 
credit to its name. 



322 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

March 19. — To-day is Sunday, and I visit the great Cathe- 
dral, — immense, beautiful, impressive. As I stand in a dis- 
tant corner, under a magnificent stained-glass window, a 
procession of priests and choir-boys is marching slowly round 
near the high altar, chanting a solemn Lenten miserere. I 
cannot see the singers, but the clear voices (without organ 
accompaniment), the interior dimness of the Cathedral, relieved 
only by the soft light admitted by colored windows, and the 
various groups of peasants bowed low before the different 
shrines, — together produce in my mind a feeling of perfect 
calmnesss and awe. From the Cathedral I proceed to the old 
Dominican Priory (used by the Austrians, at one time, as a 
stable), where is Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper." 

Leaving Milan at 4 p. M., I arrive at Turin at half past 
eight. 

March W. — Continuing my journey, I leave Turin at 
9 A. M. The cars are crowded, and when we arrive at 
Modena, and change into others, the accommodation is quite 
insufficient, and we are packed in like bales of goods. 

March 21. — Passing through the Mont Cenis Tunnel, we 
reach Paris at eight o'clock this morning. 



PARIS, LONDON, AND BOSTON 323 



CHAPTER XXII. 

PARIS, LONDON, AND BOSTON. 

Notes on Paris and the French. — Arrival in London. — Embarkation 
at Liverpool. — The Cunard Steamship Russia.— New- York to 
Boston. 

April 21. — I have been living for a month in a French 
family near the Arc de Triomphe. I have improved my 
knowledge of the language, and have obtained a little insight 
into the life of these remarkable people. How different are 
their manners and customs from our own! Small matters of 
frequent occurrence in America are not comme il fant here ; 
yet these, I think, are more than overbalanced by abomina- 
tions which would not be permitted for a day in our coun- 
try. The excessive politeness of the multitude is only on 
the surface, and these courtly manners are often far more 
deceptive and dangerous than the disagreeable but honest 
brusqueness of a New England farmer. The moral sense of 
the people is strangely distorted. Sin is called by another 
name, and vice is concealed under such apparent refinement, 
that he who applies a harsh term to it is deemed a boor. 

The family in which I have been living, however, is com- 
posed of people who are highly cultured and thoroughly 



324 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

agreeable ; and yet, withal, their ways are not ours. I have 
heard and read much about the French boys. I witnessed 
the other day in this family an occurrence which testifies 
well to at least one little representative of the nation. 

Edmond is a boy of seven years of age. Several weeks 
ago I promised him that he should accompany me some 
• evening to the American circus. Since that time he has had 
it continually before his mind, and all day yesterday (the time 
finally agreed upon) he was in a state of the most intense 
excitement. Now, Edmond's father is a physician ; and when 
we sat down to dinner last evening, he told his wife in 
German (which Edmond does not understand) that he could 
not allow his son to expose himself to a cold fog, which had 
spread itself over the city. How to break this doleful news 
to his little boy he could not determine ; he knew that it 
would almost break the child's heart, for he had looked for- 
ward to the entertainment for weeks. For his own sake, 
however, something must be said to him at once. Instead 
of telling him bluntly (as some parents do) that he could 
not go, and assigning no reason therefor, he called the child 
from the dinner-table to the piazza outside. The rest of us 
remained in silence, awaiting the result of the conversation. 
The father was evidently explaining his reasons to his son. 
The firm low tones of the one contrasted with the tremulous 
but respectful inquiries of the other. At last the father 
finished, leaving the decision of the matter in his son's hands. 



PARIS, LONDON, AND BOSTON. 325 

Together they returned to the dining-room. The little boy's 
lip was trembling, but his teeth were firmly shut together. 
He was making a manly effort to appear calm. There was 
silence for a minute ; then the mother spoke : " Have you 
told Edmond why you do not wish him to go ? " " Yes," re- 
plied her husband ; " and what do you decide, my child ? 
Will you give this up and go some other time ? " For a 
moment he hesitated. Then brushing the tears from his eyes 
he answered in a low despairing tone, " Oui, mama" Upon 
this the old grandfather speaks : " Mon enfant" he says, " vous 
avcz Men fait, et je vous donnerai un franc pour votre petit 
portc-monnaie." " I will add one, too, my child," says the 
father; and I also join in the reward. The boy takes the 
money and puts it in his little purse. Even then, however, 
the remembrance of the lost circus causes his eyes to fill 
with tears ; but turning quickly to us, he says, " Merci grand- 
papa, merci papa, merci monsieur " (to me) ; then holding his 
purse up to his mother, he cries out, " Regardez, mama, re- 
gardcz I " His disappointment is forgotten, and his present 
pleasure compensates him for his pain. 

Paris is covered with the exquisite beauty of spring. The 
skies overhead are deep blue, the sunlight pours over every- 
thing, and the streets are thronged with gay promenaders 
and handsome equipages. All the world goes to the Bois in 
the afternoons, and the different theatres offer most varied 
entertainments for the evenings. The cafes are crowded, and 



326 DOTTINGS ROUND THE CIRCLE.. 

the Boulevards are lined with little tables where people sit 
and drink coffee, and discuss the news of the day. 

There is something about this Paris life which is weari- 
some. The whole place seems given up to pleasure, and the 
goddess of Gayety perpetually rules supreme. 

May 8. — I leave Paris at 8 P. M. for London via Calais 
and Dover. 

May 17. — I have been constantly occupied since my ar- 
rival in visiting the well-known objects of interest in the 
city. To-day I witnessed a debate in the House of Com- 
mons. Calling on Mr. Eussell Sturgis, I was introduced by 
him to Mr. Kirkman Hodgson, M. P., who kindly gave me 
his card, which admitted me to the lobby, where Mr. Hodgson 
met me, and conducted me to the gallery. I was astonished 
to see the members sitting with their hats on; but the 
speakers were attentively listened to, and the quiet and 
decorum that prevailed was a contrast to the confusion that 
one often finds in the House of Eepresentatives at Washington. 

May 19. — Leaving London at ten o'clock this morning, I 
reach Liverpool at 1 P. M. 

May W. — The Cunard steamship Russia is advertised to 
sail at noon, and passengers are requested to be on board 
the steam-tender with their baggage at ten o'clock. Leaving 
the Adelphi Hotel shortly before that hour, I find many 
passengers and much baggage already on the little steamer, 
waiting to be conveyed to the larger vessel, which is anchored 



PARIS, LONDON, AND BOSTON. 327 

off the city. At ten o'clock we leave the wharf, and are 
soon alongside of the great ocean steamer. Now the con- 
fusion begins. The passengers pour over the ship's side in 
haste, with bags and bundles in their hands, and rush pre- 
cipitately to the cabin to find their state-rooms. The sailors 
from the large steamer descend into the tender, and, grasping 
the passenger's trunks, carry them to the deck of the Russia, 
and toss them down in a heap, with a carelessness that 
would put to shame an American baggage-smasher. A very 
expensive gun which I carried on board in a case I found 
lying underneath a heavy trunk, which had been thrown 
upon it by some thoughtless seaman. At last we are under 
way, and a comparative amount of order is established. 

May 21. — We reach Queenstown at nine o'clock this 
morning, and remain off the town till 1 P. M. Having re- 
ceived the late mails and a few passengers, we continue our 
voyage. 

May %£. — For four days I have watched with delight the 
wonderful discipline which has been impressed upon the 
navigators of this ship. For four days I have endured with 
ever-increasing disgust the disorder that reigns in the dining- 
cabin at meal-times. On deck the sailors perform their 
duties with a quiet precision which assures the traveller that 
the company fully appreciate the responsibility of the many 
human beings committed to their care. Captain Cook him- 
self is perpetually on the watch, and nothing is left undone* 



328 DOTTING S ROUND THE CIRCLE. 

that human efforts can accomplish. The interior management 
of the ship is, as I have said, far from satisfactory. "We have 
by no means our full complement of passengers, and yet at 
table it is difficult to get attention. Besides this, the food — 
of good quality itself — is often carelessly prepared and un- 
inviting. The waiters hurry hither and thither noisily, drop 
plates and dishes with loud clatter, and do not seem to work 
with any system or under any directing eye. The Chinese 
waiters on the Pacific Mail Steamers, governed by an American 
head-steward, put these English assistants to shame. The 
dinners, instead of being served slowly in courses, are put for 
the most part upon the table in a disorderly heap, and a 
mere pretence is made of pausing between the fish, meat, and 
dessert. In short, the company has obtained such a just 
reputation for excellent seamanship, that they care very little 
about the comfort of passengers. Any complaints made in 
regard to the minor details of the ship are answered with the 
remark that safety is placed before ease. " In long years of 
navigation on the dangerous Atlantic," they say, " we have 
never lost a passenger. We cannot allow considerations of 
comfort to interfere with the proper care of life." 

It seems to me that these two departments are by no 
means inconsistent with each other. In all my travels round 
the world, over many oceans and seas, I have never seen 
steamers more carefully navigated than the boats of the 
Cunard Company; I have only seen their system equalled in 



PARIS, LONDON, AND BOSTON. 329 

one case, — the Pera of the Peninsula and Oriental Company, 
commanded by Captain Methven. But, on the other hand, I 
have only once seen their equal in bad table management, — 
on the boats of the Netherlands India Company, running from 
Singapore to Java, There is no reason why the excellent 
care of the deck should be the only recommendation of the 
Cunarders. If the comfort of the passengers was more re- 
garded, these steamers would be the patterns of the world. 
As it is, they are far from deserving the title. 

May 30. — We are in sight of land ! Early this morning 
America was seen by the lookout. At one o'clock we pass 
Sandy Hook. Continuing our way we see beautiful green 
fields, and pleasant-looking houses perched on the neighbor- 
ing hills. We see our country's flag floating over buildings 
in the distant city, and flying from the countless crafts which 
pass up and down by our side. At 5 P. M. we reach the 
dock, and, soon after, I am once more in my native land. 

June 5. — Having visited the Exposition at Philadelphia, I 
leave New York this morning at ten o'clock for Boston. The 
journey is quickly accomplished. At 5.40 the train moves 
slowly into the station, and comes to a stand-still. I have 
travelled around the world, and, thank God, have reached my 
home in safety. 

THE END. 



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